Well got the wires taken care of. I found one that wasnt clicking onto its post on the cap so I fixed that. It could have been the misfire/spark dropout or not; still going down the rest of the list anyway.

So, cut up v8 spark plug wire holders worked GREAT. Best of all they were free.

 

Burnout vid incoming!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wvUa...ature=youtu.be

 

what bov do u have on there

 

The internal one on the turbo. TAO314 turbo or something like that. You remember, its the 300SD Mercedes turbo. I love it.

 

You need posi!! Sounds nice.

 

sounds like a cross between a greddy rs , and hks ssqv , i like it

 

psst lets race

lmfao

 

Hahahahaha, I dare you to put that on the bike. Youll run 200mph with 3psi rofl

 

the piston for the motor will drop into the turbos outlet , im building a turbo bike actually , except the turbo is much much smaller

 

Got my tires put on today. Really really like the tread pattern too. Looks like itll be phenomenal in the rain.

Ill post up a pic of the tread when I put the rims back on tomorrow.

 

Any of you ever seen a Multec do this? Looks to me like water in the gas.

 

Hey man, somebody stole your wheels.

 

Thats what I get for parking it in Orlando, lolol

 

So I paid for 320 A A tires back in Feb with mount and balance included. So they screwed up and sold my tires, so I got the same tires, but 420 A A, lol.

 

Falkens?

 

I wish I could afford Falkens, lol. Ohtsu FP6000's.

They also gave me a higher speed rating than I paid for.

98H, 1653 lbs per tire, thats enough load capacity for our 6000lb G20 van, and rated for 130mph.

 

Lol. My Falkens weren't that expensive. I think I've got $400 in all 4.

 

$325 plus tax, including a mount and balance for these

 

I liked my Falkens, good price and worked well, at least for the first season. I think they hardened up a bit over the first winter, or I just made that much more power the next year...

Next season I hope to have some Nittos to replace my bald rear Falkens.

I don't know why only the rears went bald...

 

Well the tires stay planted in the rain, no hydroplaning yet, and the dry traction was much better than I anticipated.

Also, this time of year, Rotella 15w-40 is too thick for startup. Getting a metal on metal whine only when cold, its gone when warm. So looking at a 5w maybe 10w-40 for year round. The 15w doesnt make a bit of difference in the summer, and instead of running 2 different weight oils throughout the year, Ill just stick with a 10w-40.

Also, I think it may be time for another timing set, this one has been on here about 5-6 years. Could explain the misfire as it has some play.

 

Too thick? Don't you live in florida? lmao

 

i leave my 15-40 in until it hits 20* then i switch to 10-30

 

It does get cold in Florida too Mark, lol

 

That's not cold..lol just kidding. Didn't realize it got that cold down there in the winter. I put my car up on stands soon as it's 50 degrees or colder out but then again I don't have a heater core or any heating accessories in my car anymore...

 

70* doesn't count.
It gets into the 40s and 50s, not cold enough for me.

 

Well when I have 15w in my car it doesnt like it very much at 32° out lol.

Im actually looking at going straight 0-40w all year round. No need to switch back and forth throughout the year. The heavy duty diesel Rotella has ZDDP in it, so I will stick with the Rotella diesel oil.

Mark, I put heat back in it, and its an all-weather car lol. Who cares about ac? I sure don't. If I wanted ac I would have bought a civic.

Your right, 70° doesn't count, but 25° sure as hell does!

 

25 is warm here in ohio..lol

 

Haha, I've got a WRX buddy up there we make fun of during the winter.

 

So I put in a little more afterstart enrichment around 50°, and set the AE to set MAP at 60kpa for the first 10 seconds, then the AE only runs for a total of 20 seconds, or 10 seconds after the fixed MAP setting expires.

Its just about perfect now, no pedal to start it at any temp. Turn the key and now it fires right up.

Also added a little more timing in the idle SA area, bumped the base idle from 750-850 RPMs in park. That helped starting a little but the AE is what really made the difference.

 

Looks like I will be going manual. **** the 700. Pixie dust fluid, slips in first, and randomly goes into neutral.

 

Nevermind. Ill just break the weak *** t5 too.

 

Like I told you earlier, if you are nice to a T5 and don't slam gears around you'll be fine. There's plenty of guys on here with way more power than you running T5s without issue. Just don't buy some 200k mile trans and you'll be alright till you can get something built that can handle real power.

 

Um, that's Will you're talking to Ducky, he'll slam anything around.
But like I told ya earlier, Will, find a WC from a junkyard, crack the top off while you're there to check the gear teeth, and if they're ok, then just worry about syncros, bearings and blockers. The WC t5's will do 305ft/lb of torque. It'll be fine in your ride.

 

Till I get the 60 trim wheel on. I didnt put a turbo on the car to baby it. If its gonna break under no more that 400hp/tq I dont want to waste the money.

