replace the icm

 

That's what I was gonna say. I almost completely forgot, that when we had those 38-40° temps, it didn't do it at all, now that it was warmer out it was presenting itself, that's why I kept saying wtf, lol. I'll see if I can pick one up and report back. And yes I know to clean the surfaces and use fresh thermal paste.

 

So I just finished up my taxes and I should be able to finish up the turbo install in the next month or so depending on when I get my refund.

I'm gonna have my dad pay for a new ICM, Coil and wires, and pay him back with my refund. So that should be taken care of in the next few days.
Gonna dish out for some new tires too, there won't be tread on my tires for long with the turbo, lol.

Will update soon!
Thanks for the help!

 

just do the icm and wires , no need in replacing everything , just replace what u need and save the extra money

 

The coil is original afaik so its getting replaced. Its old and all cruddy and appears to have white traces on it which may or may not be from arcing. Going with BWD coil and ICM. Then accel wires cause the xact ones i got are way to long for my application. I already have colder plugs with maybe 100 miles on them, they are going in as well.

Im also going to work on a power switch for the MS, the launch control switch, a fan switch for the IC(only for use idling or stop and go traffic), and any other switch i may add into the ashtray spot cause I quit smoking since 2 new years ago. Low profile rocker switches.

The double din unit i got has a bad crystal, and im having trouble finding a replacement so that is put off for now. Once it warms up out tomorrow I'm going to re-run the sensor return to the engine block to see if that cuts down on some line noise. Plus i may install a filter on the 12v line to see if that makes a difference.

Other than that I just need the odds and ends for the turbo setup, and to fabricate the bracket and scoop for the IC.

Also going to invest in a cheap android tablet with bluetooth, and the bluetooth card mod for the MS so I can use the tablet with it.

 

when u get plug wires get the cut to fit wires , will make routing around the turbo stuff easier

 

Very true, probably would have never thought about it.

What did you do with the rear alternator bracket? What about any other brackets off the exhaust manifolds? I'd like to retain brackets and have plenty of steel and aluminum, and a welder for both, so I will make one if I need to. Like I said before, I'm learning to weld and my dad's a welder, I was actually thinking about making a jig, to make some good tube turbo headers down the road, would be a nice thing to have, no?

 

i used to buy my spark plug wire by the roll from msd , though that stuff was overkill , same stuff we used on the blown alky dragster

i ditched the rear alt bracket never had an issue

 

Im just worried about it cause when i deleted my ac, i didnt do the pulley, just the non ac belt, and moved the power steering bracket to the non-ac hole, so i couldnt use the rear bracket. Didnt help that the bolt for the back bracket i think on the exhaust manifold was snapped when i bought the car so it was useless anyway. Slapped the non-ac belt on and had nothing but problems with the front bracket for the power steering. Top bolt hole by the pump snapped off the bracket, had it welded back on. Most of the time it just rattled no matter what I did.

Long story short, i took a piece of angle iron, bent it slightly, and bolted it on a stud on the back of the pump, and to the hole on the bracket where it bolts to the block, and now its SOLID, lol. Ill post a pic tomorrow, its rough but it works well.

 

see thats wierd when i ditched my ac i didnt have to change the bolt holes for the ps pump , belt fit on just fine

 

Crap, slipped my mind. When i did the tv plunger mod, i put a stronger tv spring in, purple color i think. Well it holds the rpms high in first, not as high in second. Also 4th takes a couple minutes of driving to engage. Whats a good option for bringing those high shifts down? Softer spring or a governor recal kit?

 

I tested the MSD wire years ago and found it to be better than other common competitors, only problem is the increased RF interference.

 

id pm dana from probuilt for trans questions , all my transmissions were tci race build kits , i never did any other mods to mine except what came in those kits

basically the kit was good clutches , and a shiftkit

 

The belt was too tight for me, then i caught a thread that said to move the block mounting bolt to the hole next to it, pivoting it on the other bolt. Best way i can explain it. Another thing ill grab a pic of tomorrow.

 

yeah i know what ur talking about i just find it wierd that me and a few ppl didnt have to move it but most ppl do

though i also didnt get the standard belt i did the string trick to measure for what size belt to get

 

My only question would be if it was something i could do myself, which apart from the plunger mod and the stiffer spring, ive never been in a transmission before. Besides the usual fluid and filter change. I am pretty good with engine/mechanical work and possess a photographic memory.

And did full timing set and a couple valves on a 95 sentra, that car gets 39mpg! Lol. Did the timing set twice due to a bad chain, lasted 6months so i did it again for him. I swear, 6 more bolts and the cv axels and i could have pulled the block. Thats all that was left under the hood, thats how far i had to tear it down to do the full set. By the second time i cut 4 1/2 hours out of the job and figured out a couple things you dont have to do per the book.

That car runs like a dream now, but id rather work on my car to say the least.

