Are there any SFC's out there besides ALSTON who actually connect the subframe ??
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From: Kona, Hawaii / Redlands, CA
Car: 91' RS
Engine: Built 355
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
Are there any SFC's out there besides ALSTON who actually connect the subframe ??
Just wondering. I have had Jegsters, they suck. I got some LG Motorsports ones for my 4th gen and they rock.
I hear Alstons are good but was also wondering if there are any alternatives. I also hear Spohns are good but do not actually connect the subframe either.
I bet the Competition engineering bolt ons are just like the Jegsters. I want tubular ones because they seem to be stronger IMO.
I hear Alstons are good but was also wondering if there are any alternatives. I also hear Spohns are good but do not actually connect the subframe either.
I bet the Competition engineering bolt ons are just like the Jegsters. I want tubular ones because they seem to be stronger IMO.
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Re: Are there any SFC's out there besides ALSTON who actually connect the subframe ??
Originally posted by 330hp_91RS
I hear Alstons are good but was also wondering if there are any alternatives. I also hear Spohns are good but do not actually connect the subframe either.
I hear Alstons are good but was also wondering if there are any alternatives. I also hear Spohns are good but do not actually connect the subframe either.
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
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well i dont have ALL SFCs but doesnt it stand to reason that subframe connectors connect the subframes? i know my spohn ones do. they are welded right on there and tacked along the floorboards.
maybe im confused?
maybe im confused?
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Originally posted by NJITIROC
well i dont have ALL SFCs but doesnt it stand to reason that subframe connectors connect the subframes? i know my spohn ones do. they are welded right on there and tacked along the floorboards.
maybe im confused?
well i dont have ALL SFCs but doesnt it stand to reason that subframe connectors connect the subframes? i know my spohn ones do. they are welded right on there and tacked along the floorboards.
maybe im confused?
Let me clarify the difference of Alstons to Spohns.
Alstons are only good for drag racing. Why? They have an inadequate design to prevent lateral twist. They only support front to rear stiffness, thus designed for weight transfer on launch. The inboard design still allows for the car to twist like a wet rag being wrung out during cornering.
Spohns SFC's are an outer rail design with inboard ties for lateral support, as well as the outer radial stiffness helps prevent chassis twist (does not eliminate, only helps greater to prevent- Only a full cage installed with proper triangulates will eliminate chassis twist entirely.) The only ill effect spohns units have to handling over Alstons is polar weight (thats more weight/distance from CG) But this is very minor in relation to the major improvement of chassis stiffness and overall tire contact patches.
Last edited by AGood2.8; Nov 5, 2003 at 10:44 PM.
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From: Long Beach, CA
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
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Originally posted by NJITIROC
well i dont have ALL SFCs but doesnt it stand to reason that subframe connectors connect the subframes? i know my spohn ones do. they are welded right on there and tacked along the floorboards.
maybe im confused?
well i dont have ALL SFCs but doesnt it stand to reason that subframe connectors connect the subframes? i know my spohn ones do. they are welded right on there and tacked along the floorboards.
maybe im confused?
Last edited by drop-top IROC; Nov 5, 2003 at 10:59 PM.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
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Originally posted by drop-top IROC
well... sort of. The Spohn units connect TO the front subframe, but they DO NOT connect the front subframe to the rear subframe. They only triangulate the front subframe to the outer rail and stiffen the chassis along the rail. If you're undecided, why not run both!? (it can be done)
well... sort of. The Spohn units connect TO the front subframe, but they DO NOT connect the front subframe to the rear subframe. They only triangulate the front subframe to the outer rail and stiffen the chassis along the rail. If you're undecided, why not run both!? (it can be done)
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Dean,
I'm with ya on the connection to the front subframe (lateral piece from the rail to the subframe), but I'm not quite seeing the connection to the rear- at least, not directly.

BTW, those are some pretty f**kin beefy lookin' SFC's ya got there...
I'm with ya on the connection to the front subframe (lateral piece from the rail to the subframe), but I'm not quite seeing the connection to the rear- at least, not directly.

BTW, those are some pretty f**kin beefy lookin' SFC's ya got there...
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by drop-top IROC
Dean,
I'm with ya on the connection to the front subframe (lateral piece from the rail to the subframe), but I'm not quite seeing the connection to the rear- at least, not directly.

