These are one thing I have wanted to do to the RS for over a year, ever since I started trying to make it quicker. Its been almost a year since I did any mod to the car (the Z has gotten the majority of the attention/cash since March), and now that the Z will be off the road and hibernating in a few weeks, I wanted to come up with some projects for the RS....

Anyone have battery draining problems with these?? Last time I looked they were good for about 10hp...this true?? Can you feel the difference?

------------------
Jason E

'89 Camaro RS
-Medium Grey Metallic
-2.8, A4, T-tops, 94k miles
-Hypertech chip, Accel wires/coil/K&Ns
-Alpine 60x4 and Bostons

'97 Z28
-30th Anniversary package (white with orange stripes)
-LT1, M6, t-tops, 45k miles
-Eclipse CD and 10" Aluminum sub in JL Audio Stealth box, Boston RM speakers, Xtant 403a amp

Speed Kills...Wanna live forever? Drive a Ford.
Long Live #3...

 

Keep the stock alternator pully on and jsut do the crank save allot of problems in the long run. You get allot better Gas milage i went up at least 70 miles per tank if not more and i felt a deacent power increase i think they paied for them selfs the first 4 months i had them

 

i have had mine for about a year and a half now and haven't had any problems. i got mine from ASP and am running both the crank and alternator pulleys. my voltage will flucuate a little bit from idle to when i give it the gas but no charging problems at all. the headlights and interior lights will dim and brighten slightly but thats about it. and you do notice a difference with and w/o them. easy, cheap, and they do pay for themselve in gas milage....never thought of it that way....go for it

------------------
1990 Firebird 3.1
------------------
- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I. (KNN-RE-0810)
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona, 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1999ish Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee, 68ish Mustang (died completely when the light went green )

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd )

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

 

http://www.chevytalk.com/tech/

It wont give me a direct link but go there and click engine then cool ways to cool your ride. This guy talks about "underdrive pulleys" and a whole lot of other stuff.
Also as intedended, its a very interesting artical about cooling systems.
SSC

------------------
85 Camaro, 355/400 "drag car" in moth ***** 13.1@ 101mph on its last season run.
Plans: Possibly add N20 for next season.
82 Firebird, 305/350 currently moth balled.
Current plans: Rebuild 305 with flat tops instead of the dished "cups" for pistons or slightly built 327 with the 58cc heads from the LG4, Upgrade the 2:73 to 3:73 or 3:42 and replace the turbo 350 with 700r4.


"Web site under construction"

G0D Bless.

 

The artical that SSC mentioned and provided a link to it's site is worth taking a look at.

 

I had them on my 2.8, and they rocked. Yes, the voltage would bog down at idle, and you should keep a very healthy electrical system if you don't want them to become a problem, but they are good and noticeable.

-Reno

 

Thanks to those who have replied so far...

The only real concern I have is that even though the alternator is fairly new (replaced approx 15k miles ago), this car has ALWAYS had somewhat dimming interior lights at idle, not as noticeable when cold as when warmed up. Also, if I have the defroster and defogger on in traffic at idle it REALLY bogs down somewhat...as low as approx 10 volts.

Judging by this, am I only going to make things much worse? My theory is that if I do pulleys, I'm gonna want to do the crank and the alternator to get max benefit. Is there any change at all by merely doing the crank??

 

If you're a preformance guy and are up to deal with any mishaps that might happen, then go with both! That's what I'd do.
Something you could do to combat the voltage drop is raise your idle. My car idles roun 900-1000 but I have a manual. I think its like 600-800 before you get a voltage drop from an alternator. Not so sure how high you could go with an auto without getting a real bad kick when you drop it in gear.

------------------
85 2.8L Sport Coupe 5-speed.
Mods: Hpertech chip and powerstat, MSD 6A-L, Crane fireball coil, Accel Cap and Rotor, Dynomax hi-flow cat and catback system with a dynomax magnum race bullet muffler on the i-pipe, K&N filterchargers, Gutted Air Boxes, 8mm Wires, Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko springs/shocks setup, Global west sub frames, Suspension techniqs front and rear sway bars, and good ole 88 IROC wheels with Kumo Ecstas on em!
"It's not the ricers, it's those damn V8's!"