 

I bet thats the reason right there, lol

 

On my 700r I had a larger boost valve, intermediate valve, and vette servo all from dana. With those mods alone it really helped the line pressure and to stop the flare that would happen sometimes. The line presssure being upped a tad really helped a solid positive shift. Those parts ran up about 40 bucks but made more of a difference then even a shift kit at least on my dataloggs and my bottom of my seat dyno..lol

The governor is what mainly controls the rpm shift points. My car shifted at 5900 1-2 and 5800 2-3 on its own when I wasent shifting manually. As your hp/tq goes up so with your shift point naturally. But to be honest without updating the pump you dont want to shift too high as it wil cause more damage and honestly your not going to make peak hp above 6k rpm on your set up unless you do some major head work and so on....

 

So i would probably be looking at clutches, governor recal kit, and a few small odds and ends. How much of a b**** is it gonna be to do that stuff myself?

Oh and i get that bang-shift on reverse to drive, and a hard 1-2. Think my 1-2 accumulator spring is broke?

 

You might be in better shape to just fine another trans in a junk yard if the one you have is indeed messed up. Toss on a larger intermediate valve, boost valve, and vette servo. That set up right there got me though this whole season and netted the high 12 second passes a few times. I also have a elcheepo tq converter flash staling at 3100 rpm but didnt run my shift kit on this set up. My trans may slip a tad now but it made it though 3k miles of highway and about 100 passes at the track. Not bad for stock clutch packs and guts on 1.80 and below 60 foot times at the track. I picked a used trans at a yard for 60 bucks in the spring and thats what i have in the car still.

As long as the TV is set right, the trans fluid is right, and the stays warm not smoking hot... considering it was a solid trans when you first started, it will work right. And work for a while exspecially if you stay under 300hp. Do you still have a stock converter? The stock one will be horrid for the lag on the turbo from a dead stop unless you have a very low boost threshold as the stock tq converter flash stalled arround 1800 rpm when my car was not boosted. Adding the HP I did got the stall up to 2k rpm on a stock tq converter when I first ran 14.40's the first time out at the track 2 years ago.

Are you planning to race this car? I cant remember what your expectations are out of the set up as that will matter when it comes to your trans set up and rear end set up.

 

Daily driver, lol. The trans is in good condition. Those changes are because of the tv plunger mod and stiffer tv spring as far as i know, those are the only things it changed. When the trans is warmed up its great, when its cold its not that bad, but still a little rough. Only real issue that i have ever had, sometimes it shifts 2-3 at WOT, sometimes it doesnt, if i let off the throttle a little it will shift.

Trying to see what I can do as im sure the clutches are worn.

I may take it to the track a couple times but its not going to raced all the time. Going for reliability with a little bit of power behind it, im mostly a corner carver, though i do like to go fast when nobody is around.

 

I assume your reset the tv cable correctly?

If the clutches are warn bad you will see the fluctuation in rpm on the dataloggs under WOT.

 

Yup, i check it all the time to make sure its good. It doesnt overheat at all and it holds all gears well as far as i can tell. When the tcc was hooked up the trans was amazing for being stock afaik. Ive done maybe 2 or 3 fluid and filter changes since ive had it but no flush. It runs great would just like to replace some of the worn parts on the cheap. Not much left funds wise once i order tires and the rest of the odds and ends to finish up the project.

 

for what ur doing and that small turbo the stock trans is fine

if anything i would do an s10 converter down the road

 

Ill have to idle it until its warmed up then when the turbo gets put on, when its cold the rpms carry pretty high in first before it shifts, so itd be real hard to tune before the trans is warmed up the first couple of times.

How good is the o2 correction when closed loop?

Gonna be at least the 5th for me to get the icm and coil, gotta wait for my refund. So i wont be driving it till then.

 

you need a icm and coil? If the 3.1L is the same as the 2.8L I have a whole mess of those things. 2 msd coils. Let me know if you want them i could sell them cheep. I think I have 1 brand new ICM in the box still because those tend to go out every few years..lol

Yea your trans will work fine. Didnt know if you wanted to go crazy fast or not. But the stocker will keep you happy for quite some time.

 

i leave correction off unles si run afr target tables

 

I dont see why it would be different. 2 2 wire plugs plus the dizzy plug wire on the coil, as long as its the 7/8 wire module its the same. Pretty much the same exact motor, besides bore and stroke i think

 

2.8/3.1 icm coil is identical , if u want to get real fancy down the road u can pick up 6 ls1 coils and u can do a cop setup , and have individual cyl timing control for about the price of a case of beer + whatever the coils run

 

I have the coils off the top of the 96 3100sfi, lol. I could, but i probably wouldnt do that yet anyway.

 

Pm sent.

 

i might be getting back into doing some v6 parts here soon , my buddy just called me up and in about an hour were going to look at a 4 axis cnc mill

 

Hell yea! Thats awesome Dave. Let me know what happens with that, ill definitely send some requests your way

 

The machine was beat up. Lots of play in the table. We passed on it

 

Good call.

