willexoIX

Pics showing the jumpers on D1 and D2, Wire from TACHSELECT to XG1, and the OPTOOUT to TSEL.

Waiting to solder until I know its correct.

willexoIX

MS1/Extra Ignition Manual

The wires going to D14 and D16 (LEDS) from the 1K resistors, are they connecting to the + side or - side of the leds? The diagram shows them connected to the top of the LEDS which would be the +. Is this correct?

project89

iTrader: (1)

install the 470 i rember now i didnt have a 470 and was told the other would be fine
xg1

project89

iTrader: (1)

yes top side of the led closer to db9 the leds should have the flats on that side

i can take pics of mine if u like

willexoIX

OK so being its the 470 ohm resistor, that means its the 5 volt setup, not the 12 volt setup correct?

So,
For 5V inputs fit a 470R resistor into the position of R12
and,
For 5V inputs solder a wire between the top hole of C30 and 5V on the proto area.
and done?

What about Q16? Should I just put it in? I put R43 in already.

Also I will edit in a little bit the list of stuff left out from the instructions, to clarify what all is done with those component spots and components.

EDIT
Q20 transistor
Q16 Bosch BIP373
Q4 transistor
BIP373 resistor
R39 resistor
C30 capacitor
D4,D8 diodes
D1,D2 diodes

I know D1 and D2 get linked with a jumper.
Any other connections get bridged, or components on that list that need to be used?

willexoIX

For the ignition, the lead from the 1k resistors goes to the + of the LEDs, The diagram shows the leads to the IGN and SPR4 connected to the + inbetween the LEDs and resistors; However, the text says to connect IGN and SPR4 to the - of the LEDs. Which one, + or -?

I took my stock CTS out in lieu of a mechanical gauge, Is there another CTS to use on the 2.8 for the MS input?

A pic of yours would be great

willexoIX

Here is mine, almost done

project89

iTrader: (1)

umm im on my way out the door but u forgot to install the leds u have to have those in there

ill answer the rest after i go pick the wife up from work

willexoIX

LOL, thats why its Almost done
I didn't put those in yet, along with 1 or 2 other things. Waiting on clarification to button it up.

Thanks

project89

iTrader: (1)

I'm in the parking lot of her job waiting so replying from my phone. It appeared ur ignition mods are correct. The jumper leads go between the led and resistors quick it looks like u have done.

I looked at my board closer and the top legs of the LEDs are infact - so. When I get back on my computer ill check the manual as I'm pretty sure u uncovered a typo in it

project89

iTrader: (1)

Bye nice and neat job on the assembly. Way better then mine

willexoIX

OK. On my board, the top contact pad for all 3 LEDs are square, Normally indicative of + when polarity matters no?

I got impatient and soldered in the LEDs lol, + lead up top. Didn't complete the ignition circuit to the LEDs yet so if something is wrong I dont have to do a bunch of desoldering.

So if i'm lucky the LEDs are right and I will just have to wire the 1K resistors to the - LED lead instead of the +.

willexoIX

Thanks, this is what I like to do, just wish I could find something around here for work doing it.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i really need a magnifying glass after all theese years of being a welder its finally getting to my eyesight

my boartd is the same as urs square pads on the top and thats were my resistors are jumpered to

my jumnpers to spr4 and ign are also on the same legs between the resistors and leds


here is whats left off my board

q16
q13
q10
c31
c32
c12
r43
r57
r52
u7
r44
r54
r53
r56
d24
q23
q22
r51
r50
r49
r45
r46
r49


my board is setup for gm hei only , so i dont have the opto or vr compnents on it

while u are soldering i will suggest getting a momentary micro switch and installing it in the case end were it wont accidently get bumped and wire it across the boot terminals

makes it much easier to load new code versions

willexoIX

So short lead on the LEDs in the square contact correct? Then top resistor to top lead of top LED(and to IGN), bottom resistor to top lead of bottom LED(and to SPR4).

All sound correct?

Is it gonna matter if I have most of the stuff you don't have hooked up?

willexoIX

Here is where I am at so far.
Momentary switch on the proto area wired to the boot jumpers, Going to drill a hole in the case for access with a screwdriver.

project89

iTrader: (1)

u got it , and no it wont matter , only difference is u could unhook urs from ur camaro and throw it in another car without having to add the additional components

while ur at it add in the launch control circut
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...al.htm#launchC
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...l.htm#launchin

i use the activate low cicut and u can pull the 5v from the proto board , for a switch use a momentary switch , the switch completes the ground to activate the launch control/antilag

or if u want duel fuel use u can use a toggle to switch between 2 fuel maps , one for gas and for e85

or u can have a power tune and an economy tune

willexoIX

So a 2k ohm resistor and 2 IN4001 diodes, I should have enough room for that on the proto. I'll do another electrical connector to the case so I can still unplug the switch from the MS for easy removal. Would it be easier to do the momentary, or SPST switch?


