next up heres a far away shot


right below the wiper motor is this connector

all black wires with 1 or 2 running back to the bulkhead theese also stay

 

need to go back and dbl check what the green and thin purple wire are for

i think green was the fan switch

 

I'll see what I can get accomplished tomorrow with those pics. When you get a chance see if you can get those better pics. I know exactly how you feel with the cold, its headed this way monday night. 29 degrees in orlando, brrrrrrr, lol.

I will update when I get back to it tomorrow.

@Six - I have a Chiltons I believe, I will give that a lookover as well.

Thanks! Slow progress is better than no progress at all!

 

worse comes to worse just trace the wires and see were they go , if u know its something thats not needed cut it

the most important wires in that bundle are windshield wipers, fuel pump relay, starter wires,tach wire , coil power wire and the 2 wires running to the alt for the 2 wire plug

pretty much everything else can go

the starter wires are easy to identify as they have ring terminals on the end , alt will have a white 2 wire plug or a black plug , tach has a single white connector , or will go right to the distributor plug , and the fuel pump relay is easy to identify

ur other wires will be a fan relay , and maf relay if im not mistaken , along with oil presure gauge/sending unit , and the coolant temp sending wire which will be a single green wire with a white connector .

if u think of anything specific u need a picture of let me know as ill prolly run tot he farm/shop on my lunch break tommorow

 

Here is what I have so far in pic 1&2.
Pic 3 - HVAC connector? Female plug. At the least I'd like to keep the blower fan operational.
Also project, that 3 wire black plug you said was by the WW motor, I was unable to find that plug.

 

Pic 1 - Alt wires, oops I cut them. I know where the larger red wire is and can splice and solder them together, unsure of where the tan/white stripe wire goes. I will look through my chiltons while I await a response.

Pic 2&3 - I believe that the 3 wire connector goes to those 3 wires that are cut. I want to say those wires go to the fuel pump relay(i think)? Can't quite remember where the 3 wire plug goes...

 

Pic 1 - TCC plug, I know that much lol, one wire I already clipped, go ahead and clip the other 2?

Pic 2 - Can't quite remember what this plug goes to either, although I think it goes to the EGR solenoid.

Pic 3 - Both plugs pictured. I am pretty sure one is for the AC, the other possibly headlights? I'm not sure. The connector I am not holding seems to have way too much bare wire right before the connector.

I have just about 99% untangled, most of the hot wires are on the windshield with their associated splices. The windshield wiper connector (3 wire, lower plug on the motor) has a ground(black wire), can I clip that and connect it to a closer ground so I can get those out of the way?

 

pic 1 second wire goes to alt plug its for the idiot light , and also to energize the alt

pic 2 that plug is no familiar to me i dont think its the relay plug

 

pic 1 go ahead and clip them make sure u leave enough wire so u can wire up a lockup switch later


pic 2 apears to be the old injector harness plug , if it was it would have been located under the throttle body

pic 3
is that a 2 wire plug? if so it apears to be the ac compressor clutch wire

yes u can cut the ground and reground it were u would like

 

ill dbl check that tan/white stripe wire i dont think its the idiot light/energize wire for the alt

 

Its the second smaller wire that comes off of the alt plug. the wires in that pic are from the plug itself. the tan/white is what I am unsure of.

 

the wires that go to the top of the pic in pic 2 go to the relay plug. the wires that are cut I think go to the plug in pic 3, but I dont remember what the plug in pic 3 goes too.

EDIT- The 3 wire connector that was in-line with the fuel pump relay is for the MAF. How do I reconnect those wires to the FP relay without the MAF?

 

Pic 2 I do not think it is the injector harness plug, because the plug under the throttle body was cut so I could pull the wires from behind the alternator. (Post #248, Pic 2. Second connector in from the right.)
EDIT- The injector harness plug has 2 twisted pairs of wires, I am assuming the power wires. that leaves 2 (4) wire connectors. One for the EGR solenoid and one for the front (?) injector harness. I still believe the one in the pic is the EGR solenoid connector because I cut the connector under the TB off.

pic 3 is a 4 wire(green, green, tan/white, green/white) and is in close proximity to the other black connector in the pic.
the 3rd pic in the first post was the connector you are talking about.

