I figured as much, I just wanted to get a handle on tuning NA before I tried tuning boosted. I'm pretty sure I have the basics down, just havent messed with spark or anything of the like.

I was just trying to get some fuel efficiency, to see what the motor likes and doesnt.

Can't thank you enough Dave!

 

FYI, the megatune locking up issue is solved as well. In XP the power management settings are set to turn off the usb ports if on battery power. I unchecked the box and now it doesnt lock up any longer.

Figured Id post that up to let everyone know what fixed it.

 

hows it running no more resets or missing?

 

Haha, funny you should ask that. My car likes calling me a liar. No resets, still misses, definately spark. I took it on a 40 mile drive and still misses while cruising. Add or take away throttle it goes away. When I go back home tuesday, ill take a 40 mile datalog.

Did a little VE tuning, shes running great but that damn misfire is still rearing its ugly little head...

I dont have that cut dizzy cap with me, but I have my tools and Im spending a couple nights at my girls house, we are going to daytona beach monday, its gonna wind up being packed cause of bikeweek.

Let me know if you have any other ideas

 

u dont have an egr leak do ya?

 

Hmm, the egr is still hooked up to the manifold and intake, just no vacuum line. Its just kinda sitting there waiting for me to put the turbo on to get rid of it. Would that really cause a problem?

Never even thought about it to be honest. Just took the solenoid and vacuum lines out and left the rest connected

 

leaking egr could cause missfires specially during lean cruise conditions
make a blockoff plate that goes between the conection hose and intake and see what ahppens

 

Ill have to do that on tuesday, welder is at home. Ill keep you updated

 

You were right Dave. Holy smokes butt dyno says I had a leak, cause it gets up and goes more than it did before, no misfires whatsoever. AFR is way more stable now too.

 

Heres the plates i made. Next order of business is wiring up the tcc before the turbo goes on. Id like to route the 12v through the stock brake switch and let the MS do the rest. Dave you wouldnt happen to have a link to the tcc wiring for MS handy would you?

 

sometimes u just have to sit back and think about everything to narrow down an issue , i knew it wasnt electrical cause u have been threw everything a few times

do the tcc after the turbo install , if u try to tune from the base i gave u and the tcc locks up ur going to have surging issues
not to mention if u accidently get the converter to lock under full boost it will destroy the converter/trans

id much rather see u wire the lockup to a toggle threw the brake pedal so it auto disengages when u come to a stop , this way when u know ur going to be getting ont he throttle u can disable it and enable only when cruising

and no ur transmission will not burn up without the tcc i dont run one in my v6 car , and my tt iroc doesnt run it eithet

 

Yea its always the small things that get overlooked when you get aggravated, lol.

Ill wait on the tcc then. Quick question though, why would it destroy the converter locking it under boost in say 3rd or 4th? I would have thought locking the tcc would be the equivalent of letting off the clutch in a manual to lock it in the gear.

Im guessing too much spin on the converter would break the vanes?

 

the clutch disc in the v6 converter is tiny , if the clutch trys to lock up when ur making a bunch of boost it will just slip the clutch till it burns it

engine will make more tq then the lockup clutch can handle

 

What would be a better converter pull off a jy 3rd gen? Something that would compliment the small turbo and still be good when I upgrade.

 

Hey bl85c, what rpm did that turbo typically start spinning at, and when did full boost come on?

 

the only cheap converter u can get is the 105$ autozone s10 converter
its what fasteddi is running


the next cheapest is the tci ssf converter that i run but they start at 500$'s

 

Ill keep that in mind. Is it safe to run seafoam with the MS map sensor? I would assume so being the engine pulls a vacuum, so none of the seafoam should reach that sensor correct?

When I did it last, I did it through the brake booster line. However when I did the plugs, I was able to glance at the top of the pistons. The back 2 were spotless, the front 4 still had carbon buildup. So doing it through the booster line only really gets the back 2 cylinders. This makes me want to do a seafoam treatment through the TB, to try and clean up the front 4 cylinders.

 

put the seafoam threw the vacume line that runs off the iac , that will get seafoam in every cyl evenly

or put the seafoam in a spray bottle and pull the plugs squirt a bunch in each cyl and let it sit then put the plugs back in

 

The converter was a Proking HD61. Not bad converter for 110 bucks after the core was turned in...lol. Mine flashed at 2700rpm without the turbo. 3100-3200 rpm with the turbo at the racetrack launching at 2800rpm. Turbo lag was almost non existant last year at the race track on the datalogs and 1.70 60 foot times proved that. But depending on your turbos threshold, your rear end and trans shape ot may still lag a little.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...rque+converter

 

Get alky injection. That'll clean those pistons up like brand new

 

Lol Ill save the alky for when I upgrade. I was amazed at the job seafoam did to be honest, the pistons looked brand new. Of course I knew the seafoam was doing a good job cause it smoked out the entire block that I live on haha.

