Well add another month till I get my license back, don't have enough money to cover the reinstatement and renewal fees.

 

Been awhile guys. Im currently working on installing the copper line for the oil feed I picked up. Had a question though. The members following this thread probably know about the oiling issues I went through, but I will post a quick rundown for those who haven't read the whole thread because I know its long as hell.

Too much oil flow to the turbo was causing constant oil drain line leaks; coupled with having too small of an oil drain line. So it was recommended that I pick up a .063 feed line restrictor. At the same time I increased the ID of the drain line to 3/4 inch. Also picked up a brand new drain flange for the turbo. All leaking and over oiling problems were solved.

Well after all that I started getting leaks by the oil filter where my feed line tap was. So I said **** it, I will go hard line cause that'll be real hard to melt.

Now the question.

How much oil is acceptable in the charge pipe just after the intercooler? There is no smoke when I get on it, but I am sure the seals have started to go after all the oiling problems I had. There was way too much oil going into the cartridge without the restrictor, proven by starting the car without the drain line connected.

There is also no oil seeping on the bottom of either housing, just a bit right after the intercooler. So how much is too much? I know it'll probably need a rebuild just for the seals, there is no shaft play, but its also not tight as a virgin.

 

For those interested, this is the final product,












You can see the finished hardline connected to the turbo. I will hop onto the laptop in a little bit and update the table of contents.

Videos incoming as soon as I get my license back

Edit - Yes that is a battery box I am using to seal the air filter from the engine bay; it just happened to be the right size once I cut the top off. I am going to make a bracket to hold it down and do away with the bungee cords to hold it down, lol. Rough but a quick solution.

 

I NEVER use copper line in a car, especially when it comes to oil. It work hardens from heating and cooling, which can lead to a failure.

I do use hard line however, but I use steel, like brake line. I just plumbed my turbo in my 240, using 1/4" brake line.

 

Yes I have read all about that but being the copper line to my mechanical oil pressure gauge has been there since 2008 with no problems I am sure the much thicker industrial copper line will do just fine until I get steel.

Old school hot rods and motorcycles have been using copper lines for 40+ years as well without problems. The line cannot be tight or forced once bent into shape, and its best to either use clamps to fasten it, a loop to absorb vibration, or a small section of rubber line in the middle.

The work hardening isn't normally the failure; its the vibrations after the copper becomes harder and brittle that causes the failure.

 

I'm a hvac guy...I don't like copper to much. I love ammonia systems so much for the fact that you cant use copper. But for what your doing it should be ok. Do you know the type of copper u used? K, l, m?? Acr?

 

I should have used K or L but I used refrigeration copper good for LP and compressed air. They didn't have K or L in 1/4 OD and if im not mistaken the sizes on those are a bit different. I plan on going over to steel but the copper should do for now. Double flared on both connections as well.

I also know that the copper can degrade the oil but when I do oil changes every 2500 miles I don't think it'll be a problem.

 

if u want a foolproof feed line 3/16th brake line works great , they sell adapters that are pipe on one side and the brake line will screw into te other side

almost forgot no need for restictor with 3/16's line

 

So I just located these maps for my specific turbo at 15PSI. First one is the 45 trim wheel, second is a 60 trim wheel. I think I either have the 45 or 55, betting on having the 45. I cant really find a good answer on this turbo.

After looking at those maps, the 60trim is way more efficient than the 45, So for the time being I am looking at picking up a 60 trim wheel, get the housing machined for the 60 trim wheel, and heavily porting the wastegate port. Porting the wastegate will keep it from choking and the 60 trim won't over-spin the exhaust turbine. The 60 trim wheel is a common upgrade for these turbos, with no problems reported.

This will net me a cooler charge, and a more efficient turbo. It will spool just as fast as before with maybe slightly more lag, but a tiny difference I won't even be able to feel. I will still run the same 10PSI with the 60 trim.

