Driving from Cali back to Texas my Seals, compression rings, misc gave out enough to ruin my drive.

Last couple of days I have been tearing my engine apart for Rebuild.
87 firebird MPFI 2.8l V6. Automatic

At the moment I am currently stuck on removing Flywheel to Torque convertor bolts from my Automatic transmission. Will buy a impact wrench when stores open back up after the holiday. See if that helps me any.

My other question/ hurdle to get over is how to support the front of the transmission. When I remove the bell housing to engine bolts.

I have a Transmission jack, do I just rest it up against the transmission pan itself, if the rear transmission brace is still attached? Or is my transmission going to want to come down face first and crush the transmission fluid pan?

 

never had a trans jck, just regular, i put a board over the cup, raised it up to support the weight, just bearly, seperated the engine/tranny then lowered and used big azz screwdriver to seperate the two evenly so nothing would be hung up. I imagine a tranny jack would be infanitely more stable than my balancing act with my big ol noggin 3" from the tranny

 

Supporting the trans using the pan is fine in this case.

 

Thanks Six_shooter, Project 85
And I got the Torque convertor bolts off with a larger ratcheting Breaker Bar wedged up by the oil pan gasket

 

A easier way to get the TC bolts off is to have someone hold the crank bolt with a large socket wrench while you unloosen the TC bolts. This is also the easiest way to get them back on on tq'ed down right.

As for the tranny, just take off the driveshaft and tq bar. The shifter cable, vss, and Tcc silenold clips. Also the TV cable(take it off at the TB, intake area) and also the dips stick.

Then put a jack with a board under the tranny pan, unbolt the tranny crossover mount(leave it bolted to the trannny though). Also the tranny fluid lines are a PITA. I just cut them at a good area I could get to then used trans hose to connect where I cut them once I put the tranny back in. Its just a pain to try and unbolt the fitting at the trans itself.

Then you can let the jack down a tad to get the trans to angle itself twards the ground. Then you can just use a 3ft extention with a 15mm socket and take out the 2 top bots, then jack the trans back up and take out the remaining lower 4 bolts. Its not too dificult but try to get as much tranny fluid out as possible after you take the dip stick off so that you dont get it everywhere when the trans finally comes loost and then you can set her on the ground. Also be carful not to let the tq converter just fall out. You dont want to mess up the front pump on the tranny. So just leave the Tq converter on the trans till you get the tranny out from underneath the car.

 

Looks like I bought and assembled the wrong tool to remove my engine.
From the front of the car the shop crane only reaches to wear my radiator would be.
If I get the car jacked back up and remove the tires, I could get closer from the side but still probably a few inches from where I would need to be.

 

What cherry picker did you get??? All you need is something like this, IF you want a cherry picker.

I usually just put the cherry picker arround the front tires on the side of the car, also take the hood off and there ya go.

You cant see it but the cherry picker is whats holding my engine up here. Also used a 4ft choker arround the intake to balance and hold it up. Works well I think.





Heres where the picker came from. 140 bucks though insted of 100.


Or if you have the area to rig the engine just uses a 1 ton chain hoist. There easy to use but then you have to have a good I beam or something to rig it to. I used a come along before to remove a 351 outta a mustang and that was stupid, luckly we didnt drop the engine on the car or us...lol

 

Its a Pittsburg item 69445. 1 ton shop crane i am returning for 20% restocking fee to Harbor freight. only has a top boom of 50 1/4 inches. In a straight line over side or front only extends maybe 20" in. Way i was trying to leave transmission in. The jack would probably be in the way going around the tires in from the side. But was still a little short. If I go in from the front need aprox 54" from nose of car to center of engine.

Good question while im out. What are the threads of the bell housing bolts? Belive for engine stand i need long ones to Attach engine stand to bell housing holes. Ill bring one with m to home depot

I seen autozone suposed to carry a pistburg that is 70+ inches. If i dont fond long enough one while back at Harbor freight.

