Hopefully the swap will be finished up on Sunday! I have a question regarding "inital" engine timing... and yeah, I know the procedure, I just want to cheat a bit!

I'll put the engine at TDC, 0 deg advanced, and I'll line up the rotor with the #1 plug terminal on the cap. Now, I know from experience the motor won't start at 0 degrees. How far "early" should the rotor be before the #1 plug terminal on the cap? 1/2 inch? 1 inch? 2 inches? I don't want to pull off my distributor cap to check it out!

Also, the rotor should be counter-clock-wise early, right?

Thanks!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Tom,
Here's how I did mine.
I got it to TDC & exactly at zero on the balancer and the timing mark.
Dropped in the distributor. Pulled the cap off, it was at #1.
I then attempted to start. I did not start, as I was off a tooth.
Pulled off cap to discover that result.
I pulled out distributor, twisted rotor to get it back one tooth on the dist. gear, layed down cap, saw it was closer to the #1 plug on the dist. cap, tightend down cap, it fired up on first engine revolution. I then twisted the dist. for the smoothest idle, then backed it a slight bit. Took car for a drive.
I hope I gave you the answer you need.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

Ah, yeah, see, you started the car with close to 0 advance. Mine didn't start like that (and the tooth & gear were correct; after I started it, I checked it a few times). I was trying to get his engine to start up with 5 advance, and then I'd use my timing light for the rest. Know what I mean? I'm trying to minimize cranking time for this engine so it doesn't starve itself for oil! Anyway I figured I'd check here before I left the house- I'm off to finish a swap! (Hopefully it won't rain on me... we have a tarp, but I hate working under one!)


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Tom, I NEVER had previous success as I did with this swap.
I once had to tow a car to a garage to have them put the distributor in to get it to run.
With these computers, etc, they do SO MUCH adjustment, I AM STUNNED!!
Make sure you are at TDC. IF you are, it'll blow your finger off the plug hole. My combo has 175-200 compression at cylinders. Then I looked at mark on balancer. I had it at ZERO.
I even PUT IT AT ZERO (by a wrench, crank socket)
Then I dropped in distributor. Dropped on cap, looked to see that it was close to the #1 plug on cap. I "twisted" cap slightly, to where I recall it looked like it was, for proper timing. I hit the starter, it started right up. I then adjusted by ear. I have never used, touched this engine with a timing light, yet.
That's why I recommend keep the distributor loose, to adjust while driving up & down hills (listening for ping). I then back it, from best adjustment, slightly. To keep adhead of the "built in" ignition advancing curve of the computer system.
For fun, before I take it to smog test, I MAY put it on the timing light. Lately, it has been a champ, never missing a beat. Train keep a-running, all night long.
Two nights ago, I did a one leg burnout (I tried to paint the "T" at my stop sign limit line-next is the "P"). My car started going side ways, peeling out! Only my (135K original milage no engine rebuild L-48/automatic 200HP) 1974 Corvette had ever done that before! I am still stunned by the power this engine delivers. This thing runs like "Night Train Mad Dog 20 20".
If car does not start right away, stop, check alot of details. Check other areas for problems, too.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA