Yup. Just got off the phone with Dana. He confirmed something for me. If you use anything in the transmission to swell seals, you pretty much have to drain that fluid shortly afterwards because the seals keep swelling and go pop, and no more transmission. That explains why I got 180k more miles out of my trans after I bought the car. Fluid change with lucas trans fix, then shortly after another fluid change and

At any rate, parts are ordered.

 

willie i will take pictures for u this weekend , the 700 is going back in my iroc so i can get rid of the th400 , ill be installing the 500 boost .296 low rev , transgo r kit and a few other parts


i didnt buy a servo though

ill take pictures so u can see whats involved

 

The servo is fairly straight forward, I would mainly be interested in the boost valves installation.

Lets see if I remember this correctly, one goes in the pump and one goes in the valvebody? I watched a few videos a couple months ago.

Thanks Dave.

In case anyone is wondering, I bought part #700 662, vette servo and boost valves. Its a good deal.

 

Believe me it is very easy to install. You changing these parts on a trans that's no in the car right? I installed it on a trans that was not in the car and it only took 20 minuets or so to install the parts. Iirc there are directions that came with the parts. Follow them and you'll be okay.

 

i should prolyl do mine on the bench but all the work benches are currently filled so ill be doing mine in the car after i install it tommorow

the hard part about doing it in the car is orienting the drawings the right way for check ball placement

 

Lol. Tape it to the bottom of the car. I'll be doing them on a raised workbench. I would use the welding table but it has a riding mower engine dissasembled on it. Aluminum block got ate up by the steel crankshaft. Damned if the piston isnt close to the same size as the 2.8 haha.

 

And begin.

 

Got the trans on the stand getting ready to put the goodies in.

 

Getting started. Pans clean, insides clean, fluid is fresh, no clutch material in the pan. Looking good so far.

 

Oh yea.. i remember those days.

 

Lol, told you it was good. But I wouldn't be surprised it had some kind of issue.

 

Took a little less than an hour taking my time. Just waiting to pull mine for the modified throttle valve, shifter assembly, pan and tv cable.

 

I'm really hoping to have mine done so I can come out this weekend and help.

 

I hope so man, next couple days should be rain free.

I'm thinking about just modifying the tv sleeve in this trans instead of swapping mine over. Then all I have to swap is the shifter stuff and tail shaft.

I was going to make a little mini tutorial on swapping the boost valves and servo but I forgot to take pics of all the steps when doing the servo, lol. But I will throw some of the pics up here.

Ok, so I know about boost valve in the pan syndrome, does that snap ring look completely seated in the last pic? All the other pics are pretty much self explanatory. Having never been inside a trans before but to do the tv sleeve mod, I was pretty comfortable doing these boost valves and servo.

Eazy peazy.

 

sorry man we never got to my tansmission over the weekend , one of the farm trusk used for feeding cattle broke down and its been on the lift waiting for parts .

 

The snap ring looks to be in the correct location and seated. It is a little tough to tell as there is a reflection of the ring in the bore. But the photo does clearly show the step in the bore that trips folks up.

RBob.

 

No biggie, as I said, it wasn't too bad.

 

Awesome. Yea I saw when I first got it seated the snap ring wasnt fully open, so I took a screw driver and lightly tapped it till it seated.

 

Lol, wait till we actually pull your trans, talk about a nightmare. Should be kinda quick since I'll have my Snap-On power tools with me.

 

Well I have a motorcycle/transmission jack and I would assume itll be a little easier if we let the rear hang to take the tension off. Then I gather its remove the torque arm and driveshaft, get the jack under the trans, remove the mount, tv cable, then bolts and pull it out. More or less no?

 

Pretty much, I just unbolt the cross member from the body and leave it on the trans.

Its easier to let the trans down some to get to the top two bolts of the bell housing, but you still have to go from the back of the trans with extensions to reach them, unless you wanna pull your dizzy.

 

I wish I lived close. Id have a trans out in 45min tops and re installed in the same. You really dont wana know how many times Ive taken a trans out of my car. But then again your trans hasent been out a lot so the bolts may be a little stubbern

Using a combined 3ft extension and a wobbler works best for those housing bolts on the trans. The top 2 bolts can be taken out from above with a wrench and socket wrench but if you have alot of wires and stuff jamed there then it wont be as easy. Ive always done the top 2 from above. But I did remove the dizzy.

Also make sure you are very careful with the vss wire harness, the TCC harness, and the TV cable. And also drain as much fluid out as you can. Loosen up the pan in spots and get a few qts of fluid out of it. When you take the fill pipe out and start taking the trans out fluid will be coming out like crazy and can make a disaster if its full.

The back tq arm bolts are a pita to get loose when it is the first time they've been broke loose in 20+ years.

