Hey Dave, how did you like those 38° intake temps? Lol I'm in Florida, it's not supposed to get that cold here! I need to move further south! Lol

 

damn how did u manage to spend that much ? iw as thinking u were like 500 or 600 bucks in so far

 

MS and harness plus the extra cpu was around $300
Turbo setup was like $417 shipped
AEM wideband was $130
Cheapy boost gauge was $23
Boost controller was $12
Rad overflow tank was $30
36lb injectors were $150
Serial to usb connector was around $25

Total is right around $1100
That's not including the stuff I still need

 

i didnt realize u paid so much for the turbo stuff i thought u got it alot cheaper , and i forgot about the injectors lol

 

Well that's def a steal for the turbo setup(thanks Chris!) The same turbo on eBay is selling for $400+, but that's most likely because it's off a Mercedes, lol.

 

ppl with oem turbos on ebay are insane , ive seen gt15 turbos off the saabs with like 600$ price tags used , they never sell but dont stop ppl from trying

u can pick up that same turbo from ur junkyard for 50-100 bucks

lots of ppl with oem turbos on ebay goto the boneyard pull off all the turbos they can find and then try to sell them on ebay

hell i picked up my detriot diesel turbos for 150 bucks each rebuilt,
those are 1,000$ turbos

 

Gonna have to add a thermostat to that list. Mine is sticking cause im running 215 with the fan on with a 180 thermostat.

 

speaking of outrageous parts prices.......

i was just browsing my local classifieds trying to find some odds and ends and i find 2 tpi systems , one guy is asking 900$ and the other 750$


LMMFAO

 

Hell, I don't even know what good tpi prices are and even I know that's outrageous!

 

Got all the nuts and bolts i need, plus the 1/8th T and such for the oil lines. Need to get a bung for the pan and oil lines.

Can I use compressed ceramic fiber gaskets for the flanges on the xover pipe? They are 1/8th inch thick and 4 bucks for the pair with free shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281243050861...84.m1438.l2649

Also can i use the 2.8 manifold gaskets made out of aluminum?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121217370955...84.m1438.l2649

 

the 3 bolt header flanges just use copper seal

those manifold gaskets will work just put a coating of copperseal rtv on both sides

 

this is ur best bet on the x over flanges
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MRG7176-Mr-Gasket-7176-Collector-Gaskets-3-Hole-Copper-Seal-/321269137985?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item4acd220241&vxp=mtrwith a lil bit of copper rtv on them

and this is the copperseal im talking about

 

By the time I need to get them, they will be gone, theres only 2 left and I have to wait to get them.
I should be ok with the ones I listed correct?

Heres what I got for the oil lines, And a test assembly of the setup off the car.

should I use the 2" or 1" header wrap? Or does it not matter.

 

save the money on the header wrap u wont need it ,

just use the copper rtv on the xover flanges , just be sure to let it fully dry before u start the engine or it will leak

 

Sounds good. What about a turbo blanket? Just trying to keep underhood temps down because Im doing a top mount IC setup. The headers are coated with hi temp stuff already.

 

Just wondering but that set up with the turbo aimed like that looks a tad tight for the passenger side exhaust out route. Are you planning on running the exhaust 90 back then travel it down the fire wall and out just like the stock routing? Just seems like that IIRC you will be almost turning over 90* to get back going the right way. I would just suggest making up the fitting as well as tight as you can so that it doesn't take a 120* turn then a 30* to get it back straight and looking proper when its going back to the fire wall. And to boot it will always be easier when your dealing with 30 60 90 turns.

I added some pics of when I ran the logs. They might help ya as they are the same as what i had. I just changed the routing and turned up 90* right out of the log into the turbo.

 

Also make sure you pipe up the intake side of the turbo far as you can away from where the inlet is now, unless you want to suck in all the heat that the radiator is dissipating.

 

run it without one and see if u get alot of heat underhood , i doubt u will , i had stainless headers with the xover in the engine bay and never had heat issues , except for when i would drive the car 150+ miles at a time in 100+* weather

and the only issue is id eventually heat soak the charge piping , truth is even if it was all wraped it still would have heat soaked

 

mines just the oposite of urs one 90* on the turbine outlet and i could run it back to the firewall , his might be to low to do that though

 

Daves right. I wrapped my stuff and it works well for the short term but really doesn't keep the temps down anymore unless you just race it. Then you will see the temp stay lower but after 5 minuets of the car running its gonna get heat sink again. The one good thing about the blanket though is the turbo wont fry your arm if your reaching for something in the engine bay and accidentally hit it. I think I spent about 75 bucks on the blanket and wrap in total. Its just something you can do later down the road if you want to harness some more heat and make sure it stays where it should.

 

I think he is a tad low too. What would be better is to raise up that turbo a tad bit. It will also help the oil flow back better and give him some cushion on the oil return line and how crucial his placement of it is. IIRC my face of the flange was 4 inches higher then the top of the pipe on the log. So that should give a little reference on the pics i have.

