What a lube job is!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
What a lube job is!
Just some generic info that was asked for...
A lube job is when you add grease to all the joints of the front suspension linkage. It should be done every time you change your oil.
If you crawl under the front of the car, you'll see the "zerk fittings", to which a grease gun attaches to. They look like little nipples; for real! They're probably covered in dirt, so wipe 'em down with a paper towel.
Where's the fittings? Slide under the front of the car. Look by the the anti-sway-bar to find the "center link". It has the "inner & outer tie rods" at each end, and a pitman arm on the driver's side, and an idler arm on the passenger side. The steering box moves the pitman arm, which moves the center link, which moves each inner/outer tie rod combo, which eventually moves the tires.
Look at an outer tie rod end from the bottom to find a grease fitting. There's also fittings on the balljoints (bottom center of the lower control arms, where the front springs are). There's 9 zerk fittings in all on the front suspension; can ya find 'em all? Look at all the joints.
You can buy a little grease gun for $10-$15. That one will take little cartridges. You can either move to synthetic grease, or stay with the organic grease... doesn't really matter. Synthetic will last longer and lube better, but if you keep up on your lube jobs, you don't really need it. Both synth and dino are lithium based, so they're compatible. DON'T buy "marine grease"- it's silicone based, and is NOT compatible. It's used for polygraphite/polyurethane bushings, NOT rubber.
The little grease cartridges are usually sold in packs of 3 or 5- make sure the package says "GM compatible wheel bearing" somewhere on the back. (They all should.) A better grease gun will take larger cartridges (sold individually), and have a hose (easier to work with) instead of a metal line. I have an air powered grease gun!
Wipe the fittings off before you lube 'em. Give each fitting enough pumps of the gun so you can see new grease come out. The balljoints are tough to see. Don't pump the balljoints up too much, the grease boots can pop, give them at max 5-7 pumps. This is "my" max, with a grease gun that uses the large cartridges. I'm sure the larger gun puts out more grease "per pump" than a smaller gun does.
A lube job is when you add grease to all the joints of the front suspension linkage. It should be done every time you change your oil.
If you crawl under the front of the car, you'll see the "zerk fittings", to which a grease gun attaches to. They look like little nipples; for real! They're probably covered in dirt, so wipe 'em down with a paper towel.
Where's the fittings? Slide under the front of the car. Look by the the anti-sway-bar to find the "center link". It has the "inner & outer tie rods" at each end, and a pitman arm on the driver's side, and an idler arm on the passenger side. The steering box moves the pitman arm, which moves the center link, which moves each inner/outer tie rod combo, which eventually moves the tires.
Look at an outer tie rod end from the bottom to find a grease fitting. There's also fittings on the balljoints (bottom center of the lower control arms, where the front springs are). There's 9 zerk fittings in all on the front suspension; can ya find 'em all? Look at all the joints.
You can buy a little grease gun for $10-$15. That one will take little cartridges. You can either move to synthetic grease, or stay with the organic grease... doesn't really matter. Synthetic will last longer and lube better, but if you keep up on your lube jobs, you don't really need it. Both synth and dino are lithium based, so they're compatible. DON'T buy "marine grease"- it's silicone based, and is NOT compatible. It's used for polygraphite/polyurethane bushings, NOT rubber.
The little grease cartridges are usually sold in packs of 3 or 5- make sure the package says "GM compatible wheel bearing" somewhere on the back. (They all should.) A better grease gun will take larger cartridges (sold individually), and have a hose (easier to work with) instead of a metal line. I have an air powered grease gun!

Wipe the fittings off before you lube 'em. Give each fitting enough pumps of the gun so you can see new grease come out. The balljoints are tough to see. Don't pump the balljoints up too much, the grease boots can pop, give them at max 5-7 pumps. This is "my" max, with a grease gun that uses the large cartridges. I'm sure the larger gun puts out more grease "per pump" than a smaller gun does.