BTW, those are some pretty f**kin beefy lookin' SFC's ya got there...
Dean,
I'm with ya on the connection to the front subframe (lateral piece from the rail to the subframe), but I'm not quite seeing the connection to the rear- at least, not directly.

BTW, those are some pretty f**kin beefy lookin' SFC's ya got there...
Heres where the rear ties in- Directly to where it counts, the LCA mounts. Thats where the forward thrust comes from the axle to push the car/ The tq arm lifts the car, the LCA's push it.
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From: Bergen County, NJ
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by drop-top IROC
Dean,
I'm with ya on the connection to the front subframe (lateral piece from the rail to the subframe), but I'm not quite seeing the connection to the rear- at least, not directly.

BTW, those are some pretty f**kin beefy lookin' SFC's ya got there...
Dean,
I'm with ya on the connection to the front subframe (lateral piece from the rail to the subframe), but I'm not quite seeing the connection to the rear- at least, not directly.

BTW, those are some pretty f**kin beefy lookin' SFC's ya got there...
i dont think im confused.
am i?
LOL
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Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
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I think I know where yer comin' from now. Makes sense. Guess I'll install both on my 'vert. 
But if it's forward thrust that you're trying to combat, I thought the Alston's were better for that? What about the twisties?
Last edited by drop-top IROC; Nov 5, 2003 at 11:25 PM.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
Car: '87 Chev
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Originally posted by joshwilson3
So which one truly connects the front subframe to the rear subframe? What brands do you prefer and why? I am talking for street driven cars only.
So which one truly connects the front subframe to the rear subframe? What brands do you prefer and why? I am talking for street driven cars only.
The Alstons mount inboard only and are too narrow of support for any benefit of lateral handling. The frame will still twist.
Last edited by AGood2.8; Nov 6, 2003 at 02:37 AM.
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
The S&W ones offer a bit of both. They connect the front and rear subframes as well as have an integral second crossmember and bars that tie into the outer pinchwelds. They could use some more perimeter support to fight off chassis twist, but like Dean said, only cage will solve that problem entirely.
The other benefit is mounting the Torque Arm to the crossmember instead of the trans tailshaft housing..... And the integral driveshaft loop they come with.
Here's a paint-shopped simulated pic of how the S&Ws are laid out:
The other benefit is mounting the Torque Arm to the crossmember instead of the trans tailshaft housing..... And the integral driveshaft loop they come with.
Here's a paint-shopped simulated pic of how the S&Ws are laid out:
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Originally posted by Matt87GTA
The S&W ones offer a bit of both. They connect the front and rear subframes as well as have an integral second crossmember and bars that tie into the outer pinchwelds. They could use some more perimeter support to fight off chassis twist, but like Dean said, only cage will solve that problem entirely.
The other benefit is mounting the Torque Arm to the crossmember instead of the trans tailshaft housing..... And the integral driveshaft loop they come with.
Here's a paint-shopped simulated pic of how the S&Ws are laid out:
The S&W ones offer a bit of both. They connect the front and rear subframes as well as have an integral second crossmember and bars that tie into the outer pinchwelds. They could use some more perimeter support to fight off chassis twist, but like Dean said, only cage will solve that problem entirely.
The other benefit is mounting the Torque Arm to the crossmember instead of the trans tailshaft housing..... And the integral driveshaft loop they come with.
Here's a paint-shopped simulated pic of how the S&Ws are laid out:
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From: DFW
Car: 90 Formula 350
Engine: 350
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Originally posted by drop-top IROC
I think I know where yer comin' from now. Makes sense. Guess I'll install both on my 'vert. 
But if it's forward thrust that you're trying to combat, I thought the Alston's were better for that? What about the twisties?
I think I know where yer comin' from now. Makes sense. Guess I'll install both on my 'vert. 
But if it's forward thrust that you're trying to combat, I thought the Alston's were better for that? What about the twisties?
if you have aconvertible the spohns wont fit as they have addl bracing in that area already!!be sure to chk this out
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
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Originally posted by zman1969
if you have aconvertible the spohns wont fit as they have addl bracing in that area already!!be sure to chk this out
if you have aconvertible the spohns wont fit as they have addl bracing in that area already!!be sure to chk this out
basicly they are 3 straight pieces of tubing... and one tube that has 2 bends in it...... personally, i think its a rip off for $185 but the man has a good rep and can sell it for that price... so whatever.....
http://www.spohn.net/product.cfm?productid=1389
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
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Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
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Originally posted by BackInBlack86
do you know if that setup offers adequate clearance for a stock 3" single exhaust? also, where can S&W parts be purchased?
do you know if that setup offers adequate clearance for a stock 3" single exhaust? also, where can S&W parts be purchased?
