Plese read what has been replaced and tested. My Car is a 92 Camaro with a 3.1L with over 415,000 miles
It sudenly started running rich when I tried to pull a way from a stop sign and died. I found a vac line running from the Evap purge solonoid to the FPR discconected. I connected it but did not help. I also ran through the fuel presure flow chart in the factory service manual and every thing seem fine. All though I do have a question about the fuel presure. I left the gauge connected when I started it and tried to bring the RPMs up to about 2000 RPMS and it started stumble at about 1500 RPM and died. When I looked at the gauge it read all most 70 PSI. That seems way to high to me, but I have no idea if that is normal.
I just can't seem to figure out what the hell the problem is and it is driving me crazy. Any help would be a major help!!!
At one point while my wife was helping to keep it running she was holding the RPMS just above 1000 and there was so much unburnt fuel that the ground behind the car was wet for about 2 or 3 feet. So you get an idea of just how rich it is running. She said that at one point the tach went to zero for a moment then back up, but the engine did not skip a beat while this happened. It hasn't happened again so I don't if that is a problem.
What has been replaced.
1. Wires, plugs, cap, and rotor as they were old.
2. Coil was replaced as a shot in the dark.
3. EGR valve as it was cracked blowing hot gases slowly melting the wires.
4. Evap solonoid as it was constantly open even with power applied causing a major vac leak.
5. Map sensor as it had a crack in the body and I figured it may be part of the problem, but wasn't.
Parts that tested good.
1. spark mod. tested at Auto Zone.
2. Checked and corrected all vac leaks.
3. Fuel pump
4. FPR, But see concerns in above post.
5. Presure tested radiator to make sure head gasket was not blown.
6. No ECM codes except for a Code 34 (low Vac) this is normal when the engine stumbles a dies.
7. Swapped in a known good set of injectors that I had on hand and it did not improve any thing.
Thanks!
Will
It sudenly started running rich when I tried to pull a way from a stop sign and died. I found a vac line running from the Evap purge solonoid to the FPR discconected. I connected it but did not help. I also ran through the fuel presure flow chart in the factory service manual and every thing seem fine. All though I do have a question about the fuel presure. I left the gauge connected when I started it and tried to bring the RPMs up to about 2000 RPMS and it started stumble at about 1500 RPM and died. When I looked at the gauge it read all most 70 PSI. That seems way to high to me, but I have no idea if that is normal.
I just can't seem to figure out what the hell the problem is and it is driving me crazy. Any help would be a major help!!!
At one point while my wife was helping to keep it running she was holding the RPMS just above 1000 and there was so much unburnt fuel that the ground behind the car was wet for about 2 or 3 feet. So you get an idea of just how rich it is running. She said that at one point the tach went to zero for a moment then back up, but the engine did not skip a beat while this happened. It hasn't happened again so I don't if that is a problem.
What has been replaced.
1. Wires, plugs, cap, and rotor as they were old.
2. Coil was replaced as a shot in the dark.
3. EGR valve as it was cracked blowing hot gases slowly melting the wires.
4. Evap solonoid as it was constantly open even with power applied causing a major vac leak.
5. Map sensor as it had a crack in the body and I figured it may be part of the problem, but wasn't.
Parts that tested good.
1. spark mod. tested at Auto Zone.
2. Checked and corrected all vac leaks.
3. Fuel pump
4. FPR, But see concerns in above post.
5. Presure tested radiator to make sure head gasket was not blown.
6. No ECM codes except for a Code 34 (low Vac) this is normal when the engine stumbles a dies.
7. Swapped in a known good set of injectors that I had on hand and it did not improve any thing.
Thanks!
Will
Supreme Member
There's an obstruction in the fuel return lines. Remove the upper plenum, release the fuel pressure, and remove the fuel pressure regulator (requires T10 security torx bit). If you have an air compressor and a blow gun, put a rubber tip on the blow gun and put it into the hole in the middle of the FPR. Using about the usual 90 PSI air, blow air through the lines until you can hear bubbles in the gas tank. You may need to do it a couple of times. Had that happen on mine but the pressure didn't get above 60 PSI... Normal fuel pressure, GM spec, is between 37 and 47 PSI running.
Also, if the tach is jumping, that's an indicator of the ignition module on the way out. I don't trust AutoZone for much of anything anymore and only go there when it's absolutely necessary (Advance doesn't have what I need).
Also, if the tach is jumping, that's an indicator of the ignition module on the way out. I don't trust AutoZone for much of anything anymore and only go there when it's absolutely necessary (Advance doesn't have what I need).
Cool thanks for the help!!!!!!
I wanted to let yopu know that I blew out the return line starting up at the FPR, and I ended up replacing the FPR as well. The rubber part was cracked enough that I didn't trust to last much longer. I could see the fabric under the ruber in some of the cracks. Since it is the original part and it has over 400,000 original miles on it I figured it has done more then it's fair share work and can rest in the bottom of the trash can now. I know it's the original since I am the original owner.
It was idling fine while my wife was picking up the tools for so I could take it for a test run when the car decided to be as viscious as can. Right when she was getting ready to shut the hood the SES light came on. Once the hood was shut it ran for a few secounds longer and just up and shut off like I had turned the key. I am sure it is just a lose connection or some thing, but it's going to have to wait for Sunday. I have had some many back problems that I now severe nerve injury and can't do much work my self. My wife does most of the work that requires bending over. So basicly I just break bolts lose for her and let her know what to do, and trouble shoot. So it will have to wait.
But thank you again!!! I was really at the end of my rope I just couldn't figure this one. All of the test would come ok, or be some what marginal. Not mention all of the other parts that had problems I didn't know about.
-Will
I wanted to let yopu know that I blew out the return line starting up at the FPR, and I ended up replacing the FPR as well. The rubber part was cracked enough that I didn't trust to last much longer. I could see the fabric under the ruber in some of the cracks. Since it is the original part and it has over 400,000 original miles on it I figured it has done more then it's fair share work and can rest in the bottom of the trash can now. I know it's the original since I am the original owner.
It was idling fine while my wife was picking up the tools for so I could take it for a test run when the car decided to be as viscious as can. Right when she was getting ready to shut the hood the SES light came on. Once the hood was shut it ran for a few secounds longer and just up and shut off like I had turned the key. I am sure it is just a lose connection or some thing, but it's going to have to wait for Sunday. I have had some many back problems that I now severe nerve injury and can't do much work my self. My wife does most of the work that requires bending over. So basicly I just break bolts lose for her and let her know what to do, and trouble shoot. So it will have to wait.
But thank you again!!! I was really at the end of my rope I just couldn't figure this one. All of the test would come ok, or be some what marginal. Not mention all of the other parts that had problems I didn't know about.
-Will