Lol, well i did it without breaking anything, and it works just fine. However im still having the problems. I got the gap almost smaller than a playing card, without making contact with the corners.

Luckily, the little plastic nipple that goes through the hole in the strap was untouched, wasnt melted down so i melted it once i put the other strap on it. Its on there pretty good.

 

And heres the rotor after swapping the straps. I think i need to do that map test thing, but i should leave the bypass plugged in right? Im also going to check the timing with it unplugged just to make sure im not seeing things.

I cant help but think the strap and contact in the cap arent lining up again, when i drove it to return the rotor and grab plugs it reset 9 times. And misfired a bunch. This makes me think the timing is jumping. Should I try moving the dizzy back a tooth? Im open to any ideas right now...

 

man thats a lil ugly but hey if it works , yes leave the bypass connected. make an entire ignition map at 12* start the car and hit it with a timing light if it reads higher or lower then 12 u have to adjust the trigger offset accordingly until the timing light reads 12*

 

With the whole spark table set to 12, timing is hovering around 10. I will get another reading because now the exhaust egr block off plate is leaking, man if its not one thing its another. Im going to make a steel plug and weld that one too. I bet the exhaust blockoff plate causes a miss too.

Ill post back when that is welded up. If all is well then I am tearing into it today. Need to do my valve lash while I have those valve covers off, and I need to reweld the power steering bracket, the crack came back.

 

Those ps brackets crack so easily. If you don't use the back steel bracket it a flip of the coin if they will crack. I had mine crack once, then I made up a steel bracket to go around my log header to the block and it never gave me another problem.

 

I used a piece of angle iron to attach the back of the ps pump to the front ps bracket bolt where the ac bracket used to be.

 

Well its not leaking now. Not professional by a longshot but a perfect fit so thats what I did. Its coming off anyway, lol.

The timing was hovering from 12 to 10 with the whole table set to 12. Checked timing with the bypass unplugged just to check base and it was -1, or 1 atdc, so i reset it to 0, plugged the bypass back in.

Still changes from 12-10 checking it with the test map. Bypass unplugged the timing mark is steady at zero.

Im about to reload the other spark table and take it out unless you have anything further to test/try.

Edit- Thinking more about it, it may have been that block off plate all along; when I first installed it it didnt leak and the misfire was gone, then slowly came back over numerous heat cycles. So it was fine, then after heat cycles weakened the steel it started leaking again.

 

No misfires, bunch of glitches in the log, 4 resets.

 

dont worry about the glitches they could be caused by the usb to serial adapter , i get them in my logs as well once in a while

as far as the resets they can also be caused by the usb to serial adapter if the read/write write is set to high , if it isnt affecting the running of the engine i wouldnt even worry about it

i had a link that showed what adapters to use and what to change the settings to if u had issues but its on my old laptop so ill have to dig that out

 

Thats what i was thinking. Its a diy autotune adaptor. If i dont drive with the laptop youd never know it was resetting; it runs flawless now. Gonna start tearing into it today

 

No turning back now, this is the part I love, tearing it all apart.

Hopefully all the other studs come out of the manifold as easy as the first 2, im still pulling brackets at this point.

More to come! Its happening!

 

its to late now but hat i usually do is run the engine for a lil bit and get it upto about 120-140* shut it off then take out the ex manifold bolts , it makes it a lil easier to get them out

also while ur at it and the plugs are easy to get to remove them and gap them to .025-.028 or it will missfire under boost

 

Well i can say that the passenger side manifold literally fell off. Not a single broken bolt/stud on that side thank god. Drivers side not so much, first bolt snapped the head off. I did 15+ heatcycles using pb blaster in between, that definately helps.

I picked up the r42ts plugs, .025 gap on those too? This is most likely where i will stop today, quit while your ahead right? Ive gotten much further in the past 4 hours than I thought I would.

Here is a couple pics of where im at.

 

yeah .025-.028 on any plug u use

 

Ok, I lied. I got the drivers side off too. Only 2 bolts broke, and the stud is sticking out for me to grab. I only broke one, the other was the bolt from the rear ps mount which was broke when i got the car.

Ill be honest, i didnt think it was gonna be anywhere near that quick to get the stock manifolds off. Guess I got lucky.

 

lol now go bolt the turbo headers on

 

Tuesday I will get started on that, my girl is coming over and I get to sidetrack myself on her car, lol. Damn VW...

Tuesday I will bolt the passenger side header on to see where the flange and turbo sit, I may put more of an angle and height on it to bring it up higher and put it on a better angle, then I will put the wrap on and coat it and let it cure while I clean up the engine and do the valve lash.

