I do not know how to post pics on here yet so I will put these pics on my site then link to them. This thing starts to HOWL at 2500 RPM and just gets louder!

 

..and if you had a link to your site...booya! I could have a little look-see....

 

Wheres the link?!

------------------
1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Msd Blaster 2 Coil, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Coming Up
Hei conversion, Msd digital 6, Stock Cowl Induction Hood, K&N Filter w/ Xtreme Air Lid
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

 

I finally got geocities to upload it. It will be here in a matter of minutes...

 

finally here it is. Never had this much trouble with geocities before... http://www.geocities.com/generationx...3rdgenCAI.html

Forgot to mention this cost me around $26 bucks today at lowes. Another $3.50 for the other 2 elbows and major $$$ for the 2 K&Ns.

[This message has been edited by Camaro_hunter_d (edited December 05, 2001).]

 

Hunter , To bad you can't rip out the turn-signals huh ? It would really be kicken then !!!!
Wayne

 

All i have to say is HOLY HELL! What size PVC is that?

------------------
1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Msd Blaster 2 Coil, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Coming Up
Hei conversion, Msd digital 6, Stock Cowl Induction Hood, K&N Filter w/ Xtreme Air Lid
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

[This message has been edited by Graeme'sFirebird (edited December 05, 2001).]

 

LOL all 3 inch. I found a true y connector by shear luck and bought 10 feet of 3 inch tubing and the 2 45's. When I ge tthe $$$ for the 2 K&N's I will get the other 2 45's and finish it.

And I do plan on relocating the turn signals to the front grill and enlarging the old openings and run ram air though that BEAST!. Thats got volume baby. It almost felt like I lost some of third gear, but I thin I though that becuse that helped free 2nd to pull more. And boy does IT PULL!.

I think if I had my old tires on I would do more than "Chirp" Third... These freggin meats I got on now though I am good to do 2nd!.

 

CAN U LIOST EVERTHING U USED,THE SIZES AND THE PROCEDURE?
THANX

DJ
PS THAT IS SOME SICK SH*T YOU MADE

 

ok Parts list... All these are 3 inch I.D. PVC
True Y connector....$3.47
45 Deg Elbows.......$1.47 ea. so roughly $3
3 inch rubber connector(NOT ADAPTER roughly 4-5 inches long)....$5.87?
10 feet of straight tubing....$10.87

Proceedures....
Cut a 3.5-4" length off the 10 foot tube.
Run this into the Y.
Get the connector and take off the clamps and put it over the ube you just put into the Y. Push it untill it's flush against the Y main body.
Cut 2 8" lengths off the 10 foot length and puth them into the Y.
Mount the Y onto the throttle body and tighten it down.
Take the 2 45 deg elbows and line them up pointing slightly down what used to be the home of the battery one one side and the charcoal filter on the other.
Your done as far as I have gotten.
With the 2 other 45's you point them down so you can run a length of tubing down through the freashly removed trays that the batt and filter used to sit on.

AS I said before this came out to like 26 and change. Ad another $3 for the other 2 45 elbows and your under $30 overall. The K&N's are another story. I already have a rough idea of the ram air componets. being 2 air duct flat elbows(If you go to lowes, ect you will see what I mean) 4x6 opening that has a 45 deg layback offset with a 4 inch round opening. Just big enough for the K&N cone to sliiiiiiide right in. then get a 4"-3" adapter and the system is sealed. Maybe some RTV for good measure though. But talk about MASS AIR FLOW.


HE HE you expect to see this on a Z or somethin?...LOL

I do plan on painting this silver to help with the heat factor but I think the shear flow negates any real heat problem.

I have it out of the car and I am looking at it now and thinking good *** what have I done? This thing is almost 3 feet across!(28.5") measuring at the narrowest points!. Honestly I was just happy it fit under the hood!. I just want to clean the hard edges off the outside, make it look more smooth. But damn it looks good!.



[This message has been edited by Camaro_hunter_d (edited December 05, 2001).]

