i forget what ur header looks like but more then likley ur better of just using allen head bolts alot of time studs or bolts are a pain in the *** and hit the tubes
u can get allen head bolts with small diameter heads that are easy to tighten up

 

Thats what I have, and after tightening them once a week, 2 are gone......

I want studs.

 

do u have lock washers under them? if not try some, if u do have lock washers under them try star washers and they should stop backing out

nuts and studs are just as prone to backing off as well

 

I have tried every trick and they still back out weekly.

Wish I could find a set of the Breslin split-lock header bolts. Anyone use the Percy's vibe-locks?

 

I just use flanged bolts on mine and never have problems with them backing off. *shrug*

Make sure your header flanges are flat against the head, and that they are flat themselves.

 

They are. They are also 1/4 inch thick. Plus the Remflex super thick gaskets. The size of the primaries won't allow the use of hex flanged bolts (Unless I grind the welds off, and weld the inside; If I go that far I'm just gonna make new headers), that was one of the first things I tried to use. The log and the primary won't allow it. It's hard enough getting in there with a shortened allen key.

Thats why I am asking about the Percy's vibe-lock header bolts; they are the closest thing I can find to the Breslin split lock bolts (Breslin went out of business in 08). The split locks were the best header bolt on the market, guaranteed to NEVER back out because of the usage of an allen set screw inside the bolt that mushrooms the tip in the head; Voila, immovable header bolts, until you want them to come out.

The Percy's seem to have the same internal set screw, with a clip to also prevent them from backing out. But I haven't been able to find anything other than a standard advertisement picture.

 

Well, electric boost solenoid and supporting board mod pack is in the mail, along with additional board mod packs for the trans fan; Going to use the FIDLE output to drive the coolant fan.

I think I am going to rewire the IAC tomorrow and get the FIDLE squared away. I think I left a transistor out of that circuit because I was eventually going to re-use the stock IAC. Just need to install the transistor and set the parameters.

I'm going to make a progressive boost map, I think it'll be pretty sweet.

I. Can't. Stop.

LOL

 

Here's a link to the Percy's header bolts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Percys-310068-Vibe-Lock-Header-Bolt-Kit-/131480707432?hash=item1e9cdc6168&vxp=mtr

 

I never had issues with mine coming loose. I run studs on the aluminum heads. I also use Hi temp copper Anti seize on the studs and nuts. Steel studs and alluminum heads can be bad to take back out sometimes.

Which boost silenoid did you get? Gm ac delco? I love the one I have. Works like a charm and gives lots of options for boost control. I'm not sure what tables and scalars MS will give you but the $59 mask gives a ton of options to control boost.

 

Its the DIYAutotune boost solenoid which is a "perfect replacement" for the GM solenoid. Aside from exterior appearance, they are identical.

 

Taking a chance using that boost solenoid. The Sy/Ty solenoids are still available and inexpensive (~$50). It is the bleed type, a N.O. port on it between compressor and WG actuator.

GM# 1997152

RBob.

 

While I've got the numbers handy, the connector pigtail for the Sy/Ty solenoid is:

GM #: 12102747 AC Delco #: PT374

Check valves, used to prevent boosting the various vacuum lines (such as HVAC, Cruise, EGR, CCP):

GM & AC Delco #: 14047619

RBob.

 

Good info to have but none of that stuff is left aside from the PCV, which has the large GM check valve before it.

 

Puff of smoke on startup - CHECK
Oil out the breather - CHECK
Smoke under boost - NOT YET

LOL

Just ordered fel-pro valve stem seals for the 2.8. I checked the check valve before the pcv and its operating normally. I have yet to pull the plugs and do a compression test; But I bet the ring gap is starting to open up?

At 300k miles I suppose anything is possible. I turned the boost back down to 5psi (SO SLOW LOL) from 10psi and its not as bad but still spits oil out the breather.

So how likely is it the valve guides, valve lash or rings?

 

Drove a good 170 miles + today. Barely used any oil. Car still runs great. Smooth idle, great pickup, no hesitation and it only smoked on startup the first time I started it this morning; one quick puff and done. Noticeable puff of blue. Still no smoke under boost.

So its clearly not something terrible or a sign of impending doom.

 

One and done. I know they are going to be a PITA to get on, but to not have to touch them ever again, well worth it.

Stage 8 Locking Header Bolts
http://www.jegs.com/i/Stage+8/868/69...FVMXHwod1hQAVw

Returning the valve stem seals today and getting the SBC seals. Found the size in an old thread (.530/ https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/7...ml#post5822939 ).