The carbed 2.8 valve cover gaskets will fit properly with a tiny bit of modification. Also wanted to ask about the cold start injector.

Can I pop the fuel line off the back of it and leave the injector in? Then just plug the hole on the fuel rail?

 

leave the fuel line on and then just unplug the connector from the csi , thats what i did on mine till i went to a 3.1 lower and 3.1 fuel rail

u might actually have urs running before i have my iroc back together

i dont rember did u buy a cam? if u can afford it and u didnt get one now would be the time to install a 252 or 260 cam from delta for 115$ on the 2.8 i would do the 252 to keep the power in the low and midrange , the 260 will move power to the mid/upper range , the smaller the ci of a motor the larger the cam acts vs that same cam in a larger engine

 

Can I pull the fuel line off the injector without any problems? Cause I want to get rid of the stiff fuel line to it and just plug the rail. Im shortening the pcv system to de-clutter. I would leave the injector in, just pull the line off. I pulled the connector when I wired in the MS, just trying to get rid of that hard line.

No I didnt get a cam, and Im not sure how much cash ill be able to get together for the shipping on that hood, im going to run the stock cam for now. I will probably upgrade later once I get used to tuning and such. Most likely when I upgrade to a hybrid t3/t4, ill get a cam and lifters and make the switch to 1.6 roller rockers.

For now what I got is whats going in. I think I will be pretty happy with it. I was able to find a tech article on how to mod the wastegate spring for 10 psi on my exact turbo.

My next step on tuesday is to get the whole exhaust off and mock up the turbo and make some changes to the flange. Then take care of the oiling lines and bung, mock up the downpipe. With the speed Im going Im hoping to get alot accomplished on tuesday.

Between now and then I will be asking and researching on any questions I can think of.

 

Oh and yea, Im hoping to have it running by friday or earlier if all goes smoothly.

 

im not sure if the csi will stay closed with positive intake pressure its not like a regular fuel injector i would leave the line on so it has fuel presure holding the vlave shut , unless osmone can confirm boost presure wont open it and cause a leak

 

Yea that was my thought too. I will leave it as is until I hear otherwise. If thats the case then the only thing preventing boost from entering the valve covers is the pcv valve. I have a break in the line that I repaired with a piece of rubber fuel line. Ill have to reinforce it with epoxy and clamps.

 

yeah i should say u will be done before me

this happens to be a lil distracting


wonder what will be faster the bike or the car lol, might just be a turbo hanging off the side one day

 

CSI = Cold Start Injector?

If you have boost pressure opening that, you somewhere in the 3 digits boost level...

 

The bike, for now, lol.

Id take that kawasaki dirtbike before the ninja. You wont ever see me on a streetbike. I like speed and I wouldnt be alive for long with that bike lol

 

I would hope so. I just wanna get that hard line out of the way. Ill leave it in for now and pick up a block off with the oring later.

 

the highways here are empty and have straights like 20 miles long in some points, im sure it wont be long before i tell u how fast i got it before i get scared and back out of it, so far the fastest the bikes been has been 127 ( still breaking it in)

 

You got more ***** then me lol. Ive taken the camaro up to 129. I feel much better going that fast in a car, though I know there is no way Id survive a wreck at that speed. Unless its got a full cage anyway.

I75 is clear by me at night with no traffic pretty often.

 

I bet the TT Iroc will be as fast if not faster. Sickest car i have seen was an r33 skyline taking a dump on a hayabusa. Just left him like he was standing still.

My dream car is the R34 GTR, some people call it rice cause of fast and furious but the truth is that was japans muscle car, along with the Supras, RX7s, etc. We all know what real rice is, and I still have love for American muscle but the skylines were a masterpiece IMO.

Google the kismo r34 and thats exactly what I want, that car is nassssstyyyy, lol

 

Yes, most GTR's are the car to beat right now. My buddy Carmello has one, just opted for the Alpha 16 package too. Their having a tough time taking on the UGR Lambo's, but those battles between the two of them are insane. Lots of guys on this 3rd gen board are inspired by the one car that will more than likely annihilate both of them, and that's the Polly Trans Am with its' F3R Procharger. Not much a UGR Lambo or Alpha/Omega GTR can do against an F3R V8. You wanna talk about insane speeds/acceleration, google Polly...

 

Thats the sickest trans am ive seen, if only it was awd to put that power down. I think thats probably the only thing that would hold it back from taking a r35. But when it grips that thing would tear it apart. Thats alot of wheelspin lol.

My dream car before I learned of the GTR? Mclaren F1. Its still a sick car too.

Getting started again today, having some coffee then getting back into it. Hoping to maybe have the turbo and headers bolted in today. Already wrapped the crossover, just gotta coat it. Looks like ill have just enough wrap for the 2 headers and downpipe.