 

I cant remember what the threads exactly are but I know our head bolts work great. I had so many of them that were used that I just used them for when I put the engine on the engine stand.

Sorry but I have no idea the threads, I know its a 15mm bolt though, thats about it ATM

 

Looks like M12 1.75 threads for the Trans Bell housing to engine.
The cherry picker I got in exchange is just barley short for my comfort from the front. not wide enough to get around tire without lifting car. I am going to take nose off see if I can't repaint it anyways.

Theres a hook on rear RH of Head, I plan on using that bolt for 1 of the 4 hanging parts on the load leveler I bought. And I should be good to use attach cherry picker to bolts on front and rear of heads?

My GM V-6 60 degree how to rebuild book arrived

 

The only way Ive ever taken out my engine is using a 4ft choker on the intake.

Anyway you can secure the engine to the hoist will work. Just make sure its secured well and youll be fine.

 

Ripped the nose off my car and me and the lady got the engine on the stand. Opening her up

 

Sweet. Best of luck man. Let us know if you need any advice or help.

 

I don't know what the correct tool to remove the fasteners that hold my water pump and timing chain cover on.

The have a point star type of head. Theres like three different sizes. I was able to remove a couple with a 1/4 and a 3/8 allen wrnech. But the stuck ones are stripping without the proper tool. I will also bring a couple when I go back out for couple tools I need for taking things apart.

Camshaft Bearing removal tool. Ugg at its price lol. I see I could have machine shop remove, but it may or may not ever see a machine shop.

 

Those are Torx type fasteners.

 

We have been working on cleaning the Block casting numbers. Looks like 8 digits.

One thing only said first digit is capitol letter for Production plant. (it does have GM stamp on it) its a 60 degree V6
it said the next 4 digits are production month and date.
last 3 should tell me what size the block is.

Should the V6 be all Upper case letters do we know or possible numbers to?

I know the Last digit is a upper case E


Rear Casting is O 1 F 5 (letters or numbers not sure)

 

These arent the cheepest but its the exact same set I have. They work wonders when you need them.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1286564

As for the cam bearnings. You can remove them but i HIGHLY sugest paying a machine shop to install them. SO really just have them remove them and install them. But I will ask one thing, why are you replacing them? Are they really bad? Have any pics of them yet? The bearings?

These are ok ones


These are not so good but I did make it 2k hard (turboed) boosted miles with them and had no issues. Its just a roll of the dice I suppose.

 

Nice, I am hoping that the engine just needs cleaning/new gaskets really. I have not got to the bearing as of yet.
If they look good, and I send to machine shop to clean. Doesn't sound like it will be to much extra to have them remove and reinsert the cam bearing if there in usable shape. Can they stay in for cleaning?
When everythings apart and if I am still not sure what size engine to order gaskets for the machine shop can probably measure and tell me what block size it is? I believe numbers on the heads may help

The Water pump torques bit sizes ended up being T50 T40 and T30 I believe.

I didn't find a number punch set in stock local, but can order. If I choose to have my own bearing puller/installer looks like order for me as well.

 

if u have never done came bearings before i highly suggest u pay a machine shop to do it. its only an additional 20-50 bucks for the install ontop of the hot tanking/freeze plugs

most of the cheaper tolls are not any good and wont get the bearings square in the bore

also when u install new rings the cyls must be honed or the new rings will never seal

 

Thanks again, I did fine a hone for the cylinders.
My oil pump screen had some good chunks of gasket and such.
I got a valve spring compressor thats not the C clamp style. Think it will still work.
The guy at local autpo parts store sounded like I can remove heads without removing springs to see the top of my pistons, can see the bottom of them a bit, but will wait to take bottom apart till I have number punch.
Heres a novice question, One of the water pump/timeing chain cover bolts came out about 1 cm, then turns and no more movement outwards, Pry behind it with screwdriver and keep turning? Brake off and try and re tap if doesn't work? Sears had some good full tap and die sets that I saw today.

