hey guys i just did a tb coolant bypass on my 87 bird 2.8 it took me about 20 min but i was taking my time. i deffinitly recomend it to all you guys who havent done it. just take the 2 rubber hoses that go inot the bottom of the tb and pull them out. and connect them. thats all. it gains you a couple hp. makes your throtle a little more crisp and makes the air going into your tb not so hot.

 

Congrats on the mod!

 

do i have to take anything apart to do this mod? or just take the hoses and join them,>?
if so how did you join them?

 

the only thing i took off was the hose going from my air box to my tb. that made it easier to get to. there are a couple ways to do the mod. basically you have to join the 2 hoses together. what i did was get a piece of hose and run it up and over and back down my air hose going to my tb.

 

do you have a digital camera.? if so can you take a pic of it, if not i'll have to try and figure it out

 

Heres what I did...

Took a hose and wraped it over the air intake tube...

You can use one of the existing hoses but it'll crimp, and i had this hose laying around and it doesn't crimp... only like .80 cents a foot anywayz...

 

Clean your plugswires Stuart ! LoL . They last longer when they dont have greece and oil caked on em .

 

I heard this isn't a good thing to do for when you live where it can get cold. (I live in PA...) But I'm thinking this would be a good thing to do for the summer! What're your thoughts on this? Could I easily reverse it and hook it back up for winter? Thanks.

Mark

 

it only takes like 5 minutes to do... Easy as Pie!

Wayne, thats the trick, if i can break these POS wires, then i have an excuse to buy the MSD 8.5 Super Conductors I want

 

Yes, its very easy to do. I bought a hose and hoseclamps from autozone, and the hose is long enough and has a formed 180 deg bend in it. part # was like 3109 or some crap. Will look tonight. Takes like 10-15 min to do. Pull the intake tube and belt off, and then take hose clamps off, and pull hose off. Slip new hose(s) on, clamp back down, put belt on, put intake on, Presto, done.

 

curious as to why you took the belt off ??? ???

 

antifreeze wont get on it .

 

Thats how I did mine. Congrats on the mod.

 

I used a piece of 1/2" heater hose, but just bent it over, it crimped, no big deal to me. I plan to eventually remove all that tubing from the intake manifold, to eliminate the little TB coolant pipes completely, and just run straight heater hose back to the heater core.

And WW, I live in NJ, which isn't quite as cold as PA can get, it still gets cold. My TB has been bypassed since '96, no problems with freezing.

 

I removed the hoses cause I couldnt get the pliers and screw drivers on the fasteners w/o removing it. Its not like it takes more then 30 secs to pull it off.

 

easist thing to do is get a flush n fill kit for about 2 bucks and just use one of the T connectors to hook the two hoses together. which will also aid in doing a flush job the next time. They work great, the package has two of them.

 

its a good mod. cuttin the airbox is good to. and the egr crap, all it does is slo u down,but it cols u down to.if u want,u can just bypass it and when u get on it,it wont kick in the xhaust gas and slow u down

 

You may want to think about this mod. I was going to do it but we do have a cooler climate. If you do it, make it so you can hook it back up for the winter, if you don't you may expierence alot of freeze up.

 

Here's what you need for a clean finish and function:

Earls fittings #709110 (10A.N. 90* hose barb), #981610 (1/2" to 10A.N. adapter), 1 foot of 5/8" hose & 2 clamps.

1) Disconnect the two coolant hoses to the TB.
2)Take off the coolant barb plate from the underneath side of the throtle body with the appropriate torx socket.
3)Disconnect the metal heater feed pipe from the intake manifold, heater solinoid, and alt. bracket and cut it in half just behind the belt tensioner, then reinstall the side to the heater solinoid and bracket screw.
4) install the earls adapter and hose barb fittings angling the 90* hose barb in the same direction that the original metal heater feed hose ran.
5) attach 5/8" hose cut to appropriate length to the hose barb and the original remaining heater feed line with hose clamps.
6) start car and check coolant level in case of any loss.


This procedure will eliminate the two coolant feed lines to the throttle body altogether eliminating the lope around the intake associated with the standard TB bypass. Making it easier to remove the intake and breather hose when working on the car in the future, + it look alot cleaner!

 

Where did you get them fittings at. I was wanting to get rid of all that crap in the first place. I just didnt have it at a location where I had time to play with that crap. I just bought a 3029 s 63034 hose from autozone and clamped it on.

 

On Redraif's car we took the whole plate off the bottom of the TB, eliminating the hose barbs. Looks much nicer, and its easy. You do have to remove the TB to do it though.

 

Yea, I took that plate off, but im talking the steel hose that goes from where you put the bypass hose to all that valving on the right fender.

 

wtf are you talking about ??? are you talking about how the article says to "Ram air though the tB ??? If so, thats a waste of time bro, just don't do it!