I think that upgrade will hold me over long enough to get some money up to do the hybrid build, and when I do that, I will go with a t3/t4 at the same time.

Edit - Maps are at 4000-4500 RPMs

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCC-A-R-60-AIRESEARCH-TO4-TURBOCHARGER-COMPRESSOR-HOUSING-/321422122397?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ad6405d9d&vxp=mtr

 

or for a lil more money
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T04E-T3-T4-63-A-R-57-TRIM-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-COMPRESSOR-400-HP-BOOST-STAGE-III-/190627430922?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6247c20a&vxp=mtr

but ur current turbo housing cant be bored for a t4 wheel, its not big enough

is the turbo u have even a garrett t3? i thought it was an ihi or something

 

Yea its a Garrett, technically its an AIResearch but thats Garrett anyway. The 60 trim is a t3 wheel in that compressor map. Im sticking with the T3 until I get around to the hybrid build. Hybrid turbo for a hybrid motor lol

Edit-The t4 housing won't clear the water pump pulley the way its currently mounted. These turbos have been machined for the 60 trim wheel before so its got enough meat on it to get it machined. Found a 60 trim for $55, just have to find out what tractor supply will charge for machining the housing and balancing with the new wheel. Also going to get a rebuild kit cause there is a little bit of oil after the intercooler, the seals aren't completely blown but I bet they are close cause of the oiling issues I had. Weird though; absolutely no oil before the intercooler though.

 

any t3 compressor wheel is a full on waste of money even with a bone stock 2.8.

money better spent is getting the t3/t4 50 trim and making it fit , which i belive with ur headers would be ust getting a t3 turbine flange and sticking it between the turbo and header

 

I would have to cut the flange and extend it to clear the accessories, get a wastegate and bov, bigger injectors, etc. Going to a hybrid will cost more than just the turbo any way you look at it. All I want for this car is to make the existing turbo more efficient, because this whole setup will be going into an s10 when I build the hybrid setup.

For the 2.8 yes, this is the only turbo I will use. I'm not making a racecar and the 60 trim wheel will be perfect for what I want to do. I am not modifying the setup anymore, whats on there is it. Im saving the t3/t4 for a hybrid build.

 

Dave what's wrong for him to go with a gt3582r with a .84 ar hot side and .70 cold side?

 

3582 is a lil overkill for the stock engine but would work great , i was just showing him the cheapest upgrade path possible

even a t3 60 trim @ 22psi wont make the same power as a t3/t4 at 12 psi
when comparing the t3/t4 to the gt3582
the t3/t4 at 16 psi the 3582 will make the same power at what 7/8 psi

 

I understand what you mean, but at this particular incarnation of this build I will never see over 15 psi. I am just going for the cooler charge of the t3 60 trim wheel over the 45 trim. I currently have no need for a t3/t4 or otherwise. On the 2.8 its going to be nothing more than a balanced daily driver setup. When I want to up the power I will spring for a larger turbo. For now I will be happy putting a 60 trim t3 wheel on it.

Its just what I want to do, not that I don't understand what you are trying to convey.

 

Finally buttoned up the new oil line install, but forgot to plug the air temp sensor connector back in lol. Pig rich! My eyes were burning till I plugged it back in haha.

No smoke whatsoever and no more leaks. So are the seals just seeping and not blown? I know I had way too much oil pressure without that restrictor so how likely is it that the seals are on the way out?

I will post the datalog in a few.

 

I just turned up the boost finally for the first time this year on Saturday...didn't get to race to find out but on sunday on a short trip...ill never see above 15psi either. Its dialed to 14.5 and its definitely a lil jet.

I would just think that even if he would consider a gt35 at one point, it would be a better choice. Even running 8-10 psi would be ok for its efficiency range and would keep back pressure and added heat down.

I ran 9psi in the spring of 2013 on the stock 3.1L minus cam and ported heads. 13.50 all day long. Point being that I would at least consider it one day when the time comes.