Wins: 2000 V6 Accord, 69 302 Mustang, 2000 Auto VR6 Jetta, 89 Toyota MR2, 90 Civic Si, 76 350 Camaro, 2000 3.8 5-speed Camaro, ~68 Chevelle 350, 92 CRX Si.

 

If you want the performance do both. Just realize if you're trying to run every damn light and accessory in the car at the same time you may need to watch your gauges and rev the engine a little at idle. Once moving, however, the car will be fine...

 

Well if concerned about the idle voltage do as I did and get a 160 amp alt!. This thing supports A/C, High beams, all electrical gadgets on and the sterio(600 watt) blaring and it was still at 14.6V!! at IDLE!

 

So how much are those and where can I get them?

 

well I am gonna take it you were referring to me. 189 Mr alternator. On the web, lost the number. took 10? days to get. 15 minutes to install. fit like a charm. and works like a dream.

 

I had both the Alt and Crank Pully on I took the Alt one off for obvious reasons. When i took it off i felt no loss in power at all.

 

Argh...still don't know what to do. I just spent $115 on a lifetime warranty alternator a little more than a year ago, and really didn't wanna spend almost $200 for a high-output one.

Others that are not using the H.O. alternator...any problems getting stuck??

 

nope, i have been running them for a year and a half now on a new OEM alternator and die hard gold battery without a problem at all!!

------------------
1990 Firebird 3.1
------------------
- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I. (KNN-RE-0810)
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona, 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1999ish Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee, 68ish Mustang (died completely when the light went green )

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd )

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

 

I should look into them then...I know when I looked almost 2 years ago, the Hypertech set was only $77 at Auto Zone. Thanks for the advice.

 

just a note on under drive on the alt. it puts out the same ammount of juice no matter how fast or slow it spins, but the faster it spins the less load it uses, so spining slower just puts more load on it and your lights dim and will shorten its life.

myself im just about ready too add a second alt. on mine so i got juice for my stero system.

good bye ac that dont work, hello tunes.


that a good power advantage, remove you ac belts when not needed or if it dont work.



------------------
http://PCperformance-usa.com/86bird/86bird.html

 

Get it from PAW I paied 50 Dollars for the pully set. But the *******s ****ed up on the belt and they put a different sticker on to make it look like the right one i got the pullys on and ran into a big problem the belt dosent fit. And it sucked cuz i had no way to get to the part store.

 

you could have driven if it wasn't too far. my serpentine belt ripped right off my car the other night when the bearings froze in my alternator, and I drove 3 miles to get home.
Then I had to crap out $60 for an alt and $25 for a serp. and there is a B-B sized hole in the radiator now too. Try driving w/out power steering, A/C-Heat, the alternator, the water pump, and ? (that should be it) I've never seen a car heat up so quick.

try it, it's real fun!

 

The store is 10 miles away and i didnt wana chance it. I have drivin myc ar at night with out a belt it had allot more power and the sound of the car sounded soo different the engine sounded quiter and the exhaust was way loud.

 

Sorry but the RPM's of the alt are directly related to the power the alt can produce. The slower the rotation the less power PERIOD. Thats why ALL alt's except HO ones want a heathy 3-1 turn ratio in relation to the crank. If you slow down the crank it will need more then a 3-1 ratio, or the power levels at idle and the lower RPM's cannot and will not be supported properly.

 

well I already replied to the alt output... but why in gods name do you need a second alt unless you are pushing over 4000 watts???? I doubt you are that high. My 160 without any pullies is happy powering my system and all my accesories A/C, High beams ect ect AT IDLE!. I have 14.9 and 159.890 amps AT IDLE WITH LOAD. I would suggest you get a high output alt and lose the alt under pully.