looks like i may end up rebuilding this 2.8 here soon , i have a knock in the top end so it may be a valve or a rod...where can i get a rebuild kit for this engine? if im gonna tear apart the top end im gonna rip apart the entire engine so i can fix everything, so i need a rebuild kit, or atleast a rod and valve kit..

 

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2606645...=263602_304662

Quick 30 second search on Google. If you search deep you'll prolly find more.

 

im on google now lol

 

if it was me, i'd be really tempted to look at this

http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/gm2831stkr.html

 

I saw that when I was going to rebuild my old V6. But then I found a modded V6 for $250 so I jumped on it. It probably would be cheaper to just buy a new V6 and make the best out of the 2.

 

hmm no price though...

 

I'm assuming this one would work on your 86... can't imagine why it wouldn't. It's an incredible price for brand new crate long block... not used, not rebuilt, brand spanking NEW

http://paceperformance.com/i-5135118...tic-trans.html

 

ill go with a kit LOL, iv im gonna put that much money into the engine im getting a 383 with NOS and a turbo!! lol

 

This. I wouldn't spend 1k on a brand new V6. Maybe 1k on parts for a hybrid turbo set up, but not for a stock 2.8.

 

First, there is no such animal as a rod and valve kit... It's either a top-end kit or a lower end kit or a full rebuild kit. Second, pull the valve covers and check the valve adjustment... It's entirely possible you have a loose valve. Also check your oil pressure using an actual oil pressure gauge that screws into one of the ports on the oil filter adaptor. Low oil pressure will make lots of noise in the top end.

Too bad you didn't save the 3.1 out of the other car... You could have had it built up and ready to go into this one when the time was right.

 

yeah thats what im thinking, although i might also be one of those injectors...how much are valve cover gaskets?

 

You don't need just valve cover gaskets since pulling the covers requires removing the intake down to the manifold. You'll need an MS-93020 gasket kit and possibly fuel injector o-rings ($40 total). And yes, you can pull the intake without disconnecting the cold start injector from the fuel rail (just sneak the lower plenum out from under it, yes the tube will bend enough).

 

iv got the gasket kit already and o rings here..

 

Well, start tearing it down and loosen up all 12 valves (with a 15mm deep socket on a breaker bar, not a ratchet) with the #1 cylinder in firing position. Then, tighten each CLOSED valve (as in rockers and lifters fully closed and the springs not being compressed) until the pushrod has no vertical play (clean each pushrod if you have to). Then tighten it another 3/4 turn (not one and a half as according to Haynes and them as you'll leave the valve wide open and the engine won't run). Once done with those 6 valves, turn the crank over one turn so that #4 is in firing position and do the other 6.

 

cork or rubber gaskets?

 

Whichever you prefer. I think the last time I actually used RTV because I got so sick of the cork ones getting oil soaked and then leaking later. Just have to get a can of brake cleaner and clean the valve covers (NOT the heads) and spray more on a paper towel or something and wipe the surface of the head and intake before you do that if you're going to. Oh, and let it sit for a couple of hours (eat dinner or something while you wait) so that the RTV can skin over.

 

I used rubber gaskets under polished fiero valve covers- so far, so goood....

 

well im looking at some chrome eldabrok( spelling i know) covers but im almost outta money after i get my replacement windsheild so im gonna grab some gaskets and pull them...