Ok in done ranting...lol im glad to hear your back at working on the beast. I just don't want you to end up with a t3/4 turbo like I had in the beginning. Dave knows the one im talking about. That thing was undersized the minute it turned up the boost to make it run a 13. Ran 14.40s though at 11psi though.

 

I totally understand man. Im glad to see anyone work on one of these beast! A car should always be what you want it to be and not what someone thinks it should.

 

the seals are fine seals in a turbo are labryinth type/ring seals , the only go bad whenthe bearings in the turbo go bad or the ring actually breaks or wears out.

even when perfect the will seep just a touch of oil, its how the seal stays lubed

 

Thats what I was thinking, just looking for confimation. It was only right after the intercooler and nowhere else. So I see what you meant about the meth injection pooling there.

A couple months ago I picked up an older 300w inverter to mount under the passenger seat for the laptop for $5. It was that cheap because the fan stopped working. So I modded the case and mounted a low profile PC fan in the case and it works great. Just gotta run fused power to the battery and run the ground to a bolt on the seat.

Since I mounted the fan on the opposite side than the other one was mounted, I reversed the flow so it would still cool the transistors. The new fan is pulling in as the old one was pulling out.

 

Having the fan blowing or out would have the same cooling effect. That being said I do prefer to have a fan blowing in when possible, since cooler air is denser, in a situation like this the difference would not likely be noticeable.

 

Yup. When I had my gaming PC it had 7 fans in it and stayed cool as ice. I didnt want it blowing out because it'll be under the seat, so it would most likely just push the hot/warm air back into the openings. Being a small inverter that will only be used for the laptop I probably don't even need the fan in it, but I put one in anyway.

 

Alright guys, got my license back today so stay tuned for updates.

First on the agenda is to get the tune squared away.
Second will be installing the inverter with a relay.
Third will be installing a laptop under the passenger seat if there is enough room, and the 7" Lilliput touchscreen (thanks Mav) under the middle dash vents, for the carputer

The laptop is going to be a permanent install, the location for the display will change down the road when I redo the cluster it will be installed as part of the cluster.

Stay tuned cause after tuning is 99% done, there will be videos inbound

 

Im ready for some vids!

 

Small update.

I took the car out to do a VE Analyze run for about 15-20 miles only allowing a max change of 5% for the cells and it brought the cruise portions right down to 14.7 afr. No knocks that I could tell, but that doesn't mean it didn't. I am waiting for it to cool off so I can check the plugs for peppering.

I just drove it like normal without getting into it and it rides pretty damn good, though I never saw 4th gear even going up to about 75mph. Usually it will shift into 4th for the first time anywhere from 65-80, every time after that it would shift right around 53mph.

Edit- Seems my speedometer housing is leaking again, so I added some fluid an I will see what happens then. Wondering if I should swap the order of the trans coolers now that I am running the 160 tstat, though it still shifted into 4th after I swapped tstats.

 

t=stat and trans cooler will have no effect on it shifting into od , check tv cable, u may have it to tight , fluid level will also stop it from going into od but usually if its that low it wont shift into 3rd either

 

Good deal, congrats! I wanna see some vids of your V6 tearing it up. Dave's V6 was always good for awesome burn outs too, I miss seeing that damn car at the track lol...

 

It was too loose by like 2-3 clicks. It shifts perfect now. I use a small screw to lock it into position, works great.

 

Thanks Rob. Drove it for a good while today using VE analyze, its gotten the afr real close to the first target table I made. Its pretty conservative. No leaner than 14.7, 13-11 under boost starting at 100kpa. Though I worked more on the cruise and regular driving areas. Didnt really get on it much at all.

I have a log but youll see It developed a post turbo exhaust leak. Specifically the vband gasket right before the WBO2. Gonna see what to do when it cools off. That and pull plugs to look for specs.

Ill post that log in a little bit.

