air injection pump
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 90 Formula WS6
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.28
air injection pump
How on earth do I get the smog pump off my 3.1 v6? the bearings went out and I need to replace it. I see the 2 bolts behind the pulley. are those the only ones? everything is jammed in there so tight. Thanks you
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Leavittsburgh, OH
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L(191ci) V6
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Re: air injection pump
To remove the AIR pump, you first need to remove the the pulley. There are the two big bolts, at the front of the block. On the back of the pump, you'll have vacuum lines the route to the fuel pressure regulator and an electrical plug, for the solenoid. You will also have to disconnect the line, to the check valve, the goes to the passenger side exhaust manifold. It has been almost 2 years, since I ripped my pump off, so make sure to feel around for any bolts that may be hidden. I can't remember clearly, if there are any brackets or bolts, holding the back of the pump. Also, make sure the engine is cold, because, you will be working near the exhaust manifold.
From what my Haynes manual says, the AIR pump can't be rebuilt. From what I read, the impeller gets damaged, when you try to remove it from the assembly. So you will likely have to buy one, from a parts store. As far as I know, Federal law prohibits salvage yards from selling used pollution control devices. Check with a few yards and ask them. Emissions devices are usually very expensive, to replace.
Personally, if you can eliminate it altogether, I would. They rob a considerable amount of power and fuel economy. Also, they inject air into the right side of the exhaust BEFORE the O2 sensor. To do it the correct way, the pump should be injecting air into both sides AFTER the O2 sensor. The pump is supposed to help with cold-start emissions. NOTE: You will fail an emissions test and visual inspection, by removing the pump, altogether, regardless of what your tailpipe emissions are, if the pump is completely removed.
From what my Haynes manual says, the AIR pump can't be rebuilt. From what I read, the impeller gets damaged, when you try to remove it from the assembly. So you will likely have to buy one, from a parts store. As far as I know, Federal law prohibits salvage yards from selling used pollution control devices. Check with a few yards and ask them. Emissions devices are usually very expensive, to replace.
Personally, if you can eliminate it altogether, I would. They rob a considerable amount of power and fuel economy. Also, they inject air into the right side of the exhaust BEFORE the O2 sensor. To do it the correct way, the pump should be injecting air into both sides AFTER the O2 sensor. The pump is supposed to help with cold-start emissions. NOTE: You will fail an emissions test and visual inspection, by removing the pump, altogether, regardless of what your tailpipe emissions are, if the pump is completely removed.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Leavittsburgh, OH
Car: 92 Camaro RS
Engine: 3.1L(191ci) V6
Transmission: 700-R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23:1
Re: air injection pump
I succeeded in removing the AIR Pump. I'll explain in detail how to do it.
1. First, remove you will need to purchase an 81 1/8" serpentine belt. You may have to get an 81 1/4" belt, since I have smaller pulleys on the alternator and P/S Pump.
2. Remove your serpentine belt and unbolt your belt tensioner.
3. You will then need to disconnect the rubber line that goes from the smog pump to the tube in the right exhaust manifold. Plug off the metal line and check valve going into the manifold.
4. Next unbolt the nuts that hold the upper steel bracket to the AIR pump, and remove it.
5. unbol the two bolts that go into the block, next to the timing cover. The pump should be able to be slid forward, off of the studs in the upper bracket holding the alternator.
6. Don't rip the pump out just yet. You will need to disconnect one plug from the back of it.
7. Replace your nuts on the alternator backet, and replace the belt tensioner, and reroute the serpentine belt.
To reoute the belt, do as follows: From the alternator, go under the belt tensioner, across to the P/S pump, go around the pump with the belt coming from under the pulley overtop the water pump, go around the water pump so the belt comes off the bottom of it onto the harmonic balancer, then straightup to the alternator.
You can safely do this without coding the ECM. You will gain power and a signifigant amount of fuel economy. I have been driving for a couple weeks now, the engine runs a little rough when it is on a cold start. It doesn't run hot on the highway, and I am now averaging well over 25 MPG combined city/highway. My current fillup I have driven just over 340 miles, and my gas guage is one needle width under 1/4 tank.
1. First, remove you will need to purchase an 81 1/8" serpentine belt. You may have to get an 81 1/4" belt, since I have smaller pulleys on the alternator and P/S Pump.
2. Remove your serpentine belt and unbolt your belt tensioner.
3. You will then need to disconnect the rubber line that goes from the smog pump to the tube in the right exhaust manifold. Plug off the metal line and check valve going into the manifold.
4. Next unbolt the nuts that hold the upper steel bracket to the AIR pump, and remove it.
5. unbol the two bolts that go into the block, next to the timing cover. The pump should be able to be slid forward, off of the studs in the upper bracket holding the alternator.
6. Don't rip the pump out just yet. You will need to disconnect one plug from the back of it.
7. Replace your nuts on the alternator backet, and replace the belt tensioner, and reroute the serpentine belt.
To reoute the belt, do as follows: From the alternator, go under the belt tensioner, across to the P/S pump, go around the pump with the belt coming from under the pulley overtop the water pump, go around the water pump so the belt comes off the bottom of it onto the harmonic balancer, then straightup to the alternator.
You can safely do this without coding the ECM. You will gain power and a signifigant amount of fuel economy. I have been driving for a couple weeks now, the engine runs a little rough when it is on a cold start. It doesn't run hot on the highway, and I am now averaging well over 25 MPG combined city/highway. My current fillup I have driven just over 340 miles, and my gas guage is one needle width under 1/4 tank.
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