What is the widest 18" wheel you guys are running with the tire tucked under the fender and not sticking past? Which rear end are you using to make this work?

I am getting close to ordering wheels/tires and I am looking for a tucked appearance (highly depending on my ground clearance but lets assume I have it). I have a new strange 12 bolt, factory bolt in, and they say its the exact same width as the factory rear. The fender lips are rolled as much as they can be. The only thing left to do it beat/cut the inner wheel wells.

I would like to get a min. 18x10 tucked but i PRAY i can find a way to make 18x11 fit.

For tires, I am looking at MT Street Radial II's - anyone use these, are they good/bad? Or should I just use street tires?

I will have 650-700 hp at the crank, t-56 is built for 700 ft lb tq, and rear is plenty strong so i dont think I should break anything with the extra traction.

Pics would really help with your setup info and what you did. I have not see anyone really do this, most people with 11 wide wheels stick out past the fender or are just in line with it.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...15s-tires.html

 

thanks.

 

Rim diameter won't matter, as long as the wheel clears the brakes. Just requires a different height sidewall. Backspacing is the biggest thing to deal with.

That being said....My 17" x 11" w/315s tuck perfectly inwards by a good 3/4" to 1".
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/whee...els-315-a.html

 

im sure you can get a 18x11 to fit.

however, in the 18" diameter, anything over a 295 and below a 335 width are few and far between, maybe 3-4 tires. I personally would shoot for a 10 or 10.5 with a 295. there are a shat load of tire choices, and you wont have to do a lot of work to fit them.

I have 18x12 with 335 tucked like stock, but with massive inner fenderwell modification.

As for traction, you wont have much, i dont care what tire you use, the sidewall is too short to hook very well. Im just using bfg kdw tires and i can blow them off with ease with only 500 crank horsepower.

 

In front it plays a huge part in possible rim width when you do anything wider then 9.5".

 

i am skeptical about this as well. are you sure that if you dropped your car your wheels tuck inward by 3/4-1" because I HIGHLY doubt that is possible with only a rolled fender lip. if this were true then why did you only go with a 315 and not a 335 ?

 

If your going to throw a flag, be prepared to back it up with a statement & a reason.

AND.....You will also notice my post was in reference to my REAR tires.



#1.....You can be skeptical all you want to. But I have PHYSICALLY done this myself & looked at the car itself (after all, it is my car).

#2.....I didn't roll my fender lips. In fact, I didn't touch the fender lips at all. I only "massaged" the inner fenders. And the car IS dropped.

#3.....Why did I go with 315s vs 335s? Only a 20 MILLIMETER (not very much, huh?) difference. 315s were $115/each. Cheapest 335s are $210/each. Basically 2 315s were the cost of ONE 335. Is 20 millimeters of tire width worth double the price? NO.......'nuff said!

 

and you are using a factory width rear end? i am not saying you are lying i just want to make sure everything you did so I can do it too because the body shop is telling me it isnt possible but they are just being lazy and speaking before measuring.

what are you tire sizes? not only width but the sidewall height? i just want to compare heights to me using 18's

 

Since you like to talk about stuff that you have actually done, how about the 18x10.5 wheels I have front and back? Or the 305/35/18 tires I have front and back? If you can prove you can get a 16x10+ or 17x10+ wheel on the front then I will be more then happy to remove my "bs" flag. Oh, and make them tuck inside the fender lip too..

Yeah, that's what I thought. Can't really be done can it? To go that wide in the front, you HAVE TO use an 18" diameter wheel or larger in order to clear the tie rod and strut. I would also add pictures to help with my reasons for the "bs" flag, but my computer is moving pretty slow right now.

In what I qouted, you never mentioned anything about the rear of the car so I was playing dumb to make you realize how it can and will be taken the wrong way to someone who just breezes through this thread without reading everything in it. The thing I don't get is that you mention "masssaging" and "dropping" but you never actually give any numbers so as far as I'm concerned, you are just blowing smoke up peoples *****. After all, if want me to put reasons for what I write, how about you be a little less vague about what you write.

