It all started around the beginning of the month.


First my car was acting as if the starter we failing me but it didn't do it daily, then all of sudden it stop. After that my car start to misfire and backfire...today, my car died on me and won't crank for anything but I smell something from the exhaust like rotten eggs or something.
New heads(September 2012)
Changed both cts(September 2012)
New plugs and wires(August)
New cap and rotor(May)
Fuel pump/strainer/injectors/filter three times most recently in May
New cat(September 2012)
I also have a toggle switch connected to my fan rely because my fan wouldn't turn on automatically ...I always have the fan running when I'm driving.
Another thing my car drives better when the engine is cold but once I get to or close to 220 it idles and drives bad. I live in the Atlanta area..can someone plz help me. Also when I try to start my car now it seems like it's out of gas and I have gas in there

 

roten egg smell is typically a bad cat converter , unbolt the ex system before the cat and start the car up and see if it runs better

 

Ok I'm going to try that. Is there anything else that could be the issue?

 

For whatever reason , your engine is either running way too rich or otherwise not burning all of the fuel being let into your cylinders . Raw fuel reaching , and burning , in the converter is the reason your catalyst is cooking .

 

You don't mention injectors or fuel pressure regulator. Both need to be checked before you throw more money at it.

 

I went back to try to get the car started...I checked to see if i was getting spark with a spark tester and I was not. After that, I disconnected the rubber gas line(closest to the intake) to see if gas was flowing and it was. Is it the distributor or distributor cap?

 

Check the wiring to the distributor module, most specifically the 2-wire connectors at the module and the coil. Make sure the wires aren't broken and that the retainer tabs are holding the connectors in place. If the wires are good, take the ignition module to be tested. Chances are it's bad.

 

I am hopefully posting this to get info to some of the similar problems as draco is...
I have a 1991 3.1L Firebird which had a stalling and now not cranking problem..
so the list of things been checked and done..
fuel pump and all things in tank, fuel filter, ECM replaced, plugs (not wires recently), fuel injectors had fire but no squirt, having ICM tested in morning, might be planning on replacing MAP sensor, and IAC as they look bad.
now on another note I have 2 pictures listed below I need to know what they are as the one under the throttle body the pink/black wire is almost in half and the other unknown what it is in the canister for the air filter..

http://i43.tinypic.com/33mtlyg.jpg

http://i42.tinypic.com/2d5446.jpg

and I also need to know what and where a power control module and a Hall-Effect Sensor is located.

thanks in advance for all and any help everyone can give me.

 

You're throwing money at a problem which is probably cheap to fix... Just because something LOOKS bad doesn't mean it is. Heck, I buy and use USED MAP sensors (I got 3 of them for $10 at the junkyard... As opposed to $40 a piece). Clean up the IAC and put it back in before you replace it.

The first pic you posted is the #1 fuel injector connector.
The second one is the intake air temp sensor.

There is no such animal as a "power control module" and the hall sensor is in the distributor, the spider looking thing.

Pull codes from the ECM and check for a code 46... No code 46 means that first you should check for power at the purple wire on the starter solenoid and second locate the starter enable relay near the brake pedal under the dash.

And the same as the above. Make sure the wiring between the ignition coil and distributor is in serviceable condition. Pull a spark plug and make sure you have spark as well once you can get it to turn over again.

 

what is best to use to clean the IAC as it is really really black.

 

You can use carb cleaner or similar provided you make pretty darn sure you don't get any into the stepper motor itself. Or use MAF cleaner. Also make sure that the IAC passage in the throttle body is clean or you won't really fix anything...

 

ok next question for the dumb folks what is a stepper motor

 

the idle air control motor itSelf, spray the pintle only.

 

ok thanks
well as of this afternoon the following items have been done since Oct 2012
Fuel Pump and Assmbly
Fuel Filter
ECM replaced
ICM replaced
IAC cleaned
TPS can not be checked and has not been replaced
codes check and none currently saved
Halls Effect sensor has not been replaced as parts store only has it with the whole distributor for $143. Does anyone know where I might get one?
I have also included a link to a video I made today of trying to crank the car http://i40.tinypic.com/35n3mz4.jpg
if you or anyone else might know what else can be done please let me know. son is leaving to go back home on Saturday and may be after first of year before he is back to continue project.

 

after setting the timing by the crankshaft, the car still didn't start. i looked around the ignition coil noticed the bottom of my ignition coil was cracked open and looked melted..I replaced that and the car started up. I forgot to check the ignition coil previously.