i use windows 7 at work mostly because our security software and other software we rely on only runs on 7+ , while it is an ok os it still bugs me from time to time

let me save u the time on windows 8 , it was designed around touch screen devices , for a tablet user its nice but its anoying as hell seems stable though, in the last 2 months ive downgraded about 35 computers from 8 back to xp or win7 for ppl cause they couldnt stand it

windows 8 does have a few cool features and i will be picking up myself an windows 8 machine with a very large 48" transparent touch screen but i will only be using it for djing , i wont even use the touch screen on it though

 

7 isnt bad, but XP is what I'm used to and I love it. I won't talk bad about 7 or 8.1, because they are both leaps and bounds better than Vista. I made a business out of reinstalling XP on all my friends Vista computers.

7 is user friendly, afaik so is 8.1(once they put the start menu back in), but I'll stick with XP, for now. I'm not opposed to upgrading to 7 down the road, its whats on my fathers laptop.

I must say though, running linux off of a flashdrive is growing on me; it has MASSIVE potential

 

get urself a copy of backtrack and throw it on a flashdrive, i keep one on my keyring
http://www.backtrack-linux.org/

 

Another thing I wanted to work on, was using one of the outputs of MS to trigger a ground for the fan I am using on the intercooler. I hooked it up to a dead jumpbox and man this thing moves some air! It'll work great. I have a couple 4 wire fan relays and pigtails coming, Already grabbed a weatherpack fuse connector, so when its hooked up itll have all the bells and whistles.

My only question is, how would I go about setting it to come on when in stop and go traffic, or stopped at a light? I was thinking a low rpm trigger, along with a high vacuum trigger, or something to that effect. That way If i'm going say over 30mph or so, its off, under 20-25mph, its on. Only trouble is I don't have a MPH input for the MS :/

 

Looks like they went even further with it, check out the new link
http://www.kali.org/

 

u can use a vacum and throttle position input , u can even get a temp sensor that fits in the fins of the intercooler and input that to the ms and use that t control the on off points

though u could use a an rpm trigger by itself what do u idle at in gear?
just set the setpoint 200 rpms higher

 

yeah its evolved into a full os now , but even back as far as backtrack 3 it was a full grown os , i have backtrack 4 on a thumbdrive i use it for everything from resetting lost passwords to file recovery and windows recovery , and of course all the security testing stuff

 

Idle is around 800-1000, i dont remember right offhand.

I would have to set the rpm trigger higher than that to prevent cycling in stop and go traffic, thats another reason I want to use dual triggers so 2 conditions have to be met.

Is there a ground trigger circuit for outputs or are there just 12v triggers in MS1?

 

shes looking alot better , lil lean in a few spots but looks like shes driving ok

u may want to change ae from rpm based , to tps or map based and see which u like best
i like using the rpm based

 

Ill give that a shot. I moved the MS grounds to the block just because, and Its slightly better but still glitches and resets.

Heres my current VE table, current tune, And 2 datalogs, second datalog I was doing some more VE tuning, I'm sure the table needs to be smoothed out so Im aiming around 14.5-15.1 AFR for cruise, any leaner than 15.7ish and she doesnt like it.

Im beginning to think the misfires may be lean misfires, Ill have to pay more attention next time.

Let me know how that VE table looks so I know if im getting the hang of it.

 

And the second datalog for today.

Dave let me know how the noise looks in these two logs compared to the last.

 

Im guessing the AE and DE are responsible for the crack of the throttle and decel rich?

AE, DE, WE and spark are the things im interested in next, as long as Im getting the hang of it.

I want to lessen the AE to keep it from going so rich on throttle application, and lessen the DE, as long as its still slightly rich but not as rich as it is now.

Its not getting the greatest gas mileage yet but thats to be expected. I still have yet to put the 160* tstat in, I want to get that in tomorrow most likely.

 

the leaner u cruise at the more ignition timing u will need to keep it from poping and or bucking/surging

 

ae is for when u open the throttle de is when the throttle is closed after accelerating

we is warmup enrichment and u have to tune this from a dead cold start

checking logs in a lil bit i gota leave work and run to the store

 

So is it leaner=more timing, richer=less timing? Or is there more to it than that like RPM and MAP dependant? I think I read about it in the MS manual

Whats a good AFR to shoot for in AE and DE? I know the DE is rich as a (safety?) to add more fuel if detonating or something like that when you let off

 

ae should stay even when u hit the throttle or dip just a lil bit , but every engine is different on how much ae it wants

basically u want the engine to be in nuetral and rev up and down cleanly , and then u can fine tune it from there

it just takes more timing to lean cruise ( i.e light load ) then under normal conditions if im not mistaken the stock ecm has like 53* under cruising conditions

 

It goes to about 10AFR when I accelerate when I first hit the pedal, If I blip the throttle it goes 17+ AFR

 

its set on rpm based ae , so u need to know what rpm the ae is lean at and ajust it there
on the rich side note the rpm and adjust that cell

 

You said you liked using rpm based, have you tried MAP based? whats your take on the different choices

 

i didnt like map based when i had the small turbo on my car and the loose converter , what would happen is at above a certian rpm if i steped on it id have instant boost and ae wasnt injecting enough fuel so id get a lean pop.

that being said i also never took the time to try to tune it out i just switched right to rpm based cause it had just been added to the code and worked much better for my app

in various installs i have used all the ae options and they all work good rpm based is the easiest to tune so far, though it does not give as much fine tuning ability as tps or map based

 

also u can use a blend of tps and map based ae instead of just one of the types

 

I'm working with a similar setup. Its a small T3, and a diesel turbo. The diesel turbo from what I read and from what bl85c told me, itll be quick to spool, and be in boost sooner. I am staying with a smaller diameter charge pipes, that small intercooler, and limited tubing; Im making the rest of the system match the turbo size wise for efficiency. That 7" fan I got for the intercooler flows just over 2000cfms or something, So I dont think I'll have any problems with heatsoak except when the car is off after driving.

Because its off of a 3L, and its a diesel turbo, itll be a pretty good first turbo and be really fun to drive I think

 

Hey bl85c, what did that turbo/exhaust sound like? And what exhaust setup did you have with it? Did it have the diesel whine?

 

Tomorrow I am going to separate the sensor grounds from ground and wire them directly to the sensor return, hopefully that should get rid of the resets.

 

I think it may need more WE, on first crank lately it goes lean and stalls unless I give it more gas. It's almost like the idle is set low, but it's set for just over 1000rpm now.

 

open the warmup wizzard on the first start and adjust the cell that is highlighted , as the engne warms up different cells will highlight to show u which cell its using and u can adjust those up or down as the car runs

 

OK, I got that squared away pretty quick. Did you have a chance to look at the previous 2 logs? I isolated the sensor return, I'm waiting for this rain to pass to take it out for another log.

If I am going to stay with RPM based AE and DE, I can do that idling in park or neutral from what I read, correct? Whats some quick dos and donts for getting the throttle response where I want it tuning AE?

 

FYI, nothing was changed on the megasquirt or megatune, But the logs are no longer showing resets like they did before, and they dont coincide with whats left of the dropouts.

That leads me to believe its just a serial communication bug. There were a couple threads where Matt and James say they arent genuine "resets" in the log on msextra forums.

Being the resets used to show up as "MARK RESET" in MLV, and no longer show up as resets, I'm betting on the fact its between the adaptor and laptop.

Will know for sure when I take it out tonight.

EDIT - Looks like I lied, just looked through the datalog again and they do show as resets so there goes that idea

 

unhook ur alternator and see if they go away

 

The 2 wire plug on the back? I havent had a chance to take it out after re-doing the sensor return, but when I started it to mess with the WE it seemed 100 times better so we will see what happens when I take it out.

 

yeah unplug the 2 wire connector then start the car and see if it goes away

 

Didnt try unplugging the alt wire yet.

Took it out for a drive, now resetting less and cutting out less, So I tuned VE some more. Didnt touch the AE or DE yet.
Here is a zip with my current VE, Tune and datalog.

Let me know how it looks

 

Id have to drive it to see if it would happen, itll sit there at idle and purr like a cat and itll never happen.

resets occur mostly on decel, cutouts seem to happen low load/low rpm. I tried with the dwell settings either way and it didnt really change.

 

ill look at the log in a lil bit , u can drive it with the alt unplugged just dont drive it far as the battery wont be recharging , prolly best to do it in the daytime so u dont have the headlights and stuff drawing power from the battery

u have ruled out just about anything to do with real resests except for noise on the power line, i had one alt on my v6 that put out alot of noise and caused alot of resets once i changed it they went away , ull know right away when u unplug yours if its the cause

 

Think I'd be able to get away with an alt rebuild if thats the case? Its not really that old, car hasnt gotten a whole lotta miles on it since it was changed last.

 

npoise suppressor on the power line may even take care of the issue if thats what it is

 

A typical stereo/alternator filter should work on the 12v to the MS right?