I think you have to go through S&W directly.
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Originally posted by MrDude_1
umm.. spohn has convertible SFCs....
umm.. spohn has convertible SFCs....
basicly they are 3 straight pieces of tubing... and one tube that has 2 bends in it...... personally, i think its a rip off for $185 but the man has a good rep and can sell it for that price... so whatever.....
Originally posted by drop-top IROC
Yeah... what he said. The only real difference with the convertible ones is the lateral brace is shorter to compensate for the extra reinforcement that ASC installed along the outer rail.
Yeah... what he said. The only real difference with the convertible ones is the lateral brace is shorter to compensate for the extra reinforcement that ASC installed along the outer rail.
Actually there are some other dimensional differences, they look and run the same, just hold different dimensions to clear the factory braces.
I always like how some people say $185.00 for some tubing. Well, you're buying more then tubing. You're buying labor, insurance, taxes, mortgage, heat, phone, advertising, electric, etc, etc., etc. It's the cost of doing business that has to be figued into prices. The bills gotta get paid to keep the shop running.
Agood2.8 has his act together, couldn't have explained it better myself. I've been biting my tongue for a long time on some of these SFC posts. Besides what was stated, the only thing I would throw in is you will have no ground clearance loss or y-pipe problems with our SFCs.
If you want to see SFCs that don't connect the front and rear subframes, look at the Jeg's.
Steve
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Originally posted by SteveSpohn
Actually there are some other dimensional differences, they look and run the same, just hold different dimensions to clear the factory braces.
I always like how some people say $185.00 for some tubing. Well, you're buying more then tubing. You're buying labor, insurance, taxes, mortgage, heat, phone, advertising, electric, etc, etc., etc. It's the cost of doing business that has to be figued into prices. The bills gotta get paid to keep the shop running.
Agood2.8 has his act together, couldn't have explained it better myself. I've been biting my tongue for a long time on some of these SFC posts. Besides what was stated, the only thing I would throw in is you will have no ground clearance loss or y-pipe problems with our SFCs.
If you want to see SFCs that don't connect the front and rear subframes, look at the Jeg's.
Steve
Actually there are some other dimensional differences, they look and run the same, just hold different dimensions to clear the factory braces.
I always like how some people say $185.00 for some tubing. Well, you're buying more then tubing. You're buying labor, insurance, taxes, mortgage, heat, phone, advertising, electric, etc, etc., etc. It's the cost of doing business that has to be figued into prices. The bills gotta get paid to keep the shop running.
Agood2.8 has his act together, couldn't have explained it better myself. I've been biting my tongue for a long time on some of these SFC posts. Besides what was stated, the only thing I would throw in is you will have no ground clearance loss or y-pipe problems with our SFCs.
If you want to see SFCs that don't connect the front and rear subframes, look at the Jeg's.
Steve
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If you have a 6-speed AND longtube headers (like me), then you are going to want to use the Hotchkis sub-frame connectors due to needing room for y-pipe.
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Originally posted by SteveSpohn
I always like how some people say $185.00 for some tubing. Well, you're buying more then tubing. You're buying labor, insurance, taxes, mortgage, heat, phone, advertising, electric, etc, etc., etc. It's the cost of doing business that has to be figued into prices. The bills gotta get paid to keep the shop running.
Steve
I always like how some people say $185.00 for some tubing. Well, you're buying more then tubing. You're buying labor, insurance, taxes, mortgage, heat, phone, advertising, electric, etc, etc., etc. It's the cost of doing business that has to be figued into prices. The bills gotta get paid to keep the shop running.
Steve
Ok, so I think that the subframe connectors 101 class is officially over... I am hereby enlightened. Thanks to Profs. Dean and Steve for their input.
Originally posted by nolanr0413
i dont wanna hijack the thread but , will a t56 go in with no mods to the alstons and spohn ones. I might put in a t56 and dont wanna have to mod the sfc to clear the diff crossmember.
i dont wanna hijack the thread but , will a t56 go in with no mods to the alstons and spohn ones. I might put in a t56 and dont wanna have to mod the sfc to clear the diff crossmember.
