Ok guys, I just read in another post awhile back that someone removed the Air Filter Cannister on the passenger side of the car and just bolted the assemble back in place making a kind of open air system.

I just did it and saw that after the 12 oz can is remomved a small hole was at the bottom which I taped off. Does anyone see any other problems with this setup?

 

Ok, I guess I will bump this to the top...

Maybe someone will see it...

 

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f.gif.orig.gif is that what yours looked like?

[This message has been edited by c-5invalid (edited September 29, 2001).]

 

Yup, thats the one...

 

i took off that plastic piece, you would have to do something with the air sensor thing if you took off the box

 

basically what you guys are talking about is fabricating some sort of home made cold air induction unit. basically the goal is to get the coldest free flowing air you can into your engine....just about everyone here has modified their airboxes. some have designed ram air systems, and others like me just stuck with and under-the-hood cold air unit. for me i wanted to avoid the water issue.

here are the pics of my HCAI. its made out of 3" pvc and flexpipe and capped off with a huge k&n conical. you can hear the air being sucked in, and very free flowing. ideally i would love to find somewhere to mount that canister and move the filter into the fender and then build a small wall around it to block engine heat.






drilled a hole using an 11/16" paddle bit (who knew geometry would help someday)

------------------
1990 Firebird 3.1
------------------
- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I. (KNN-RE-0810)
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona, 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1999ish Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee, 68ish Mustang (died completely when the light went green )

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd )

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

 

I like that mod!

You think spraypainting the PVC would make the pipeing look better?

I have problems thinking about what my car would look like under the hood if I put a 3" pipe that went under my car... I just don't think I want to even try. But that looks good.

Thanks

Oops, forgot something... what kind of elbow is that before the PVC?

[This message has been edited by I_Live_4_my_RS!!! (edited September 30, 2001).]

 

if you want to spend the money you can use 3" exhaust pipe. that would look even better, but its more expensive than the 3.00 you'll spend on the pvc. that black elbow is something called flexpipe. you will find it in the same aisle as the pvc, except its made out of rubber. you will need to cut off the collar in order to squeeze it into that ribbed piece connected to the TB (i just used a hack saw). the PVC is too wide to fit inside. also, i used white pvc to deflect heat and keep the air as cool as possible....just and idea so i ran with it. this will cost you 10.00 for the piping and 45-50 for the filter...

 

You could do this but it would cost you alot more... https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/ramair.shtml It have pulled 9hp off the dyno. Just an idea.

 

SAEspinz80 what kind of gains did you notice? Much, none, some?

 

Do you have a part number on that Cone?

I am going to go ahead and buy the PVC and wait untill this weekend to buy the H&K.

Like monkie asked, did you notice any changes?

Well, I may be getting a Crane 2030 cam and 1.52 roller rockers. That should help me out a bit.

 

its been sooo long since i did it....and i never dynoed my car but yea i noticed a change. there was definately more pull on highway at higher rpms...and overall the car seemed to pull harder and be more responsive from bottom to top. you can hear it working when your done...and it'll drop you exhaust note a bit too. the summit part number is in my sig for the filter

------------------
1990 Firebird 3.1
------------------
- Auto Trans, TA Body Kit
- Home Made C.A.I. (KNN-RE-0810)
- ASP Underdrive Pulleys
- MSD 8.5mm Superconducter Wires (custom-cut)
- MSD GM Blaster Coil (8226)
- AC Delco Cap & Rotor
- Bosh Platinum +4 plugs
- Mobil 1 Synthetic Fluids
- 2.5" Hooker Aero-Chamber Cat-back (27121)
- 2.5" Hooker Elite Stainless Extension Tips (31503)
- GTS Blackouts (stickers removed - #GT034)
- TB Bypass

KILLS = Dodge Daytona, 2000 Toyota 4 Runner 4WD,
1999ish Explorer XLT, "older" Jeep Cherokee, 68ish Mustang (died completely when the light went green )

LOSSES = 300zx (took me in 2nd )

"The racing dice added 5hp...I SWEAR!"

 

Thanks man!

I am going to start today. Going to go to Lowe's and get the PVC and start it up. Can't wait to get this thing in! (I am going to spray it black just for looks... Haven't done the TB bypass anyway so air is going to be warmed a bit.)

 

that looks awesome... i took off that black piece from my box... i also noticed a little more response/pulling power, and the exhaust is soo damn sweeter... it has that guzzling sound to it now... instead of a humm....