 

What is this ? What it the benefit? And does it go on the dual connector ? Like inline

91' firebird .. 305 TBI .030 over , balanced bottom end , speed pro hyper flattops , 10.6:1 CR , all ARP rod bolts and main studs , melling HV oil pump , trick flow super 23 175cc heads, Howards HR 214/218@.050 .488/.495 lift on 114 LSA , full roller 1.6 RR = .520/.528 lift , summit dual plane intake port matched , shorty headers into 2.5" Y w full 3" flow master system and 3" cutout in front of axle , msd billet dizzy, 620cfm TBI , custom CAI , tubular adjustabke LCA pan hard , umi torque arm wonder bar , BMR trans cross member , COMP engineering SFC's, disc rear w 4.10's, drilled an slotted rotors, EBL flash , VRFPR, WBO2,

 

YUP

 

Typically they are used on the 12v in to a radio, to eliminate alternator whine(noise).

Im pretty sure if I connect it to the MS 12v, it may just do away with the resets, there is alternator whine in the speakers when the radio is on now that I think about it. Its been off the whole install and tuning.

 

Cool, Ill put a couple bucks in my account and order one tomorrow. Ill still datalog and tune for now though.

 

try unplugging the alternator first before u order one

 

Well im ordering at least one for the radio anyway, but tomorrow Ill take it out with it unplugged and see what happens.

Let me know when you have a chance to look that stuff over

 

It was quieter than I expected even without a muffler. I welded the exhaust up to where the original catcon was and ended up leaving it there. It did sound a bit diesel-ish compared to other turbos I tried but it was pretty entertaining for the first couple months. Started to get a little annoying after that but a muffler would take care of that. Exhaust note was nice aside from that.

 

Good to know, i have a thrush welded series muffler welded to the old flange the cat was on, reused that flange and put the muffler where the cat was with about 12inches of pipe to the outlet right off the muffler.

I may add about a foot and a half of pipe to put the outlet parallel to the driveshaft, but ill see how it sounds first.

 

I ran no muffler all last season. It wasent terribly loud but got innoying realy fast..but it did sound nice. It was those highway cruises that were down right loud exspecially doing 70mph with 3.73s

 

Exactly. Its not bad till i hop on I75 and do 85, lol. Its hard to talk in the car with my current setup, which is why i want to add some pipe to move the outlet a little further back. I was thinking about a resonator after the muffler but thats a maybe.

I think some added pipe plus the turbo will put the exhaust sound close to where i want it. Right now at low idle cruise it rumbles with bass, when i get to high rpms i know people look, its that loud, and sounds insane inside the car.

Ill try to get an idle video, and maybe a flyby and post it. All i got is a phone for video so itll be kinda crappy, lol.

 

My Boss noise suppressor should be here monday, i ordered a good one for the MS power line and a knock off for my stereo.

If all goes according to plan ill be starting the turbo install this coming weekend

Update coming soon

 

Wait... Noise suppressor? As i a little black box with an inductor and capacitor inside?

Why wouldn't actually solve the problem instead of putting useless bandaids on the situation?

What makes you believe that a "noise suppressor" is needed?

 

Noisy alternator. Its not a bandaid, its a solution. The alternator has less than 1000 miles on it so its pretty much brand new and replacing it is out of the question.

Noise in the 12v line is causing resets, a quality noise suppressor does exactly what the name suggests, which will solve the problem that I am currently having.

I have done some extensive reading on the msextra forums and have concluded that the ms1 processor along with the v3.0 board, when put together are more susceptible to noise than say an ms2 on the 3.0 board, etc...

Everyone who has swapped the ms1 cpu with a ms2 cpu, resets and noise are gone, so my conclusion is that the MS1 processor is HIGHLY sensitive to noise, and i am not quite ready to swap an ms2 cpu yet.

The noise existed with the stock computer and I have never had problems with noise, aside from the whine in the speakers coming from the alternator. Noise is a fact of life for some of these cars, mine has had that whine since I bought it. Replaced the battery and alternator and it didnt go away. Tried just about everything BUT a noise supressor.

Simple fact of the matter is, I bought the suppressor thats sold to do what it does, which so happens to be what I need it for; to call it a bandaid is nonsense, its a fix when all else has been ruled out.

Kinda like saying sunglasses are a bandaid. Whats the fix, stay out of the sun? Get my point? I understand what you are saying but electrical noise is a fact of life, and in some cases no matter what you do, you cant get rid of it.