Ok, the topic pretty much says it all... I push the throttle down while moving, and it'll want to move, but not really get up and go like i think it should... what could make it do that?

Super coil, cap+rotor look ok, worn but ok. (5K miles) the plugs all read a perfect grey when I pulled them to check gaps and open them up to .050... soot around the edges but the firing tip was great... I swapped in a Borg-Warner ignition module that I had laying around, and all that really helped my idle missfire problem, but it still struggles up top...

I know the spark is good... the mix is right by what the plugs are telling me... no real evedance of blow-by (no unwanted oil shooting out of filler hole)...

I pulled the oil fill cap in the valve cover while it was running, I expected to get showered, but it didn't seem like oil was flowing through there... it was wet, but I expected more, any comments?

My only guess about the problem up top is that maybe the injectors in conjunction with the O2 might not be able to supply the amount of fuel needed to feed the engine when it needs it (heavy foot, not cruising)... the O2 is roughly 5K miles old, but anti-freeze leaked on it and because the hole was stripped it had to be welded in... (hence why I don't just swap it out...)

Last I checked I was pulling 16HG of vacuum at idle, but that was with a real bad missfire and retarded timing, so it could have changed...

With all that said, what do you think?

 

Let me say I don't know much about engines, but did you check any mechanical components, maybe low tire pressure, a brake that is always depressed, or maybe something needs be lubricated. Probably not the answer I was lookin for, but I thought it might help.

 

Mabee low on tranny fuild or the torque converter could be gone. Or stuck rear brakes.

 

Could also be the beginnings of a clogged cat problem if has not been gutted/replaced already.

My $0.02

Dale

 

umm timing. Cause misfire, lack of proper spark.

EDIT a clogged cat will allow the engine to rev freely for a few minutes before the back pressure takes hold and bogs the engine down.

AS far as the mounting being stripped cut off the old bollt and weld on a new one.

 

Both vehicles that I have had to "fix" the cats on acted the same way. At slow engine speeds and light loads there was little effect. Once the load/speed increased it felt like the car was trying to pull a cruise ship. There was no free wheeling that I noticed but every situation is different. This is just from my experience.

Dale

 

Let me say that the timing is good... I set it by ear/feel, not by a light, so I know it's right... all fluids are up to the levels they're supposed to be at, however the tranny is nearly dead... could be the TC gone..., tire pressure is at 34 of a max 35 on tires checked it today... the brakes are worn but they sure arn't sticking

It doesn't freewheel, it just feels and sounds like it's pulling a cruise ship as someone said... I'm excited, from what all of you have said, you all describe symptoms of what you said were clogged cat situations... I'm going to have to work on getting that sucker off!!!

Thank you all... I know I ask some pretty vague questions sometimes, but this one actually got the response I was looking for! I'll keep you all updated!

 

Why'd they weld the sensor in? You can buy oxy sensor weld-in bungs... they should've just welded the bung in, and you would've had a new hole. They could've even welded the old hole shut if they didn't want to remove it from the pipe, and just drilled a new hole for the new bung.

 

I asked myself the same exact question...

Someone know the bung I need, or even what sized threaded nut I need? It's going in this weekend for some small stuff... I'll just buy it and have them weld it in (or let me borrow their welder for a second or two)...

 

I believe all oxy sensor bungs are the same... but I haven't seen any locally. I know Summit sells one; I don't know where you'd find one around town.