Calling Code 32 Calling Code 32 Calling Code 32
02-12-2002, 11:48 PM
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Calling Code 32 Calling Code 32 Calling Code 32
Yep, That's what I get.
SES light comes on & it goes off.
I assume my EGR may be finally gone or going.
I'll check the hoses,
How do I check the Relay?
No stalling problems.
Damn EGR was fine a year ago when I did the swap.
I even cleaned it & lubed it.
SES light comes on & it goes off.
I assume my EGR may be finally gone or going.
I'll check the hoses,
How do I check the Relay?
No stalling problems.
Damn EGR was fine a year ago when I did the swap.
I even cleaned it & lubed it.
02-13-2002, 02:15 AM
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Ahh I bet you it's just needs to be cleaned again. The shaft gets crummy real easy and it makes the SES go on and off. My Chilton's book doesn't give any info on how to check the EGR solenoid. Hopfully some one else can give you that info.
02-13-2002, 07:28 AM
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Do you have the digital EGR or the Vacuum EGR with the EGR vacuum solenoid.
With the EGR solenoid I used a vacuum guage .
I disconnected the vacuum line going to the EGR valve and connected the guage .The engine should be at operating temperature. At idle the guage should read zero when you crack the throttle the guage should jump somewhere around 7 (not exactly sure on that number bescause its been a while since I have done it ,but I know its not very much). when you release the throttle the needle should drop right back down. If it does this your solenoid is operating properly.
The EGR vave itself should operate freely . when you push in the diaphragm it should snap back.
The digital EGR , You have to use a volt and ohm meter to check. They are a real pain in the neck to diagnose. and expesive to replace.
Hope this helps
With the EGR solenoid I used a vacuum guage .
I disconnected the vacuum line going to the EGR valve and connected the guage .The engine should be at operating temperature. At idle the guage should read zero when you crack the throttle the guage should jump somewhere around 7 (not exactly sure on that number bescause its been a while since I have done it ,but I know its not very much). when you release the throttle the needle should drop right back down. If it does this your solenoid is operating properly.
The EGR vave itself should operate freely . when you push in the diaphragm it should snap back.
The digital EGR , You have to use a volt and ohm meter to check. They are a real pain in the neck to diagnose. and expesive to replace.
Hope this helps
02-13-2002, 10:07 AM
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Hi All,
That hits it right on the head.
I'll tackle that today.
Originally, mine (before swap) was pretty caked over with carbon. I just chipped off. I threw a small dab of oil on shaft to lube.
I'll try it again.
Sounds like now is the time to use the 1965 Vacuum Manifold gauge I found from a 1965 Impala SS at a swap meet. Big numbers on reading face as like Big Ben.
If you get the flu, I feel for ya.
Still getting over mine from the weekend.
That hits it right on the head.
I'll tackle that today.
Originally, mine (before swap) was pretty caked over with carbon. I just chipped off. I threw a small dab of oil on shaft to lube.
I'll try it again.
Sounds like now is the time to use the 1965 Vacuum Manifold gauge I found from a 1965 Impala SS at a swap meet. Big numbers on reading face as like Big Ben.
If you get the flu, I feel for ya.
Still getting over mine from the weekend.
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