Hi All,
While awaiting funds, I really want my Firebird back quicker than what's happening.
What tips can ya offer me for a quicker job on this mission?
I know, win the lottery!
Here is a few things from my end.
The tranny has recently been replaced, so I know many nuts & bolts may be tighter/looser than some others cars.
I know drop exhaust from back of CC
Drop axle (loosen bolts at shocks in rear)
Drop axle
Drop tank.
How far off am I?
I know Sgt Panther did this fuel pump swap in two week time period.
I want to chisel out the top (from inside car) & reach pump that way!
Thanks!
Karl


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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

cut out panel on top of fuel pump. Add hinges, lock & weather strip. This way, if you need to gain access again, just unlock & flip up.

[This message has been edited by Project: 85 2.8 bird (edited December 03, 2001).]

 

Do not do that.

------------------[*]my Formula Homepage [*]Collision P/Ns & Diagrams

"Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach
you to keep your mouth shut."

 

it might be a good idea actually..... just cut it AFTER you get the tank out.

 

Trust me, it's a very bad idea. You have no idea how large the hole would need to be.

As easy as it sounds, the lines from the top of the pump/sender assembly are hard lines and are brazed to it, it's not like cars w/mechanical pumps that have a rubbler line right off the sender assembly. These lines run up the center of the tank (towards the front of the car) and then run all the way to the drivers side frame rail where they attach to a bracket and couple to the lines that run to the front of the car.

To make a "hatch door" to accomplish getting the pump/sender unit, you would need to cut almost 50% of your hatch floor out which, unless you've got a descent hand at fabbing metal to support this new gaping hole in the floor of your car, will start to compirmise the structual integrity of the car. Not to mention, aside from still having to pull the tank anyways, you'd then have to spend many more hours making some sort of door that reinforces the hole you've cut.

Another thing to think of, the gas tank is only about ½-¾" under the floor, you'd be hard pressed to find a saber saw with a saw stoke of less than that so you'd most likely dame the tank and I wouldn't recommend using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel around the seal of the gas tank.

Take your time & just do it the right way. My 1st time of putting in a pump was on my 'bird shortly after I got it, it took me roughly 10 hours because the only help I had was a Haynes manual (didn't know about Thirgen back then) and well all know how "handy" Haynes maunuals are

Although it's somewhat easier to remve the rear to gain access to the tank, it's not necissary unless you can't get the car high enough w/a jack.

Une roblem area I had on my car was the filler neck catching where it runs thru the frame rail. Don't be scared to yank down on the gas tank to get some extra clearance for the filler neck to come out (hopefully you get what I'm saying).

The only other area of difficulty is getting the tank back in, I'd recommend having a 2nd pair of helping hands around to hold while you try to get the tank strap bolts started.

[This message has been edited by deadbird (edited December 03, 2001).]

 

Forget the cutting . You are just better off doing it the right way even if it is a pain.
Dropping the rear cant be that bad as long as you have a garage to do it in, and have jack stands and the tools to do it. The main thing to me is to get the car high enough so that you will be comfortable under the car ,because you will be under it for a while.
Make sure you get a friend to help or at least keep you company and it wont be that bad.
I've thought of cutting corners on jobs like these ,but I was glad I didnt when the job was finally completed.

GOOD LUCK

 

Having removed and replaced the fuel tank on my 1974 Corvette, I am aware how to reinstall the tank.
By one person.
Insert tank, support with knee/legs, lie on back, start the bolts.
This is not a fun sounding mission.
How high do I have to "jump" to move tank in & out w/o dropping the rear axle?
Does the car have to be level or may it be, off ground-in the rear, wheels on the ground in the front?
I did know & was aware of the "hard Lines".
Really want to chop off/out the innner floor
Just to relieve the frustration!!!

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

I only needed the tires off the ground about 6" (give or take an inch or so) before disconnecting the shocks. Leaving the front on the ground helps give a little extra clearance in the back too.