 

it was ok for basic work , but not what i have in mind for doing when i can get my hands on a cnc mill

 

Should i drop some money for an aluminum driveshaft or on-car adjustable panhard? Both have good benefits and i already swapped to aluminum drums. Id love to get the driveshaft for less rotational weight, but at this point the cheapest i have found is $150 shipped on ebay. I saw one in florida on the classifieds for 75 but there is no response from the seller :/

On the other hand im tired of the sloppy rear in the corners, but i also know i can box the stock panhard to do the same thing, it just wont be adjustable. I am going to box the trailing arms and control arms in front, but I want the adjustable panhard cause I also want to do a 1 inch drop.

Damnit its one or the other and I want both, lol.

 

Fasteddie, let me know about that coil and icm! Lol

 

I cant believe how anxious and impatient I am right now. Seeing all the other builds going on I just cant wait to finish mine up, lol. I'm sitting here twiddling my thumbs, going over everything that needs to be done and I hate sitting here and not being able to go any further, lol.

Oh well just the little things for now I guess. It'll just feel that much better when I do start on the rest. Only thing I'm not looking forward to is those exhaust manifold bolts. PB blaster then drive it, let it cool, repeat a couple times. If they break flush with the head, throw a tack weld on the stud, let it cool, then tack a nut to the stud, let it cool and try to remove it. Heard someone say it works real well. Ill post the link to the thread if i find it.

 

Don't waste the money on the driveshaft or panhard, you don't need them. A 1 inch drop is small enough that you can slot the bolt hole to get the rear centered again. You can get a disc posi rear from a 4th gen cheap and use some spacers up front to even out the track width.

 

Well the aluminum driveshaft will reduce rotational weight, which I did a little research and came across rotational weight vs static weight.

Rotational weight is roughly 4x static weight. So multiply the weight of the steel driveshaft by 4, and do the same for the aluminum one, it cuts out a little more than you may think.

Doing the steel drum to aluminum drums saved me i think 32lbs of rotational weight. When you add in the drums, driveshaft, underdrive pulleys, and reduce rotational weight in other places(lightweight rims, ect) you are bound to see better acceleration. At least thats the way it works on paper.

If you reduce enough rotational weight in a driveline it will make a difference. For me its enough evidence to invest in. Better acceleration, more fuel efficiency, there is more than one benefit and it all adds up. I honestly want limited slip, stock is an open diff correct? Ill stick with drums in the rear for now. May be upgrading to 1le up front soon.

And ill need a adj panhard when i lower the car dont i?

 

Oh and i promised pics of my rear power steering mount. Its not pretty but it works.

 

Lighter rotational weight is not ALWAYS better.

There are times when more rotational weight is good, it is the "flywheel" effect, where a heavier body in motion will want to remain in motion, keeping the forces higher to be able to propel the object forward easier. This seems especially true in drag racing where the engine RPM changes quite a bit, and the time spent between gear changes can allow an engine with too light of a rotational mass to slow down too much.

Also you have to consider the distance from center at which the weight is. more weight farther out from the center line of rotation will have a larger effect than weight nearer that center of rotation. There's more to it than just taking the static weight and multiplying it to find effective rotational weight.

I too would look else where to find something to replace, upgrade or work on before worrying about the driveshaft or even panhard bar. Good gears or an LSD would be something I'd consider first.

 

I didnt say it was better, i just said it makes a difference. I know that this isnt a 1 variable thing, theres lots of them.

I feel the driveshaft would be good to do. I did the aluminum drums cause they were in good condition, and the pull it place only wanted $10 for both, couldnt pass that up. I dont want to go crazy with rotational weight reduction, my only plans were the drums, driveshaft and underdrive pulleys. But for right now im just gonna pick up what i need to finish up the turbo install when i get my refund.

 

dont get the aluminum drive shaft , when u decide to do turbo upgrades and stuff down the road u will prolly break it

 

Good to know. Thats why i posted that, figured someone would post a yay or nay. Thanks guys.

However, if I were to drop the car an inch all the way around, wouldnt i need the adjustable panhard to recenter the rear? Not a fan of the wheel hop and back end step out. The panhard seems to be the solution to that problem. At the least ill box the stock one to stiffen up the rear.

 

Figures i find out my waterpump is leaking from the lower left bolt. Not coming from the pisser though. Its cheap enough ill grab one and a gasket and switch it out as preventative maintenance. Its not that hard to do either.

 

my car was lowered a lil bit , i didnt need the panhard bar , i did however need the lcarb's
i think founders has them 45 bucks or so , lcarbs are what cured my wheel hop , and i had very bad wheel hop

 

Hey bl85c. How did you possibly fit that tb adaptor on? Its nowhere close to fitting, and it tore when i tried to mock it up, lol. No biggie. What size coupler do i need to go from 2.5 od to the 2.8 TB? 3 inch im assuming?

 

yeah 2.5-3.0 inch for the tb