Ok so I have my mind dead set on doing a carb swap on my 3.4. The stock EFI is just giving me a headache and I quite honestly dont want to deal with it anymore. I rather swap to carb for simplicity of eliminating the computer system completely. Anyhow I need help getting a parts list together of what I will need to get this done if anyone is soo willingly to help me. So far this is what my parts list looks like:

-edelbrock Performer intake #3785
-edelbrock Upper manifold 4bbl #3789 or 2bbl #3787
-In line Holley fuel pump

So my question is what is the best carb that is a decent price? (200-600 range) I was looking at maybe the Holly 350cfm 2bbl but I dunno what else might be good. If anyone would give me some insight into whether a 4bbl would be better please do so.

Also what would be a good distributor? I was thinking of using a stock GM S10 dizzy from an 85 or 84 but Im not sure if Im better off with an MSD or something. Also do I need to keep my factory coil for this to work?

Im pretty new to the carb thing so any help I can get is appreciated.

 

if ur new to carbs then this swap wont solve any of ur frustation issues. cause u will have to tune the carb and ignition system to get it to run right.

ur much better off learning what u have and how it works and then fixing whatever issues u may have

 

Quite frankly Ive had it with my car in all honesty. I felt like pushing it off a cliff last weekend after trying to get the damn ignition fixed on it. Ive got all kinds of stupid electrical gremlins with the car and just want to get rid of the computer period. As of right now the car gets fuel pressure but wont crank and catch. Ive checked and the battery and starter are both good. It turns over just fine just wont start. Maybe Im just bad at electrical hence why Im doing mechanical engineer.

 

If your going that route, I'd going with a Holley 3502bbl, along with a HEI distributor out of a 80' Citation. This article might help you:

http://www.mgexperience.net/phorum/r...13#msg-1713413


David

 

82 2.8L S10 federal emissions distributor has vacuum advance.

 

Cranks, no start sounds like a VATS problem. Is the fuel pump running for 3 seconds when you turn the key? If you squirt a little gas into the intake does it run for a couple seconds? The chip reader in the ignition switch is probably worn out and doesn't read the chip in the key. So you won't get injector pulse/fuel pump. The ignition module will still give you spark, but without fuel you'll get no start.