With all the build threads running around just wanted to make sure you were still paying attention to mine, lmao. Just kidding.

Im currently shortening some of the power wires and relocating the junction block away from the frame rail where the downpipe is going to sit. Also waiting to go to the monthly swap meet tomorrow to see if I can get any goodies.

Soon as I get the wiring sorted Ill be able to get that passenger side header back on hopefully without hearing any more cracks. Then I can bolt the turbo on, put the topend back together, route the charge piping and run the wiring for the IC fan and make a bracket.

Then all thats left is downpipe and scoop fabrication along with another sealed airbox. Not gonna lie, I have been slacking, but only because its been raining like crazy for the past 3 days.

One more thing; stock cam and lifters. I did 1/2 turn past zero lash and I want to do an additional 1/4 turn. Can I put that additional 1/4 turn on all the rockers without lining it up TDC 1 and 4? Or do I have to go through the procedure again?

 

Best to make the valve close to lash in the valves/pushrods. It takes longer but is the way to do it. I always went 5/8ths of a turn past 0 lash and never had issues.

 

Found out that 1/2 to 3/4 turn past zero is best, well for the early 60° v6s anyway.

Check out these goodies I found at the swap meet, $5 for both this is where I found the valve lash info

 

nice

 

Got my 2.5 inch vband clams for the downpipe. Im gonna put one on the downpipe in the engine bay and the other on the muffler, that way I can run it open if I go to the track.

7 foot of 2.5 inch pipe will be here monday, by then Ill have just about everything put back together.

I finally got the wiring situated, all the original length of power wires being looped back and forth over itself to the junction block. Got the junction block moved to a better spot and swapped my battery connections back to the passenger side.

Once the turbo is mounted, I can work on cutting out the drivers side battery tray for the filter, and build a clamp down box for the top of it. Then the mounting bracket for the IC, with the fan attached to the mount.

I know, sue me for lack of pictures, lol. Ill have more once I get the top end back on. Now that I took care of the wiring, I can move forward again.

 

Man these things are cracking like rice krispys. I may wind up having to make my own headers and xover, which pushes this build even further behind because I dont even have the money for materials, minus the flanges but still.

Im just going to keep putting it together and get it fired up to see if there are exhaust leaks, which Im positive there will be. These are way too tight and touching the starter and control arm mount. Plus everytime we fix a crack, another one happens. Bout done with the headers but I will put her back together first.

 

Update
Heres where I am at so far, need to do intake routing now.

 

Looks good .. can't wait to hear this little guy scream

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

 

Got my vbands and pipe. 14 gauge, wont be rusting out any time soon, lol

 

Updates? Come on man get that puppy running

 

Very soon. Finished the intake routing, still gotta cut the drivers side battery tray out for the filter, then the IC bracket, plus I took the crappy small gauge wire for the ic fan relay out and put some beefy wire which will better handle the current. Then cutting pipe angles for the DP, its gonna be a tight squeeze but ill manage.

First couple days it will be run without the hood with the ic fan constantly running till I get the scoop made, should make for an interesting ride, though the turbo setup and added stuff will probably weigh as much as the hood so it probably wont be any different then riding with the hood on when it was NA.

Quick question for those who deleted the idler pulley, what length belt worked best? All thats on it is the alternator, power steering, water pump, harmonic and the tensioner. I know I can do the string trick to get a length, but if someone has found one that is the perfect length, let me know. Dont want to go back and forth to the parts store to find the right one

 

Like my adjustable belt tensioner? Lol. Takes out the slack from removing the idler pulley. If its not tight enough ill get a proper sized belt.

Started on the downpipe today, slow but steady. Need an aluminum bung for the air intake temp sensor; its not 1/2 its 3/8, all I have are 1/2 inch bungs. All the wiring for the IC fan is done, itll be controlled by a switch and I will make the MS circuit at a later date.

Also not doing a hood scoop, PITA. Instead there will just be an opening in the hood with a grille and the IC fan will run all the time, dont care about the rain as the hole will not be over the motor, therefore it wont affect anything underneath.

Other than that its almost done.

 

Update!

I have only ever done tac welds before, this is my first time actually welding. Yea its not pretty, but it works

First part of the downpipe is done and my aluminum bungs for IAT are on the way.

 

Seriously? I uploaded a pic and its not even there.

Working on the second section of the downpipe now.

These pics are of the first section. I know, too many 90s in the system, I dont think its really gonna matter with this "tiny" turbo. We will find out soon enough...

 

[QUOTE
I have only ever done tac welds before, this is my first time actually welding. Yea its not pretty, but it works[/QUOTE]

Its all good ... take ur time it'll get better as u go ... looks like could speed up a little .. jus try to go as steady as possible in little "u's"

91' bird 305 TBI T-5, trick flow heads, 4.10 gears, full UMI setup, track times coming soon!

 

Yea Ill get the hang of it. Blew a hole through my first time and fixed it. I love welding, lol.

