Hello group I have a problem with my Camaro, not long ago I changed the distributor, the rotor, the spark plug wires, but when I want to put it on time it does not let me because I move the distributor to one side, I want to accelerate and has no force, does not want to accelerate, then I move it to the other side, it accelerates too much at idle, and has enough power, but when I turn it off and turn it on again, it accelerates to 2500rpm at idle without pressing the accelerator, and does not go down there, I do not know what could be.

 

Lot of things to unpack here. Here’s what I would check and/or adjust:

1. “Has no force/does not want to accelerate” has a lot of interpretations, but I’m gonna assume it’s bad timing. I’m also gonna assume you’re using the correct adjustment procedure, with the EST disconnected. Sofa preaches (and I agree) to set the timing by feel, obviously noting any spark knock or other problems caused by misadjusted timing. Butt, with things this out of whack, I would recommend getting a timing light and setting it to the stock timing mark just so you can eliminate that variable.

2. After setting timing *no matter what* via turning the distributor, you now have two other things you have to adjust:

2a. The TPS or Throttle Position sensor. This one will only get messed up a little bit, butt can still cause a lot of problems. For the adjustment process, check the how-tos on the site, but the basic rundown is to use a mulitmeter to make sure that the throttle position sensor is reading at the correct voltage at closed throttle and WOT (wide open throttle). Again, those voltages and adjustments process are listed Here.
EDIT TO 2A: I believe your camaro is actually in the year bracket without an adjustable TPS. You should still check the voltages as described, but if they are not correct I believe it will need to be replaced instead of adjusted. (91-92 experts correct me if I’m wrong).

2B. The Idle Air Control sensor, or IAC. Let’s backup for a second. What does this IAC thing have to do with the timing? Quite simple actually. The distributor timing is the “base” timing that the ECM adjusts (which is why you have to disconnect the EST wire when setting timing). I’m assuming you already knew that. But the problem is, the computer is now adjusting to this new timing from the dizzy while the IAC is still adjusted to how it was before. This, most notably when advancing the timing, will cause your idle to be too high, or low if retarding the timing. When an IAC goes bad, it can make the car severely over-rev (stuck extended) or under-rev (stuck in extended). Your IAC is the thing coming out of the throttle body at the top passenger side. Pull it CAREFULLY (don’t want to mess up the aluminum), don’t lose the gasket, and clean it off with some throttle body cleaner. DO NOT GET CLEANER ANYWHERE OTHER THAN THE PINTLE (Tip) OF THE IAC OR YOU WILL TRASH IT. Ask me how I know lmao. The adjustment process is covered in the same link as the TPS, Here. Might be worth just replacing the IAC (especially if you are unsure of its age) if it’s in your budget.

3. “accelerates too much at idle” sounds like it could be any one of the 3 things I described above. Bad IAC or TPS, timing too far advanced, idle speed not adjusted, or a little thing such as the EST being disconnected or a vacuum leak. But based on the fact that you adjusted your timing with no mention of the IAC or TPS, I’m gonna assume one of those two (and/or improper timing adjustment procedure) is your problem.

So in conclusion, cleanup and test the IAC, test the TPS, make sure you’re setting timing correctly, and get/borrow/rent a timing light to set it to a stock time. Read the how-tos if you have any questions on the IAC, TPS, or timing processes. As always, check anything that could be a problem before firing the parts cannon