hoping someone has a good tip on how to first just find the dizzy hold down bolt but 2nd how to tighten it.

Mine seems to be lose for some reason, can't see shiet so dunno how Id even reach what is hidden????

 

You can get to it from the passenger side. I use a long extension, a swivel joint and a 15mm short socket. I lower the extension without the ratchet attached down going over the side of the ac/heater box and watch it from the top till the socket is on the bolt then just slide the ratchet on and tighten away. It might help if you unplug the wires going to the ICM so you can see where the bolt is at a little better. I've messed with the timing so many times I can hook up the light, loosen the dizzy, get it where it needs to be and tighten it all back in less than 10 minutes

 

I had no luck with my sockets, swivels and extensions, so I started by just using a 15mm open end wrench, then running a screwdriver through the box end to make a T-handle. This worked fine for testing different timing settings.
But the next level is to take the bolt and some vise grips, and a bench grinder, to turn that 15mm head into a 9/16" head, so that the typical SBC distributor wrench will fit.

 

Hmmm its a 15? I was abel to get a 5/8 swivel on there and tighten it a good turn+ till I could not move the dizzy by hand. Hope it stays, don't have any mertic swivels.

But was so obvious, revs good in one spot, blows up the intake tube the other way as it only would move a tiny bit.

Had to change the ICM, twice now on really hot days I lost good spark where I had to baby it to get home or gas exploded in exhaust blowing it apart and stall but always restarted, just had to go slow.

pretty safe bet that was it. [got a spare coil again to carry just incase]


Will be nice to have two reliable cars again.

 

Your right it was 5/8 sorry about that.

 

It is NOT 5/8". 5/8" is about 15.8 mm. This is a metric engine, and it takes a 15 mm socket. Otherwise there's a good probability of rounding off the bolt head, especially if your 5/8" socket is 12 point.

 

I realize that crud can and does accumulate on the bolt, and in the sockets. Sometimes it becomes difficult to get the correct size socket on a bolt. But if it takes a 5/8" to get it loose, then remove it and soak it in solvent and / or wire brush it.

 

Mine is a little on the cruddy side because when my car had the 2.8 it had an oil leak that would get on the bolt and dirt collected on it. I lost my 15mm socket so I've been using a 5/8...guess I should get me a new socket considering there's a lot of 15mm bolts on this engine.

 

use 1/4 inch drive ratchet extension and 15mm swivel socket

or cut the box end off a 15mm wrench and weld the handle back on on a steep angle

 

Now the annoying problem of not being able to get both dizzy cap screws in.

had it on and off a dozen times, only just start one so the threads just catch and yet the other side will not start. Tried it both ways.

If I had more access id yank the intake side screw and use a self taper and be done with it. right now firwall side screw is only tight.

no reason what so ever for it to do that.

we all know the cap only goes on 1 way.

 

Gumby,If ya take the hood off and come from above on the drivers side to get to the holddown bolt. I found the 1/4" ratchet with no extension no reducers either.has to be a 1/4" drive shallow. Tighten it good or the heat and vibration will loosen it.The cap screws I get standing on a concreat block passanger side with a screwdriver type socket instead of philips. 7/32 is the size on mine. OH yes I finaly got my fuel pump in and working.Now I gota get the fire to the hole! Good Luck

 

So far so good, two days of floggin it for a test. 1 tight screw is plenty I guess.

Its a 5.5mm socket for me to get on the cap, yea using a philips is near useless.

Spent $100 and ordered a brake booster, that last piece of the puzzle I guess.

be nice to not only have a reliable car but one that stops easy too