After about a year of not feeling good, I am now working on the camaro again.

Jerry

 

One more picture.

Jerry

 

WOW!!......im in love....do u have more pics of your car?

 

You could stop the car by looking at the brake pedal...heh

Glad you're feeling better. Details would be very much appreciated. (Edit: Details about the brakes, not trying to pry into yer private life.)

Peace,

Ken

 

The Hubs are new forged aluminun Wilwoods for a 82-92 Camaro. The rotor back plates are from a 55-57 Chevy kit. The rotors 12.190 inch dia. and the calipers are billet NDLs that has 50 percent thicker pads like what I used on the rear inboard of most of my sprint cars. The caliper mounts are billet aluminun machined by me. The caliper mount sitting on the spindle in the photo is for the other side.


Jerry

 

Outstanding brakes. What would the dollar figure run?

 

Looks very nice!! Glad to hear you are doing better.

Jason

 

Nice!

 

Wow that looks sweet!

 

Thanks for the details. I did not know Wilwood made hubs like that. Wonder if I could build that minus backing plates for under $1500...

Thanks again!

Ken

 

The parts I used was $1,100 thats for everything less the caliper mounting bracket. The bad thing is all the parts are in the $699 kits for differant cars. But the dicks at Wilwood said we can't mix parts from kit to kit and we don't have a part number for a kit. If you will order 25 kits. We will make a part number for the 82-92 camaro with the big rotors and the price will be about $699. So for now it's one part at a time and pay the price for each part $1,100.

Jerry

P.S. Wilwood told me nobody mods 82-92 Camaro anymore so why make a part number for it and that was standing in Wilwoods lobby I think most of Wilwood R & D time is used to suck up to Jeff Gordon.

 

Glad to see you on here again Jerry.

As for Wilwood ... "nobody mods 82-92 Camaro anymore" ... then what is everyone on this site (and many others like it) doing? I think you are right.

 

...or someone organizes a purchase, the lower figure would be doable? I think we could find the necessary number of folks on here. For $1100+brackets it would be a "save for a couple of months" proposition. For $699 it COULD be a "Honey, this month it's dinner at McDonald's since I need to 'fix' the car" proposition

What do fabbed brackets like your aluminum works o` art usually cost, if I may ask? Just trying to figure if such a project is within my reach. Lastly, have you any idea if the calipers would clear stock 16" cast wheels in this configuration? Sorry for the list there...

Kits aside, Wilwood needs to hit the web and look at what we do on here, CZ28.com, etc.

Thanks for the info!

Ken

 

Building an order of 25 is fine, but maybe they need an email flood too. How much work is it to establish a part number and gen a list of parts required for such a kit? They've got to be kidding... or they're just as foolish as most companies seem to be when it comes to satisfying customer desires.

 

Thats a beautiful setup, Id deffinately be in on a purchase group.

 

I guess you guys dont want to wait for my dad's kit, then? It's looking like it'll be $700-800 installed. R&D on my car is still going strong, and the second prototype will go on my dad's car soon. But it'll be a while, its your decision.

Nice parts Jerry! I'm glad you're feeling better. Stay healthy ok? You're too good of a guy to not be around here.

 

I am third in line, ... along with the rear setup he's done on his car.

 

Jerry,
What's the specs on those rotors as far thickness and diameter? They look like they might be "drag race only". I'm curious if the hubs and rotors could work on a 1LE set-up.

The 3rd gens get dissed again. I've talked with Wilwood in the past via e-mail and they only offer a drag race set-up for our cars. Nothing that is "road race" recommended or even for daily street use. Meanwhile the 4th gen guys get the road race brakes.

I suppose Wilwood's reasoning is the same as why Hotchkis won't make tubular front A-arms for our cars. They feel they won't sell enough units to justify the R&D costs, therefore making the units too expensive.

 

Hi Bret

The drag kit has .810 X 10.5 rotors and the pads are under 1/2 inch thick.

The Baer Serious Street kit has .810 X 12.0 rotors and the pads are under 1/2 inch thick.

My setup has .810 X 12.2 rotors and the pads are over 5/8 inch thick.

This will work for my car the big thing for me is weight and the Wilwood setup i have (calipers, pads, rotors and hubs) is 36lbs, My 2 1LE rotors only was over 52lbs.

Wilwood has 1.375 X 13.2 rotor (Baer track is 1.100 X 13.0) that will bolt on to this hub but if you needed that big of a rotor then the Global west front hubs are the ones to use.


Jerry

 

This is a picture of my old 1LE rotors that started at 52lbs after some work hit the scales at 38lbs.

