I wanna say around 12ish, I was iffy on what I saw in MT on the AFR, which is why I didn't want to take it out. But fast said its linear, which is the problem cause I set it to non-linear, but Ive already fixed that.

So pretty much close the IAC and use the screw to set idle, simple enough.
I may have to take it out tomorrow though, cause its past 10 here.

 

Capping it off would mean cutting the hard hose?
I had a question about the PCV, since I capped off the line that ran to the canister, how will the PCV relieve any pressure that may build up?

Also, Isnt the tube that runs from the IAC part of the PCV hose system?

 

yes the aem is linear , u still have the 36's in it ?

 

the reason the iac tube runs were it does on the 2.8 is thats were the csi injects the fuel into the manifold so it needs air in that passage to pull the fuel to the cyls

u can either cut the hard hose , or just pull it off the iac and cap it there , or pull the iac valve and make sure the pintle is full extended

2.8 iac feeds into the hose
3.1 tb/iac feeds air in behinds the throttle blade

pcv will still work correctly

 

Oh ok, thats why theres that extra spot in the rubber plug on the TB.

and yes the 36s are still in. Had to double up the orings, that prevents them from being blown out of the rail. Plus I'll put the rings on, Fast said I can get them on with some finesse, lol

 

btw ur stuck learnig how to tune , im not really going to just give u new tune files ( 1-2 more to get it running decent enough u can drive it ) but instead im goign to explian what to change and what changes they will have and have u change the stuff in the tune


other wise ur going to be lost when u bolt the turbo on, it really is very simple u should get the hang of it pretty quick

 

Im ok with that. As long as I know what Im looking for and what I want to see. I have been looking at the datalogs and checking out the tables today just for the hell of it and I think I started to pick things up.

I'm pretty sure I'll pick it up pretty quick.

Im currently reading the "tuning your megasquirt" manual as well at
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm

 

yeah ill make sure u dont screw nothing up lol , if ur floowing my tt iroc build thread follow it here instead https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/show...wpost&t=695380

it will be alot more organized

 

So I grabbed the IAC pintle with a pair of pliers and unthreaded it from the base to close the gap, that should work no?

 

yeah that should work if not u can cap the line

 

Pretty sure it worked, I closed that, backed the idle screw out, then back forward maybe 3 or 4 threads and it fired but stalled right away.


I just went out to start it, and adjust the idle. And I did a real quick check of the injectors, and 5 out of the 6 extra orings are broken and laying on the intake manifold. Looks like I'm getting the rings on whether they want to go in or not.

From now on I'm doing a fuel check before driving, cause if I hadn't looked, it probably would have popped out while driving, and that's not good.

 

when u install the injectors coat the orings with grease or oil to help them slid in so u dont tear the orings

if u have to pull a vacum line off ( small one ) then it should idle , from there while its running turn the idle adjustment screw to raise the idle , then plug the vacum hose with ur finger and see if it stalls , u want the idle speed to be around 900 when in park with an auto

 

That's right, you said it's not running off the MAP yet so doing that won't really do anything.

 

dont unhook the map line , it is running off the map sensor , the map sensor was working correctly in datalog 2

 

Ok.

I just got done putting the retaining rings on the injectors, and the injectors in the rail. PITA! I only broke one ring, and made sure when I put both pieces in, that they won't back out. They are in tight so I don't think they will back out. I'll be back in a bit, still need to put the rail and upper intake back on, then I will mess with the idle.

I'm thinking over adjust the idle screw, then when it starts and runs, back it out to bring the idle where it needs to be.

 

that will work as well just make sure it dont start then instantly rev to 4,000 + rpms

 

Got the idle in park set right around 900rpms. Have to give a little tap on the pedal to get it started, but as long as I do that, it starts every time.

Other than that it didn't do too bad, Leaned out a little more than what I liked, but its also my first time using a wideband, or anyband for that matter, lol.

I have 2 datalogs, one on the way to the gas station, one on the way back. Whats up with the resets? The first one I caused by shutting it off.