 

I've done the same. Those bolts are a nightmare with a ratchet, but when I did them with my Snap-On Impact it was cake.

 

Well I dont have to worry about the vss, just the speedo cable. I have never had the trans out of my car, lol. The TV cable I know can get messed up real easy. Itll be a learning process for me but I just pulled that big block out which was connected to a 4wd trans and transfer case. So this shouldnt be too bad.

 

Un hook the TV cable from the intake completely and let it come out with the trans. Makes it much easier to put in the new trans.

 

Yea I was going to make sure I do that, lol.

Of course now I cant find my extra filter, lol

 

Lololol. The filter in that one should have been fine. But I don't remember.

 

It had a few leaves in it, lol. I might backwash it with some brake cleaner and put some orings on the filter cause I kinda buggered the sealing ring.

 

No surprise. I have leaves everywhere on my car, they are like the plague.

 

Love it when you break the transmission filter putting it in by hand. Chinesium parts ftw.

 

Stuff a sock in it.

 

Lol. I'd like it to live until I can do a full rebuild on mine. I am just gonna save up for the heavy duty rebuild kit and rollerize it. I am going once and done on the rebuild. It'll probably never see over 600hp.

 

So two of these,



Just happen to work for this,

 

Damn shaky wifi

 

Lets play identify the torque converter!

Was behind a 3.4. No idea.

 

Hell yea! Heres what converter it is.

* TC-GM61CWHD * * * Torque converter, 4L60-700R4tc 10" (Lock-Up)
Codes: HBFD, (PWM w/ ECCC) Woven Carbon
Diameter - 10”, 245mm DIA. , PILOT - .825”, Mount - 3 Pads, Splines - 27
Notes - High Stall (2350-2795)

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.co...E-4L65Etc.html

If it is it should be **** with this turbo

 

I had no idea that was on there. LOL Glad I had something of use for you.

 

That's the same tc I have. It'll make it fun. Sometimes I wonder if the manufacturer knows the tc is capable of holding up to 400+ hp and 11 second 1/4 miles/1.6x 60 ft times.

Don't get me wrong that tc is cheep and you will be loosing alot of hp with it but for a low cost tc it is much much better then stock and flashes nicely.

 

Thats awesome cause it was the tc I was going to get. As soon as I saw the color I thought thats what it was. I also said to myself I couldn't get that lucky.

Sucks I gotta be easy on it with this trans, lol.

Does it have a larger/stronger clutch than stock?

 

So the next time I go out to a jy for a knock sensor, I am going to keep an eye out for a sport/economy button out of a bmw or volvo, because I have decided to do dual tables. So I can tune the economy tune while I have to be easy on this trans. Then when I rebuild my trans, I can resume tuning on the power tune. I'll mount the sport/econ button where the stock defrost switch would be.

 

You can find those on 80-90 Mercedes cars too. I might have one actually.

 

Lol, I don't know how my car would handle having more than one part from a Mercedes on it, rofl.

Where would the knock sensor be located on the 3.4? Also where would I put it on the 2.8? I would assume it would be best to put it in the same spot as it would be on the 3.4, but the 2.8 would probably have to be drilled and tapped correct?

Also, I don't see why I couldn't do this but I will ask for clarification anyway. So say I get the dual tables setup. Can I grab a GM electronic boost controller, turn the stock wastegate down to 6psi, then have the boost controller not bleed pressure to run 6psi on the economy tune, then when I hit the switch to power tune, have the boost controller bleed pressure off to run 12 psi.

In short, can I do this? 6psi on economy and 12 psi on the power tune? Can I setup the MS to automatically switch the boost controller when I flip the sport/econ switch?

 

Lol, I'll try to dig that switch up and bring it Sunday

 

I might not need it if this BMW has one. Have this inline 6, 3 series BMW, either late 90s or early 2000s that I just got the ok to part out.

Its got a blown head gasket and possibly a blown timing set. I cant decide if I want the headlights to swap into the camaro, and the power leather seats, lol. And it has 17s on it.

 

Motor is screwed. Not worth to fix it.

 

Mark, I noticed your converter is non pwm lockup and mine is pwm lockup with eccc(whatever that is), is mine going to lockup?

 

dont lock the converter u dont need it

its a myth that if u dont lock the converter u will burn up the trans

 

This. I have never had a converter go into lockup, and I haven't had one issue.

 

Thats not what I am worried about. I will have a locking converter at one point, so I am trying to figure out what needs to be done, if anything, to lock a pwm TCC with a non pwm trans.

I would rather have the on/off clutch apply than the soccer mom clutch apply.

Also, RubberD, this is why this converter never locked up for you.

 

Even the original one in my original trans never locked up.