 

I was planning on doing the 90* off the turbo then a couple 30*s to route it to the original exhaust(pie cuts). Well whats left of it anyway, lol. I think I want to at least wrap the downpipe. It will be trial and error on the downpipe more or less, But I have the entire stock exhaust to work with, from the cat to the muffler, So I think I have enough pipe to mess it up at least 3 times, LOL. As long as I dont have to route it under the K-member I'll be good.

The turbo is mounted backwards from yours fast, Itll be much easier to route the intake at least. I was also planning on making a shield to direct the rad heat straight down, If I dont it will defeat the purpose of the IC altogether.

 

And before I forget, Dave, you said run the shielding to the ground on the dizzy. so connect the shielding to the ground on the 4 wire dizzy connector?

Its definately dropping spark, I mean the AFR doesnt change when It drops, but I'm pretty sure its the spark.

I was also going to route the oil drainback to the passenger side of the pan, instead of the drivers side. Any of you know approximately how far down the oil level is from the pan top when running?

 

My intake was easy to route both times. With the Inter-cooler setup I cut a 2 1/2 in hole where the charcoal can was, and went down to the IC then out and up to the throttle body. Then on the last set up i said heck with the IC and just ran 100% alky..lol I had literly a .5 psi drop at most on the last set up because of only 2 90* bends and 2 foot of pipe which equivocates to 8 foot of lateral pipe.

I would still run the intake of the turbo to a side wall or somthing. If you shield the radiator air down, then you will have less heat dissapation from the radiator and the trans cooler (if you get one) and you intercooler because of the resistance and the air having to make a turn. Its just my opinion though. Everyones' set up is different. But id go for a lower t stat also. I don't think my engine has ever seen above 185* since I installed a turbo. That really helps but that also means that you have mass heat being removed and blown around.

 

I've been running a 180* Tstat for about 2 years now. The intercooler is going to be mounted under a scoop I'm going to fabricate in the hood. Also already have a trans cooler, Fluid runs through the rad cooler, then the trans cooler in front of the rad.

Depending on how I route the IC tubing, I might be able to avoid right behind the fan except for the compressor side of the housing. I should only need 2 90* elbow connectors, and a 45* pipe for in between the couplers.

Crap, the before compressor part of the intake is going to run right infront of the rad fan, Im going to have to do a shield...

Also worth noting I have absolutely no AC components left on the car..

 

I wouldnt run the trans fluid through the radiator then the aftermarket trans cooler. If its a good trans cooler then just run the lines to that as it will dissipate more then enough heat for you. At one point you would actually be heating up the trans fluid if your engine temp is above 180 or and you were cruising on the streets with the TC locked.

Just think about this.... you want your trans temps to say as low as you can and really most like to be under 180* for maximum life. So if you engine is that hot and the delta t is only a few degrees at most then you aren't cooling at all.

I run a 180 also. They work great. Tip is to also drill a pin hole in the tstat. That may save ya one day if it sticks shut. And allows for the car to slowly heat up instead of opening up to fast.

Where is the intercooler going to be? In the hood?

 

HAHA, funny you should mention that. It got stuck shut today! I got another 180* with the failsafe for 10 bucks.

I will be running the IC under a scoop in the hood. It will be mounted on a bracket on a 45* angle, and I'm going to make it a recessed scoop, angling down and sealing against the IC.

Oh yea, Its a silla 2 core all aluminum rad.

 

lol Ive had a few that have stuck wide open so far. Back when the car was a DD and stock I froze my **** off for a week till i could take it apart. Car would only hit about 140 degrees and thats if i was at a stop in town. Also it was about 20 degrees out.

Cool rad. Im sure it will work well, the stocker one sux and really its cooling effect is horrid compared to a 30 dollar fin tube heat exchanger from any parts store. Its hard to get temps that low in reality but I have a trans temp sensor and I normally only get it to 200-210 degrees at the race track and that when I'm foot breaking it at 2800 rpm at the line and shifting at 6k

 

Well this is my DD, lol. Im probably going to aim for 12psi as the end result, still as a DD. Thats why I'm not really worried about going bigger. The hybrid I will probably build piece by piece over time, then the larger turbo, and hopefully by that time I will have found some work, and be looking at getting another vehicle.

I'm still trying to talk my mom into putting a turbo on her honda and leaving the hubcaps on, LOL. She calls it her "Granny car". The 112mph governor comes up FAST in that car, it shifts into 4th at 97 with the pedal to the floor

 

12 psi with that diesel turbo will be like running about 5 psi off a gt3582 , think of boost numbers as just numbers , they have no real meaning other then a number on a gauge

u really have to go by the mass flow numbers not the boost numbers

 

yeah ground the shielding at the dizzy, afr would change if it were droping spark it would actually rich or lean when it misfires

just put the oil return up as high as u can, lol thats one thing the v8 has over the v6 , on the v8 we can plub the oil back into were the mechanical oil pump would go , so much easier , though now that i have the engine apart i may put my drians into the oil pan

 

Do I absolutely positively have to use AN line for the oil feed? I run 40psi at idle and about 60-65psi at WOT. I know the drainback shouldnt matter as its a gravity feed.