The beginning of the second datalog, youll see where I messed with the idle screw trying to get it started, so I tapped the gas while cranking and it started right up.

Couple times right around shifting, it felt like it cut spark or fuel but didnt stall. Youll see the higher rpms while cruising, I have done the TV plunger mod for WOT 3-4 shifts, so forth comes on a bit later than stock.

 

On another note I need to check on the powers and grounds for the cooling fan. The fan controller I have is clicking, but the fan isnt coming on. Going to check the fuse first.

EDIT- It was the fan relay, swapped it out with the leftover MAF relay and success.

 

Is the spark angle on the log what the command spark is? Just curious but why is it so low when your cranking the car over. It was actually ATDC on a few of the cells? And was bouncing between 10 then 0.x quite a bit on the 2nd datalog you posted. The rpms and vts looked like you were cranking it over so thats why i noticed it.

Looks like you got it idleing pretty good though. Nice. Definitely wont be hunting without a IAC

What AFRs where you running at idle? And such. I can only see the linear volts on the log. Some controllers are different on there base and celing, I have a SLC which im pretty sure you dont have.

 

It's an AEM UEGO wideband
Idle is right around 11-12

Looking at the gauge while I was driving it generally stayed around 12-14, until it started gaining speed then it hovered around 15-16 until I either gave it a little gas or let off the throttle, then it would richen up a bit and get me out of lean.

I saw I should be aiming for 14.7 AFR, is this correct for NA?

 

I noticed the spark angle as well, although I haven't learned enough to know what to make of it, or just can't put 2 and 2 together yet, lol

Also right now MS is controlling timing.

 

The beginning of the second datalog is where the car wouldn't crank. Then I figured out I needed to tap the pedal while cranking to get it to catch, not sure why though cause it idled almost perfect once it started.

 

Definitely weird seeing that spark advance change like it did. Well better to figure this stuff out now then to have a glitch like that when its turboed. Believe me you dont want to have that. I know dave will get on here and help again but I just figured id scope it out and see how the logs were coming and if you got the idle fixed up.

Can you get MT to show the calculated afr (not Vts') readings and then export them on the excel logs?

I did notice a few glitches in you log. Im not sure if thats a communication issue or it was real but it would spit out info that was way off just for one cell every so often. I had that issue alot when I first started tuning. It was a Tunerpro RT ghost.. But thankfully Eaglemark on here fixed me up back then and helped me understand how to get the program to communicate correctly and not have those pesky things happen.

 

I'm not sure if those glitches are where the reset was coming up or if it was the cutout when shifting. It didn't cut out every time it shifted but from what I can recall it only happened when shifting.

Not sure how to change the afr output in MT yet, I'll wait for Dave to chime in. Right now me and my dad are sharing a power adaptor for both laptops cause mine took a crap, next time I get a hold of it I'll look through MT.

Yea I am definitely glad I am going to learn how to tune, better now so I don't get lost putting a power adder on, lol.

 

Hey fast, are you looking at those logs in wordpad, excel or megalogviewer?

If you use megalogviewer the afr is displayed at the bottom right

 

he is prolly using excel

anyways the hard starting after u drove is is from to much cranking fuel

ill check out the timing when i look over the logs , it will be a lil bit as i have to run back to work and then over to the shop

 

Sounds good, thanks.

 

ok im at work but the damn logs arent opening on this computer ( i hate windows 7) , i should be home in a bit to take a look at them though

 

Yea that's why I didn't want to use my dad's laptop. Try compatibility mode, right click MLV, properties, click the compatibility mode tab and set it to winxp. That usually works, for future reference.

I'm a die hard winxp user, IMO xp was the best Windows they ever made, the others are just madness, lol

 

Before I even get the turbo, I want to understand detonation. I know what it is, I want to know what it sounds and feels like. I have heard it called a "rattle", but I don't think that's very helpful, as most of our cars have many rattles and noises, lol.

