1989 V6

My car will always do one of two things.
1. Start, the check engine light comes in, and will run fine.
2. Start, the check engine light does not come in, sputter, rev, sputter, and die.

I believe this is happening because with the light in, the ECU recognizes there is a problem and runs a default map. With no check engine light, the ECU does not recognize the problem and accepts a bad signal. I get the following codes.
32, 31, 26, 46, 36

32-I think this is because the EGR never opens due to some vacuum issues. I don't think that this would cause the above scenario though
31-The interlock requiring the clutch to be in to start the car is bypassed so this shouldn't be it.
26-Seems like the most likely culprit but I'm not even sure what this means. It does seem though like it could cause the above situations.
46-VATS is bypassed so it isn't this
36-I replace the MAF after getting this code but it is still in. Not sure.

The engine itself runs great. I am weakest on the electrical portions of the car and short of just replacing sensors I am not sure where to even start.
Thanks in advance for all the help.

 

#1 ; Fix the EGR issues . This can very well cause sputter sputter die drop dead idle frustrations

#2 ; If you bought an auto parts store cheapie "remanufactured" MAF , you really haven't fixed anything , because they all suck . Do a search of "reman MAF" and just see how many problem threads ya find .

#3 ; Totally eliminate this notion of "I'll just replace every sensor till it runs right" ..... You will easily run out of money before the car runs out of perfectly good sensors that don't need changing !

 

I will definately dig into the EGR issue more. It just seemed like if this was a problem it would be problematic all the time.

If I get the check engine light I have let it run fine with no issues for over an hour idling.

Any chance you think It could be an ECU issue?

 

Don't know if it's applicable to your situation, but on my car it just recently threw a code 32 (EGR). I hadn't had any problems starting it before, but suddenly it had the same issue you have where it would rev, sputter out down to around 200-300 rpm and do that for a bit, then it got to the point where it would just stall out after catching. Went back to being fine shortly after, but I have the EGR unplugged until the replacement arrives. I'm pretty sure it's a intermittently stuck open EGR, so the point of my story is that even EGR problems can be intermittent.

 

Is your speedometer connected?

 

I guess underestimated the impact a faulty EGR could have.

Yes, the speedometer is connected. What could an issue with this cause?

Do you guys think that what I said about the ECU is correct?

 

If your speedometer/odometer is disconnected your check engine light will be on.

Don't ask me how I know that.