I'd post in electronics but I figured I'd get more people here with hands on experience rather than guesses. I'm just curious what I'd have to do if anything to keep my CC still working.

 

i just did the electronics on my swap yesterday, there is a cc switch and vacuum valve on your brake pedal, as well as a modified brake light switch that includes something for the cc i believe. you need to swap both of these to the brake pedal on your clutch setup, unless it already has both. there may be no easy way of making the cc work with the clutch. most likely your car doesnt have the wiring for it, and if your stupid like me you didnt look for the cc stuff when you were pulling the clutch pedal from the junkyard. if you do have the cc switch on your clutch pedal i imagine you might be able to splice it into the wires going to the identical switch on the brake, but if not i wouldnt worry about it. it just means that you will have to push the brake to stop your cc, you wont have the option of pushing in the clutch to turn it off. chances are your cc system isnt looking for a clutch anyway, it thinks youre automatic.

once you have all the stuff swapped over to the clutch pedals just hook it back up to the original wires and youre good.

i dont have the pedals in my car yet so if you need pictures just ask(they may be going in later today though).

 

From the factory stick cars had a cruise switch on the clutch pedal, and on the brake pedal, as well as the vaccum relief valve. This would deactivate the cruise if you stepped on the brake, or pushed in the clutch.

Automatic cars had a combination brake light cruise control switch on the brake pedal along with the vaccum relief valve.

You've got two options. One, you can just use the switches from your auto pedals and screw them into brake pedal for your stick swap.

Two, you can get the stick switches and re-wire the system to work like a factory stick car. That's the safest way, because otherwise the clutch pedal won't deactive the cruise, and you could overrev the engine by pushing in the clutch and the cruise attempting to maintain the preset speed.

Check out the wiring diagrams on TGO and it will show you how to wire the car as if it had a stick from the factory.

 

if it was me, id just leave everything stock, and add the clutch switch... wire it in so that if the clutch goes in, OR if the brake goes in, it kills it.


you wont NEED to do anything else to allow cruise, but its a very good idea... if you dont wire up the clutch switch, and you push the clutch in with the cruise on, the engine will rev toward redline just as if you left the gas down.... and then it'll push the pedal down slowly because it sees you're slowing down, and it'll try to accelerate.

 

That's the plan, makes perfect sense. Thansk guys.

 

That's how a stock stick car works. The switches are wired in series, so if either switch is activated the cruise deactivates.

 

Just curious, how does removing the computer affect the cc? After looking at the system is it possible to make it work with the ECM removed?

 

The ECM has nothing to do with the cruise control. If you look at the diagrams the cruise control gets a raw VSS signal, just like the ECM, so as long as the VSS signal is going to the cruise control module the system will work. That's how they made it work on non-computer controlled cars, like when carbs were still around.

 

Yeah, I had another thread going where the guy gave me this link. Actually the guy was the one who posted the link. I'm tearing into the wiring harness right now so all electrical info is appreciated.


https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=310552

 

heres my gift to you then.

download every pdf file here with the word dude in it.

its ALL of the wiring for your 91.


http://66.83.134.202/travis/91FbodyWiring/