18x10.5's all 4 corners
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Here is a shot of the engine bay... Everything that wasn't necessary was removed. Interior only has a driver seat and is stripped of carpet/sound deadening and most of the interior panels. Dash, and the door panels/windows are all still intact. Apparently there's about 75lbs in each door to lose by removing the glass/regulator assemblies.. I will go there eventually, but they are still in place at the moment.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
rlewi771, I'd like to here your input also, how well do you think that combo would fit? What made you decide on the wheel and tire sizes you did vs something wider? Thank you in advance.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
all that stuff is so much money like 700$ a rim then u gotta add tires man!
i might go the zo6 corvette rim route can get those for like 500$ on ebay for all 4
i might go the zo6 corvette rim route can get those for like 500$ on ebay for all 4
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
If you can get actual GM corvette wheels you should be ok but beware of reproductions.
Last edited by plum92_camaro; 03-02-2015 at 09:04 PM.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Some of the OEM 'Vette wheels are great: strong, light, good-looking, and affordable. Unfortunately, you need adapters to make them fit our cars. If you're worried about unsprung weight, the adapters cancel the weight savings of light wheels. My 2" adapters weighed 4.1 lbs each.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Stan is one his screen names (frrax.com). His screen name here is BIG_MODS. Find one of his posts and click the links in his signature. He was featured in Hot Rod.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
18x10.5 or 18x10 can fit lowered and or stock height
Remember he is running wilwood bbk which will increase front track width
Stick brake setup would most then lickly need larger spacer for front due to that
Any slip on under 1/4" will not need longer wheel studs but it wouldn't hurt either
If you need bigger your going to need a bolt on adapter
Now you can possibly avoid that depending on specs of wheels you get I haven't seen what they offer in that aspect so can't say if there a true bolt on deal for 10.5 for stock brake setup
All and all it all comes down to well specs and a little measuring and research on your part
But 10.5 will fit like a glove if you do it right
Pic in my sig are 18x10 on sportlines
Remember he is running wilwood bbk which will increase front track width
Stick brake setup would most then lickly need larger spacer for front due to that
Any slip on under 1/4" will not need longer wheel studs but it wouldn't hurt either
If you need bigger your going to need a bolt on adapter
Now you can possibly avoid that depending on specs of wheels you get I haven't seen what they offer in that aspect so can't say if there a true bolt on deal for 10.5 for stock brake setup
All and all it all comes down to well specs and a little measuring and research on your part
But 10.5 will fit like a glove if you do it right
Pic in my sig are 18x10 on sportlines
So if I need a spacer, what side, how long of studs etc? I wouldn't even know where to go to start taking measurements.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Thats a clean car!
You got alot of work done in the engine bay. Cover panel for the header/AC, smoothed seems and filled/smoothed the battery tray areas.
Diggin the rims too... the edge is really large though as already stated and makes the 18 look tiny. I would have prob went 19-20 to counter that. I just got my 20s in yesterday.
I got a question about the front brakes. Are they 13 or 14"? Im worried my 13" BAERs won't fill the 20's like it did with the 17s obviously. So I might have to go 14-14.5s.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
18's are functional for autoX/RR thirdgens. Spending the big money on Welds is insurance that your spokes won't break in a corner which can happen with cheap chinese knockoffs. 19's and larger are more for visual or cosmetic if thats your thing.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
bingo. But thats why I have different sets of lighter rims and bigger DRs for drag racing. I get to have the look I want for the street and shows and then throw on the big sticky meats for the track. Can't drive around much on soft compounds as they wear to fast for the intended purpose.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Did you have to do any clearancing to prevent rubbing anywhere front or rear? I just got mine and looks like i'm gonna have to do some work on the rear to prevent contact
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Nope, my 20x10s fit with nothing but spacers/adapters. I did however remove the rear bump stops and cut the small bracket out of the wheel well previously. I run a .5" spacer in the rear and a 1.25" adapter on the front. But my rims are ford bolt pattern and my rear is a ford 8.8 which is 1.5" wider per side than the stock 3rd generation rear.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Love the look of this car. What kind of BS would be needed if I wanted to go with an 8" front and 10" rear in 18" diameter? I don't want to run spacers or adapters unless the spacer if the factory one.
if I can't get the specs I need in 18" then I guess I will have to settle for 17"
if I can't get the specs I need in 18" then I guess I will have to settle for 17"
#121
Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
So no one at this point as a recipe for 18x11 square?
