How much horse you think I will get out of cammy hunters headers, costume ypipe, high flow cat and dynomax in the back. I figure around $350 to $400 it will cost.

 

Serious?
Really
I believe nothing more than 20 HP.
The 60* manifolds are very efficent.
They just need to be ported.
And by porting you only gain about 5-7HP
That custom Y pipe is the killer.
THERE you gain a solid 10, easy and your engine can finally have better exhaust flow.
The rest of the piping in ok, too.
The V-8 factory intermediate is only marginally bigger. The muffler can also help, but, we are not pushing out tons of air flow.
When I spend my effort, all I'll do is make a better Y pipe connection.
When this muffler falls off, I'll replace that, then, too.

 

what you think It would be better to port and polish my exhaust manifolds instead of getting Camaro Hunters Reproduction Headers. ALso what size y pipe should I go with than.

 

I AM NOT SUGGESTING THAT ANSWER, headers/flowing the stock manifolds is all up to you.
One solution is street legal and it fits.
One is not street legal. Period.
AN UNFORTUNATE TRUTH (YET, I am am rooting for ya to find out how to make legal).
Y Pipe is easy
Go to Edelbrock and check out their Y pipes for the S-10 Blazer & The V-8 Headers.
OR make your own!
I know of one already made, but it $100 & I'd have to "Adjust".

 

20 horsepower Karl??? that much!!!!!?

i would have thought maybe 5 at the most but i am not to judge


i feel sort of bad............................i am becomming a mechanic............but i feel as though people think i should know everything about what i am doing because i am attending school for it

i dont know everything.......i barely know anything

especially about diagnostics and performance...........they dont teach us that in school at all..........they just show us how to fix something when it breaks............i'm kinda upset with this......but i still like the career i chose........................they dont teach us how to diagnose because we are sent directly out to the GM dealers to work...............being at a dealer.......you dont have to diagnose anything.......its all done for you already........they just tell you fix this or fix that


i feel this way, cuz when i tell people i am going to school to become a mechanic they will then present me with a problem with their car and expect me to be able to diagnose it...........

sorry guys just had to vent:lala:

 

Teal, when are you going to get your headers installed, and do you think you'll have to remove your Air Conditioning? Thanks.

I think if there is whole exhaust set-up like headers, cat converter, y-pipe and a dynomax cat back exhaust I think at least 15 Horse Power to the wheels. A V8 TBI was dynoed at 22 RWHP on this show called Horse Power TV a while back. I dont think we'll get as much HP as the V8, but I think we should get around 15 and maybe more if you have a cam and other mods like me.
The whole exhaust set up is gonna be a hell of alot more than 300 to 400 dollars to. I paid 70 for my cat, 180 for the exhaust around 80 dollars for installation for that, the headers costed me only 150, but the guy who is going to install and make a y-pipe said it will cost between 400 to 500 dollars for the installation and the y-pipe. Get ready to drop alot of cash if you want all this done. I think it is worth it though.Peace Out

 

hmmmmm

headers still didnt get here yet.........

but i am debating whether to run straight pipes once i get the headers on....................

prolly get rid of my cat...........

hmmmmmm.................. i mite get rid of my a/c anyways.............
i want to go out and buy a a/c and smog pump delete belt...............i figure that will give a good amount of power........not from the draw that these command, but from elminating the length that belt has to travel..........................i just hope the headers fit manual tranny cars.........

 

Well my next mod will probly be the Dynomax catback ($150) along with a high flow cat($70) cause my cat is almost dead and load as a bitch. SO that $220 I will spend first. All that would be is clamps right. I dont think theres any welding for just that much of the system. So if I dont like that set up that much I might go with headers and a new y-pipe. I figure I will get alot of power of them eventually. If I think its good enough I will wait for that 3.4L that I plan on dropping in. And get headers for that instead with that ypipe.

 

Clamps
You MAY be lucky kinda doubt it tho.
The CC must be welded!
Spend the bucks on the Y pipe, CC & the muffler.
THAT'S A SOILD INVESTMENT. IF your CC is bad, clogged, and the muffler is stock, you'll be gaining about 15+ HP EASY!
Top that off with ignition upgrade & new timing chain, a bit more air & your 2.8 won't be the same! And this will help make the little 60* engine run stronger & longer & your gas milage will go up.
AND all that can be swapped over to the 3.4 mill.
In other words, YOU WIN!!!
With a wise investment of the pipes & the ignition upgrade, you gain back full original HP + some. Cost may be about $300 total if you shop wisely!

 

KED85 You the man, I was thinking the same thing. If I go without the headers you know. ANd with my new CAI it will run even stronger. Ignion you mean the wires and that good stuff, I'm pretty sure I can do tht myself, its cheap I think too. But that chain, how much is that and how much for installation. Is that like the double roller one.

 

KED85, when i put my cc on it was clamped from the factory and for the new cc we clamped that on also... so far so good...

edit:
ps we had to torch it till it was red to get the cc off the pipe, once it was nice and hot it came off easy... i hate rust

 

still not enough... I have the cat back and high flow converter and have original hooker headers sittin here to be put on.. If I had 400 to toss away I would look into NOS...