I know where the 2 wire connector is, it has 2 black wires, one is a bigger gauge than the other.

Another thing, Do I need the CTS? I have a mechanical where the stock sensor was.

 

just got home from work ill go over ur posts in a lil bit

yes u need the cts for the ms

 

OK so I looked over my Chiltons and here is what I gather.

The 4 wire connector I was talking about is the EGR solenoid connector.

The fuel pump relay, the dark green/white is the 12v to the relay through the ECM, connect that to a 12v switched source(hot in run/start), then connect the black/white to the MS fuel pump input and that should be good to go, making it a ground triggered relay, correct?

The 2 wire ALT plug. The large red wire I cut gets reconnected, the tan/white wire looks in the book to run to the junction block, however the book lists this wire as black/red(Chiltons lists it as "generator", the black/red wire connects to "Battery").

Chiltons also lists the CTS wire as yellow, I am pretty sure this is wrong, as mine I know is green/white to the gauge. Where can I put a second coolant temp sensor so I can keep the mechanical gauge?

I will edit this in a little bit with more information I gather from the Chiltons.
I know certain vehicle books of this age may have wrong information, If anyone has a Hayes or otherwise that lists different information under V6 vin S feel free to post what yours says so we can get the correct information verified or debunked.

 

Correction, larger black wire and blue/black or dirty green/black wire. I think I can cut the smaller of the two wires but leave the larger black wire and plug the connector in the HVAC for ground?

Correction. This is not the fuel pump relay, this is the MAF relay, which I have since removed from the wiring.

The tan/white wire looks like it goes to the same junction block as the larger red wire. Is this correct?

3 wire connector was to the MAF, and was not the FP relay. it was the MAF relay.



The oil pressure sending unit wires and splices. Orange wires spliced to the junction block. One goes to the oil pressure sending unit, FP relay, ECM. I can cut out the oil pressure and ECM wires correct?

 

ur car has 2 senders for cts

one on the intake manifold which is for ecm , and the one that was in the cyl head , this is for the gauge

more then likley u installed ur gauge sender in the head , this uses the green wire white stripe

the one in the intake has a yellow signal wire , and a black ground, this is the one u will use for the megasquirt

the white alt wire will get reconected to the battery , or to the lug on the back of the alternator , this is the voltage sence wire , and controlls how much voltage the alt puts out


correct on the fuel pump relay

 

The only yellow wire in the entire harness is on the frontside injector harness. One sensor in the back of the passenger side head, single green wire(I know its a rad fan switch). One sensor was in the front of the drivers side head, single green wire(this is where the mech gauge sender is installed). I cannot find a coolant temp sensor on the intake manifold.

EDIT - The sensor pigtail is in the injector harness, where the only yellow wire is. mystery solved.

I'm talking about the black 2 wire plug for the alternator, one larger red wire(goes to junction block) and smaller tan/white wire(no idea where this one goes?)

 

u can do this with the alt wiring



the yellow wire that used to goto the cts went back to the ecm u prolly removed it already

that cts is located on the front driverside of the lower intake manifold nexto the thermostat housing

 

u could techinically wire pins 1-2 to the back stud on the alt as long as the ms unit powers down when u turn off the key , so the engine will shut off

thats how i have it on my iroc , but when i flip off the key power is killed to the injectoprs/ecm and coil so it will shut off


the idot light wire is also the turn on wire for the alt without a diode or light bulb inline with that wire the alt will always be on , and when u shut the key off the engine will continue to run on a stock engine

without the bulb/diode it back feeds 12v down that wire continuing to power everything

 

correct

u should be really close to installing the ms harnes snow

 

The way its wired originally, the red wire off the plug runs to the junction block, as does the wire attached to the stud on the back of the alternator. This is the way I would like to do it. Where would the smaller wire on the plug run to?

 

Yes it appears so, and I am amped right now, lol.

more caffeine!!!!