 

I have to disconnect shocks to lower axle enough to access gas tank?
Oh Joy in Mudville, tonight

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

A few weeks back I changed my pump and tank.I did it all in about four hours,and I didnt take the rearend out.Took out the muffler and I also took the sway bar out.I had the tires about 8" off the ground.

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lol now it needs paint and an int.

 

My fuel pump swap took the better part of a day really, and my car is home of the rusty bolt.
We pulled the muffler off the I-pipe, unbolted the endlinks on the rear sway bar, disconnected the track bar from the body, unbolted the shocks at the axle, removed the heat shields, disassembled the fuel filler bezel, and then dropped the tank. The hardest part was hassling the tank around to get the fuel filler neck out from the frame.
Eventually we got the tank far enough down that we were able to get the sending unit out. Reinstalling everything took about half an hour.

 

THANKS ALL FOR THE QUICK RUN DOWN.
I seem to recall a song....
"I'M SO EXCITED!!".
If it wasn't constantly windy right now, I may consider this challenge.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

I've done it twice; and I'll do it a third and fourth time and 9th time before I'd ever think of cutting a hole in the car.

I wouldn't bother with pulling the muffler off the I-pipe. Disconnect the I-pipe at the catalytic convertor instead. Both times, I did my swap outside, since I didn't want gas fumes in the garage. My btch was (and still is) a bolt in the track bar brace that would not come out- it doesn't even spin! I think it's bent from the rear-end accident the car was in before I got it.

Anyway... tips... replace all the non-pressurized hoses back there, there's 3: charcoal canister, return hose, and vent hose. I used regular fuel hose for mine. I wanted to replace the pressurized tank-to-body hose, but it was special order, and would've taken a week to come in. The price was only $40, I think.

I hot-wired the old pump (thru the fuel pump relay) so it would drain the tank for me. I removed the fuel filter, and put a hose on the filter's inlet, and led the hose into a gas can. Then I engaged the relay, and put my key to "on" so I could see the level of the tank.

Be careful when lowering the axle (after unbolting the lower shock bolts) so you don't stress your brake hose. I removed the clip holding the rear brake line to the body; that allowed some extra "distance" to lower the axle. Don't hang the axle by the brake hose!! The axle drops down to the ground when you've got the track bar (panhard rod) removed; removing the track bar brace lets you yank the tank.

Don't forget to remove the filler door's inside shroud, and the plastic wheelwell cover (to protect the filler neck) in the rear fenderwell.

The tank itself- when you have all the suspension out, remove the strap bolts. I actually remove the straps alltogether to get more room. You'll have to tilt the front (towards front of car) of the tank down, and spin the passengerside of the tank towards the driver's side.

Remove the lock ring with a screwdriver & hammer. You have a pulsator between the pump and fuel feed line. Either (A) replace the pulsator, or (B) use the included piece of hose to eliminate the pulsator. (B) is the preferred option for "performance". The pulsator, $40, used to quiet the pump, has no clamps- it uses O-rings for a positive seal. The o-rings can loosen over time, and leak- and this is especially true if you re-use the old unit! I re-used the old unit on my first job (nobody had told me this); on the second job, I threw it out, and used a piece of hose that came with the fuel pump, and tightened it down with new clamps.

When you put the tank back in, you'll have a bit of a fight seating the tank in it's spot against the floorboard. The key is to remember how you took the tank out! You'll need to make sure the front of the tank (towards front bumper) meets the floorboard FIRST.

OUCH! Okay, okay, stop twisting my arm; I'll add some fuel pump pictures to my webpage.

[edit] Oops, I never edited the pictures; I'll see if I can get to it tonight.

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited December 04, 2001).]

 

Thanks for the through tips.
More than one line instructions, fun fun joy.
I'd rather do an engine swap, right now.
This sounds like such a fun project.
Remins me of when I rebuilt the rear of my 1974 Corvette.
That was fun , too.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA

 

It's really not that bad. It's just a lot of work; the bulk of which is raising the car, and removing/installing the suspension parts. Good luck!!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

 

Wheels off about 6-8"
Higher the better
Fly everyone out for a pump pulling party! LOL!!

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA