I have a 1986 Camaro with a 1988 stock V6 2.8 with a 700 R4 Transmission.
The problem is when I step on the gas it is very slow to start but once i get into the higher gears it seems to do fine until I get to about 45 mph then it wont upshift unless I rev the rpms way up. I think it might me a vac problem because it is slow in every gear, even first and second.
I also think it might be the shift linkage, is that possible. Also the Up SHift light on the dash comes on constantly when im driving.

If andbody has any ideas on what could be causing this problem plaese let me know.

Thanks
Aerodragon

 

welcome to the V6 board...aerodragon...

if u think ur shifting too late then it might be the TV cable thats outta place...



vacuum leak is possible... the best way to find that is to get a vacuum gauge...

have u ever used a fuel injector cleaner before ??
try that that might be it ..

 

With the car off pop the hood. Pull the throttle body lever all the way down. Release it, do it again, but make sure you pull it all the way down beyond 90 degrees. Check your timming and it should be good.

 

I dont know how good it is to use injector cleaner in our injectors .Becarefull with that . I have heard of it causing damage .ATLEAST , dont use any of that over the counter stuff at parts stores .GM , or auto professionals know what to use . How is your plugwires ? cap and rotor ? fuel filter ? Do these need changing ?

 

well wayne if u atleast dont use anything ull have to open the manifold sometime and see deep carbon deposit inside ... i had that and thats because of not using any cleaner ...

atleast i thinkk throttle body cleaner is safe...
and u might be actually right as far as injector cleaner goes... but sometimes the gas u fill up from some pumps might be bad as hell
too

 

I've used fuel injection cleaner, and intake cleaner. CHecked the timing, changed the sparkplugs and wires with no change. Do you think it might be the distributer. would having a vacume leak cause my problem?

Aerodragon

 

Glad you hear you checked the timing! (That's what I was going to suggest, too.) How's the inside of the distributor cap/rotor, are the terminals gunked up?

Is the mark on the balancer for the #1 cylinder TDC correct? The outer ring of a balancer can slip if the rubber isolator ring deteriorates; maybe this happened. Bring the #1 cyl (front driver's side, not front passenger side) up to TDC using a breaker bar on the crankshaft pulley- remove the coil wire first! To verify TDC, remove the #1 plug, and put a long phillip's head screwdriver in the hole. When the screwdriver stops rising, you've more or less got TDC. Now, make sure the mark on the balancer lines up with the 0 degree mark on the timing tab.

How did the plugs look when you pulled 'em, normal? Or were they full of deposits?

Hey- you get an upshift light on the dash??? How? That's disconnected for the V6 automatics. The bulb is removed, and I think the pin on the dash connector is also missing. Did you wire it in? Or was your car once a manual trans?? I want to wire mine in, instead of adding in an aftermarket shift light. Just curious as to why it's coming on for you.

 

Yeah It used to be a manual, I never thought of that, thanks. I talked to a friend today and he said it might be the Vacume advance in the transmision. Does that ring any bells. I'm going to change the rotor and cap tommarow. i'll let you know how it goes. The plugs looked og but a couple of them had oil on them.

Aerodragon

 

I tired something tonight that might help figure this out. I put the car in nutral and floored it the tach went up slowly and would fluxuate by a couple hundred RPMS, anyway the highest I could get it up to was 4K.

Aerodragon

 

I wasn't real clear with my reply .What I meant was "dont use any of the over the counter stuff . The best thing to do is take it to a shop or send them to Kruzin Performance .Ask TomP about it , Im sure he has the ph number or website .

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by WaynesRS
I dont know how good it is to use injector cleaner in our injectors .Becarefull with that . I have heard of it causing damage .ATLEAST , dont use any of that over the counter stuff at parts stores .GM , or auto professionals know what to use . How is your plugwires ? cap and rotor ? fuel filter ? Do these need changing ? [/Q

I wasn't real clear with my reply .What I meant was "dont use any of the over the counter stuff . The best thing to do is take it to a shop or send them to Kruzin Performance .Ask TomP about it , Im sure he has the ph number or website

 

Double post sorry

 

just by chance did you replace the Manual EPROM with an Auto one? That could be it as well. Ever think of that.

As far as throttle body cleaners I religously use the Valvoline stuff. WORKS GREAT. pulled my intake off when I replaced the injectors with the ones I sent to Cruzin and sprayed it out a little and it looked like new!.

Does the car drag on acceleration or what?. Your T/B cable is probly outta wack. What is your timing set to? 10 or 13 degrees? I(and many others) on the board have found that the cars like 13 more then 10. Just something to try.

