I removed all the wires, tubes, compressor, and all that crap. All the left over wires are in my engine bay disconnected. Is the cooling fan always on because the system thinks the A/C is on? I was thinking that I need to patch something there (maybe that 2 pin connector?) so that the system goes back to normal. Is there something I missed??? HELP ME PLEASE!

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85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro, 2000 3.8 5-speed Camaro, ~68 Chevelle 350, 92 CRX Si.

[This message has been edited by AntiVTEC (edited September 18, 2001).]

Well, the fan is supposed to come on when the compressor is on, so you said you pulled all the wiring, which is why. So yea, check your wiring everywhere.

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1989 Firebird. Modded.
700r4-->t5 w/ram clutch
Cold air, 1.6 rockers, 21lb injectors, 3" y-pipe, random tech cat, 3" ipipe, flowmaster 80 series 3" in 3" out hand made stainless tips, Lakewood LCA's, Msd 6a, Msd coil, Wonder Bar, 180* stat,

I'd rather run last in a full out race, than to NOT have run at all"
See my car Here!
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

Well, I only pulled the wires associated with the A/C stuff. Do one of the plugs on the A/C lines tell the computer when the A/C is on and when it isn't? If so, what can I do to that plug to make the fan function properly, just like if the A/C is just off.

well.... why did you yank it?. To gain power? You did'nt, and you may have lost like 30-40 pounds. so you just ripped the best anti heat wave device you have for no real gain. If it were me I would not have ripped it, you don't gain anything from it.

I've disconnected the two plugs going to my a/c compressor ('91 RS) and the fan still works normally . . . ?

I pulled the A/C out because first, it doesn't work. Secondly, I don't need it anyway where I live. Thirdly, why carry weight around that doesn't do any good. And finally, now I have room for a supercharger in the future. I already know that there is no power gain and that the weight loss is negligable. But I'm a neat freak and also the radiator now gets a clear shot of air (and bugs and leaves and all that too).

Anyway, what exactly on the A/C system tells the fan to come on?

EDIT: Ok, there are 3 A/C related sensors and the Low pressure/fan switch is the one that is near the accumulator and taps into one of the metal lines. I guess you could try jumping the 2 terminals if you still have the switch and see if the fan shuts off.


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-Dan
-1990 3.1L RS
-Mods? no
-Slow? yes
-Currently collecting parts for T5 swap


[This message has been edited by CaliCamaroRS (edited September 18, 2001).]

OR you can always do like I did.
I replaced the ECM and that shut off my fan.
FYI, I didn't remove the AC to make the fan stay on constant.
Something inside the ECM fried, causing the constant fan on option.
But, now it operates perfect!


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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

if you really want to save weight, remove the accumulator, replace heater core, basically, remove the whole set up and discover a lot more room on the pass side engine compartment.

Ah yes; the poor man's fan switch, you found it!

The sensor that controls the fan with the a/c system is (or in your case, was) located on the a/c hard line that rested on the passenger side main frame rail. It's a "high pressure" switch. When the switch goes "open" (or the connector's unhooked), the computer says "Oh sh$#, the a/c pressure's way too high, the thing's gonna explode" and kicks the fan on.

All you need to do is jump the two wires on the connector to each other. Or, you can run a switch inside the car, and you've got a remote fan switch. You don't have to worry about the sensor from the accumulator can (low pressure, kicked compressor in) or the sensor to the a/c compressor itself. You might want to tape those other two up, though, so moisture doesn't corrode them.

(I pulled my a/c system too... I never used it, so it wasn't a loss. I love the heat!)

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

Excellent TomP!

Did it work?

------------------
-Dan
-1990 3.1L RS
-Mods? no
-Slow? yes
-Currently collecting parts for T5 swap

Hey Antivtec,
What is exactly wrong with your AC? I might be willing to buy all of the parts off of you. Email me at jneal84@home.com and we'll talk about it. Thanks

Works perfect now. I just put a wire between the prongs of the plug that goes into the upper hardline coming out of the A/C core. Thanks all!

------------------
85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro, 2000 3.8 5-speed Camaro, ~68 Chevelle 350, 92 CRX Si.