Downpipe is done, well 3/4 anyway. Running without the muffler for now, when I get annoyed ill put it on, lol. Need to wrap the first section, so I have to pick up another roll of wrap. Then once my 3/8 npt bungs get here I can get it started!

Stay tuned!

 

Good stuff Will, get it done! I wanna see another 2.8 in the 12's...

 

Thanks, though I dont think itll touch 12s with the current setup. They are definitely in the future of this car though, id love 11s on a daily driver; that would be sweet!

Talking about sweet, My friend just asked me if I want to check out some real rocket engines. He recently met someone who used to work at NASA. Rest assured there will be pictures when I check them out! I love NASA, im a space junkie

Who knows, maybe Ill wind up with the first rocket powered thirdgen, lol. Hey a man can dream cant he?

 

ive seen worse looking welds hold up just fine , just grind them down and smooth them out a lil bit and it will look half decent

hopefully u didnt turn that vband red when u welded it , if u did it prolly warped and wont seal right

with the turbo he has it will prolly run in the high 13's low 14's
u still have untouched heads on it dont ya


u prolly wont get anoyed by not having a muffler for a while , the turbine sound is cool and never gets old

 

Yea havent touched the heads. Intake manifold upper and middle was port matched about a year ago. I got the stamped steel gaskets with the ridge for the vbands so I dont think itll be a problem. Plus I did short welds, then welded a different part so I didnt heat it up too bad.

Almost forgot to put the wideband bung in the dp, that was my best weld yet, lol. Gotta pick up another roll of wrap though.

Im officially like 2 or 3 days from starting it, just waiting on my aluminum bungs to come in from diyautotune, once I get those ill be taking it out for a log.

Dave, what table am I zeroing the 150° field in for the warmup for the 160 thermostat?

 

warm up enrichment or wue , u can also click on the warmup wizard in megatune/tuner studio

 

Ok, thanks.

Well 99.9999% done now. Just waiting on the bungs and cutting a hole in the hood. I even dropped it off the stands, pushed it out, put all my fluids in, and washed her. Some much needed attention.

Heres some fresh pics. Also wanted to ask opinions on the heater hose in the first pic, too close or will it be fine?

Also dont rag on the zip ties, only temporarily until I drum up the bracket for the IC, for now it rests securely on the fan bracket.

 

If you can move it any farther away I would say its ok as long as you keep a eye in it. Use some zip ties or something to try and keep a gap between the two 2.Thats the downpipe o2 sensor area right? You can always wrap that coolent line with heat wrap too in that area. Looking good though man.

 

Thanks Mark. I can bend the hard line behind the alt a little more to gain some clearance, I also have some heat sleeve, kinda like the spark plug sleeves, ill put a little bit of that on there and bend it up a lil more.

Cutting into the hood today. I was gonna explain what Im going to do, but Ill just post the pics when its done. I just dont want to disturb the body lines with a scoop on one side of the hood...

That and my air temp sensor bungs should be here today. That much closer!

 

After start enrichment? Warmup wizard only lets me put 100 in the 160° field.

 

Well oiling to the turbo is good, cranks over just fine, but I have spark unplugged for right now so I can prime the turbo before its started. Getting ready to weld the bung in the intake and shes ready to fire.

Then burp coolant, get the bubbles out of the power steering, and top off the oil if I need to. Im not running lucas for this oil change, next oil change ill go back to adding 1/4 quart of lucas with the semisynthetic castrol 5w30 i usually run.

Stay tuned, starting it tonight!

 

Good luck. Vids!!!

 

She started right up. slight leak on the oil inlet for the turbo, letting her cool and fixing that. Small leaks here and there.

Ill have a vid for you guys soon, heres a log in the mean time...

IT SOUNDED AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

no lucas !!!!!!!!!!!!!! at all

next oil change switch to either castrol 20-40 or rotella-t 15-40

 

Congrats Will, now lets see that video...

 

What a set of circumstances. Thank God my father gave me a fire extinguisher before I left. Collector gasket blew out, melted the oil line, and started a fire....

Will update when I get it back home.

Made 9 pounds of boost beforehand and all I have to say is, WOW!

 

Good thing it didnt have a hood on, ive never seen that much smoke in my life.

Ok, extra thick compressed fiber collector gasket.
What would cause it to blow out?

 

they suck dont use a gasket just some copper seal

 

sorry i missed this yes set it to 100

 

Got it home. We are going to hard line oil feed and return. And either straight copper gaskets or copper seal on the collectors.

Ill tear into it tomorrow. Considering what happened it was something small.

I have a log, defiantely need to work on the ve table again. Pretty rich all over. Ill post it in a little bit when I have a chance to look at it.

 

Heres the log. And a couple screengrabs from the log. Looks like it made 195kpa/13.8PSI? from the conversion chart on LS1tech.

I bet one of the boost controller hoses is leaking, A MAP line leaking would lead to a lower reading not a higher one under boost correct? Supposed to be a 6psi spring but the log shows I think 195kpa max. Intake temps got to 121 on one small pull, but thats with no hood and the IC fan on constant. Looks like its gonna need a scoop at the least.