Oh and worst case scenario, If the turbo is too low, I can always cut it and reweld the flange higher

 

u could try transmission cooler line but for the few bucks some pushlock stuff will cost i would just buy that , hell u could even use the pushlock hose on the barbed fittings


the feed needs to be 3/16's or 1/4 inch but no larger , anything larger will deffinatly need a restrcitor 3/16's is prefered

return should be atleast 5/8's .ID and be capable of withstanding high temps

 

On the feed i picked up a 1/4 inch barb fitting, to match the inlet on the turbo, so I didnt have to change the size in the middle of the line. The outlet looks pretty big, I can fit my index finger in the hole. If you look up the OEM drainback on that turbo its huge.

Ill look into the pushlock stuff at the least. AN is hard to find around me unless I get it on ebay.

Anyways, im going out to freeze my *** off doing my thermostat and swapping that ground wire to the shielding. Crap, I think I know why its dropping, I just realized I never tightened the ground strap down that I ran it to. Would that do it or should I still run it to the shielding?

 

u can use 3/16's brake line with a few adapter from the parts store

an line is sized in 16ths's so -3 an is 3/16ths -4 is 1/4inch etc

ur not going to find an line or pushloc hose locally , though napa should carry parker pushloc hose , i just dont expect it to be cheap at napa

napa can also make up hoses


the larger the drain hose the better

do both the ground and the shielding

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Super-Stock-Push-Loc-Hose-790004-Earls-SPEED-TECH-/400063729121?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5d25a80de1&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Super-Stock-Push-Loc-Hose-End-700145-Earls-SPEEDY-/400063632357?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5d25a693e5&vxp=mtr

should be some sellers on ebay in fl

besdies those u would need 2 1/8th npt to -4 adapters

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PRE-60416E-4-an-Male-Flare-to-1-8-NPT-Pipe-Thread-Straight-Nickel-Plated-/260876534439?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3cbd7402a7&vxp=mtr
if the turbo has metric threads they make metric to 4an adapters u can screw intot he turbo for the same price as the 1/8th to 4an

but u will need one 1/8th npt to 4an to screw into the tee for the oil feed

 

both the oil in and out on the turbo dont have threads at all.. I'll have to tap them

First pic is the inlet, second is the outlet
Would it be a bad idea to flare the inlet and use fuel injection clamps on both sides of the inlet feed?

 

I hooked the shield up to ground and now it doesn't want to run... it's pouring gas, 10 or lower on the afr. Gas vapor in a cloud around the car. Rough as sin and stalls if I don't have my foot a little on the gas. I'm clueless... I'm sure it's misfiring like crazy, when it's close to stalling both outside leds are lit, guess cause it thinks it's in cranking mode.

 

were did u ground the shielding? not to the ground wire i hope , supposed to ground it to the dizzy base . unhook the shield fro ground and see if it runs

 

That would explain it then, I thought you meant ground both. I know it'll run without it cause it wasn't hooked up to begin with. Where is there a spot on the dizzy to ground it? I didn't fry anything did I? Lol

Wouldn't it be the same whether I grounded it to the dizzy base or another ground? All the grounds are essentially connected aren't they?

Edit- I didn't connect it directly to the ground wire, well kinda did I guess. The dizzy ground was to the ground strap on the block, then the shield I connected to the other side of the ground strap on the firewall, cause afaik all grounds are connected throughout the whole car.

 

let me check diyauto tunes wiring diagrams im thinking u cant ground it on the dizzy side with the new wiring

my other thought is that a piece of wire frot he center of the shielded cable is touching the outer shielding

 

Popped the hood and what do I see? One of the MAP tubes got disconnected. Which would cause it to run rich like last time, minus the injector popping out.

I should technically be able to run the shield to any ground, or is that going to cause feedback?

 

The white is connected to the dizzy wire, black is unused so I just folded it over the plastic coated shielding and taped it away from the connections, and the shield is disconnected at the moment.

 

Here's what my downpipe looked like on the 2.8, you may want to put it a bit higher like fasteddi did. Don't bother with that push lock stuff for the oil feed, just get some tranny line and plain hose clamps for under $5. I would recommend the gaskets instead of the copper & silicone just because I'm silicone-phobic with o2 sensors.

 

I was thinking about flaring the oil inlet and using fuel injection clamps on that and the barb, cause I prefer the fi clamps over reg hose clamps. I was gonna get the gaskets and use the copper spray to coat them.

I'll see what I can do with the downpipe, once I get to that point I'll make a decision then. Also thinking about doing a 90° on a downward angle to bring the downpipe next to the frame rail

 

ok the poped map line is what caused it to run so bad , u can prolly reground the shielding , i checked the wiring and u should be able to ground it to the body of the dizzy no issues

 

i use copperseal on everything havent fried a wideband 02 yet

 

Can I ground it to a dizzy cap screw, in between the cap and the top of the screw, or is there another spot on the dizzy base to ground it to?

 

that works

 

Ok, will update shortly.