So I guess the egr has been leaking for awhile now, I have to retune the warmup enrichment. Dave do I just zero the bin right under 160 when I swap the thermostat? Since the afr is more stable, ill have to go through the VE table again, cause it did change a little bit. Probably also explains where my gas mileage went with the stock ecm, didnt drop too far but it was a noticeable difference. Ill probably work on wiring the tcc to a switch through the brake switch today and get that 160 tstat in.

Does that 3rd wire on the tcc plug have to be connected or do I just use the 12v through the brake switch and the ground through the toggle switch?

Im also rethinking putting the iat sensor in the plenum, cause the plenum gets hot when the car is turned off after running. I know heat soaking the sensor is not the issue, but the hot intake causes a lean condition on startup until the cooler air comes in to cool down the plenum. I know all the piping will heat soak under the hood, but the plenum is the hottest part. Ill probably put it right before the TB in the charge piping.

Did you guys delete the idler pulley under the alternator and get a different belt or just redo the rear bracket for it?

 

not sur eon the tcc wiring they have a writeup in the trans section

the idle pulley i just delete and get a shorter belt

 

Originally I had wired it through the ALDL, which was a ground switch. 12v through the brake switch then to the trans, and the ground wired to the switch I think should work, cause the stock ecm switched the ground to lock it.

Ill try to retain the idle pulley but if its too much work Ill just delete it and get a smaller belt. Matter of fact, depending on the final turbo placement, I might just delete it anyway.

 

Here is some of the freebies i got. I only asked for a couple 1/2 bungs in alum and steel and this is what I got, lol.

The red hose is for the return oil, way more than i needed, 1/2 inch, 300psi, high temp. Bundle of black hoses I may or may not use, 1/4 inch, 300psi working pressure, goodyear hose. Assorted 1/2 inch npt aluminum and steel bungs, and some more assorted couplers and barbs.

Then there is the 5 foot by 4 foot sheetmetal for whatever i need it for, lol.

 

Also I know I promised pics of what I have accumulated for the setup, better late than never, right?

Here ya go!

 

Hellllzz ya parts!!!

Cool man builds coming together nicely.

I had a intercooler like that but never used it. I think I had a talon one that had a T25 running though it stock. Gen 2 talon iirc. Watch your intake temps when you do get it together. Because it wont dissipate enough btus once you get hooked on the boost and wana turn it up.

 

Two words, Daily Driver, lol. I wont turn it past 10 I promise! Plus I have that 2000cfm puller fan for the IC, which should be good till I get to around 30-40mph, then Ill have it set to shut off when I get moving.

I know Ill be addicted to it but ill be alright till I upgrade. I can't believe how much power was freed up with just the ECM swap, I'm sure Ill want more, but I also dont want to blow anything up either.

I have actually been scouring the internet to see about a temporary upgrade; A larger trim wheel, housing, and backing plate for the compressor side, Leaving the turbine side T3, but making it a hybrid T3/T4.

If I am correct, the compressor trim is 45, there is a 50 and 55 trim wheel I can upgrade to on the compressor housing, with some machining on the housing of course.

 

stuff looks good but would look alot better on the car :P

if thats an ebay fan trust me its not 2000 cfm its more like 400

u can buy a t4 wheel backing plate and compressor cover on ebay for 60-100 bucks
but honestly save the money up and just buy a gt3582

 

TBH it pulls more air then the stock rad fan, If i put 4 on an airframe I could make a quad-copter out of it, lol. It pulls an insane amount of air through it, gotta be way more than 400cfm

 

i have an ebay 14 inch fan and a single one of my factory fan moves 3 times more air , so maybe u got a good one
i gave mine to a friend and he wired into the top of his bulldozer to blow air down on him in the summer time lol

 

I'll recommend NOT using the header wrap.

It may sound like a good idea and for certain reasons it is, but on a street vehicle, especially one that will get driven in all sorts of weather, it is not a good idea. The problem is that it will hold moisture and rot the headers/exhaust pre-maturely. You're best to get the headers/exhaust ceramic coated for street car use.

 

Well that was short lived. Im about ready to give up Dave. Its misfiring and resetting again.

1637 miss, 2210 miss, 2816 miss, 4881 miss, 4989 miss, 8138 miss, 9797 miss, 11856 miss, 11935 miss, 11966-11971???, 12954 miss, 13715 miss, 13740 miss, 15897-15900???, 5 resets total, cant find them in the log.

enclosing the datalog and ready to just blow the damn thing up or sell it and everything I have bought for it. Cause this is getting absolutely ridiculous.

@six - If the header wrap is properly applied and coated with the header wrap spray, which I have, than it completely seals the headers from moisture, other than what may build up inside. Thats DEI titanium header wrap and I also got the DEI wrap coating. My friend used the same stuff and 6 years later when he re-did his piping and removed the wrap to see how it did, it held up great. Same wrap, same coating I got. Besides, the budget has been spent and I dont have anything left, so ceramic coating is out of the question.

 

ill take a look when i can , but for now dbl check ur blockoff plates , and make sure the distributor was tight enough it didnt move on its own

 

Ill double check the dizzy tomorrow and use RTV on the intake egr plate.