 

its pretty good for the most part those low timing numbers are glitches , were are u getting power for the megasquirt ? looks like u have some noise on the 12V+ line which will cause glitches and resets

engine needs to be leaned out just a tad , and acceleration enrichments need to be trimmed back


u also need to calibrate ur tps its showing 20% open at idle , there is a tab under tools in megatune to calibrate the tps


ill make a few changes to the ve table and the ae enrichments for ya

 

it will sound like a metalic knock and or a rattle , not all detonation can be heard , only moderate to sever detonation can be heard

my truck rattles pretty good if i short shift it into second when the motor is cold ill see if i cant get it on video for ya to hear

 

I'm pulling switched 12(run and start) from the gauges 10a fuse. You have a better spot to pull from?

You know the aem gauge, is it ok to run in the yellow leds? Seems like it leaned out a bit while cruising. Is it right to shoot for 15-17afr NA and 12-13 under boost?

 

Could you see the cutouts while shifting? Feels like it stalls but it doesn't. Kinda just drops rpms real quick then picks them back up. I'm also running plus fuel if that matters, it's what I always put in.

 

i have it setup for a lean cruise , also closed loop is disabled atm
n/a
15-17 afr when under slight load cruising
14.0 under slight accelration
12.5-13.0 under acceleration

f/i

same for cruising
12.5 for boost below 5 psi
12.0 under boost above 5 psi
11.5 for boost above 10-12 psi

changes to the timing tables will also change ur afrs so changes need to be done in small increments and in steps

tune ve , datalog , then tune spark table , datalog , then go back tune ve table , then spark etc etc

for now i gave u a very basic spark table , i think i also setup the tables for 15 psi of boost as well , for now we want to dial in afrs , then slowly tweak spark table , while checking afrs along the way


one option i do not have enabled is the afr tables we can setup the o2 feedback to be afr specific , i usually reserve these tables for high boost conditions as a saftey , but we can also set them up to control the cruise regions for better mpg


just for testing can u get power directly from the battery for the megasquirt ? though u have to be sure that the coil/fuel injectors will power down when u turn off the key or the car will keep running with ms hooked directly to battery

 

i did see the dropouts , engine goes lean on the shift ill have that sorted on the next tune i upload

 

It runs good, I didn't really get on it, but it did feel like it pulled more than it did before

 

Should I run power to the MS through a switch from the battery, in case it keeps running? And fuse it with say a 5 amp?

Would it be getting noise from the gauges? Maybe put it on a now unused fuse in the panel?

 

yes

 

I edited my previous post about the noise. I will rewire the power tomorrow morning, my car is a bit loud to start after 10pm, lol. But I love the sound

 

go right to the battery for now it will help narrow down a noise issue

 

Ok, will do, I'll tackle that and the tps calibration in the morning and take it out for a datalog. Since we are getting further into the tuning, do you want me to drive it any specific way or just cruise?

 

just cruise and drive around like normal

 

Here is another 2 datalogs, still resetting and still dropping out every once in awhile. I think running the power wire by the dizzy and coil may be causing the noise?

I took it a little further distance wise than before, aside from the cutouts and glitches it seems like everything is doing ok.

 

And when I shut the key off, it does cut the car off, then I go hit the switch.

 

this is propabaly the issue

 

im on my way to the shop to work on the iroc ill check datalogs and upload another tune later tongiht

 

Cool beans, Ill work on rerouting the power wire, may just run it from the fuse panel in the passenger compartment, instead of the way its wired now.

I like the idea of a kill switch/theft deterrent, Im going to put an inline slim toggle switch for MS power. I replaced the tumbler for the key cause the original key got stuck in the ignition awhile back, now with the replacement you dont need the key to start the car :/

VATS was disabled when I bought the car..

 

Cant wait to see some updates on the Iroc!

 

no real updates on the iroc , im still waiting on connecting rods , and spirolox for the pistons , im just doing lil odd jobs on it like getting the mirror housings primed fixing small lil bits in the interior

anyways i didnt get a chance to do a new tune for ya , i didnt leave the shop till 11pm went picked up the wife and the proceded to lock my keys in the truck at the taco shop , its almost 12:30 am and i just got in the door lol

sometime tommorow ill get a new tune posted for ya