Just wondering what is involved in removing a door? My pass side door was replaced by the previous owner and has rust/rot around the hinges. My plan is to remove the door and the rust then weld in new metal in its place.

I'm thinking that the 3 bolts that connect each hinge to the body simple have 3 nuts behind the dash area holding it all together? Is it as simple as this?

Also, I'm guessing that the doors must be double skinned or reinforced where the hinges bolt onto them as my door is still attached?

Thanks for the help

Robert

 

Basically, that's the deal. If you have anything electrical in the door, though, you'll have to pull the panel, disengage the wires, and pull them through. If you're working by yourself, I'd recommend getting a bumper jack from the junkyard to hold the back end of the door during removal and installation. Makes thing a whole lot easier.

 

Thanks for the reply. I have electric windows and door locks so the panel will have to come off. I'll remove the panel on Sunday/Monday to see what it's like from the inside.


Robert

 

Robert,
What year is your car?? Unless they changed how the doors are mounted throughout the 11 years then those bolt do not have nuts on the opposite side (in the dash area). I recently had my 85 FB completely apart doing bodywork and the bolts on mine oly come off from the outside (the holes are threaded so that nuts are not required). Except for 2 of the 3 on the bottom hinge that go from the inside out (still no nuts). There may be a way with some tools that I didn't have available but I had to have the fenders off to reach the bolt heads! It didn't matter to me because I was taking the car apart anyway but if you are only dealing with the doors, this would be a pain! Check it out to make sure on your particular car.

 

Eddie,

Thanks for the info. My car is an 87. I havent started on the doors yet so I'll presume that they are attached as you say, without nuts. I'll hopefully have time to remove the inside panel tomorrow and from there asses what needs to be done and whether or not I need to remove the door to do it.

Also, I'm interested to see what exactly the hinges are attached to of the door. Time will tell.

Robert

 

Robert,
Glad I could help. Sounds like you have a bit of work ahead of ya! I know the feeling, I just finished what you're about to do. I didn't want to spring for new doors so I cut out the rotten stuff and welded in new metal. The worse of the two doors sounds like what you are describing, rust near the hinges. Lots of fun!

Here is a little tip so that you can benefit from my dumb mistakes: put the electric window in the position you want it BEFORE you take the door off (I found it easiest 2/3 down so it wouldn't get damaged yet it was not near where I was cutting), cuz it ain't movin after that!

Eddie.

 

how did you guys get a wrench into the bolts to take them off? i dont want to take the fenders off...

I HATE HOW TIGHT THE SPACE IS.

 

Not sure if it is possible?? I know I couldn't with the tools I had available.

 

Get a racheting box end wrench for the top hinge and a 1/4 rachet with a deep socket for the bottom bolt that faces out.

 

Incidently, at this moment I haven't gotten round to looking at my door again. I'm planning to get the door panel off this week though to at least get a look at it.

 

how was removing your door. if you did it

 

man has it been long since i messed with the door hinges. so now that i did it, i can honestly say that i have no idea wtf people are talking about when they say the fenders need to be removed to get at the hinge bolts. simply use an open ended wrench for the top and a deep socket or socket w/ an extension for the bottom.

 

I never got round to doing it. I think I can fix my door with it still on. I may be working on it Saturday afternoon/early evening. It's only when I start will I find if I can or can't do it with the door on.