You can run this on a 4th gen with only minor fender rolling type modifications. I always thought you should be able to make this happen on a 3rd gen also. I thought DSE ran this on their test car before wrecking it, but I never had the opportunity to talk to Kyle at a race and verify.
You can run this on a 4th gen with only minor fender rolling type modifications. I always thought you should be able to make this happen on a 3rd gen also. I thought DSE ran this on their test car before wrecking it, but I never had the opportunity to talk to Kyle at a race and verify.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
I now run 18x9.5s on all 4 with tons of clearance. I might go 10.5" in the rear down the road but Its not necessary at the moment. 2.5" spacer should hold a 11" rim in the back and be close the the edge of the rear quarter.
Up front is a different story... prob also a 2.5-3" spacer to clear the strut but Idk how far that will poke it out and how it will rub at full chock.
4th gens are wider in the wheel well areas.
Up front is a different story... prob also a 2.5-3" spacer to clear the strut but Idk how far that will poke it out and how it will rub at full chock.
4th gens are wider in the wheel well areas.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
An 18x10.5 will fit the rear with only a little hammering on the front lower part of the wheel well. Anything more requires the bumpstop area to be cut back, then eventually a minitub If you go wider.
A 10.5 will fit the front without trimming the fenders. An 11 will not unless you tuck it as close to the strut as possible and at that point you may have enough wheel flex to rub the strut if your pushing It, and the tie rod needs to be relocated.
A 10.5 will fit the front without trimming the fenders. An 11 will not unless you tuck it as close to the strut as possible and at that point you may have enough wheel flex to rub the strut if your pushing It, and the tie rod needs to be relocated.
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
They have to be hammered, if you need the clearance, and that will crack the paint even if you use Gorilla tape. BTDT. The other option is to drill the spot welds, then roll, then re-weld. That'll hurt the paint also. Did some of that replacing the LR quarter panel on my '94 Camaro last spring ( 2015 )
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Re: 18x10.5's all 4 corners
Thanks for the compliments everyone.
John- spoke to caliper clearance is nearly two inches
I will bring out the Go Pro and get some video, hopefully someone will be there to get some pictures of me on track. Usually there is somebody out there snappin pics.
I went with 6.6'' back space for all 4. Whether that will work for you or not i cant say for sure. I have a big brake kit up front which adds to the front track width, then I have two piece rotors which add a little more. 6.5'' seems to be the standard backspacing for stock rears for people trying to squeeze wide wheels/tires. I measured to make sure 6.6'' would work and then checked the fronts and knew it would be close but need a spacer. After receiving the wheels I just used some cheap slip on spacers i already had in order to determine what would work best on the front, then after knowing the exact diameter spacer i needed, I had a custom one made. Worked well for me...
So far no rubbing on the street. I can turn the front wheels lock to lock and dont have a rub. I've cycled the suspension through its entire range of motion and all appears to be ok. Now, out on the track with heavy cornering forces and tire growth, we will see. I assume to have some rubbing here and there but I dont think it will be enough to cut into a tire. If I were worried about rubbing issues, no way would I have put on a 295.
The 295-30-18 is only 25'' tall, which in my case is a benefit for the packaging purposes. If i'm at full bump and on the bumpstops, i'll have a little more clearance than a stock height or larger tire.
John- spoke to caliper clearance is nearly two inches
I will bring out the Go Pro and get some video, hopefully someone will be there to get some pictures of me on track. Usually there is somebody out there snappin pics.
I went with 6.6'' back space for all 4. Whether that will work for you or not i cant say for sure. I have a big brake kit up front which adds to the front track width, then I have two piece rotors which add a little more. 6.5'' seems to be the standard backspacing for stock rears for people trying to squeeze wide wheels/tires. I measured to make sure 6.6'' would work and then checked the fronts and knew it would be close but need a spacer. After receiving the wheels I just used some cheap slip on spacers i already had in order to determine what would work best on the front, then after knowing the exact diameter spacer i needed, I had a custom one made. Worked well for me...
So far no rubbing on the street. I can turn the front wheels lock to lock and dont have a rub. I've cycled the suspension through its entire range of motion and all appears to be ok. Now, out on the track with heavy cornering forces and tire growth, we will see. I assume to have some rubbing here and there but I dont think it will be enough to cut into a tire. If I were worried about rubbing issues, no way would I have put on a 295.
The 295-30-18 is only 25'' tall, which in my case is a benefit for the packaging purposes. If i'm at full bump and on the bumpstops, i'll have a little more clearance than a stock height or larger tire.
Thanks,
Tony
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