Hows your A/F ratio? Running rich? Lean?
And codes in the comp?
last time the 02 senor or any other sensor was replaced?.
Did the car jt start doing this? did it start after the trans swap?(if so refer to needing an auto prom)
How many miles on the car? easy rough? may be clogged cat. Too much back pressure will drown the engine. Cause the same dragging effect.
Does the EGR Valve move freely? May be a part of the overall problem.
Was mentioned earlier any vacuum leaks? last time you replaced the intake gaskets? only what 17.85 or something at auto zone.
Last time IAC was checked? cleaned? an open one can cause erratic problems, trust me.
What are your plugs saying? running good? Quality wires? Quality cap & rotor?
What condition is the trans fluid in. And not just "at the stick" thats the clean stuff(all the crap is in the converter). How long has it been sence fluid change? filter change?

I would check codes. I bet there is a sensor or something acting up. HAS TO BE. If nothing else you'll find out if the damn light works or not.

 

I heard that if you change the tranny fluid sometimes it can cause the whole thing to lock up.

Aerodragon

 

That depends. If the trans has 130K miles then no you don't change the fluid. But I have changed it on cars that had over 100K and they ran just fine. Owners even said it helped alot.

So is the manual prom still in the car?

 

No i changed the Prom and got a new ECM

 

Also, theres soposed to be a cable that goes from the transmission to the shifter besides the shif cable that hooks to the neutral switch. Its not there. does that have any effect on the engine.

 

the neutral safety switch will not make a difference. Thats just to get the car started in neutral.

I would go over the things I listed above. One of those has to fix something thats wrong.

 

just figure out your powerband... mines from 2600 - 4500

 

There's two cables by the stock shifter; one goes to the transmisssion, the other is the lock-out for the ignition key. It prevents you from turning the car all the way to "off" if you've got the car in a gear other than Park. You don't need that one; in fact, for my B&M shifter, I tied it with wire so it's always "in" (yes, the B&M instructions said to do this).

Does this slow-rev have anything to do with temp? Does it occur when the car is both cold and warm? Did you check the balancer ring yet?

 

update
I changed the rotor, cap, wires and plugs. I also put in a new O2 sensor and throtle position sensor. nothings changed. when I put it in drive and floor it the RPS only go up to 1000. In 1st, 2nd, Drive, overdrive and even reverse it stays the same. Except fo neutral and park in which i can get it up to abdou 4K.

Any Ideas. I'm about to just have the Tranny Rebuilt.
Aerodragon911

 

That doesnt sound like the tranny to me , but thats just my oppinion . When my tranny went out , I could redline it , it just would not go anywhere .

 

HUUMMM...


Does anyone know if a bad TPS would do this? Could also be the knock sensor. They don't all ways set a code when they go bad and will cause the engine to over retard the timing.

 

Wow someone elses shift up light comes on in there Auto. Cool. I always wondered why it did that. But its original Tranny. So it must be wired in.

 

Are the back brakes dragging really badly? Nah, you'd smell the burning brakes, just joking.

If you can only rev it to 4k in neutral, I don't think it's the trans. Could the timing gear have skipped a tooth? Annnnd... I know you don't want me to ask this anymore, but did you check the balancer ring yet? I described how in my first message to you...

 

I think mine won't rev very far past 4 k either..at least thats how the engine sounds. Rev limiter I think. But I don't rev mine anymore... I never hear sounds more utterly horriffic than the sounds coming from my pipes and engine when I rev.

 

Oh, and BitchinRS, the 85-89 2.8's don't have a knock sensor anywhere. That's a 90-92 3.1 thing (speed density).

 

Replace or gut the cat

sounds like the only thing left

 

TomP,

Oh... Thanks for the education!!

 

it does sond like a bad cat, go for a drive and look under the car, if the cat is glowing red hot it is cloged.












www.ViragoTech.com [new]:rockon:

 

I have a post now that is close to your problem. Main question is, does it run slow always or just when it warms up. I have the same car and it runs great cold (open loop), but lousy warm (closed loop). Are you getting this problem?

 

your problem is probibly the cat get it replaced of get all the stuff out of the middle of it. I'd bet thats your problem because when the cat gets hot it really slows the car.
I guted my cat a long time ago and it worked fine on the car i had it on.

Aerodragon911

 

I just found something new out today, I think you'll get a kick out of it.
I can accelerate in Neutral!!!
when I'm going about 15 in 1st gear and put it in Neatral the car will accelerate I can feel it going forward, and its not just momentum, but when i'm at a ful stop it just revs.
I think the Cluch might be worn, would that cause all my original problems.Let me know what you think.
Aerodragon911

 

..and Back TO THE Future!!!

What was the issue? I have the same problem right now after changing automatic trans and converter for another one. Of course new fluid and filter.

 

Oh and it doesn't down shift ater I push the pedal to the metal, TV cable was adjusted after mounting trans

 

I have new issue, to drive out of garage I've always use reverse gear, but after starting, put in reverse and push the gas pedal nothing happens for about 3-5 second after thats works just fine.

Doesn't happend on hot engine.

Is my torqe converter dying?

 

There is performance quardajet shop that does awesome builds on them. I would send the carb there. I will try to find it. The guy with the L69 blue z28 that was a car of month nomination used them.

I do agree it really sounds like the 1982 pellet cat is clogged. Those pellet cats are real garbage.