How far behind the turbo do i want the wideband, right after the 90°?

 

about a foot , and u want it on the top half of the pipe not the bottom side

best mounting for the wideband is between 10-2

 

Those new Ninja1000's get great reviews!

I did the same during my build...it was summer...I nabbed a yamaha FZ1.. both are great sport touring rigs.

 

Heres a pic of the current exhaust. I wasnt kidding when I said pretty much just a muffler with no pipe, lol. Im going to put a manual cutout before the flange to the muffler.

 

Yea cause you dont want moisture to pool in the o2 sensor.

Right now i got the car up on stands to pull the exhaust out in one piece, cause I couldnt get the collector bolts out.

 

Drivers side rear port is a half inch off. The rest i will have to notch the bolt holes on all of them because they only line up on one port.

 

Yea looks like youll just have to cut, add some pipe, and re weld. Are both sides like that or only one?

 

Also where the flange is for the turbo its right behind the idler pulley. Looks like I will be modifying the flange to bring it down under it then back up cause where it sits the downpipe would have to be IN the frame rail, literally. The vband would be right up against it. Also with the log headers i will have to go over them with the downpipe cause there is no room to run it over the kmember.

 

Just the rear driverside port is like that. But I still have to open up all 4 back port bolt holes cause only the front 2 line up currently.

Not worried about modifying it, just dont see how that back port doesnt line up but the rest do.

 

Also going to bring the turbo flange under the idler pulley, and over to the right some to make room for the downpipe and put the flange on more of an angle to straighten up the oil in and out lines.

 

Not really happy with everything i have to modify to install this setup. Heater hoses and diverter valve has to be deleted. Idler pulley has to be deleted, alternator and tensioner have to be moved. All my hot wires to the junction block have to be moved.

I need detailed pictures of alternate belt routing without the idler. Also need details on how to delete ALL heater hoses, and loop the water pump outlet back to itself or however it has to go. I have NO money left, and im dead in the water right now.

I cant start cutting and modifing the turbo headers without the above information and i need pictures to understand how im going to do this.

I already dont have ac, and i could care less about having heat. The vents I would like to keep.

Ill read through the other turbo threads but if you guys have the info i need, please post it up.

 

Dave and Mark, could I get detailed pics of your serp routing on your setups?

Also heater hoses and such if you guys have a chance?

Im thinking about installing the turbo 180*, IE turn it around on the flange. It may make things a little easier. I would be able to keep the stock belt routing and heater hoses, But im not crazy about doing the downpipe under the Kmember. With the log turbo headers I would have to remove the heater hoses then the ac box is still in the way of the downpipe.

EDIT- I have decided the easiest way to do this is to put the turbo the with the compressor housing facing the passenger side. Downpipe will go under the kmember unfortunately, which is not the way I wanted to do it but its my only option without a ton of modifying to the serp setup and heater hoses. I have no funds left so this is the direction I am headed.

 

First pic is where it would sit as is. Second is where I think ill put it. Third is the crossover wrapped and coated.

 

Well looks like you have some fabbing to do. Best thing that Ive realized is that when it come to the hot piping, its better to just cut and make that fit around the parts such as the accessories and things of that nature. Measure 10 times then cut and weld...

The reasoning for the spacing between the primarys not fitting could be as simple as they weren't welded to the flange while bolted on the header. I've made 2 sets of headers now and though im no expert by any means but that is the most important part. Making the primary welds with the flange bolted tight to the head or a spare head preferably.

I know your set up is different but here is another pic of what my log set up looked like once it was in the car. Never had a issue with spacing on accessories so you can sorta model you logs run off of mine.

 

More pics. Dont know if it helps but i figured pics are better then words.. Hope you can see the belt routing on the last pic. Ill look for a better one.

 

Yea that looks like what I will wind up doing, just not really crazy about running the downpipe under the Kmember, but it looks like itll be my only option right now. Ill cut the flange and make it kinda like yours to bring it under the idler pulley, and mount the turbo like that as well. Makes the charge piping kinda tricky though but Ill figure it out.

Yea its better to have the pics than to try to interpret whats being explained.

 

LOL what pics?

 

I didnt run a pipe under the k member on that set up. i ran a 90 that you see down 18 inches then over another 18 inches to a slanted tip. thats it. no muffler but remember i raced it basically every time i drove it and the turbo really helped to quiet it down. But it was still loud when crusing 70mph....

 

Sorry about that i noticed they weren't there too so i had to go back and toss them back on...lol

 

its all good, lol.

So i did my obamacare crap. Put in $0 income cause im not employed, guess what the cheapest plan was? $181!!! LOL. Good job Nobama