So I think if I can find a way to run the downpipe on the passenger side I may stick to that. Might take some massaging of the heater lines to get them up onto the frame rail. If I can do that I might have just enough room for the downpipe which is where I want to run it.

So i will probably go a little up and towards the drivers side with the flange, Then all I would need is a smaller belt and I would get rid of the idler pulley.

The less modification the better.

 

the bike is great , need to order a set of pipes for it ( its way to quiet ) and need to find somone in the area who can tune it and remove the speed limiter

the rear plate /brakelight/turn signal housing needs to go as well it just doesnt fit the bike looks wise


willie go out and to the passenger side like i did on pilsburys car

 

Just get the undertail kit or mod it yourself. Whats the speed limiter set at?

Im gonna try to get it out that side, ill take a pic of whats on the passenger side. The log headers from Chris come out from the head further than Marks log headers did.

I picked up a couple pieces of pipe so I can redo the drivers side rear primary, then ill move the flange a little bit further out and up. For right now I have everything I need but the oil feed line, 3/16 air line ok to use for that? Having a problem finding anything smaller than that.

Got all my fittings and such, im welding a 1/2 bung to the return plate so I can just screw in the 1/2 inch barbs I got. I am also going to tap the oil in plate to fit an adaptor to run the barb I got for it.

Other then that its coming together slowly, but its coming together none the less.

 

This is the same size 2 1/2 inch pipe im using for the downpipe. You can see how tight it is and I need to get those heater lines up onto the frame rail in order to fit the downpipe in there, even then its still tight.

 

I know how tight it can be. That's what kept me from doing that type of route before. But this is a 3 inch down pipe in this pic of my set up now.

There is actually a gap between the v band and the header, but in the right pic its no mounted to the turbo its just laying there so that's why it looks so close and looks like its literly riding on it..lol

 

With how far out these log headers are, id probably have to dent them to run a 3 inch downpipe, haha

 

Hey Dave, I may have to pass on that hood, i need to buy a waterpump and a couple other things when I scrap that steel my friend is dropping off. Ill let you know in a couple days

 

Well gapped the r42s to .026 and got them in. Got the 160 hypertech tstat in. Went out and picked up a couple pieces of 1 1/2 pipe to fix that drivers side rear primary. Just gotta stop being lazy and drill out the bolt holes to the next size so i can see if they will all bolt in. Then cut and weld that mis-matched primary, reposition the flange forward, up and more towards the drivers side to make room for the downpipe 90° off the turbo.

Still trying to figure a way to move those heater hoses. Have to hack up the ac box to do it though. Good thing the heater hoses right there are metal, wont have to worry about them melting with the downpipe right there. Plus the DP will be wrapped in the engine compartment. Any pointers for that ac box without spending money?

Also got that breather filter in the passenger side valve cover; had to hack up the rubber elbow cause the rubber thing on the breather was too small for the hole.

Slow going and not really sure if you could call that progress, lol

 

I wish I could offer tips on the ac coil/ blower assembly, but as you can see my car has no heat or ac... who needs that?

 

u shouldnt have to hack up the heater/ac box we did pilsburys car and it still has ac/heat we didnt have to do anything but bend one line away from the downpipe

or is it the crossover thats hitting the heater box?


does the ac even work in ur car ? if not a non ac box out of an s10 or g van fitts

 

Well i would just get rid of the heat but it would be easier just to move the 2 hard lines. I dont have ac, just the box is left and i need to i guess break the plastic on the bottom to tuck the heater lines under it. Basically i need to move the heater lines from alongside the framerail to the top.

Funny, i live in florida and i ditched the ac and kept the heat, lol. But i can handle the heat and hate the cold, i was born in june lol.

 

another thing u can do is bypass the heater control valve , so u have less plumbing to deal with , then u just hook up the heater core to the pump and intake ports

the downside is that u always have hot water/coolant circuating threw the heater core

u can however drill 4 1/8 in holes arounf the t stat , and then put a ball valve in on of the heater core lines to shut off the flow of water to it for the summer

but if u do that u have to have the holes drilled in the t stat so water can circlate a lil bit when the stat is closed

thats what the heater control valve does when u dont have it on heat , it sends the water in a loop past the t stat

 

The downpipe will be close to the ac box, but without moving the heater lines they are in the way of the downpipe.

Im gonna bend them up onto the frame rail and thatll make enough room for the downpipe.

I need to pick up another 2 1/2 inch vband for the downpipe so i can take it out and wrap it once its welded, the way it needs to go i would never be able to get it out once its welded.

And no i dont have ac, and ill have limited funds once i scrap that steel. Unless someone wants to donate an ac delete panel, lol. I could probably make one but i want to keep the vents at the least.

 

That wouldnt be so bad, the flapper would be closed if it wasnt on hot/heat so it wouldnt be any hotter in the passenger compartment.

 

yeah nd then u can run 2 rubber hoses from the pump/manifold over the valve cover right to the heater core and it gets the rest of the stuf fout of the way

 

True, woulda needed this morning though lol.

What do I do with that funky bent hardline just cap it? I did the throttlebody bypass, just route the smaller waterpump outlet to the line coming into the heater bypass?

 

Lol more money i dont have. Ill just bend the lines, thats free..

 

What is your zip code?

 

33597

 

I have one I am not using anymore, just pay shipping and its yours. Comes with the cover, blower motor, resistor, and wiring. You'll retain all four speeds. You'll want a heater/defroster for those chilly track nights and mornings. Here is an old thread I started for it...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...-c-delete.html

 

Dude you rock! Ill let you know, pm me the shipping cost when you get a chance

 

No problem, it's honestly just taking up space. I'll PM the shipping...