 

You can order the parts through Summit or Earl's. Call around some performance shops near you, they may stock some Earl's fitting on hand.

The "valving on the right fender" you are speaking of is the heater solinoid. On these cars we require this solinoid to open and close the hot coolant flow into the heater core. Without this valve, the heater would be pretty much on all the time and the airconditioning would not be able to cool properly so don't remove it. If you bypass it altogether, you will no longer have a heater either.

Also, the reason for removing only the first half of the metal heater feed line is because you need atleast the screw mount on the second half of the metal line that connects to the alt. bracket to help support the the heater solinoid on the inner fender area (keeping it in its stock location). Without the mount screw, the solinoid will flop around. This is why I did not remove the entire metal heater feed line from the intake to the solinoid.

 

I don't want to put down anybody but if anybody thinks this gains you hp your nuts. :lala:

The only reason thats there is so that the butterfly doesn't freeze up in the winter time up north. Bypassing it doesn't help air temp any because as soon as the air pass thru the intake to the valves it passes by the water jackets that feed back up to the thermosat housing from the heads in the "intake manifold" thus making the air temp the same as what you guys are trying to prevent. LOL

Sorry guys but if you want to help hp, lower the temp of the whole engine water.

I know I'm going to take some heat for saying the truth but better here then to have my fellow Camaro guys laughed at by the rice boys.

 

So the valving is for the heater, got it, dont F^%^ with it. But the dip $^%% before me broke that fitting and just patched it with rtv, I dont like that, and to take all that off looks like I have to remove half the front of the engine to replace it with stock. So I was wanting to cut it off and use some aftermarket crap, and repace it. Only way I saw to do that is to use flex hose all the way over their.

 

I knew this "mod"(laugh) was B.S. going into it. I performed the steps I listed above to free up some useless plumbing to make things easier to work on as well as a cleaner look. I like simplicity when it comes to the look of a motor, computer and smog sh*t drives me nuts so the more stuff I can ace the better.

 

(yawn) 86-below f-bodies (v8/v6) didn't come with the heater control valve. If you eliminate that prone-to-cracking POS, you'll clean up the engine bay, and your air conditioning will still work. Hot coolant has constantly flowed though my heater core since the day I got the car, no problems. Sure, a/c might work a little better with the valve in, but I doubt you'll see a world of difference.

(yawn) The truth, eh? Well I'm up north, we have cold winter days that sometimes drop negative, and I've never, EVER, had my butterfly freeze up! Funny how all the guys in hot climates say that the butterfly can freeze- it's news to me. And how the heck would a butterfly freeze on a hot-running motor? Even if the motor was cold, after a couple seconds of running, it's attached to the motor, it'll warm up and melt.

Secondly, ya know what? You say that the water jackets warm the air by the valves. What about the 600+ degree engine heating up the intake manifold?? I'd bet that warms the air up, too.

You say to lower the coolant temperature; no kidding! But a lowered coolant temp with a TB bypass might cool that incoming air a bit more.

I haven't seen a rice boy laugh at my TB bypass mod yet. Go post this to the V8 TPI owners, they do the same thing. Nobody's saying this is the "1,000 HP mod", hell, nobody's even saying it's a "2 HP mod"! You either do it or you don't. If I ever met anyone that said "I have a TB bypass and it made my car so much faster", I'd flat out laugh at them...

You guys seem to think that we're (and the V8 guys) are pushing the !TB mod as the ultimate. It's not. It's a free mod. You can't get much for free, and nobody said anything to the contrary. It's a mod that might help, might not, so why not do it?

Hell, basically, just think of it as eliminating useless sht from the engine compartment. It's one more thing than can break (just like a plastic heater control valve or a fuel pump's pulsator) that can be eliminated without any adverse affects to the engine.

Go look for TB bypass on the Tech forum, and see how many V8 guys use it. Oh and like I said, some of the 4th gen v6's don't even have TB cooling lines! Do their TB's freeze up?

 

O.K. Here we go again wiseass,

1st off, I was repliying to Dale who happens to own a '91 that does have a heater solinoid/valve.

Secondly, You don't know sh*t from experience about removing this flow solinoid when you live in hotter climates like So. Calif where we rely on our A/C units to function properly. I guess you are trying to tell us that GM engineers were bored one day and decided to throw in this valve even though it doesn't have hardly any function-What an *** I am to suggest to someone to leave it in the car. May the GM tech manual you quote from will tell you what an *** I can be?

I must pose a threat to you in some way,you reply as if you alway need to be the top dog around here?

 

I did my TB bypass back in summer 98.

hey tom you remember that freak snow/ice storm that hit the hampton roads/va Beach area in 98 or 99? My T/B was fine.