Anyway I can connect the harness to ground and 12 volts, plug the tuning cable in and load what I need to before it goes in the car?

Probably going to start on the harness at some point today. Any pointers when doing the harness? Like move this, that and the other thing for more room, etc..

project89

iTrader: (1)

u dont put that switch ont he case it goes within the drivers reach so u can activate the antilag/launch control from the drivers seat, and u deff want a momentary switch


u can load the code on the bench if u have some form of 12v power supply , or just go grab the battery out of the car and hook it to that

did ur cpu come preloaded with standard ms1 code or did they flash the ms 1 extra code for u


no tips on the harness really, best advice is to mount all ur relays first and run all the necasary powers , then run the rest of the wires

the only last mod i can think of is for fan control if u want it , this way the ecm operates ur cooling fan , but honestly i put mine on a toggle switch in the summer i leave it on anytime the car is running , except on the highway

willexoIX

The switch will be where the rear defroster switch normally is (no rear defroster). The connector I'm talking about will be on the MS case on a side plate. So if I'm pulling the MS out, I can unplug the leads to the switch at the case.


I have no idea, here is what is on the CPU, MSV30 BG.
So power the switched wire with 12v, do I ground all the ground wires? I would presume so.


I have an adjustable fan control wired to the stock fan relay.
Also have a mech water temp where the stock sensor goes. Do I need to get another CTS and do I have another spot for one?

willexoIX

Also, for the megatune225p3 MS1-Extra029y4 install, I know I am going with MAP setup, for the AEM UEGO wideband which do I select under MAP? LC1 or techedge, or can I do that later?

willexoIX

Heres a couple pics. The proto area is now filled, lol. The Ignition circuit at the bottom, The big momentary switch is wired to the BOOT jumpers, and to the side and bottom of the switch is the Launch Control circuit. Can't forget all those jumper wires! I almost forgot I could stand the components upright to save space.

The bottom side is before and after bridging connections to complete the circuits in the proto area. The 2 leads not clipped off are going to be the switch output, I will wire that once I get a suitable set of connectors to fit in the case.

I know the board is dirty, I am waiting to give it a cleaning with alcohol until it is complete, Which it pretty much is. The excessive light is making it look as though those transistors connections are bridged; they are not.

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Soldering looks good. I didn't know that these required so many jumper wires though.

willexoIX

Thanks.
Most of them are for the added circuits in the proto area(Launch control and Ignition), along with what ever needed to be jumpered for my specific application.

What am I doing with TCC for the 700?

project89

iTrader: (1)

forget about tcc right now , u have 2 options later have ms control it , or just goto the trans section and there r a few choices there

do u have a 12v power supply to power up the ms ? then i can walk u threw updating the cpu to the extra code

willexoIX

I can dig one up, 9v should suffice though correct?

Just do a full install on megatune correct?

project89

iTrader: (1)

9v will not allow u to flash the new code
yes full install , and while ur at it grab tuner studio

willexoIX

A jumpbox should work no? If not I will just pull the 12v from the car tomorrow.

project89

iTrader: (1)

jump box should be ok though id rather use the car battery

willexoIX

Car battery it is. Just the grounds and the 12v though correct?

Ill bring my laptop out to the car when you post more instructions.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah u just have to hook up the power and grounds , make sure none of the other wires are bare and touhing anything though

hook it up and use tuner studio start a new project , and select detect ecm , and it will tell u what code is already flashed onto the cpu in the ms unit

willexoIX

Soon as I figure out why its not communicating..
Power is good, 12volts exact. ground is good on all 5 wires.
Continuity is good on the harness cable.
I don't have a serial port, so I got one of the usb-serial adapters from DIYAutotune.com and Installed the drivers. Computer sees the adapter.
Tunerstudio says Controller not found.
Megatune says No response under the Communications/settings and ECM connection.

No smoke or hot components either

willexoIX

I don't have a stim, but I can test for voltages in the MS if anyone knows where I should get what readings. I'm searching and havent found much. I know the Proto Gnd and 5V are getting just under 5V.

I'm thinking its the usb-serial converter but not 100% positive.

project89

iTrader: (1)

in tuner studio just run down the list of com ports its usually between 1-5 but ive seen some pc's use com port say 19

windows 7?
win xp?

willexoIX

Win XP, Tunerstudio lite. It wont detect. I have even done portcheckv2b and it sees the port, just nothing on it. Its set on COM1. It wont let me choose any other com in Tunerstudio.

project89

iTrader: (1)

be sure u dont have the cpu backwards in the socket

ill have to look in the manual but there is a procedure for testing the comunications of the ms unit itself


on the other hand i have 2 laptops here one with windows 7 and one with xp that no matter what will not work with the usb to serial adapter

but it works just fine with my older dell 5150 laptop

willexoIX

How dare you insult my....*cough* (scratches head).

Even as I looked at this statement, and thought to myself, nah, no way I did that. I opened it up, and sure enough...