 

Higher oil temps? If so makes sense, but why so heavy?

 

195 kpa is 13.5 pounds of boost its roughly 14 psi per 100 kpa
150 kpa = 7 psi
200kpa - 14.3 psi
250 kpa = 21.4 psi
no need to worry about intake temps till u start getting into the 155+ range

ive torn down turbo engines that have used the thinner oil and the thicker oil
the ones using the thicker oil always are cleaner and have less wear , the thicker oil also lasts a bit longer

what size injectors u have in it im seeing some 19-20ms pulse widths in the logs max is 25.5ms so ur already close to running out of injector or ur fuel pump is not keeping up with demand

 

Its running way rich all around, and I bet its fuel pump. they are the 36lb bosch 3s.

The intake temp came down pretty quick so I think the scoop will work well at speed.

Guess the valve lash adjustment was proper cause it ran great too.

Looking in the log again I see a 15psi max. Definately a line leaking somewhere

 

its running around 11.6afr under boost thats not rich at all

 

Its running around 11-12 at idle and cruise too. Can I run it to 12.5 or less under boost? Looking to run it lean, but not too lean under boost. Also how did the spark/timing look?

Other than what happened it seemed to run great, didnt look like it even went over 167 degrees with the 160 thermostat. Converter seemed like it started slipping a bit too. Butt dyno says I have no idea, lol. With 36lb injectors I wouldnt think I was running out of injector, just the pump isnt enough. Thatll be the next thing, lol.

There was oil on the outside of the cartridge, but I would think the oil from the slight leak I had on startup woulda burned off after it was running, so It may still have a little bit of a leak on the inlet.

Can I use the copperseal spray I got for the collectors, or the copper seal in a tube? And how do you guys feel about hard line for the feed? The oil feed line was soft from the heat but the collector was blowing exhaust right on it when the gasket blew out, so the oil line may or maynot have been fine if the collector gasket didnt blow out.

Also kinda kicking myself in the ***. I shoulda knew something was wrong when it stopped making boost. I did pull over and check on everything, then when I started going again thats when it smoked and caught fire. When I pulled over there wasnt a drop under the car from anything, all looked well aside from the loud *** exhaust leak, but tbh i couldnt hear it over the open downpipe; its pretty freakin loud. Sounds a bit fast and furious ish with the recirculation valve, but sounds awesome none the less. Boost comes on around 2400 rpm, and when it came on just wow.

Course its my first time driving something turbocharged and not all motor

 

12.5 will work for around 5 psi but id keep it at 12.0
use copperseal in a tube
timming is a bit conservative

 

Ill post up my current msq in a little bit if you want to make any changes to the timing. Gonna work on pulling that crossover off and cleaning everything up. Hard to tune the ve table cause its completely different with the turbo on it. What was left of the one collector gasket was toast. Completely charred. Im just hoping those collector flanges are straight for me to go flange to flange with them without leaking.

Also one of the valve covers is leaking even with the new gaskets. And Im trying to figure out whether the bottom oil drain is leaking or the top feed is leaking and making the bottom look like its leaking. Lots to clean up and fix, will update when i get started. Gotta untie the straps and push it back under the carport and get it back on stands.

 

I just used Russel 4 an blue hose for my feed. Its rated at some high temps and pressure. It survived a major explosion/fire last year. Believe me my fire was impressive and depressing as helll at the same time. Especially when you have a tank of alky that burns and you cant see it burning. Needless to say i emptied the whole fire extinguisher on the car and it was a mess and ruined the paint in a few spots on my hood. I had a old braided fuel line between the hard lines and regulator on the return line burst and before I knew it i had a explosion...literally. Didnt know the cause till i could sift out the mess.


You could use hard line I suppose. But if you just keep the exhaust leaks down then you will be fine. Most good braided hose meant for high temp liquids will withstand some high temps but 1000+ degree exhaust is another thing...

 

Crappy internet double post.

 

I guess i could call it lucky then. On quick squirt from the extinguisher put it out but it all happened real fast. Ill give the braided line a shot and see what happens. Hopefully not running collector gaskets or running the stamped steel or all copper gaskets will solve that problem.

Ultra copper is only for 700° intermittent. I dont think that will work at all. Im going to wind up going with either steel or copper collector gaskets. Only place left to check is advance. Unless anyone has any other ideas?

 

Yay or nay? Aluminum collector gaskets?

 

I ran copper ones from orilies last year. Exspencive but worked good.

 

Those aluminum ones are 20 bucks, I just wanna know if they are gonna blow out if it gets too hot. I dont want to run no gasket cause I cant find a high heat copperseal in a tube and 700° is way too low. Also the collectors dont exactly seal completely without a gasket. Im looking at the solid aluminum gaskets for sealing. If not Ill be doing the copper gaskets.

Just looking for experiences or facts about the aluminum ones.

 

IIRC the dead soft aluminum ones are good for sealing up big gaps because there thick and nice and soft....But how big of a gap are we talking about between the flanges?