Being that its blowing oil under boost, if the valve stem seals don't fix it, I am going to start prepping the 3.4 for install. If the 2.8 comes out, the headers will get modified/improved, 3 inch downpipe to finish the complete exhaust system. Possibly a new turbo, I say that lightly. I like the spool characteristics of this turbo, and can help it out by converting the 2.5 inch outlet to a 3 inch outlet, heavily porting the internal wastegate, putting a different turbine on and putting a 60 trim compressor wheel on it with matching housing.

Yes, it would be easier to buy a new turbo. But how many here can say that they modified their turbo themselves? I want the experience. I would be taking it to be balanced afterwards.

As for the hybrid..... I'm going all the way. No hybrid. I will put a 3900 in it when the time comes around. AND I will keep the VVT with the MS; though I might need the MS3X daughterboard. Need to research more into that though.

For now, I will focus on re-implementing the IAC, running both the trans fan and coolant fan through the MS2, with different conditions. Need to pick up a vacuum switch and 4th gear TCC switch for lockup, and of course boost control.

 

I got just about EVERYTHING done with the MS harness that I have been putting off. Launch control is fully hooked up, Boost control solenoid is installed/wired/plumbed in and complete, Wired the IAC back into the harness, and got the coolant fan relay wired into the MS2. Got the USB socket fully wired in, and hooked the factory tach back up. I also moved the ECM near the factory spot, so its now hidden from view.

Did I mention I was up until 3 this morning doing all of the corresponding circuitry modifications to enable the use of all that stuff! LOL.

Launch control works and coolant fan works great. On at 190, off at 185. Gotta play around with the launch control settings.

The boost duty cycle is set at 65%, that should net me around 7-8 psi. Seems 75% duty gets me closer to 15-16psi, so I could definitely max out the 2.5bar MAP if I wanted, LOL.

When I took it out for a test drive I started with a 20% duty cycle and had wastegate pressure ~5psi, up to at least 50%. So I brought it up to 85% and thats when it popped a hose off. The boost came on quick, and it was pushing me back into the seat harder than before.

Pics;
Boost solenoid on the MS ECU(Didn't use the plastic barbs), Boost solenoid mounted under header panel(cool/dry), IAC wired back in(Not activated yet), MS ECU bare with MS2 daughterboard, IAC jumper wires on bottom side of mainboard.

 

Remind me..... your not running a external wastegate are you? The reason I ask is because of your wastegate duty cycle. I run about 10%DC on my 10lbs spring to maintan 13-14psi of boost...lol Darn huge turbo. I probly will need another gate at one point but why turn down the boost. Im assuming that 100% is a totally closed off reference signal and 0% means that the sileniod is all the way open such as mine is. This is nice in the off chance a wire breaks or something such as that, so the controler will then be normally open and not over boost the crap outta ya.

Im sure youll love the control of the wastegate via the silenoid.

Do you have a table at all that you can dial in the duty cycle vs mph or Tps %? Just curious on what all you have there on MS and if you have a Closed loop boost mode?

 

YeeHaw! 14psi and climbing!

I love it!
Its tpsXrpm, which is perfect. 0-50% duty cycle gets me wastegate spring pressure(5psi) with an internal gate. I am about 14psi@63% duty cycle. I am running open loop first to learn the correspondence between psi and duty cycle with this solenoid.

I do have an option for closed loop, and its even more neat than open loop boost control.

 

yes closed-loop boost control is awesome. you don't have any problems having a five-pound spring in there when you're running 15 pounds of boost I know when I had a really light spring mine wouldnt spool up as fast because it was cracking so early.. or durring shifts the boost wasn't stable. But I've also never felt with a internal gate before.

With a smaller turbo you should spool up on a data log in literly 1 second. My gt3582 would. Now I just need to get the big one I have now to. but I'm working on it as we speak

 

Well I was experimenting with the progressive boost idea, and it worked awesome, but I gave it a little too much duty cycle.

Had the overboost protection set for 200kpa. Well, it kicked in and out before I even had a chance to lift and


BANG!

Seems I hit about 20psi before the overboost kicked, but it only took the collector gasket out. Second time for the same collector.

Will upload a pic tomorrow, but I'm going to put ball and socket flanges in place of the collectors.

MAN WAS IT FUN BEFORE THAT! Shame I didn't have anyone with me to take video.