Jerry

 

Thanks Jerry!

 

Care to share the specs of the brake kit? What all is being used for calipers and rotors, etc?

-Matt

 

If you did a search on this forum, you'd find these pics I posted earlier:

http://para.noid.org/~thresher/image...s&dispsize=800

 

First of all, I didn't know you had previously posted pictures. Second, a search with a key word brakes and your user name doesn't turn up your previous thread so I'm sorry if it was too much to ask of you.

I would still be curious to know what calipers you are using and their benefit over the '89-'92 1LE PBR calipers. They looks like LS1 calipers, but I'm not sure. Also, are you using the standard 1LE spindle adaptor brakets or are yours custom like Jerry's.

-Matt

 

I will also be opting for Don's kit when it's available, he's already converted my rear drums to the 1LE rear disk set-up.

 

What'd the rear changeover cost you?

-Matt

 

No need to get defensive, I wasnt being hostile. Here is the thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=151062

The benefit is these calipers are cheaper and easier to find than thirdgen 1LE calipers. The adapter brackets are custom by Dyno Don.

 

What would it take to get you to offer those museum-quality caliper mounting brackets to other members of this board? :hail:

 

Uh....excuse me what's a Museum-Quality mounting brkt?

 

I think its something like this:

 

Bret:

Looks great how long before the install.

Jerry

 

What he said.

Peace,

K

 

Dear Don,

I think Bret has the right idea. Anyway, "museum-quality" is intended to denote a part of exceptional quality and beauty. More importantly, it is intended to flatter Jerry (just like the prior sentence) into making a few more of those parts (although I must admit that it isn't working yet). Comprende?

Hey, you know what? Since that approach isn't working, let's try another!

Hey, Jerry, I think there is a big market out there for that museum-quality part. I'll bet you could make a fortune! But first, we need to test market the part. Put me down for a set and I'll let you know.... Okay, Jerry.... Jerry....?

 

First, Jerry would have to be willing to market that setup. I don't know if he wants to do that, nor can you assume he does. He might be too busy to do so. He'll let us know if he is. Second, realize that is a drag racing setup. Third, as he stated it was very costly to get all the parts. It could end up the same ($$$$) if he decides to "build" this set. Plus there are many legal issues to be resolved with selling brake modifications, as someone else has found out. Just an FYI.

 

Still TBD. I have all parts in hand except for the bearings, seals, calipers, pads and new steel braided lines.

I may also rebuild the front end since I'll be pulling the spindles. I have my bump steer kit so I just need a new center link, idler arm and inner tie rods.

I'll keep you posted.

 

Jerry, I want to pick your brain. I am looking at all options on a Wilwood front brake setup to match (or balance) the Wilwood rear "kit" I have decided on.

1st off- with your racing experience with part fatigue, do you think the Wilwood aluminum front hubs you are running will hold up and be safe over time for hard and heavy street/light track use? Or would you recommend staying with steel?

Secondly- your above quote, you have mentionedGo to the Global west hubs for roadracing brakes. I have just check their website and don't see any listing for aftermarket Global West hubs for an F-body. Only Wilwood hubs are mentioned. Do you know off hand if they make a stronger hub that will bolt onto our spindles?- I am more concerned with safety of the hub than weight of the hub.

I am possibly looking to run 12.72"x1.25" (8x7.00" bolt pat.) rotors using the same hub and adaptor setup you have.

I respect you opinion- any advice would be great,

Thank you, Dean

 

The Wilwood rear kit is not a good choice for a daily driver. The kit has a fixed caliper and on a C-clip rear you have to much axle end play and that makes it hard to keep the pads on the rotor. The right way is is to install C-clip eliminators for no axle movement and then you have no room for Wilwoods parking brake backing plate.

No way the Wilwood hub will work on a road race car. The first cast Wilwood hubs broke on drag cars and now that Wilwood makes a forged hub I think it will last with my little 205/60-16 front tires and manual steering, But still noway on a road racer.

Global west has hubs for G-body cars and that is the same bearing size and offset like our cars. The hubs are Billit 7075 and have been used on 200 mph open road cars and lots of road race cars. Wilwood has ordered them from Global west in the past for road race cars.



If you use Wilwoods 12.72"x 1.25" rotor ( $150 ea ) and a aluminum Wilwood hat ($125 ea ) with Global wests hubs ( $500 plus a pair ) you will have over $1,000 in to a set of hubs and rotors that is about 21 pounds each.

The LS1 rotor is 12"x 1.25 and a stock hub cut down to fit it is 26 pounds and you can do this for less than $200 a set.

Jerry