You talk about 20 millimeters not being much when in fact it is. That is almost one inch of difference and when you get to the point of running 10+" in the back, you have to start being a little careful where you put things. For some cars, 20mm could mean the difference between pulling out a hammer to make room or doing a mini tub on their car.

By the way, what are the specs of your 315 tires? Can you give me a link to tirerack for them? I would love to see how they compare to the more common performance oriented street tires. I know you can't base much off of the asthetics of the tread pattern, but your rear tires look like all-seasons.

 

Here are my tires I got from Tirerack. com Sumitomos

I have the stock rear end in my car. Your body shop is not thinking outside of the box. No, they won't fit stock bodywork. It requires a saw, a hammer & a welder. Shop wanted to charge me $500 to do both sides. Screw that. I did it for free. I just wanted to see how cheap they'd do it & save me the trouble.

 

It has been done already.....
17" x 11" on ALL 4 CORNERS

I have a whole thread about it. Not smoke......My thread w/pics. What #s do you want? My wheel widths & backspacings are in my sig so......?

20 millimeters is only .78". Is double the cost of a tire worth .78 inch? Not to me, that's for sure!

I was pretty clear why I went with 315s vs 335s.....
"#3.....Why did I go with 315s vs 335s? Only a 20 MILLIMETER (not very much, huh?) difference. 315s were $115/each. Cheapest 335s are $210/each. Basically 2 315s were the cost of ONE 335. Is 20 millimeters of tire width worth double the price? NO.......'nuff said!"

And if I go to 335s, I won't do to do a mini-tub, or any more cutting or hammering.


My tire are "all-season" because my car IS an "all season" car. It is not only my daily driver, but is my ONLY car. I don't even own a second car to drive.
Tirerack.com Sumitomos

For half the price on a DAILY DRIVER, they suit ME & MY DRIVING perfectly fine.

 

I already knew about that car. Once again, you only half read what I wrote... you missed the part about "tucking inside the fender lip." Maybe my eyes went bad over the last 5 minutes, but it sure looks like those front tires are sticking outside the fender lip.


What numbers?? How about numbers for the drop and massaging? How much is your car dropped? How far did you move the stock metal during your massaging? Those numbers would be helpful to anyone planning on doing this. If nothing else, you could at least provide a link your build thread when you mention it. I also knew about your thread, but many people do not.


I never even brought up your tire width decision. I agree with you, it was smart to save all that money for ~1.5" of width. I was only referring to the 0.78" in general. With the 4th gen rear, C5 Z06 rear wheels, and 305 rubber, my setup just barely clears the stock bump stop. I plan to trim that a little or even cut it off and relocate the bumpstop to the shock to give myself some wiggle room (literally). For someone looking for a bolt on wide wheel for their car, the extremely small clearance I have by my bumpstop may prevent them from doing the swap, hence my comment about the hammer vs mini tub. You can't really move the bumpstop enough with just a hammer... you'll need the tools similar to what would be needed for a mini tub.


I wasn't trying to bash you or your tires with what I said. I was actually curious about them. I figured if they make other sizes I may want to look into them since they are cheap. Especially if they were comparable to other well known performance tires. My IROC is also my only car and my daily driver. I just happen to push it's limits pretty often on tracks. In the winter, I just use public transportation.

 

I have Ground Control Weight Jacks, so there isn't really any "1.5" drop springs" that I can say. All I can do is show you where I ended up at.



As far as how much metal I removed....Look at your bumpstop & that "ridge" above it. I took that ridge out. Maybe 1.5"? And some trimming to the front of the wheelwell lower corner inside plus some mini sledge beating.


My bumpstops are GONE. Not just the rubber unbolted, but I completely cut off the mount too & yet I never bottom out or hit anything. I don't regret removing them one bit.

I live way out in the country. 45 minutes, one way, to go grocery shopping! At least I enjoy what I drive! No public transportation here. You can call a taxi for out here, but you'd hafta PAY for it. Cheaper to buy another car!

I'd go run at the local autocross club, but it starts early & would require me to drive 2+ hours (depending on where they were running that month) and it just isn't worth it to me. I haven't run autocross in about 8 years & 5 yrs ago things REALLY changed for me & my ability to drive at the level needed to run autocross. So I just play on my twisty back roads out here.