 

Yep, clamps will work just fine. Since you're replacing your cat already, you don't have to worry about damaging it to get it off of the slip-fit at the y-pipe. Use liquid wrench on all the bolts and pipe fittings for a few days before you do the work. Honestly, I believe the clamp at the catalytic convertor will snap in half when you remove it. To dislodge the slip-fit pipes, hammer an old screwdriver in between the y-pipe and the catalytic convertor inlet. THis will pry the flanges apart. If you want, you could go for a drive... that'll help loosen everything up good.

I think you'll get more out of headers than a ported exhaust manifold. There's not that much to port inside the exhaust manifold.

There's a bit of power to be had in the "donuts" between the manifold and the y-pipe. These donuts allow us to have a gasketless flange between the y-pipe and manifolds. The donuts have a sharp ridge on the inside, where they transition from a large opening (manifold) to a smaller opening (y-pipe). I smoothed the insides of both of them down with a metal file and an air grinder, and noticed a seat of the pants difference.

But, it still won't be as good as headers. And; is there any truth to a header'd car being LOUDER than a car with manifolds?

 

You see I'm still decinding on buying headers, I most likely will get a 3.4L eventually. So If I were to buy the 2.8L headers they might be a waste, and I probly would end up selling it you know.

 

Then get NOS.. You can take it to your 2.8, 3.1, 3.4, 5.0, 5.7, 6.6 what ever...

 

Let's get back to simple.
ANYTHING THAT FITS A 2.8-3.1 WILL FIT A 3.4, except the obvious (a piston & the crank).
Chains
It's a messy mission but so worth it!
800-831-0884
Northern Auto Parts, will deliver the chain, gaskets & WATER PUMP for about $50-ish, all NAME brands.
Double roller or link belt, no true diff.
Gain loose HP over on to the other?
ANYTIME YOU BEEF UP IGNITION YOU ALWAYS GAIN HP!!
ALAWYS.
The chain, you want the chain. Any brand offered. They last about 70,000 - 130,000 miles.
Ignition is easy, until you get to the distributor.
Then the distb must be removed and rebuilt on the bench. At that time you add the coil on the shaft, new modular and make all clearances proper. Rebuilding distb is very easy.
I never did one before (read about it alot) finally did it. I used sand paper, my eye (for clerances), brake cleaner and axle grease. Oh and a punch to remove the roller pin retaining all internals.
The rest ignition is what?
Coil
Plug wires & plugs
cap & rotor.
Exhaust
Headers noisy?
Yeah.
Especially with your heavy right foot.
But, they are "louder".
Can you port the stock manifold?
Certainly.
As much of a HP gain as headers?
Thats up to the drag strip & a Dyno.
I've seen both numbers & they are close. Alot of material in the stock manifold to port, yep.
Can you do it? TRY, but, you may go too thin and ruin the manifold. That's what Extrude Hone is for. Silly putty stuff to remove the material, the right way & ya pay for it.
TomP did an experiment on the exhaust doughnuts.
His experiment worked, but, when I did my swap, my choosen gaskets (Fel PRo) were rather large, already so I saw no need to duplicate his effort.
YOu have to make a plan and stick to it.
One part at a time, feel the gain.
The majority of the stuff is an easy swap/upgrade, except chain swap & replacing EX manifolds..
Myself? Next project is the Y Pipe set up. I need a freer flowing exhaust system. Trying to find a spare Y pipe set (ON THE GROUND! AT THE YARD I'm LAZY) to work with.

 

Karl, FelPro sells those donut things?? How much were they each? I did my test because it was about as budget as you could get... just be careful not to snap any exhaust manifold studs. Use a LOT of liquid wrench for DAYS, hell, WEEKS before you start the work.

[edit] Aw damn, I should probably say this... (put on "Grandfather talking to 5-year-old" voice) Liquid Wrench is flammable, so if you do soak the bolts with LW weeks before doing the work, be careful spraying it on a hot exhaust. It could catch fire. The resulting steam might also get into your eyes/lungs/ears/shoelaces, and could cause injury, or even death. [/end generic disclaimer]

 

Hi Tom,
I went to Pep Boys and got them.
$9+, each.
Even had them on hand.
They fit correct.
Even reused them during my swap.

 

Hey I'm back online. My car and computer are the same. The problems keep coming and when I fix it something else goes wrong. Anyways, I know now to get a Ypipe for a blazer if I read all that right, file down the inside of the dohgnuts (spelled it wrong I bet), get a highfow CC, and I think I'll go with a flowmaster 80 or 40 series, but what size pipe does everyone have? Stock or something bigger? Mine's rusting through right down the middle so it needs replacing anyway.

 

That's an easy decision.
Go for a STOCK V-8 SIZED INTERMEDIATE PIPE.
It's SLIGHTLY larger than a V-6 & HOPEFULLY will be LESS EXPENSIVE than a HI-PO unit sold in Germany. The size would be slightly larger than 2 1/2"
And that would be just right!

 

I'll try that I guess. I took it to a custom exhaust shop and he said he could try the stock v8 size, but if I got it too big it would just start sucking more gas.
That and I might have an exhaust gasket leak. great.

 

YOu probably willhave exhaust gasket leaks.
Get some fel pro gaskets and slap them on. Make sure the exhaust manifolds are true & flat. Take them to a machine shop for a quick flat sand. All engine bolts are 10mm & below are 15mm