Even someone like me who works with electronics all the time, did something as silly as put the processor in backwards. Only reason I did was cause I am used to the notch being up on ICs(not always the case).

When troubleshooting something, when someone says to check the simplest thing, CHECK IT. Don't just dismiss it.

Good call project89, LOL.

Tunerstudio now picks it up, but as "unknown" firmware.

Portcheck

portcheck version 2.1 (December 2010)

COM1 Opened
115200 baud
No connection made.
9600 baud
"Bowling & Grippo v. 2.xxx or 3.000"

1 valid port found.

Hit return when done...


EDIT- I took a look in Tunerstudio at where "unknown" pops up at in the dropdown if you check the advanced/offline box.
It comes up where "megasquirt-1_B&G_2.0-3.0" normally is and said is gone from the list when unknown replaces it. Make sense?

willexoIX

On another note while I am waiting on that. The switch i'm using for launch control. The wires leading back to the MS metal case from the switch, I want to find a set of 2 prong connectors with the female end being able to be mounted on the case.

That way, if I need to pull the MS out for some reason, all I have to do is unplug everything, then leave the case end with the connector on it attached to the mainboard when I slide it out.

Anyone familiar with a set of connectors like such? I'm sure radio shack would have some, but the ones around me have barely anything in stock. What specifically would I be looking for?

project89

iTrader: (1)

i think if u install the cpu backwards u fry it , ask on the ms forums or call up or email the guys at diyautotune to be sure

the good news is if u fried the cpu a new one is only 19 bucks iirc , if it was an ms2 cpu that u fried it would be 100 bucks to replace

if ur going to add another connector to the case add a second db9 , or u can jumper the luanch control input to one of the iac wires on the main harness , or one of the unused pins and solder u own wire into the connector

sorry for all the late replies today been helping my friend tear down a 2.2L gas/cng engine in a cavalier all day, aint had much time to be online

willexoIX

Don't worry about it, I am thankful for the help I have gotten thus far

I wrote the guys at DIY and am waiting on a response.

When I plug it to the harness connected to power I get the middle LED on for about 2 seconds then it goes out. It is reading in tunerstudio, just comes up as unknown. Portcheck pulls the info just fine.

willexoIX

Will a fried CPU accept a new firmware? I did the update to MS1/extra and it took it and is no longer "unknown" in tunerstudio. Also came back as ms1/extra on Portcheck so I think I'm good to go?

project89

iTrader: (1)

i don t know ive never fried a cpu before , but if it is holding the code it should be fine , u just need to try it in the car and see what happens

willexoIX

Sounds good. Worse case scenario I get all the wiring done and It doesnt work, most I'm out is for a couple days shipping, $22 bucks for a new one isnt too bad.

Now onto the wiring,
I have removed the ECM and have started disassembling to get to the harness.
2 plugs on the ECM, both come together then there is another plug under the dash.
What were you saying about separating the harnesses?

project89

iTrader: (1)

the 3rd plug was clear right has pink wires in it ?

u cut or remove those witht he harness pull the harness out the fender then seperate it under the hood

willexoIX

Yes its the clear plug with pink wires. Where does that plug go?

I started under the hood, unplugging everything, I'm sure that just made it a little harder. What wires am I keeping and what am I pulling?

Cut all 3 plugs off and pull through the fender? Once out into the fender, seperate all the plugs, etc... What about where the harness leads back through the firewall on the drivers side?

project89

iTrader: (1)

do not cut any wires leading to the driverside bulkhead , those wires lead into the ecm harness u need to sperate those wires from ther ecm wires , the ecm wires go , the wires from the driverside bulck head stay , the ds bulkhead contians the wiring for hradlights horn parking lights and the wires for the gauges


that clear plug is power for the injectors and also the aldl data port iirc

willexoIX

Isn't bulkhead a marine term? Anyway, bulkhead=firewall.

I'm cutting all 3 plugs by the ECM location? The ALDL wont matter anymore, How about those injector wires?

Would it be easiest to take the loom off of the harness, then pull it through the driverside opening (connectors and all if they will fit), then separate everything in the drivers floorboard?

So the only wires that go to or from the ECM are taken out, all the others stay?

Edit- If it matters any, I also have an engine side harness off of a 96 buick century custom 3100.

project89

iTrader: (1)

yes

easiest way is to unplug the ecm conectors then knock out the platic plug in the kick panel were the wires go threw to the fender and pull that side of the harness into the engine bay.

from there remove the loom/tape on the wires and start seperating them

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

Bulkhead is a general term, not industy specific.

willexoIX

Single wire sensor, green with white stripe possibly fan switch back of passenger side head, correct? I broke the connector off of it.

3 wires going back towards trans, on the top of the trans, colors are violet, beige? with black strip and green. shares the violet and beige with the cold start injector. I cant see where the plug is to disconnect it and its preventing me from pulling the harness from behind the motor.