Having serious problems here.
#1
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Car: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Engine: 4G63T
Transmission: 5 speed
Having serious problems here.
OK, I have a 84 z28 with a 350 pushing about 300hp or so, the transmission stripped out all the foreward clutches and started shifing funny, so I yanked it out, tore it apart and put a rebuild kit in it with new seals/clutches/thrrust berings/etc... ANyways, when I got it all back together it won't shift right now. It'll kindof grab 1st, then it'll rev way up and I have to let off the gas for it to grab second, from then on it works fine, and also when I shift it into OD it doesn't do anything at all... ANy Ideas would be very helpful.
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Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
It kinda sounds like two seperate problems possibly in the same area. The slipping in between 1-2 shift may be caused by a bad band, but since you said you rebuilt it, did you check the servo pin clearance? Install the servo without the return spring and seals and install the cover and snapring, then using an indicator pull the cover up against the snapring and zero it. Then push it down as far as it will go, you want about .060" to .125" leaning more toward the tighter. A real sloppy fit may have enough "power" to hold 2nd, but 4th may not work (possible?)
Also inspect all the teflon seals in the servo area...
If you have too much clearence, you can either get a longer pin or flip the 4th piston (The one right under the cover) over so the nub faces out. This effectivly makes the pin longer, but may be too long and require grinding down the pin to get the .060 to .125" of clearance.
Hope this helps ya.
[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited July 27, 2001).]
Also inspect all the teflon seals in the servo area...
If you have too much clearence, you can either get a longer pin or flip the 4th piston (The one right under the cover) over so the nub faces out. This effectivly makes the pin longer, but may be too long and require grinding down the pin to get the .060 to .125" of clearance.
Hope this helps ya.
[This message has been edited by JoelOl75 (edited July 27, 2001).]
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Did you replace the Input Sprag? That is why the Forwards stripped out.
When you say that in OD it doesn't do anything at all, do you mean just sitting still in the OD position? If so the input sprag is in backwards or is shot.
[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited July 27, 2001).]
When you say that in OD it doesn't do anything at all, do you mean just sitting still in the OD position? If so the input sprag is in backwards or is shot.
[This message has been edited by transfixleo (edited July 27, 2001).]
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Car: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Engine: 4G63T
Transmission: 5 speed
Ok, well, that was my attempt, now I get a new one. this was a pre-84 anyways, I want a 4l60.
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I know the school of hard knocks is a tough one to graduate from but you might want to try it again, this time with a good manual and some advise. Also, these trannies do have there problems or else us tranny guys would be out of business. Don't kick yourself too hard. Every tranny guy has put a sprag in backwards at least once in their career. I know some guys who've made a habit of it!
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Car: 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Engine: 4G63T
Transmission: 5 speed
well, the thing worked great for about two weeks except for it'd never go into overdrive, other than that it worked great, might've shifted a little sloppy, but still, I think it had to be somewhere in the valve body...
#7
My first automatic rebuild was a 700R4, it was in and out of the car at least four times before it was perfect. My second rebuild (for a different car)went in once, stayed in and is still going strong. You'll learn if you keep trying.
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