 

The K&N's are gonna be about 45 each

------------------
1972 Chevy Chevelle "Malibu"
Hooker Headers, Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, accel 8.8 wires,Edelbrock performer intake Edelbrock Carb, Msd Blaster 2 Coil, Torque Thrust "D" wheels
Coming Up
Hei conversion, Msd digital 6, Stock Cowl Induction Hood, K&N Filter w/ Xtreme Air Lid
Click here for my Malibu information
In Memory of #3 Dale Earnhardt

 

nice work, and way to build upon what i already have. the reason i didn't "y" mine is because of the battery. i know they have relocation kits, but say you put it in the trunk, how the heck do you get the battery cables in there w/o drilling a hole somewhere, i would really hate to do that. but anyway....looks real nice, now if i can figure out what to do with the battery i would def. "y" mine.

and your right, with my 3" intake running just to the passenger side it you just hear it GULPING the air in.....hehehehehe....

 

If you really want air filters, you can go pick up FRAM ones that go for 95-up 4.0 L OHV Explorers, they look conical, and I bet you could mount them easily with that. Or ones for Expeditions. Those are huge!

Cool setup man, I wonder if that would pass for smog here.....

------------------
Stock 2.8 MPFI auto w/ Flowmaster 80 Series, More to come......
Pioneer DEH-11
Targa E-910 7-Band Equalizer w/ crossover
2x 10" Pioneer subs powered by 300 Watt Jensen amp
2- 6x9" Pioneer (rear)
More to come..... (hey, i dont got a job yet)

 

Well I went to lowes and they do not have what I want. I talked a guy there and he gave me the number to a fabricator. I am going to have 3x10 inch ducts with a 3inch outlet at a 45 deg angle layback made. Right now I am tring to find a square or oval K&N that is 3 inches by 10 inches. I am just going to cut it in half and shove them into the openings. Then I have to get the batt relocation. I am just going to take out that little lead oval panel in our "trunks" and cut the carpet and run the wires like that. I do not feel like cutting metal.


This has turned out to be quite a project. But one that will reap rewards. I have noticed my car running a little leaner though... Maybe thats a good thing?. Not alot just a LED bar or 2... I know now that I will need those headers and cat back so I can hear the exhaust over the intake!. Man that thing gets LOUD!. I had 4 people look at my car today like WTF IS IN THAT!(As I was passing them). I just laughed...
Somewhere else in the head BING! take out that little lead/cheapo metal panel and run the wires, then get some figerglass(From lowes) and seal it up.

Don't worry I only drove it to lowes and back before putting the "real" intake back on... man I had to take it easy today too cause it was raining. This thing wanted to break loose every time I tapped the gas. Can't wait to see what happens with the RAM AIR!.

I am going to rivet the ducts to the urathane bumper around where I will cut out the opening. I may be better off having that guy make the outlet go straight back?... Hmm have to take a looksy. hmm wonder how much air can be forced through a 6 x 10 inch opening anyway?... Thats basically what I'm doing anyway... All I know is it has to be ALOT!.

[This message has been edited by Camaro_hunter_d (edited December 06, 2001).]

 

Go to an exhaust shopand they will bend you 3'' pipe like that. You won't have the bulges where PVC Joins..

 

Well I ripped off my front clip yesterday and started the ram air introduction.

I never knew that the front clip would be such a PITA to take off!. But anyway its off and I have had to remove the radiator overflow and the washer bottle to get the pipes to fit "Just Right" I will see if I can put them back after the ram air is installed. I have started to fiberglass the grill over to make it smoothed out and I am mounting the turn signals vertically on the ends. I will post pics on my site when I get time. And I must say this I HATE THE HOLIDAYS!

 

i do too

 

Ok, this was my idea but you did a hell of a job Now my question is don't you got a MAF sensor and that smaller sensor. Where you putting them, or do you need them I thought you did. You got a camero I believe maybe they dont come equipped. Well anyways on my 89 bird I do where do you recommend I put them. Also what part number will you use for the KNAirfilters.

 

And you call yourself a F-body enthusiast

 

Camaro_hunter_d I love the setup. For some strange reason I have been thinking about this setup for a while and how I was gonig to do it in May once I got back to work. I was thinking along the lines of using 2.5inch pipe and buyin the 2.5=3.0 inch for where the K&N's hook on. just cause I was wondering about the space it would take. But I see the 3" will work fine.

Nice work.

 

OK I took the pic's this mourning and I will try to get them on my site tonight. I took around 7-8 I think. Anyway I finally got the thing running after the batt relocation as well. The final parts list.

This is in 3" ABS Plastic as well NOT PVC.....
1. 10 foot section.
2. 2 45* elbows.
3. 4 90* elbows.
4. 1 Y(TRUE Y NOT Straight and a branch off) Hard to find I got lucky.
5. Remove batt, rad overflow and washer bottle tanks.
6. Remove around 14 Spot welds from the mounting plates on EACH SIDE(BIG PITA TRUST ME)
7. 24x36" 22 guage flat steel (to make ducts)
8. I forgot the name but heavy duty plastiglue(1. Qrt can)
9. I have the master layout at home for the ducts with the measurements and whatnot will post tonight if I get the chance.
10. 2 Fram 7017 air filters.
11. 12x18 1/2 inch expanded grating
12. roughly 20' (20 Feet) of 4 guage primary wire to relocate batt)
13. 4 cable ends. I used the eyelet type for amps.
14. 1 3"x4-5" rubber connector. To go from Y to throttle body.
15. 1 pack of fiberglas cloth.
16. 1 pack of fiberglass matt.
17. Fiberglass resin. 1/2 gallon or so.

As far as exact measurments for cutting the ABS Tubes... I have yet to take them. I roughed all this out on the spot while making this set up. I will try to make some sort of diagram tonight and scan it for you guys. I will try to have it make sense. Both side's take different measurments I KNOW THAT. Don't ask why, they just do. I am still tring to shave this and that so I can reinstall both the rad over flow and the washer tanks. I removed the front clip, I found it alot easier to get the stuff worked around inside behind the mask. I will sit down sometime and work out all the instructions later..

 

As I am writing this Pagebuilder is loading and I am putting those pics on my site. I have 5 good ones that I am putting on. These are after the nose has already been put back on though. I test drove it tonight and 2nd is amazing!. I now need ignition upgrades to stop the 3-4th bogging down, it's real bad right now. I also need to get these tubes remade in metal so I can run different filters(Heat shielded reactive) and force more air into the ducts. I can now do more then "Chirp" second... try spin at will.!

 

As I am writing this Pagebuilder is loading and I am putting those pics on my site. I have 5 good ones that I am putting on. These are after the nose has already been put back on though. I test drove it tonight and 2nd is amazing!. I now need ignition upgrades to stop the 3-4th bogging down, it's real bad right now. I also need to get these tubes remade in metal so I can run different filters(Heat shielded reactive) and force more air into the ducts. I can now do more then "Chirp" second... try spin at will.!

 

Now, how can that be adapted to a 1986 Firebird with a MAF and that little sensor thingy??

 

Who's engine compartment looks like this:

 

Man this new IMG insert is easy I love it!
Looks like a good setup that works!
SSC

 

I have decided on a way to get the reative heat shielded filters to work. Get about 6 inches of 3" OD exhaust tubing(cut into 2 3inch sections) Get the smallest amount of 4" PVC/ABS you can. You only need 2 1/2 inch sections. Get a 3" to 4" rubber adapter(From Lowes ect).

Run the 3 inch exhaust tubing into the PVC/ABS and run the back end of the filter to it. On the induction side of the filter put one of those 1/2 wide sections over the filter opening(They have a 1/2-3/4" flat section) and use the rubber adapter to go between the filter and the rest of the ram air tube.


Now as far as this "MAF" thing is concerned I do not know if they are perfectly round or not, if not you can jimmy mount it in the throttle body-Y rubber adapter. If round no problems finding a section to mount it to between 2 pieces of ABS/PVC

The IAT drill a hole on the appropriate side and screw it in.

Right now I have my filters mounted almost on the outside of the car and it pushes more air out over the bumper then in, At least I know I can get a more effective "RAM" with the Reatives Installed with the deep openings of the scoopes grabbing more air.

 

My engine bay looks like that. I had a theory on this setup and what I was going to do was the same idea except attach the MAF sensor inbetween the front of the intake, and the end of the PVC, like this:






Camaro_hunter_d I was wondering if you could take a picture upclose of where the PVC joins onto the Intake?

 

I used a 5-6" long 3" diameter rubber adapter/connector from Lowes. NOT the one with the metal band in the middle. This one just has 2 band clamps at either end. ALOT EASIER to work with.