I think I know what you're asking here. If you're installing a T-56, it sits back further in the car, therefore the crossmember will be back further. You will have to mod the crossmember and/or Alston SFCs if you have them in your car.
Our SFCs do not interfere with the transmission crossmember mounting. Hope this answers your question.
Steve
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i think i'm pretty much sold on Spohn products. they'll definitely be getting business from me when i start modding my TA.
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From: Mostly in water off So. Cal
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Originally posted by drop-top IROC
Ok, so I think that the subframe connectors 101 class is officially over... I am hereby enlightened. Thanks to Profs. Dean and Steve for their input.
Ok, so I think that the subframe connectors 101 class is officially over... I am hereby enlightened. Thanks to Profs. Dean and Steve for their input.
I think my best experience in life has been driving my chev 1/2ton work truck. It too is fully modified underneath (and lowered) but I always have a different load in the rear for carrying tools, materials etc.- I'm in the ceramic tile and Marble business, I haul alot of different crap. I set this truck up with on- the- fly adjustable shock and assisted airbag suspension controls and can basically adjust out any push or loose condition based on weight load, or sometimes even weight shift while driving. I even can set it loose or tight just for fun of a chalanging handfull to keep my driving skills sharp. This has made me a very confident driver in any suspension setup and can press any car to its limit because of this experience. Heck, you should see me 4wh drift this truck with 1000# load in the back and still stop on a dime if necessary (binders not stock either)- it embarasses alot of sportscars
Last edited by AGood2.8; Nov 6, 2003 at 09:41 PM.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
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Originally posted by joshwilson3
Hey spohn,
When are you gonna have your Strut Tower Braces ready? Are they gonna be a 3 point and fit a 305 V8 TBi firebird with A/C?
How much will they be and what type of finishes will they have?
thanks
Which front and rear sway bars are better, the TDS or Spohn's? TDS is cheaper than Spohn. Everyone likes TDS wonderbar, so I figure that everyone would want TDS sway bar to go along with it?
Hey spohn,
When are you gonna have your Strut Tower Braces ready? Are they gonna be a 3 point and fit a 305 V8 TBi firebird with A/C?
How much will they be and what type of finishes will they have?
thanks
Which front and rear sway bars are better, the TDS or Spohn's? TDS is cheaper than Spohn. Everyone likes TDS wonderbar, so I figure that everyone would want TDS sway bar to go along with it?
i think he said all his new products are coming out in 04... somthing about moving to a bigger shop..
traditionally, he powdercoats stuff red or black.... id assume that wouldnt change.
wonderbars are just a chassis brace. swaybars are a suspension piece. just because you have one "brand" of wonderbar, doesnt limit your choices for swaybars....
there is no best.
Originally posted by joshwilson3
So which one would you pick, the Spohn or TDS? Spohns front sway bar is $142. TDS front sway bar is $65. Is it worth it to pay double and get the Spohns or pay half and get the TDS. I don't understand the price difference. How would you compare the Spohn vs. the TDS front sway bar?
So which one would you pick, the Spohn or TDS? Spohns front sway bar is $142. TDS front sway bar is $65. Is it worth it to pay double and get the Spohns or pay half and get the TDS. I don't understand the price difference. How would you compare the Spohn vs. the TDS front sway bar?
I believe TDS' bars are stock sway bars powder coated. You can ask Lon, I may be wrong.
Our sway bars are solid 4140 chrome moly, thus the price difference. They're a major upgrade from stock.
Steve
not that i like to jump on bandwagons or anything, but.........
I have been very happy with my spohn SFC's and although i have been to lazy to install my relocating brackets they also are quality. The best part of Spohn besides his high quality good prices and availability to answer questions is his first rate customer service. Its a pleasure doing business with Spohn Performance, i have had too many bad experiences with others. I can't wait to send hime more money in the spring!
I have been very happy with my spohn SFC's and although i have been to lazy to install my relocating brackets they also are quality. The best part of Spohn besides his high quality good prices and availability to answer questions is his first rate customer service. Its a pleasure doing business with Spohn Performance, i have had too many bad experiences with others. I can't wait to send hime more money in the spring!
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