 

rob while ur digging threw all ur old stuff im still in need of a shifter and cable :P

 

I would assume the crankshaft is in the way of taking the pan off with the motor in the car? Well and the kmember. Just wondering.

 

no its not , if u unbolt the pan and put the crank in the right position the pan will slide out till it hits , then u rotate the crank som emore and it will slide all the way out .


or u can take the 2 engine mount bolts off and put a jack with a block of wood under the crank pulley and jack the engine up a bit , just make sure u take the distributor cap off first or it will hit the firewall

 

Good tips Dave, just gotta mark where I want to put that bung before I take it off. Itll be way easier with the pan off.

 

Btw, im just gonna delete the heater hoses and bypass for now and just loop the pump outlet to the bypass inlet.

And sorry Chris, im having a very hard time believing you welded these up on heads. I had to drill out the bolt holes to get more than 2 bolts into the head. And with the one port half an inch off, theres no way. I have to modify the hell out of these just to get them to bolt up.

Modifying is the nature of the beast but all you had to say was they may need some modification. Sure moving some stuff around the engine bay is fine, but i was under the impression these were bolt on and go. Not the case.

 

In other news, heres how Im gonna fix that primary.

 

got a torch to heat it with and bend it ?

 

Cut and weld, not gonna risk cracking it. Besides, it still wouldnt line up and i would need 3 gaskets just to close the gap.

Also just found out i was an inch away from losing my power steering bracket. Huge crack across the whole bracket. Either going to weld it, or go pull one from a junkyard. I dont really want to weld it cause its already been welded once.

 

do u have an angle grinder , u can cut into the tubing but not all the way threw so u can bend the primary make 2 cuts about an inch apart on oposite sides theis will alow u to bend and stretch the primary into place and then weld it back up

 

Cut it, add a section of 1 1/2 inch that you know it needs and weld it. So much faster to just reweld the pipe with a new addition then to fill gaps..imo

 

Like this? Lol

 

Perfect

 

Done with that part. Next is the flange relocation.

 

Almost cant tell, lol. I drilled out the holes on the passenger side and now all those bolts go in. Drivers side im currently running a tap through the head to clean up the threads. Sprayed the drivers side with header coating, once the dries ill wrap it and coat it and make sure the bolts go in, if not ill drill those flanges to the next size.

Making progress, shouldnt be very long now, I estimate hopefully a week for startup. We will see.

 

btw the header paint will burn off unless u cure it , they need to be thrown in an oven or slowly heated and let cool somehow

 

We have an electric stove we use for powdercoating. The dei spray says to bake at 400 to cure so ill bake them all together when i wrap the passenger side and downpipe. Need to get a 2 1/2 vband for the downpipe though so i can make it removable.

 

Will, PM me your full address...

Dave, lemme see what I have left, cuz I gave Ted a lot of stuff last year...

 

Pm sent

 

Well at this point Im waiting on funds to pick up some 2 1/2 inch or 2 3/4 pipe for the downpipe. I dont want to go 3 inch just yet. The exhaust pipe I had wasnt 2 1/2 inch, it was a hair under 2 1/4 OD. So it will work for fixing the flange position on the log headers, but thats about it.

So we wait, shouldnt be long. Ill get started on that flange soon.

 

Lol. Got a speeding ticket tonight. In the honda, 73 in a 55. And I am putting a turbo on my car; great, lol.

First speeding ticket in 4 years.

Thankfully I just got calls to change shocks and struts in my friends truck, and just got a small job. Removable Ipad in a 91 suburban dash. Thinking about glassing in a dock/mount, and wiring it up switched with a trickle charge, though he wont really need it. That and wiring it into the head unit for audio/video.

Shouldnt be too bad. Itll pay the speeding ticket and give me the funds to finish up the turbo install.

 

Couple teaser pics. Working on relocating the flange, got lucky and started blind cutting angles and got 2 pieces with a perfect fit. They put the flange right where I wanted it. Better angle on the oil drain and higher location for the turbo. Also leaves more room for the downpipe. So that solves that I just gotta tac them, make sure its right, weld, coat, wrap, coat and cure and I can install the headers fully and the turbo.

Once thats taken care of I can pretty much do everything but the downpipe till I get funds for more pipe.

Also got the heater valve bypass issue solved by reusing the hose that goes from the water pump to the hard heater line.

 

to clean that up a lil bit u can remove the fitting from the manifold and screw a regular pipe fitting in its place so u dont have to have that huge loop in the hose

 

Well its shorter than the stock loop! Lol. Ill dig around my shop to see if I have one.

 

Finally got started on the relocation of the t3 flange. Placement of the turbo is about as good as it can get. The way it sits allows me to route everything the way I wanted to without having to relocate stuff. Need to pick up a different top rad hose as its in the way of the outlet.

More to come

 

Stupid f-ing internet

 

wow that turbo looks so friggen tiny , prolly the same size as the engine in the toyota tercell i ust bought.
i can rev the thing to redline and dump the clutch in 1st and it wont even chirp the tires.
but with it getting killer gas milage i dont mind

 

1 more, welded and coated.
The mobile app is being retarded, so dont mind the 3 of the same pics

 

Cool looking good. Turbo does seem tiny... nothing like a t25 though.lol Heres a t25 when i was fabbing up my system for the first time about 2 1/2 years ago. It was just for the piping placement as I was poor and couldnt even afford the real turbo yet that i was going to use..lmao That lil t25 was just a metal blow dryer..lol That what I think of those little guys...