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 827
Likes: 0
From: Tenino, Washington
Car: 89 f-bird and some others
Engine: 3.4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I remember hearing one time that in order to properly grease some of the joints, you need to jack up the front so that there's no load on the springs. Or would this matter? (other than making everything easier to get to)
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
Hm; I don't know. It would make sense, though. I've always lubed the car while the front is on wheel ramps... never thought to try it while the wheels were hanging.
Don't you mean... "Have you ever wondered, what is a lube job?"
or "What is a lube job?"
You can't really over lubricate a cars suspension, but technically every oil change may be too often. Consult an owners manual for details.
or "What is a lube job?"
You can't really over lubricate a cars suspension, but technically every oil change may be too often. Consult an owners manual for details.
My g.o.d this is sad. If you own a car and do not know what a "Lube Job" is then you have no business owning the car!. Typically you only need one about 2 times a year. 1 early summer and right after winter.
Early summer to get freash grease to stand up to summers heat, and the winter to get any grime out that may have gotten in and solidified.
Early summer to get freash grease to stand up to summers heat, and the winter to get any grime out that may have gotten in and solidified.
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 0
From: "No one cares if you're in before the lock!" - Best quote ever.
When I got my first car, I didn't have much of an idea about anything...lube job included. Perhaps someone new was just curious as to what actually went on with a lube job..? I mean, the name is pretty ovbious, I think it was a valid question - I think I had plenty of business owning that Corsica back in the day.
I have to correct myself... the recommended service intervals aren't listed in the owners manual, they're listed in the service booklet thats usually in the pouch with the owners manual
GM recommends lubing the chassis every 7500 miles or every other oil change.
GM recommends lubing the chassis every 7500 miles or every other oil change.
I bet that 7 out 10 people do not get a lube job because they do not know they need one or just plain forget. Not everyone is an ace mechanic, a lot of guys read this forum to learn work on cars. I know I have the only thing I knew how to do wash my car, now I learned how to replace my water pump, muffler, remove and fix my egr valve, fix the pain in the *** idle problem. From this very place. Thanks to people like TomP and vader they help out alot . Some other people just like to sound smart but don't really give any real input or answers------> (My g.o.d this is sad. If you own a car and do not know what a "Lube Job" is then you have no business owning the car!.) Boy oh boy.
Originally posted by dsaint1347
I bet that 7 out 10 people do not get a lube job because they do not know they need one or just plain forget. Not everyone is an ace mechanic, a lot of guys read this forum to learn work on cars. I know I have the only thing I knew how to do wash my car, now I learned how to replace my water pump, muffler, remove and fix my egr valve, fix the pain in the *** idle problem. From this very place. Thanks to people like TomP and vader they help out alot . Some other people just like to sound smart but don't really give any real input or answers------> (My g.o.d this is sad. If you own a car and do not know what a "Lube Job" is then you have no business owning the car!.) Boy oh boy.
I bet that 7 out 10 people do not get a lube job because they do not know they need one or just plain forget. Not everyone is an ace mechanic, a lot of guys read this forum to learn work on cars. I know I have the only thing I knew how to do wash my car, now I learned how to replace my water pump, muffler, remove and fix my egr valve, fix the pain in the *** idle problem. From this very place. Thanks to people like TomP and vader they help out alot . Some other people just like to sound smart but don't really give any real input or answers------> (My g.o.d this is sad. If you own a car and do not know what a "Lube Job" is then you have no business owning the car!.) Boy oh boy.
TomP,
I only found 8. I just gave my car a lube a couple of hours ago. Ware does the 9th hide at?
There's 9 zerk fittings in all on the front suspension; can ya find 'em all? Look at all the joints.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I'm located in the middle. 
The answer to the "quiz" of 9 fittings-
1 at each lower balljoint (2 total)
1 at each outer tierod end (2 total)
1 at each inner tierod end (2 total)
1 at each idler arm joint (2 total, arm-to-body, arm-to-centerlink)
1 at pitman arm-to-center-link (1 total)
There's the 9!