Was 10-11 Bucks I think. But O well it works right?
I got the other elbow for the system today and I am going to finish the thing tomarrow after the resin dries and perminately mounts my turn signals into my grill. When I mount that other 90* I will take a few measurements and post them. I know my under hood temps were way low considering the one duct was missing that 1 90* but was still grabbing the helloutta the outside air.


I also went by Midas today to see how much they would charge to make the PVC Tubes INTO exhaust tubing. $15 Per 45* bend 20-25 per 90* which would be 4 of them!. So automatically $130 before the freggin tubes bought!. Hell for that much they better include the tube!

 

ok guys .... what happens if u have a MAF sensor and a IAT sensor .... i dont have enough space in the front to mount that Y tube ... os my MAF to radiaor distance is very small

89 camaro has a MAF running to a dual intake ...

???

and how good are fram 7017
???

is it just for testin or are u guys gonna run that one

 

Well you may be able to get a tight radius 90 and run that "Y" Inverted???? That should leave you room to mess with. I have already said where I am putting the IAT.

The Fram filters are PURELY TEMPORARY( I HATE FRAM IT'S ( RAP) I am working on getting to heat shielded reatives to fit inline with the Y.

 

ok tell me this

where do i put the filter ... ahead of the battery

I cant reallocate the battery

 

... Why can't you relocate the batt? Anyway If you can't relocate the batt you can run single 90 to the oppisite side of where the batt is, remove whats there, cut out that plate(Its a PITA) and mount the filter on the end of the tube under that plate opening, that at least would be CAI. throttle body-90* to side your going to-45* to get it centered over the plate opening-90* to drop the intake tube under the plate-mount your filter there. It will suck the air from under the car.

 

He is right cutting the plate is the BEST way to do it. I just cant find myself cutting part of the car I want to though.

 

Actually theres 14-16 Spot welds to drill, then the plate falls to the garage floor with a resounding clang! It's just GETTING to all of thew welds is a major PITA.

 

You dont want to take the plate completely off though. What would be the best thing to do is have piping going over to the intake side and have it go down to a 3" hole in the plate and have 3 arms coming off the pipe so you can screw it down so it doesn't move. Have another pipe pointing straight down from the bottem of the plate and have maybe 4 screws holding it so it doesnt fall. Then just put you a cone filter on the end and you have a REAL cold air intake. I think it would work VERY good but I just cant bring myself to cut a 3" hole in the plate but if you did that and didn't take the plate all the way off you would 1: still have a place for the charcoal canister and 2: it would make a sheild so that no hot air could reach the filter. If anyone wants to try this I can guarantee you will notice it pulls alot better.

 

I can vouce for that cause I did it! But I have mine as a ram air so.... But when I get the $$$ for these reatives I am going to complete the system so BOTH sides are hooked up and it will look alot better from the outside without that POS FRAM sitting there. 2 ducts painted aluminum, 1/2 inch exrtuded grating painted aluminum then all duct to the tube!

(P.S. Monkey its bigger then a 3" if you are using PVC/ABS 1/4 inch thick so add 1/2 inch... Unless you wanted to run just the exhaust tube through the opening to the filter, but then your car will have to up in the air every time you want to remove the filter for cleaning.)

 

ok guys ,,,
my car under the hood looks like (its from a v8 someone 's v8)

but its the same intake system....

do u want me to abandon waht i have and go with the pipe going to the side....

or do u want me to cut the airbox below this

 

Thats a good setup but there is better. Something that might make yours better is get a heat shield blanket thing from summit and cut it and put it under the intake so the radiator doesnt make it as hot. Just an idea.

 

I would not abondon it yet. I would try it. Then if you want try this later. You may notice a difference between the 2 of them.
If you go to my website that posted somewhere above you will find how I did mine. I did not have that setup you posted the pic of, I would think that the plastic would get hot no matter what you did cause it makes contact with the radiator(You can some what shield the intake air from the rad, but you will get conductive heat no matter what you did so I think what I and Monkey did is a better design, I just took it further), and you cant move it so it does'nt. Mine runs about 2-3 inches behind the top of the rad, so I know it does not get very hot. After I get the $$$ for the 2 reactives I am going to hook those up and then after I get more $$$ I am going to have the entire system remade in exhaust tubing(3") and have that wrapped in heat shielding.