 

run the red wire to the stud on the back , the second wire should be in the bundle of wires running back to the driver side bulk head , if u can find that reconect it as it whats makes the idiot work and will simplify wiring

if u happened to cut that wire off at the bulkhead just run the second wire to the stud on the back as well for now , then once u get the car running on the megasquirt we will deal with it if the car keeps running when u shut the key off ( which if it does u will have to disconect the neg battery lead to shut the engine off )

 

Connect it to the proper wire in the harness. On later 3rd gens, after '88 IIRC, the alternator is different, and may have more than the two wires connected to the alternator. The OEM wire colour for the charge light is brown or brown white, depending on the alternator and actual application.

Umm, no you can't, well you physically can, but it will drain the battery, since the regulator is being kept on.

The charge light wire won't be an issue to an engine continuing to run when the key is turned off, unless it is connected to a true ignition source, where it could backfeed and keep the ignition and EFI systems powered on.

 

3 wires. One on the post and 2 in the plug.

Whatever the case may be, the brown/white wire will be spliced into the coolant fan relay, and to the fuse panel(hot on run only) the way it originally ran factory, which also solves that problem.

 

two more questions, just to make sure I have it right. The 4 wire connector, that only has 2 wires, that plugs into the HVAC connector. Keep the larger ground and I should be able to clip the smaller wire? In the wiring diagrams in my book, that smaller wire is for the AC, which is gone in my car so I can clip the smaller wire no?

I am also looking for a hot on run/start wire from the DS bulkhead to run straight to the switched 12v for MS power. I can look in the book to narrow one down, but if anyone knows which would be the best wire to do it on that would be great.
Pink/Black on the 10amp gauges fuse work?

Eliminating as many wires as possible, lol

 

Pic 1- Injector frontside harness, coolant temp sensor wire runs through here. Am I cutting out the cold start injector plug? and what do I do with the 4th wire from the CSI to the injector harness plug?

Pic 2- Solid purple single wire connector, any clue what that is to? can't find it in the book.
EDIT- Its the O2 sensor connector.

Pic 3- I'm pretty sure this is the dizzy connector?
EDIT- Yes dizzy connector.

 

And one more question cause it hasnt been answered yet.

The IAC pins in the MS, are they unused? (More specifically, are they connected to anything but the harness pins on the MS board?) if yes I can jumper the 2 wires for the launch control input there to use the wires in the harness?

 

Im just about ready to start installing the MS harness. Just need to connect what needs to be connected before I run the harness. Going to install my boost and WB gauges now.

I have removed pretty much all vacuum lines associated with the emissions systems (EGR, Charcoal canister, Cruise control and the orb of power). For the PCV system, the single hose that used to run to the canister just gets capped yes?

Also, the rubber plug from the back of the TB, that also runs to the FPR, I can use that as my ported vacuum source correct?

The back of the intake manifold, where the check valve/T valve is, What am I doing with the check valve, keep it and cap the now open line that used to run to the orb of power(vacuum tank)?

I think the IAC 2A and 2B wires are only connected to the pins and nothing else, So I assume I can use those for the launch control switch. I can't wire that up or run the harness until I get an answer on that.

Other than that, only the injector harness wiring and dizzy connector wiring will be the only other things I will be asking about at this point.

I will stop here and there to take some pics when I start getting the new harness in and post them up.

Thanks for the continued help and pointers guys! Especially Project!

 

So now I am just waiting to put the harness in.

Need help on injector wiring(I'd like to wire to the stock 4 wire connector), dizzy wiring(just to be sure),
I want to install the 36lb injectors(they can be tuned down with MS no?).

Also Project, can I get a base tune with the 36lb injectors non-turbo for now?
For right now I'd like to get the car on the road and driving, I may postpone jumping into tuning until later.

Also I think its worth noting that I didn't touch the left side of the drivers side bulkhead connector(looking from the front of the car). I only did anything to the right side.

 

R goes to pin #24, but thats the WBO2 input?

My dizzy has a 4 wire plug and a 2 wire plug, Coil has 2 (2) wire plugs, one goes to dizzy, the other is power and tach wire.

Injectors, connect the 2 purples together for 1 bank, connect the other 2 green wires together for bank 2? Im hoping I can reuse the connectors and not have to cut the injector plug harness apart. Would it be easier to just make them all one bank like the factory batch fire?

