Hey Guys!! Need help with Fuel Pump.
#1
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Hey Guys!! Need help with Fuel Pump.
Anyone here ever pulled a fuel pump by cutting a hole in the back floor?? I know it can be done I just need some pointers.
Like how do I keep from bending the hell out of the metel lines comming out of the tank??
Anyone got any good links to some tech articles??? I used google but came up empty.
Thanks,
Like how do I keep from bending the hell out of the metel lines comming out of the tank??
Anyone got any good links to some tech articles??? I used google but came up empty.
Thanks,
#3
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Yeah. I came to the same conclusion. And I spent 2 hours siphoning the damn FULL tank.
Anyway now I'm having trouble with the panhard bar bolts. I took the nuts off but the damn bolt won't come out!! It's about to **** me off! Tonight I'll put the body up on jackstands and let the axle hang loose. That might take tension off the bushings.
Later.
Anyway now I'm having trouble with the panhard bar bolts. I took the nuts off but the damn bolt won't come out!! It's about to **** me off! Tonight I'll put the body up on jackstands and let the axle hang loose. That might take tension off the bushings.
Later.
#4
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Here's what John Keating Chevy did to mine before I bought it. http://92b4crs.tripod.com/newpics.html
#6
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Hey Val, don't butcher your car. Honestly, it will take the same (if not less) time to drop the rearend, and do it right.
It's not neccessarily a "must" to drain the gas tank. Just as long as you have 1/2 tank or under, you'll be ok. An easier way would have been to disconnect the fuel line (at the tank), and it would have drained by itself. You will need to disconnect EVERYTHING except for the LCA's * torque arm, then let the rear axle hang as low as possible.
Use a hammer and punch to get those stubborn bolts out. A acrewdriver will work too.
Well good luck, and if you need anything else, just e-mail me for the quickest response.
It's not neccessarily a "must" to drain the gas tank. Just as long as you have 1/2 tank or under, you'll be ok. An easier way would have been to disconnect the fuel line (at the tank), and it would have drained by itself. You will need to disconnect EVERYTHING except for the LCA's * torque arm, then let the rear axle hang as low as possible.
Use a hammer and punch to get those stubborn bolts out. A acrewdriver will work too.
Well good luck, and if you need anything else, just e-mail me for the quickest response.
#7
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Car: 90 RS
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Here is a pic of mine when I did the hole. Email if you need help, writing a tech article as we speak because a lot of people seam to ask this question, I know I did. FYI, I prefer this way however I have never tried dropping the tank.
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#8
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Originally posted by 92RSB4C
Here's what John Keating Chevy did to mine before I bought it. http://92b4crs.tripod.com/newpics.html
Here's what John Keating Chevy did to mine before I bought it. http://92b4crs.tripod.com/newpics.html
I've worked at dealerships for a few years, and they would have killed us if we tried anything like that. Probably would have gotten fired.
#9
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Car: 92 Z, 91 Formula, 04 CTS, 01 Tahoe
Engine: 355 forged 4 bolt, SuperRam, 58mm t
Transmission: T5, looking for t-56
Originally posted by 92RSB4C
Here's what John Keating Chevy did to mine before I bought it. http://92b4crs.tripod.com/newpics.html
Here's what John Keating Chevy did to mine before I bought it. http://92b4crs.tripod.com/newpics.html
#10
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Well I don't want hose clamps on a FP line that will be holding 50psi constantly. I think it would hold up, but it would be a constant worry for me.
So I'm turning this into a HUGE project. I'm taking ALL suspension parts off my car. Front and Rear. Everything except for the engine and tranny. Scrubbing the car down with degreaser and buying a gallon of POR15 and Dynamat Undercoating. Rebuilding the suspension with entergy bushings, Hotckins Springs, KYB shocks/struts, and possibly getting 3.70 gears for the old aussy rear.
Anyone ever use the front A-arm energy bushings?? Are they something I could live with, or are they rough as hell??
So I'm turning this into a HUGE project. I'm taking ALL suspension parts off my car. Front and Rear. Everything except for the engine and tranny. Scrubbing the car down with degreaser and buying a gallon of POR15 and Dynamat Undercoating. Rebuilding the suspension with entergy bushings, Hotckins Springs, KYB shocks/struts, and possibly getting 3.70 gears for the old aussy rear.
Anyone ever use the front A-arm energy bushings?? Are they something I could live with, or are they rough as hell??
#11
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Dammmmmm!! That's a lot of work!! hehe
It will look like a whole new car after you're done, though. Take some pics, and post them along the way. I'd like to see!
The poly ES bushings are great. No ill effects at all. It's a pain in the d!ck to install them, though. Make sure to pick up a butane torch, if you don't already have one.
Good luck! and let us know how it goes!
It will look like a whole new car after you're done, though. Take some pics, and post them along the way. I'd like to see!
The poly ES bushings are great. No ill effects at all. It's a pain in the d!ck to install them, though. Make sure to pick up a butane torch, if you don't already have one.
Good luck! and let us know how it goes!
#12
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I have the front A-arm energy bushings on my car and they have been great.
One trick to getting them in is to put the bushings in the freezer and heat the control arm. About 4 good wacks with the big hammer and they were in.
One trick to getting them in is to put the bushings in the freezer and heat the control arm. About 4 good wacks with the big hammer and they were in.
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