Never done it before, what's the best way?? Mine are pretty dirty...been in for 18k with no baffles.

How much oil do I use? How do I apply it?? Can I use Simple Green to clean them????

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Jason E

'89 Camaro RS
-Medium Grey Metallic
-2.8, A4, T-tops, 94k miles
-Hypertech chip, Accel wires/coil/K&Ns
-Alpine 60x4 and Bostons

'97 Z28
-30th Anniversary package (white with orange stripes)
-LT1, M6, t-tops, 45k miles
-Eclipse CD and 10" Aluminum sub in JL Audio Stealth box, Boston RM speakers, Xtant 403a amp

Speed Kills...Wanna live forever? Drive a Ford.
Long Live #3...

 

best and safest way for me is to just use the real deal K&N oil charger etc.
and the K&N's came with instructions on how to clean them, did ya lose them? if you need the instruction i can e-mail them to ya

 

Go buy the K&N re-charge kit..the instructions will be on the back. DONT USE SIMPLY GREEN! The filter element is cotton gauze with the metal rapped inside it, the simply green will eat the cotton away.

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1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

 

Yeah, the instructions are pretty straight forward... allow plenty of drying time!! After you wash the filter, it needs to air-dry: compressed air will cut the cotton apart, and heat will shrink the cotton (like a t-shirt in the dryer). They say you can put the cleaned+wet+unoiled K&N back in the car, and start the car, and that will dry it off faster.

Then, after you oil the thing, you need to let it dry for a bit so the excess oil runs off.

I was amazed at how much dirt was in my K&N... it really didn't look that bad. What's nice is the element is really colored white (the oil is red), so you can tell if you've cleaned it completely. As a bonus, the car also felt a little stronger with the cleaned element.

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Time has come for me to clean my K&N fiters too. Mine have been on for almost 40k miles. Most of those miles w/ no air box baffles either. I just need to get off my *** and head up to Auto Zone to buy the recharge kit for about $10. I checked mine a couple weeks ago and they were pretty dirty.

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Red 1986 SC, 2.8L, rebuilt 700R4, 3.42, t-tops, 167K miles and counting, K&N air filters w/ removed air baffles, hopefully more to come!
RIP #3

 

for all of u K&N owners , just about how much HP does a K&N filter add . b/c when i checked at my local autoparts store they said it would cost me about 50 bucks , and i was wondering if it was worth it ?
i have a rebuilt sc 1988 2.8mpfi v6 5 spd manual... just about how much HP do i have in there .... (compression after rebuild 160-165 psi )

 

Not much. I think real world it is some ware around 5 - 10HP. mostly you will feel a strong pull and better throtle respones. Most importantly though it is a first step in building a soild foundation. you want to free up your intake and exhuast before doing other mods. You get the bang for buck that way.

 

$50 for one filter, or $50 for the two you'd need in your dual snorkel? If it was $50 for one filter, go to Summit Racing, they're $26 apiece.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

im pretty sure it's 50 for the pair. I got mine from Don's Hot Rod for 25 bucks each.
honestly you wont feel all that much power increase 3- 10 hp is all you should expect, but all at the same time your getting an air filter that will outlast the life of you'r car, get better air suction, and HP increase.

like said above it's the begining for a good foundation, once you can get the air in "K&N's", then you have to get the exaust out "muffler", and the gas through "new fuel filter and/or fuel pump", once all three are done you have a great sturdy foundation for your car's upcoming big mods




[This message has been edited by 87_Camaro (edited November 02, 2001).]

 

dp

[This message has been edited by 87_Camaro (edited November 02, 2001).]