MS power and the 12v to FP relay. I can connect these both to the pink/black wire? Its a 10A fuse in the panel, hot in run/start.

I can't get any further until I get some input.

 

hey i just got home , been busy doing a motor swap on a dodge ram pickup the last 2 days , the good news is i got a free 8.0L v10 out of the deal , now i just wish i wasnt building that 355 for more car

anyways i just walked in the door ill scroll threw ur couple posts and answer ur quwstions after i get cleaned up and make dinner

 

Sweet deal!
Sounds good to me

 

I found this, which is a slightly different diagram than the one I got, and the one that you(project) posted earlier.

http://msextra.com/doc/general/pix/ms1v3-external.png

I think this one clears up the WBO2 input, it looks like this one shows the input on pin #23 instead of #24.
also states that the IAC wires are unconnected at the board, So I'll use IAC 2A and 2B for the launch/antilag switch.

 

u can jumper those wires to use them as inputs and out puts i dont rember were off the top of my head , but the manual will tell u were u can jumper them to on the board

check valve u want to keep it runs to the vacum source for the heater vents , if u apply boost to this libe without the checkvalve u heater will defuat to defroster when u go into boost, its really not a big deal though soon as u get out of boost the heater will go back to whatever u had it set at


the rubber plug on the back of the throttle body is not ported vacum its full time vacum , this should be connected to the fuel presure regulator , also u need to zip tie the rubber plug to the throttle body or it will pop out when u go into boost , its a real pain in the butt so on mine i took out the plug and welded up all the vacum ports and then ran a vacum manifold/log off the rear of the intake to run everything


yeah did u flash the ms extra code to the cpu yet ? if so what version number so i can whip up a tune for the correct code

36's wont be an issue u could run n/a with 50's if u wanted

yeah when i wa stelling u about the bulkhead connector i got it backwards left side is the plug for the headlights parking lights etc

wb02 does not connect to 24 it connects to the 02 sensor wire

the 4 pin dizzy conector is the one that gets wired to the ms according to the diagram i posted , if u can find the old single wire connector that used to be used for setting the timming reuse that connector on the bypass line

the one thing the manual does not start real clearly is that the bypass wire needs to be on a 5volt circut that is not hot in crank but hot in run
i usually do this with a relay i pull 5v from the tps ref line and wire it to a relay i use the relay to switch that 5v on and off while cranking and running

a simpler way to do it is to wore up a toggle switch to the relay and flip it on soon as the engine fires when u crank

with 5volt applied to this wire it allows the ms to take control of the timing , with it off it defualts to the base timing


yes u want 2 banks , one to the left side of the intake and one side to the right , take the injector harness and strip off all the tape so u can see all the wiring in it and u can wire the apropriate wires to each pin on the 4 pin connector u should have 2 powers ( one for each bank) and those injectors wires from the ms for each bank



btw run all ur power wires first , and get a bunch of bread ties , as u run one wire at a time u can use the bread ties to hold them were u want them till ur done , once u have the harness layed out as u want , u can zip tie the wires in bundles and install wire loom



if i missed anything let me know

 

yes they are unconnected till u jumper them so u can jumper one of them to the input side of the circut u built in the proto area for the input , and then the output goes from the output sid eof the circut to js2 i belive i will have to dbl check which pin u jumper to though

 

u jumper the oputput of the circut to js11 for the 3.0 board
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/...al.htm#launchC

 

Can I use that for the MAP and boost gauge? The FPR is the only thing connected to it since I removed the cruise, charcoal canister, EGR solenoid and all associated vacuum lines.

One more question, on the PCV, the line that used to run to the charcoal canister, that gets plugged right? The rest of the PCV system is intact.

Yes I did flash the MS extra, the latest code on the site, 029y4?


I was looking at the wire location on the diagram you posted, the WBO2 input traces back to pin #24 i think. I may be mistaken on that though.

Can you clarify on the bypass wire? I know the connector your talking about, the EST connector that was unplugged to set base timing stock, correct?

Being its only 5 volts to this bypass wire, can I wire just a switch to turn the 5v on/off, pulled from the 5v for the TPS, instead of a relay?