 

I just have to say it...

This is EXACTLY why I don't use MegaSquirt.

Carry on..

 

its not the megasquirt

rotor phasing was off the first time around and the egr leak was causing the miss
wiling to bet the distributor rotated and now the ignition is off again

 

Well the rtv has had a full day and a half to cure, but ill replace that with a rubber gasket when the turbo goes on. I tried to really tweak the dizzy with 2 hands and it didnt budge at all. Ill take it out in a little bit and get a log and see how she does.

Currently i am troubleshooting a failsafe mode in a 01m auto trans in my girls vw cabrio, man i hate her car more than i hate mine right now, lol.


I told her to just let me drop a 3100 and trans in, squirt it and be done with the vw crap haha, german engineering sucks

 

Alright, as far as I can tell, its gone *knock on wood*

In the datalog I only see one glitch, and it was only a quick RPM spike, nothing else spiked with it. And I ran it HARD. No reset, no miss so far. So I am definately going to make a gasket for the block off plate out of some thick gasket maker material I have.

At this point, next step is the turbo install

@Six, it was never the Megasquirt to begin with, so you didn't have to say anything. All you had to do was read what you missed in the thread to know it had nothing to do with the MS. I know we have our differences, but you are a valuable asset to this community and I do appreciate your input. And I will admit, at one point I thought it was the MS too.

Here is a datalog.

 

im dont rember did u make ur own harness or use one from diyautotune

im wondering if maybe u have a bad connection and when u mess with the distributor or egr areas if ur not just moving a wire around which is solving the issue


the miss i know is from the egr

asnyways might be something to look at if the reset or miss issue comes back

 

I bought the 12ft harness and re-used the sensor pigtails. Only wires I left alone were headlights and all the stock power wires.

I do know I broke the lock tab off of the 4wire dizzy connector so If it happens again Ill pull a good connector from the other harness I have. AFAIK I have gone through ALL the wires and made sure they were good.

Now if I could just get the AE a DE tuned, Im having trouble with it cause Im not really sure where to make changes. I may try the tps or map AE, cause I changed things in the rpm based and it didnt really change anything, still leans out on throttle stabs.

 

TCC wiring is done and working. 12V through brake switch, ground through a rocker switch. Conveniently run through the grommet with the shifter linkage.

All seems well, though I am trying to figure out why she doesnt like to start when warm. I stopped to get gas and when I tried to fire her back up, she went lean and stalled, took like 4 tries and a little gas pedal to get it started.

There also seems to be a lean hole in the VE where there wasnt one before, I had to richen it up and now it looks like a big hill in the VE tuning screen.

 

did u 0 the 160 table, and are also driving around with the converter locked now?


post up the tune ill take a look i have a good idea of whats going on

 

I took it out for a ride and on my way back ill datalog and pull over and turn it off so i can replicate the startup for you when hot. Yes im using the converter in 3rd and 4th, makes a big difference in 4th cruising on floridas highways.

It still has the 180 in it, i dont know why I haven't put the 160 in yet.. now ill have to do the VE again, lol. I know every motor is different, even if they are the same, but what rpm based AE/DE settings did you eventually use? I seem to be having a cant put 2 and 2 together moment with that part of the tuning to be honest.

 

Heres that datalog, It didnt stall when I started back up, but you can see whats going on I bet.

30 miles or so. Got on it a couple times, Really got on it once, lol.

I forgot to pull the tune, I'll grab it in a few

 

Heres the tune

 

Quick question. For the intake; would it be a bad idea to mount the air filter in open air, underneath the intercooler, fan and scoop? Would it pull hot air or would it be good?

I was thinking of extending the scoop from the bottom of the intercooler, to separate the air filter from the engine bay air.

 

just grabbed the tune and datalog ill go over those now , mount the airfilter in the bottom of the fender , u just drill out the pan were the charcol can was sitting if u dont run the charge pipe threw that area theres tons of room to put the air filter there which keeps it out of the engine bay

 

just what i thought , the air temps are going up when u stop and shut the car off , in that short time u shut the car off iats jumped 10* and then didnt start comming down t ill after u were moving , the hotter the air gets the more the ecm leans out the motor , right now its pulling a lil to much fuel

theres an iat correction table but u dont want to mess with it till after u have the turbo on

 

Yup, thats what I thought was going on, after I stopped I turned the key on and watched coolant and air temp heatsoak.

I guess its hard to explain what I wanted to do with the intake without some pictures. You know the ram air intake with the dual snorkel? The one with hvac rectangular duct. Since i was going to do a TMIC i was tthinking about running a piece of hvac duct, or something like that, from the bottom of the IC, with a notch in it for the air filter.

Once the IC and everything is in, then I could probably counteract the heatsoak by running that ic fan before I crank the car. I was just trying to lessen the amount of tubing for the intake

 

Currently there is a 5inch duct run from a scoop in the left grille, to the bottom of the old battery tray and the filter sits right above it.