UN-Less, are later model cars different? I didn't think lube joints changed from 82-92... did they?

The answer to the "quiz" of 9 fittings-
1 at each lower balljoint (2 total)
1 at each outer tierod end (2 total)
1 at each inner tierod end (2 total)
1 at each idler arm joint (2 total, arm-to-body, arm-to-centerlink)
1 at pitman arm-to-center-link (1 total)
There's the 9!
UN-Less, are later model cars different? I didn't think lube joints changed from 82-92... did they?
Originally posted by dsaint1347
Some other people just like to sound smart but don't really give any real input or answers------> (My g.o.d this is sad. If you own a car and do not know what a "Lube Job" is then you have no business owning the car!.) Boy oh boy.
Some other people just like to sound smart but don't really give any real input or answers------> (My g.o.d this is sad. If you own a car and do not know what a "Lube Job" is then you have no business owning the car!.) Boy oh boy.
Do you kow how tempted I am after seeing they know nothing to get back into my car and drive off?!. I MIGHT drop them at the next off ramp at a phone.. But thats it. Hell for a guy to come out and put on your spare costs what? 35-50 bucks?.... If your lucky? I know alot of tow truck drivers that LOVE those calls cause its a quick easy 50 bucks...
And yes thats a part of the reason boards like this exist.. Is to help others... but some questions....
Last edited by Camaro_hunter_d; Apr 8, 2002 at 07:24 PM.
Originally posted by Camaro_hunter_d
and 2195 to 93 posts....
Actually I have given ALOT of input to this board, and helped ALOT of people. And the statement is true. If you own a car you should now how to service it. If you don't you deserve what you get. I think it should be MANDATORY for ALL PEOPLE to take automotive maintenance in school. it should be a REQUIREMENT. There are too many people that know abosolutely nothing about their cars. I have seen WAY too many people pulled off the side of the road with flats and I stop to help and they are completely lost as how to fix the problem. MEANING HAVING NO CLUE WHERE THE SPARE IS MUCH LESS KNOW HOW TO PUT IT ON!.
Do you kow how tempted I am after seeing they know nothing to get back into my car and drive off?!. I MIGHT drop them at the next off ramp at a phone.. But thats it. Hell for a guy to come out and put on your spare costs what? 35-50 bucks?.... If your lucky? I know alot of tow truck drivers that LOVE those calls cause its a quick easy 50 bucks...
And yes thats a part of the reason boards like this exist.. Is to help others... but some questions....
and 2195 to 93 posts....
Actually I have given ALOT of input to this board, and helped ALOT of people. And the statement is true. If you own a car you should now how to service it. If you don't you deserve what you get. I think it should be MANDATORY for ALL PEOPLE to take automotive maintenance in school. it should be a REQUIREMENT. There are too many people that know abosolutely nothing about their cars. I have seen WAY too many people pulled off the side of the road with flats and I stop to help and they are completely lost as how to fix the problem. MEANING HAVING NO CLUE WHERE THE SPARE IS MUCH LESS KNOW HOW TO PUT IT ON!.
Do you kow how tempted I am after seeing they know nothing to get back into my car and drive off?!. I MIGHT drop them at the next off ramp at a phone.. But thats it. Hell for a guy to come out and put on your spare costs what? 35-50 bucks?.... If your lucky? I know alot of tow truck drivers that LOVE those calls cause its a quick easy 50 bucks...
And yes thats a part of the reason boards like this exist.. Is to help others... but some questions....
Originally posted by coolrimsatleast
I remember hearing one time that in order to properly grease some of the joints, you need to jack up the front so that there's no load on the springs. Or would this matter? (other than making everything easier to get to)
I remember hearing one time that in order to properly grease some of the joints, you need to jack up the front so that there's no load on the springs. Or would this matter? (other than making everything easier to get to)
ball joints, I dont think you have the problem with them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