 

Did you hone it with a ball hone or bottle hone?

You dont have to dissasemble the heads at all to remove them. You just have to loosen up the rocker arm bolts a tad, remove the push rods, and make sure you dont drop the push rods down into the block valley. The rocker arms are 15mm bolts.

That one bolt that wont come out on the timing cover?? Is the head stripped out? If so you could try to cut the head off and then use some vice grips to grab the rest of the bolt and turn it out. If all else fails just re-tap that thing out as its just alluminum. Also I have a extra one in my garage if you really need one but i doubt you cant fix the one you have.

Dont worrie about the oil pump screen much, just make sure you have a clean engine when you go to put it back together. Clean that screen off and your ok to go on that side of the issue.

 

For a hone I just grabbed
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-...one-97164.html

Yeah the bolt stripped sticking out, If I cut the head of the bolt off should have more room for turning my vise grips.

For a valve spring compressor if I end up removing springs for ease of cleaning. Book suggested a large C type. Should this still be ok?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...fier=2052_0_0_

 

Number/letter Punch set on order, be here Wednesday. Harbor freight had a set couple dollars cheaper, but I like the wood organizer

Got my water pump off, its bolt that stripped in there, managed to pry a screwdriver behind it as I turned and it came out, was hoping to not have to cut the end off.
Used rubber mallet to shear gasket off. Timing chain Dampener is pretty well chewed up. Chain loose on one side, can see the gear wear. I read will replace chain gear and dampener at same as gears and chain will wear into.
(promise to get pictures/vids uploaded as I get more parts to show)

 

Intake manifold has big crack through it. Explains the surging I never could get rid of. Any suggestions for a good replacement for these engines?

 

send that hone back , and get a flexi hone off ebay they are 2x the cost but much better hone for somone doing this in the garage

 

What intake manifold is it? The lower middle or upper?? I have a middle and upper still if you want one. There spares that I dont need. Im selling them pretty cheep, I think.

For gods sake dont use a big C clamp.
Use that thing you had in this link http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...fier=2052_0_0_ THats what I have but mines a kent moore one. Wear safety glasses also just in case.

As for the hone. Take that stone one back and use this or somthing that looks like this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-3-4-Engine...3058ff&vxp=mtr

Its a much easier one to use. Our bore is about 3.5xx inches so im not sure on the specific over sized or grit you want. Project89 can help with that. Believe me though Ive used those stone ones on 2 stroke dirt bikes and didnt like haveing to hone one cylinder. For a beginer with just a drill a bottle hone is better.

 

only replacement is a stock one u cannot use the 3.1 intake on a 2.8 they are setup different for the idle air motor, so make sure u get one off a 2.8

 

opps i forgot hes got the 2.8L. I gotta slow down when typing sometimes...lmao

Search ebay and craigs list if you dont go to the yard. http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-CAMARO-2-...11848a&vxp=mtr

 

Woops on important info left out. Its my Lower Intake Manifold

Thank you guys for the hone advice

 

Pricey im my mind on this link...lol and rought looking but they are out there. Look at local yard and im sure you can pick one up cheep. I sold mine the other week for 45 bucks shipped IIRC. And mine wasent trashed. So they arent that exspencive.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1988-2-...eaa466&vxp=mtr

 

3-3/4 is fine to use , the grit will depend on what kind of rings u get i.e moly/cast iron/crome etc

i used a 4 inch in hone when i built my turbo motor cause thats what i had laying around the shop but i dont recomend u use a 4 inch hone if u can avoid it

 

number two piston is trashed, big ole hole broken off.
Good scour mark were the broken side rides

 

Pics!! I want to see some carnage...lol

 

Found more numbers oil filter housing side, rearish of block in dots for 2s2253873
and actually legible A950607ABS

 

top of Pistons #2 is last

just video of Valley under Intake.