Not sure I quite grasp what your saying. The original harness connector has 2 sets of twisted wires. I looked in the book and it looks like each set has 1 power and 1 ground. Where do the injector wires from the MS get connected? I guess I need a complete explanation on wiring the injectors because I'm just not grasping what needs to be done here.

Only thing you missed I think is the cold start injector plug. Does it just get cut off at the 4 pin connector where the CTS wires are?

Also, pins 1, 2, and 24, 24 goes to the dizzy, what about the other 2?

And the "sensor return". Can I just ground the sensors, then ground the sensor return wire? Or do I need to splice that wire to each sensor?

 

Its connected to js11, But I need to run a 2 wire switch to complete the circuit, I left the ground side of the circuit open with 2 wires that I was going to jumper to the IAC 2A and 2B wires for the switch so I didnt need another connector in the case.

 

anything else let me know

 

its not 2 wires u need u just feed the ground tot he circut on the iac wire , the other side of the switch u are using gets hooked to ground , so u should only need to use 1 iac wire for the antilag/launch control input

on a stick car i use the clutch switch with a toggle inline to disable the system during normal driving

on an auto car i use a momentarty puch button or toggle switch , one side of the switch gets wired to ground , the other side feeds the input side of the circut u built in the proto area

 

Ok, I get what your saying. I'll just use 2 wires cause I pulled the ground from the proto area and ran it next to the other wire, leaving it an open circuit without the switch. Since I need to route one wire to the dash, I'll just route the 2. Personal preference I guess.

so the bypass wire should be tan/black same as the EST connector, this gets wired from the dizzy connector to the switch for the 5v?

The coil has 2 plugs. One from coil to dizzy, and the other is the power(orange) and tach wire?

So just wire the power wire from the injectors to a hot in run/start? probably the injector fuses correct?

 

that works

ill get to work on a base tune for ya in a lil bit should have it posted by monday for ya

what software do u want to use? megatune or tuner studio ?

 

Cap the now open vacuum nipple on the check valve? Its the 3 way check valve? I dont know how to describe it, its a check valve with 3 ports instead of 2. The one thats now open, is the one that used to run to the vacuum tank.

 

Megatune if its easier/better. Its what I installed.

Let me make sure I have the connections to pins 1 and 2 correct. what we were talking about with the bypass wire, Thats the grey 5v wire in the diagram to the "hall" setup with the switch correct?

The orange and white tach wire get cut and replaced with the wires from pin 1 and 2? if so, where do I get the tach input from if nothing else gets connected to those?

Oh, and one more before I forget. For the 12v to power the MS, I have a pink/black wire(hot in run/start), is that a good source for the MS power? Its a 10amp fuse in the panel for the gauges. Can I also run the 12v to the fuel pump relay from this wire?

And for the tan/white wire from the Alt plug, I am running this like stock, spliced to the coolant fan relay, and one other that I cant recall right offhand.

 

And I cant say this enough, THANK YOU!
You have been an incredible resource for this install, And I really appreciate you taking the time to explain everything and work on the tune for me. I now know what you meant about being able to knock one of these installs out quick after this first one.

YOU ROCK!

I can't forget about TGO, an incredible resource.
And all the others for their suggestions and pointers

 

pins 1-2 do not goto the coil , u wire nothing to the coil at all , the only time u do that is if u are doing fuel only and its a single wire to the negative side of the coil for a tach signal

the ms gets its tach signal from the icm the pink coil wire is 12v power and white is tach signal to the factory gauge or aftermarket gauge

power to the ms is good , for the fuel pump relay pull power directly from the battery with a fuse inline ont he battery side


u can pull power from the fuse box for the pump but in a boosted application i prefer a heavy gauge power feed fromt he battery for less voltage drop to the pump

 

OK, so pins 1 and 2 go to the dizzy connector then? Or where?

As for the FP relay, since I had to switch the 12v trigger to a ground trigger for the MS, I was trying to see if I could run that 12v to the pink/black wire. What about running the 12v to the FP relay from the tan/white from the connector on the alt? I think thats where I meant I wanted to connect it. Its only the 12v to energize the relay

 

np man just glad to help out , the first install is always the hardest but once its done u relize that it actually wasnt that bad , and when it comes time to do another one its very simple