 

loose should have made it shift early

 

The way it was set before, 1st would go till 3500 rpms on part throttle before it would shift. Only the first shift, after that it shifted fine except for 4th. Now it shifts at all the stock shift points, but 4th isnt till 53-55 mph, instead of 42-44. But thats with a stiffer tv spring and the WOT 3-4 mod. Tbh I like the 4th gear shift better in the 50mph range, 42 always felt wrong even though thats what its supposed to be.

 

grab urself a boost valve and low rev valve , should be able to get both for under 20 bucks

 

Eventually I am going to get the whole shebang and rebuild it.

 

Bleh, turbo to dp vband is leaking again. I know you arent supposed to need a gasket for vband clamps but damn. Its got like a hairs width gap between the flanges only in the back. I would love to try to resurface the one but I have nothing to do it with. Wish Remflex gasket material was thin enough to fit.

Any recommended tricks besides cutting and rewelding it?

 

copperseal

 

That was the first thing I tried before i went through 2 gaskets.

Here is another thing for you all. I thought I had a misfire, and I think I was right. Finally took the plugs out to check for peppering and the plug from cyl 6 is perfectly clean, wasnt dirty like the rest so I think 6 isnt firing at all.

 

No compression in 6, its the valve/valves. Gotta pull the intake and valve covers again and redo the lash on 6. Compression is 135 in the adjacent cylinder.

So thats why it ran so rough at idle. Man this thing is gonna be quick with all 6 cylinders, lol. Ran like a volvo for awhile there haha.

So let me run this by you, if it was the intake valve, it would cause a backfire correct? That would lead me to believe its the exhaust valve that needs to be readjusted. I will find out tomorrow when I tear it down to redo the valve lash.

 

Damn these lovebugs man! There has to be at least 100,000 of them swarming my carport while im trying to tear down my top end. I need a freakin garage.

Those of you from FL know what I mean...

 

So, in order to redo the valve lash adjustment from scratch, do I just back the nuts off in the order of the adjustment and just readjust them per the procedure?

 

Well all done with that. 140psi in every single cylinder. This thing is going to run like a beast! I need to re-load the VE table from before I started VEAL, cause it will run lean now that compression is back in cylinder 6.

Putting it all back together now, woohoo!

 

Well here is an update and a great one at that.

Idle is smooth as butter, 850 in park, 700-750 in gear. No more pig rich smell. No more stall on the first start without touching the pedal. I have already re-calibrated the TPS, and am about to have dinner to help this beer wear off so I can take it out.

Here is a log. I can't believe nobody could see on the previous logs that I was missing a whole cylinder, lol.

 

Lol, I don't know a thing about tuning cars. So I think you're missing 6 cylinders.

 

Haha, yeah I wish I had a V12 in this car, lmao

 

Wow wow wow wow wowowow WOW!

Holy crap! You all were right. This is terribly addictive. I knew the turbo was going to add power but WOW!

I took it out after getting the top end back on and squaring away that vband leak. I had some guy come flying up my a%% in a beat up pickup truck while I was doing 36 in a 35. That is the fastest I have ever seen a car disappear in my mirrors. I was doing 36 and when I looked back down I was doing 110. HOLY S*%$!!!!

Man this is great. the car runs wonderfully, Though I do need to get working on that scoop. I never let the intake temp go over 134, but it drops pretty quick when I am out of the throttle with the fan on.

It hit a downshift going into boost and damn near smoked a tire off.

VEAL is working its magic now, but I still have to tweak some stuff after getting it back on all 6 cylinders.

Here is a good sized log.

 

Proud of you man...

 

Thanks Rob. Waiting to see whats going on with your build. I guess the next time I take it out for another VEAL session I will put the camera on the dash so I can get you guys a video

So hopefully tomorrow morning when its still cool out.

 

What I wouldn't give for a RB26.

 

Agreed. And the car that goes with it.