I read a post on the V6 board about using GM top end cleaner (part # 1050002), letting it in through a vacuum hose with the engine at idle, and running the engine after 10 or so minutes. Does this have any credibility? I'd like to try it on my L98, but I'm not sure if it would be a good thing or not.

 

The Top Engine Cleaner is supposed to be effective in cleaning carbon. So is water injection. I've directly injected water to clean chambers on a hot engine with no problems.

 

I need to do this to the lb9. Do you just use a spray bottle?

 

I have a hand valve/reservior setup with a 3/16" supply hose to admit water to various parts of the intake/plenum. The idea isn't to flood the chambers, since you can create a hydraulic condition and unintentionally reorganize some of the crystalline lattice structure of critical metal angine parts without warning. You should admit enough water/fluid to create a mist in the chambers that turns to steam in the combustion process.

Be aware that the steam will slowly dissolve, soften, and loosen carbon deposits. Not all of the carbon will be expelled while you are admitting water. Some may continue to loosen and break loose later. Don't be too surprised if you get some inexplicable misfires and odd occurences some time after you wet down the chambers.

 

wont that be hell on the catalytic converter?

 

If you've got five bucks you can rig up a cheap water injection system that cleans your engine automatically every day.

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_...earth/me3.html

The only problem I see with it is that it injects less water at WOT than at idle. And it introduces a slight vacuum leak into your system.

 

well, if you really wanna decarb, just go get some seafoam

http://www.camarov6.com/cgi-bin/ulti...&f=25&t=003391

this link should help a lil. almost everybody ive heard swears that its absolutely great. do a search on the site for it, im sure more people testify to it. besides, with this setup you dont have to worry about a vacuum leak and all you gotta do is basically do it every oil change, or every other oil change...whichever you prefer

ill be trying seafoam this weekend

 

how many pints do u need? u need to do an oil change right after?

 

I hope that no one from Hopkins, Minnesota is reading this... Silly me, I should know better.

SeaFoam is basically refinery "waste". About 50% light hydrocarbon oil (pale oil), 30% naptha, (charcoal starter fluid/mineral spirits), and 10% isopropyl alcohol, and 10% water. The alcohol mixes with the water, as does the naptha to some extent, and the "murky" appearance of the liquid is due to the emulsion created by the water/oil mixture forced into suspension by those solvents.

It ain't rocket science, dudes. It's barely science at all. And it's surely no secret. Because of the formulation,I'd never even think of putting it in my engine oil, even though the synthetic would tolerate it a bit more than mineral oils.

I'd almost gauranty that the majority of the cleaning is done by the solvents and water. You can buy SeaFoam if you'd like, or you can use the hydrocarbon solvents already available (gasoline or gasohol) and water to accomplish the same thing.

Personally, I don't buy water and alcohol in $6 steel cans.