View Poll Results: What would you do?
Get 305 heads (port the snot out of em), higher stall TC now, and save some $ for a paint job and new fender



8
26.67%
Just get some really good heads, wait on TC and prolong paint job even longer



22
73.33%
Voters: 30. You may not vote on this poll
Help Me Choose, What would you do?? Heads, TC, Paintjob...
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Help Me Choose, What would you do?? Heads, TC, Paintjob...
I'm faced with a dilemma here, that I could use some help with. I have a chance to get some 305 heads for free, only cost of shipping. And would port the heck out of them. And would probably raise my compression a whole pt.
Now, should I go this route and suffer a little less performance or buy some better heads?
If I get the 305 heads, I can buy a higher stall TC now most likely. And I'll be able to have some money set aside for a cheap paint job (including a new driver side fender
).
So, what would you do? Get 305 heads and higher stall TC, and save a little for a new paint job
or get some better heads, and wait for the TC, and prolong the paint job longer?
I'm really thinkin of option A right now.
oh yeah, I have horrible 76cc heads right now.
Now, should I go this route and suffer a little less performance or buy some better heads?
If I get the 305 heads, I can buy a higher stall TC now most likely. And I'll be able to have some money set aside for a cheap paint job (including a new driver side fender
). So, what would you do? Get 305 heads and higher stall TC, and save a little for a new paint job
or get some better heads, and wait for the TC, and prolong the paint job longer?
I'm really thinkin of option A right now.
oh yeah, I have horrible 76cc heads right now.
Last edited by Mark A Shields; Sep 29, 2002 at 04:13 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 1
From: Panama City Beach,Florida
Car: 1989 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Pro-built 700R4
Mark,
I would not even waste my time to change out the heads and put on 305 heads. A little bit of compresion is the only thing you might gain from swithing to the 305 heads,but they suffer from there small ports. I say just save your money and get some Trick Flow 23 degree heads and put on your motor.
I would not even waste my time to change out the heads and put on 305 heads. A little bit of compresion is the only thing you might gain from swithing to the 305 heads,but they suffer from there small ports. I say just save your money and get some Trick Flow 23 degree heads and put on your motor.
Putting 305 heads on will cost you a bit of time & shipping will cost a bit with the weight wouldn't it? not to mention you will have to port &p so I'd not go with that option, but that just my opinion!
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by JACKO
Putting 305 heads on will cost you a bit of time & shipping will cost a bit with the weight wouldn't it? not to mention you will have to port &p so I'd not go with that option, but that just my opinion!
Putting 305 heads on will cost you a bit of time & shipping will cost a bit with the weight wouldn't it? not to mention you will have to port &p so I'd not go with that option, but that just my opinion!
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Anderson, IN
Car: 86 Cutlass
Engine: 350
Transmission: 200-4R
Go for a good set of heads. Remember, the power is in the heads, so don't skimp there. Even if you get a set of cheap heads and do porting etc, by the time you get done with everything you'll have spent more money than you thought, and almost enough to get a decent set of aftermarkets.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by 1991tealRSt-topGuy
eh, TC should be the LAST thing on the list, because it depends on your entire powertrain setup................
eh, TC should be the LAST thing on the list, because it depends on your entire powertrain setup................
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buy the best heads u can afford then buy the TC. that way when u get the TC u will feel the diffrence more and it will make u feel better and it will all seem worth it. and ur paint is nice so work on that last.
Last edited by bigbrianiroc-z; Sep 29, 2002 at 08:02 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by bigbrianiroc-z
buy the best heads u can afford then buy the TC. that way when u get the TC u will feel the diffrence more and it will make u feel better and it will all seem worth it. and ur paint is nice so work on that last.
buy the best heads u can afford then buy the TC. that way when u get the TC u will feel the diffrence more and it will make u feel better and it will all seem worth it. and ur paint is nice so work on that last.
Guess you haven't seen this. though it looks pretty good in this pic, i 'll get a worse one.
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
The fender is no excuse - do not waste your time with a head swap and $hitty heads. No brainer.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 5,144
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From: CC, TX
Car: 1999 Yamaha Banshee
Engine: 379cc twin cyl 2-stroke stroker
Transmission: 6 spd manual
Axle/Gears: 14/41 tooth
looks llike another one of those ****ty third gens on the street. i would get a fender and just have it primered. then get some bad *** heads then the TC then paint
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by brodyscamaro
looks llike another one of those ****ty third gens on the street. i would get a fender and just have it primered. then get some bad *** heads then the TC then paint
looks llike another one of those ****ty third gens on the street. i would get a fender and just have it primered. then get some bad *** heads then the TC then paint
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
sure is easy to say.."hey, just buy some Trickflow's"...not all of us can afford that luxury.....
RBL and Sittingbull have made some great suggestions in previous posts...seems you are beating this head dilema to death....the 305 heads CAN be made to flow well....How much HP you want? That is the question you need to answer...then buy the heads that will give you what you want...as for the fender, Most junkyards have what you need...real cheap!
Come on Mark ...make a decision here!!
RBL and Sittingbull have made some great suggestions in previous posts...seems you are beating this head dilema to death....the 305 heads CAN be made to flow well....How much HP you want? That is the question you need to answer...then buy the heads that will give you what you want...as for the fender, Most junkyards have what you need...real cheap!
Come on Mark ...make a decision here!!
Ok Mark just curious: coz prices in USA are so differant to OZ for car parts
what will 305 heads cost + shipping + porting?
Whats a guard & paint cost?
Whats a real good set of heads gunna set ya back?
what will 305 heads cost + shipping + porting?
Whats a guard & paint cost?
Whats a real good set of heads gunna set ya back?
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,760
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From: Newark, DE
Car: 86' Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-56
have you gone to the Junkyard to look for a fender? I know around here i could probably find one thats pretty straight, and it might even be painted red already. you might also want to check with people parting out there cars, and see if any of them are red. Buying a used fender thats already painted will save you a whole lot of dough, and you can put that towards some good heads...
just a thought
Eric
just a thought
Eric
Thread Starter
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From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by 89Irocz23
id save up for some decents heads then do the tc then the paint and fender. If your gonna spend the money and time on heads you mys well do it right the first time.
id save up for some decents heads then do the tc then the paint and fender. If your gonna spend the money and time on heads you mys well do it right the first time.
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Supreme Member

Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 7,164
Likes: 1
From: Someone owes me 10,000 posts
Car: 99 Formula
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 342
Originally posted by Riley's35089rs+
How much HP you want? That is the question you need to answer...then buy the heads that will give you what you want...as for the fender, Most junkyards have what you need...real cheap!
Come on Mark ...make a decision here!!
How much HP you want? That is the question you need to answer...then buy the heads that will give you what you want...as for the fender, Most junkyards have what you need...real cheap!
Come on Mark ...make a decision here!!
Well
You need more than a fender there..Your door looks like it needs some trim also. So For now get a good fender on there. If you primer the fender remember this, it will need sanded again and primed. Why dirt grease and all that over period of time.. Save for the best heads that are going to fit your needs, for your cars future.
Mark, buy another set of heads, so that way next summer at the meeting we're planning we can race against each other and see who comes out on top...
I am planning my 350 swap around 305 heads... same cam as Mark, headers, Holley... ect...
I am planning my 350 swap around 305 heads... same cam as Mark, headers, Holley... ect...
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,078
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From: San Antonio, TX
Car: Damn
Engine: This
Transmission: New Stuff
Do yourself a favor and don't go cheap on the converter either. Wait untill you can afford a nice one.
I'd deffinately go with a good set of heads first.
I'd deffinately go with a good set of heads first.
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,333
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From: Texas
Car: 1991 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 with Eaton posi
hang on a sec....Mark..do you have a 305? From what I understand (and I'll tell you the page and paragraph where I read it), 350 heads won't work on a 305.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,162
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From: California
Car: Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
this is really a personal decision.
whatever bothers you more, fix first. If the first thing that pops into your mind about your car is "that *!@#$%^ DENT!" then fix the body. on the other and if the first thing is "it's !@#$%^ SLOW!" then do some power mods.
and as for heads and torque converters and whatnot. Yup - good heads cost bucks. Since you are already carb anyways, maybe a vortec setup would work for you...the carb vortec intakes are available relatively cheap (edelbrock performer RPM air gap, and i say relatively compared to say a TPI vortec intake) and your cam doesn't have outrageous lift, so you could get by with probably less than $600 into a set of vortec heads ready to bolt on + a bit more for the new intake (and you can sell your weiand intake to recoup a bit of the loss..) from what i've seen the "budget" aluminum heads don't have many fans (such as trick flow etc.) so in my mind and personal opinion, it's either go budget with vortec or go all out with AFR.
and with your cam's fairly long duration / narrow lobe seperation angle, your motor would be very happy with a higher stall torque converter.
so...options in my opinion are
(1) fix body
(2) vortec setup
(3) new high quality small diameter torque converter with around 2600-2800 stall
Do #1 if the body bugs you, do #2 if you don't think you'll ever want to afford AFR's, and do #3 if you think you want to save up for AFRs at some point in the future.
whatever bothers you more, fix first. If the first thing that pops into your mind about your car is "that *!@#$%^ DENT!" then fix the body. on the other and if the first thing is "it's !@#$%^ SLOW!" then do some power mods.
and as for heads and torque converters and whatnot. Yup - good heads cost bucks. Since you are already carb anyways, maybe a vortec setup would work for you...the carb vortec intakes are available relatively cheap (edelbrock performer RPM air gap, and i say relatively compared to say a TPI vortec intake) and your cam doesn't have outrageous lift, so you could get by with probably less than $600 into a set of vortec heads ready to bolt on + a bit more for the new intake (and you can sell your weiand intake to recoup a bit of the loss..) from what i've seen the "budget" aluminum heads don't have many fans (such as trick flow etc.) so in my mind and personal opinion, it's either go budget with vortec or go all out with AFR.
and with your cam's fairly long duration / narrow lobe seperation angle, your motor would be very happy with a higher stall torque converter.
so...options in my opinion are
(1) fix body
(2) vortec setup
(3) new high quality small diameter torque converter with around 2600-2800 stall
Do #1 if the body bugs you, do #2 if you don't think you'll ever want to afford AFR's, and do #3 if you think you want to save up for AFRs at some point in the future.
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Mark A good Paintless Dent Repair technician can repair that fender without paint.
As long as the paint is not gouged through or cracked
you would be amazed at what they can do.
Find a Dent Wizard or Ding King (Phone book) and go show him the car.
They will tell you wether thay can fix it or not. And $$$
From the pic I'd bet they can. they'll have good access to work on it after removeing the inner fender.
Do not try to pop it out yourself before talking to a PDR tech.
As long as the paint is not gouged through or cracked
you would be amazed at what they can do.
Find a Dent Wizard or Ding King (Phone book) and go show him the car.
They will tell you wether thay can fix it or not. And $$$
From the pic I'd bet they can. they'll have good access to work on it after removeing the inner fender.
Do not try to pop it out yourself before talking to a PDR tech.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Oct 3, 2002 at 01:02 AM.
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