 

those are not 2.8L pistons . 2.8's are flattop , looks like somone put a 3.1L engine in there

 

Yup.

And wow. Howd you manage to put a hole in the piston? Looks like you literly burned though it. I would think it hard to kill a piston like that with a 140Hp power plant

 

Yeah when I got the car they said they put 90's engine in. Does it look like the 3.1 or could it be a 3.4? But I never could match any parts. So newer engine with all the 2.8 accessories?
Has some overheat a year ago when drove to Cali, and one big overheat trying to move back to Texas recently. Likely the end of this car . She is so old an cranky as it is. I'd imagine the rest of the parts are not in great shape. keeping eyes open between price for rest of rebuild (if block not cracked to) new/used beater. If I do give up on here hopefully find something running with a V8 for easy of finding parts and upgrades. But my daily driver is dead at the moment . Ill be sad if I am stuck driving to work in something ugly .

 

Believe the engine came from a 93 or newer as thats what I originally bought a book for.

The Piston Rods connect with bolts with more corners. my 14mm socket fits over them, is that what I am supposed to use?

 

just measure the cyl bore and we can tell u if its a 3.1 or 3.4 3.1 would be 90-92and 3.4 would be a 93-94

junkyard engine is prolly ur best bet

 

I got a 3.1L dirt cheep off craigslist. Even got to hear it run and test things out first. So either look there or look at the yards. 100-400 bucks will get you a complete running 2.8L/3.1L/3.4L for the most part.

If you can pick, go with the 3.4L. Always remember that for the most part all your parts will fit right on that new engine. Your basically just using the shortblock if thats what you wana do, which is fine.

 

You gotta use a different point socket. Its the lesser point ones. 5 point sockets......IIRC

 

12 point socket for the rod bolts, anything else will strip them

 

I used a 5pt had no issues at all.

 

how the hell did u even get a 5pt on a 12pt nut lol

 

lol. Hey I managed to get one on there .
12 point side of the 13mm wrench fits better though.

Hey and I found in my old records that the engine was supposed to be a 96 3.4L that was changed into the car.

Ohh and we may have overlooked something yesterday *head scratch

Camshaft

 

Yes those holers/passages are suppose to be there. How do you think the oil gets back to the oil pan?
The valley just looks gunked up. Im guessing it went extra miles betweet oil changes.

Cam looks normal. Hows do those cam bearings look in the block?

Dave you are completly right I had it backwards. lmao. The 5pt wouldnt fit right, the 12 point fit better. Sorry about that. IT was a long day yesterday.

 

Thank You, the holes look kinda irregular so was thinking that part of block was completely gone
Gonna have to buy some 12 point sockets So I can get to the nuts that are lower at the moment, as my crank doesn't seem to want to turn the way I have it at the moment.

 

Got me a 12 point socket after work last night.

Crank

Upper Crankshaft Bearings

Lower crank bearings

few of my piston rod and rod cap bearings

 

It's the same exact intake manifold... The PCV pipe changes and 2 plugs get knocked out of a 3.1 manifold to use the 2.8 parts (plug in the back for the CSI and by the CTS for the CSI temp switch). The nipple for the PCV on the 3.1 is the same nipple on the 2.8 for the idle air bypass pipe.

OP, there is no such animal as a 96 3.4... The 3.4 was discontinued in the F-body halfway through 1995, and FWD blocks don't work in the RWD without fabrication of mounts and the double-bubble bellhousing common to the 3800 and I guess the S10. The VIN derivative (short version of the VIN that was stamped into the block at the factory to note what vehicle the engine went into) is on a boss on the starter side of the engine, towards the timing cover, on a 1/2 by 1.5" block above the oil pan rail. That will tell you with certainty what year the engine is.

13mm 12-point socket for the rod nuts. Other than that, I HATE 12 point sockets.