 

These,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit-Racing-Exhaust-Ball-Flange-Steel-Aluminized-2-25-in-Inside-Diameter-Kit-/390967842667?hash=item5b077fd76b&vxp=mtr
Or like these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-25-CUSTOM-BALL-SOCKET-FLANGE-EXHAUST-CONNECTOR-REDUCER-409-STAINLESS-STEEL-/360882025284?hash=item54063eb344&vxp=mtr

I'm leaning towards the second style.

 

those will leak , use aluminum gaskets

 

I've used ball flanges and they sealed fine for me.

 

I've never used the ball style. all I ever used was your collector style with alluminum or copper gsskets. Unless they are warped or outta wack they should seal up fine every time regardless of boost. I wonder what you boost ratio is in your exhaust?

 

20+ pages ago we went through this. The ONLY gasket I can use here is a Remflex gasket. And I am just plain tired of dealing with the collectors.

This is what I went with.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41722/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-41725/overview/

Which is exactly why I sprung for the ball flanges.

They were terribly misaligned from the get go, Which I fixed. If I had made the headers it probably wouldn't have been an issue. But since I have decided to improve the current header setup as it will be re-used if I do swap the engine into an S10 like I want to. I have someone looking around for an 89 roller.


I looked through the datalog and see what happened. I didn't exactly hit 20psi per se; Though it did.

Still trying to figure it out? I only hit 200KPA, spark cut kicked in then out because I had the Hysteresis too low, before I had a chance to lift. This caused all that gas to ignite in the exhaust leading to a backfire pre-turbo.

Everything is fine besides the collector gasket, the backfire caused the turbo to spin to 20psi, and caused a spike in the log (backfire).

As for the ball flanges, I will be able to get rid of the additional 3 inches that hang below the kmember by modifying the crossover to accept the ball flanges. The ball flanges will also be much easier to tighten and loosen/remove. At the same time, I will order the stage 8 locking header bolts and will put the new Remflex gaskets on.

No more leaks. And MOAR BOOST! Did I mention I am going for 20psi? LOL

 

I must say, This car makes some silly power for what it is at 10psi+. The more I bump it up, the harder it pulls. Its starting to get the whiplash effect going into boost now.

Its at the point where its starting to turn into a hair dryer, but it doesn't even get as hot as it did even at 6psi with the TMIC. at 15psi It hasn't even broke 100* after the cooler in a long pull.

I think it'll handle 20psi. If not, the 3.4 is ready and waiting.

As promised, a pic. Wish there was more carnage for you guys. Though it did sound like a cannon. Anyone ever fired a full load from a British 303? It was louder.....

 

That 3.4 has maybe 105k on it too with new head gaskets. It would hold the same power if not more than your current 2.8.

 

Here you go Mark. This is what I am working with. The first pic is my current settings for boost control. The second is the Table for duty cycle; This should put me somewhere around 16-20psi at 100% throttle. I haven't gone this far yet so I don't know for sure till I hit it.

The third is options for closed loop boost control.

 

Well, I'm going under the car to put a solid copper gasket I have extra to make it through till I get the stage 8 bolts and ball flanges. Since I have already fixed the alignment issue with the collectors, it should be fine in there.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...ml#post5772403
Same Copper gasket from this post. Thats where I discovered the misalignment and fixed it.

 

Well here is the old gasket. Bitch of it is it would have never blown out if it wasn't for the backfire.

Lesson learned lol.

Cranked it up with the solid copper on it and its not leaking anymore. Found another small leak, but cant do anything about that one till I get the ball flanges and header bolts. I already have another set of the Remflex header gaskets so I'll just do it all at once.

Stay tuned...

 

Nice man. I see your cranking up the boost! Nice. Im glad your ex leak is fixed up.

Here are some shots of my $59 tables for boost control.

These are the tables, there just collapesed in this pic but when you open them they are tables.



Here are the scallars. There also collapsed in the pic. But some of these I never have touched. There are a few in there though that i change alot to help control.

 

Wow man, thats way more options than MS, LOL.

What was your timing map like for the last turbo? Mind posting it up?

 

So far I'm at 15psi at 80% boost duty cycle. 73% injector duty cycle.

 

Here is my table. I tweaked it a little the other day but just the 99kpa to 130ish Kpa area. And just little changes

The table here was used in the gt3582r

 

I think I'm going to bump my timing up a little bit all around based on your map. I know you have the aluminum heads, but I don't see any reason I cant get close to your values. I will richen up the top end as well cause at 15psi I'm around 11.9AFR.

