put in new calipers, master cylinder, ES poly control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods, adjustment sleeves and a 2.25 steering box.

I left my spindle/strut assembled and was able to remove the ball joint nut. used a pickle fork to seperate the control arm from the spindle, leave the nut on the end of ball joint so the control arm doesn't hit the floor.

 

next, i tied my spring to the subframe and lowered the control arm all the way down. i pried the spring out with a bar (this is the part where the rope comes in lol)

 

i used a 'loaner' ball joint press from murray's discount auto which worked decent, just takes a lot of effort. i was able to remove both ball joints and install one but the second ball joint kept going in crooked so i ended up taking the control arm and ball joint to work where i used a hydraulic press, it took 22,000lbs of pressure to get it in!

 

i also used the press to press the inner sleeves out of the old bushings. i then used a jig saw to cut through the bushings to the outside sleeve which makes it easy to pry the bushing out with a screw driver. to remove the outside sleeve, i used a hack saw to cut through the sleeve on the inside of the two 'ears' of the control arm and then used a chisel and mallet to pound the remains of the sleeves out. i used the ball joint press to press the new bushings in, i put a socket between the two 'ears' of the control arm so they dont bend in

removing old inner sleeve:

 

pressing new bushing:

 

i used a die grinder to cut a half coil off each front spring and then heated the end and flatened it so it fits the spring isolator better. reassembly: (sorry no pics, i was in a rush) the control arms went back in sorta tight so i used a floor jack to persuade them. to get the springs back in i first taped the isolators onto the top of them and then compressed them with a loaner spring compressor (inner type), i used about a 4" spacer to keep the top of the spring compressor from sticking out too far. i stuck the bottom of the spring into the control arm and the top close to where it should fit, jacked up the arm a bit and then pried the top of the spring into place. the end of the bottom coil has to go between the two small drain holes on the inside of the control arm, it has to cover the first and not cover the second(see pic). then just jack the control arm the rest of the way up and put the nut on the ball joint after it goes through the spindle.

 

oh yeah, doing the steering stuff is pretty much unbolt, bolt back up. i made the new tie rod assemblies the same length as the ones i removed so my alignment isn't way off. to remove the steering gear, loosen the two hydraulic lines, unbolt the pitman arm at the center link (easy) or at the steering gear (hard), pull back the plastic cover over the column shaft and loosen the clamp at the base of the splined shaft that comes out of the gear, the shaft is keyed so there's only one way to reattach the column to the gear. from the inside of the fender, remove the three bolts holding the gear to the subframe, to get to them you have to loosen a fender support. make sure you torque everything down right. the control arm bolts should be torqued only after the car is back on the ground.

 

I know this is an old message, but I just wanted to bump it to the top and say Thanks!!! The pics of installing the new bushing are great!

 

On my 82, the smaller of the two control arm bushings had one end flared after it was installed. Did you flare the newly installed bushing? If so, how did you do it?

 

If I recall correctly one end of the sleeves was factory flared so you couldn't press it too far.