 

i was messing with my car today and i put my hand near the circle opening(on the air box)
and i reached with my other hand to pull the throttle... i gave it some quick pulls and my hand was almost sucked completely into the air box... i know that there must be allot of restriction there, but whats the beter way to get free flowing air? if i remove the botom to the air box it still go through that black arm extention thing...(which is basicly the size the air box hole) so i was thinking on doing that pvc job... but i wasnt shure if i should just go to a junkyard and get the dual snorkle... whats would you rather have? i am leaning to the PVC job because it wont be much money to do... but i a unfirmiliar with the dual snorkle prices

 

Take the whole air intake off and put your hand over the TB and give it a quick rev it makes it feel like your hand is gonna break. But it just leaves a hickey.

 

monkey see.....


monkey do...... :/

 

well... the way I am going to do my ram air is kinda risky but I am gonna run it behind the rad to the back of that plastic air dam that forces air into the rad and cut out a 6 inch space to mount the scoop. I will run 3 inch tubing from there to the intake runner. I also plan on using heat wrap to keep the tube cool from the rad heat. I will be using a nifty little spring loaded tube override inlet(that opens when the induction forward of it becomes blocked/restricted IE a wet filter) that the import sceen has been using for a while now. I plan on using a reactive air filter with the heat shield to keep the system completely sealed.

 

Damn! No flexpipe to be found. I wonder what else I can use for an elbow?

Does anyone have any idea what to use instead of that elbow. I have no clue what to do. I got the PVC and will be getting the cone soon.

Hmmmmm.... any ideas?

 

i am going to the store now and will come back with something if i cant find that "flexplate"

 

...

Well, lets see. The 3" PVC is too big to fit inside the stock air intake thing. I'm just out of ideas! NEED MORE HELP.

 

well they didnt have that black pipe thing...

 

i used hi temp heater hose on my ram air set up, just check out my link.

you can ben it and shape it as needed.



------------------
http://PCperformance-usa.com/86bird/86bird.html

 

Now that is one ghetto *** setup!!! Good job man.

 

Does anyone know if we can take this off and place another type of tubing?


Edit: Nevermind it wants to be a bitch. Anyways, its that tubing that comes straight off the TB.

[This message has been edited by Monkie (edited October 06, 2001).]

 

SAEspinz80???

what did you do with your mass air flow sensor???dosnt it flash at ya for not having it.

and i can tell you that with ram air, water is no problem, i drive my car all year round, and have never had any problem in any weather.

and on them nice cold spring or fall days you can feel the extra power from raming all the cold air into the engine.


------------------
http://PCperformance-usa.com/86bird/86bird.html

 

His car doesn't have a MAF....neither does mine.


------------------
-Dan
-1990 3.1L RS
-Mods? no
-Slow? yes
-Currently collecting parts for T5 swap


[This message has been edited by CaliCamaroRS (edited October 06, 2001).]

 

Now that is one ghetto *** setup!!! Good job man.

yes it is, but it does work well, and took care of the problem of space ad felx when opening the hood.

i would like too make it out of all stainless, find a guy who installes heaters and have him bend up the metal, they do that kind of stuff all the time. but just on the hood i would use metal, you need flex hose for the rest of it.

also other day i found some fans at andersons, that are ment too fit inside that pipe. but they are ac powered, but move lots of air, if i can get a cheap ac power supply, that is my next project, stick a fan in each one and if anything keep the air pressure up while moving slow, when ram air isnt working.


but i do love too tinker and make my own.

my 4 headlight buick wagon is the same way, just has only two head light now and two air intakes. it help that big block 350/4 get moving.

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http://PCperformance-usa.com/86bird/86bird.html

 

hey guys...sorry i haven't been around the last few days but work has been re-g*d-damn-diculous.

i am really suprised that you haven't found the flexpipe! where did you go to buy it? home deopt? a local hardware store may not carry it, but i have seen it in EVERY home depot in CT that i have been to....and thats about 5. i would guarantee you will find it there. its really important for plumbing. so i would head to a home depot and talk to someone. they would have to have it!

when i first did it i tried the pvc idea too and there's no way it will fit! and that stupid black ribbed thing has to stay because the TB is shaped like an oval (those ribs have to be restricting air flow too) and has that metal piece that sticks out on the top. i really don't have any other ideas for and elbow. thats why i ended up buying it.

you know how when exhaust pipes connect and one side is smaller so it fits inside the other. i don't know how it works, but the smaller side may be smaller than 3" inorder to fit inside the 3" piece.....or the the larger side may be larger than 3" so the 3" side fits....don't know how that works for sure, but the smaller side may fit. then again you need to check the diameter on the ribbed piece first. its an off the top of the head thought...and may be a stretch...but who knows....

as for the MAF i don't know really know where it is, where it goes, and how it is connected. so i don't know how to help with that. i know there are half and half opinions about about removing it....just an idea. but i don't know if you would get an SES light or not.

just a note: i first was running my setup without the air temp sensor screwed into the pvc. no lack of perf but the light came on, and its not cool when other people get in the car and see it. the MAF guys would have to help you with that one...