Just found out why; I need to redo my tables to include the 250KPA row. Need to play around and smooth the tables some as well. I have overboost set at 245kpa with a hysteresis of 50 and set for fuel and spark cut, That should get me plenty of time to lift this time.

So I am going to tweak my fuel and spark maps, give it more boost, and see what she does. I've got today off, lol

So far so good, shes eating up the boost.

 

I actually ran more timing on my iron heads..lol I think that the table i use exspecially in boost is pretty safe for our engines regardless of the alum or iron heads. Of course everyones set up is different though. I like 11.5 all day long on the 15psi area. I like to stay arround that 11.5 basically anytime over 8psi. Yea i could go leaner here and there but id rather be safe.

 

Makes a terrible racket anything over 15psi, lol.
I'm also now at 82% injector duty cycle.

Couple crappy cellphone vids.
You can barely hear the racket after it shifts into 3rd on the first pull.

 

Anything with an internal set screw will chew up the threads in an aluminum head.

I usually us a lock washer under the head, but only a high quality stainless or grade 8 will work for any time period (the heat will ruin cheap ones quickly), and in a lot of cases you won't have room for them. One thing that I do, washer or not is to give the threads a dab of copper RTV. the rubbery texture keeps them from vibrating out and it's heat resistant. I've never had one back out since I started doing that, I've never even had to re-torque one since I started doing that.

LOL, I threw the boost solenoid and board mod in the last time i ordered something from them, and I don't even plan to have the turbo on the car till next winter ;-)

From looking at your progressive map I would suggest cutting back on boost before the engine's torque peak. Boost before the torque peak is when you spike cylinder pressure, rattle and break things, and don't actually go any faster when making a pass (though it does feel like a beast like that), and if the rest of your drivetrain can tolerate it you can extend your rpm band fairly safely by ramping in even more boost up top, especially above the hp peak.

Wait, VVT, like as in a VVT turbo? How are are you doing that? that would be absolutely badass with the right aplication (and I have some ideas there).

How are you switching 2 fans separately with an MS?

 

VVT as in Variable Valve Timing.

The LZx 60 degree V6s have variable cam timing, which most people have deleted through various means when swapping them into other vehicles.

 

I was all excited that someone figured out how to control a Variable Vane Turbo with an MS... :-/

 

Variable valve timing. And you can run as many fans as you can outputs lol. Just have to have a switching transistor in there. I have a mini add on board I can mount for more outputs and can add a second DB9 connector to the case for MORE input/outputs, LOL.

Also going to order the Mapdaddy 4 bar map with onboard baro correction

 

The next step on VVT should be able to turn a 4 stroke engine into a 2 stroke without the oil n gas. 6 expansion chambers might take up a bit of under hood room though....

 

Do you guys think these 36lb injectors are going static at 83% duty? 15 psi is fine, anything higher it makes that terrible racket.

 

Also, I keep bending the distributor shaft. This is the second one thats been bent. It presents the same exact issue; severe rich lean swings on startup and a massive idle hunt.

 

Got the ball flanges. Now I gotta wait till Thursday to order the stage8 header bolts and start cutting and welding.

 

Do you think you're making over 400hp? I doubt 36's are going static till much above that but I've seen it happen at very high pressures. What 36's?

more than one bent distributor shaft is weird...

 

I think its more likely that the camshaft gear is worn, and the play is leading to the shaft getting bent once I hit boost. Welcome to any opinions/ideas on the cause.

They are rebuilt 36 LB Bosch IIIs from SouthBay. The reason I ask is I don't get any "racket" (I'll call it a racket till I know what it is), until I exceed 15psi. Over 15psi gets inefficient and puts alot of heat in the intake charge. Plus I had that massive backfire light off pre-turbine, So I am unsure what exactly is the cause.

Any input is welcome...

 

My type 3 a are loud too at times. my fastest pass last year was .77 duty cycle on 48 lbs injectors crossing the stripe at 6 300 rpm and 116mph to give you a idea. Rule of thumb if you talk to southbay.. keep it at 85 percent or lower

 

Its not the injectors making noise; its irregular and not uniform. It sounds like det, sheared teeth off the inside of the 3-4 clutch pack, something rubbing/rattling, or the TCC.

I'm at 11.7 afr at 15psi and thats WITH an exhaust leak, so its probably .5 or similar richer.

I might just start with buying a good dizzy for the 3.4, though I might just start with the DIS conversion now. Top end gaskets and swap the oil pans and intake manifold and its ready when the 2.8 goes, which it will.