And a manual swap? Thats alot of work to just break it. It'll just sit on stands till I get the $700+hard parts I need to rebuild my original trans.

Until then it sits and there will be no more updates.

 

AWWW C'mon!
You are no fun.
The other benefit of the t5 swap is it is light as a feather. I think it weighs all of 75lbs. I can carry it around all day. The 7004 weighs 150lbs, which is as much as I weigh (save the skinny guy jokes for later) So it's a nice diet for the car. And T5's are everywhere. if ya break it, rip out the box, put another junkyard one in, rebuild what ya wrecked. I am really looking forward to having mine.

Having only 2nd F$#%^in gear SUCKS.

 

And that's why I used a Nissan FS5R30A trans behind my 60 degree V6, even though I could have quite literally just bolted up the T5 I had on the floor... The T5 is far too weak, even the "World Class" is a POS.

 

Must be nice to have one just laying around.....

Did I mention I only have a part time job?

Manual swap - Not gonna happen.

 

Plus the weight of everything else in the manual swap. A turbo doesn't care about 75 lbs.

Having only 1st and second was still fun with the turbo, it was third that sucked lol.

 

Well, the T5 is actually from/for my Jimmy, but I might have a different plan for the trans after a recent discussion with a friend of mine. The power plant I plan on using will have a ton of torque, so I don't need all 5 gears. I was planning on removing the 1st and 2nd gears and running only 3rd, 4th and 5th.

Also the part time job thing is a bit of a cop out. I too work only part time hours, usually less than 4 hrs a week, and I go to school. If you want something bad enough you'll find a way to make it happen.

 

stpo messing with the 700's forget about the t5 cause ull spend 300+ on an aftermarket clutch to hold the tq , go buy a 2004r or turbo 350 and adapter plate

 

With the exception of the 200's out of the GN (which wont bolt up to the 60°v6 without an adaptor), the 200 is weaker, less common, and more expensive than a 700.

Sorry, the 200 has better gearing too. I have already looked into it and did my research, the 200 is not the way to go.

Sticking with my 89 700r4 core, the only reason I'm having problems is because they are STOCK. Plain and simple. If I build a 600hp capable 700, I won't have to worry about a damn thing behind a weak *** turbo 2.8. Won't even have to worry about a hybrid turbo motor.

**** the 200,
**** the T5,
I'm rebuilding my 89 700.

Not going to bother with adaptor plates, modifying this that and the other, when I have something that bolts right in. End of discussion.

 

200 out of an ss monte , even built the v6 700 wont live unless u spend alot of money on it , been there done that wont do it again, adapter plate takes all of 30 mins to install

 

Nothing wrong with adapter plates. I'm running one that took me a few hours to make, probably a total of 8 hours from concept to finish.

 

I am not buying another transmission. Period.

What part of that don't you understand?

Six, the turbo build is completed, lock the ****ing thread.

 

Bullshit. Mark is running 11s.

 

Will, you truly have reached the level that I reached, and maybe now you can understand why I wanted my thread locked too. It just reached a point in which you feel you lose control of the build, and we go from sharing with everyone to arguing with everyone in no time. Stay focused though, everything will work out in time, and be patient. I responded to your PM, and am always here if you need any help down the road bro...

 

I hear ya Rob, now I do know how you feel. Its my build, but you know how the internet forums are. Everyones an expert.

 

I'm in expert in jiggawatts.

 

Who's arguing? I'm certainly not, just stating facts that people may not be aware of. If you don't want to contribute to/continue the thread, it's easy, don't reply. *shrug*

On the subject of adapter plates, it seems that Will has some sort of stigma attached to using one, and there's definitely nothing wrong with using one, when it's designed with precision and strong enough to take the forces so that it doesn't flex.

I've also never understood why anyone would suggest that they "lose control of the build", it's your car, build it as you wish, but don't get all freaking pissy because people are making suggestions to try and help you, in either repairing your car, or helping you get to a higher level, because that's just, well.. rude, to put it politely. If the build gets beyond your control, it's your own doing for not doing the research, or planning well enough, not from other people trying to help. I get people frequently suggest I change this or that, or question why I installed the engine I did, I then either show them why I went that way (usually involves them seeing my tail lights), or just ignore their "advice". It's not hard to be polite about it, or maybe, just maybe, there's a tidbit of information in there that is actually useful, and while I may not do something exactly as it was suggested, it leads me to a different solution or change.

 

And he knows it's the weak link, that will be the next to let go. Just because one person has been able to make a 700R4 live with a small investment in parts does not mean that all 700R4s will do the same. Most, in fact, die horrible deaths before getting to where Mark is. I've seen this a few times, there's always exceptions to rules, that should be viewed as that, exceptions and not the standard. Most people have to invest thousands into the 700R4 to make it last under harsh conditions. A 700R4 can live under some harsh conditions, yes, but it's usually not cheap, and it's not the norm.