:hail: :hail:

fixed the in the spare tire area. no before pics, but here are two afterpics:

top view



bottom view



also, I hear that this thing can be very loud My li'l ol amp

 

you may wanna invest in a couple cans of POR 15!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I used some of that when I made my Sub Box. It filled the big gaps between the peices of wood and actually became the mount for one of the speakers when I cut the hole for it just a 1/4 inch too big.

 

That's just what I was thinking, 85SCto89! Project85, the repair looks great, but what did you do about the rust?

 

total rust control: sell the car

for this: stiff wire brush, maybe some naval jelly, and the rustoleium touch.

Although, it is kinda kool seeing my foot from up top looking down thru it

 

Did the naval jelly remove all the rust? I thought I killed the rust on my 1/4 panel... sanded it down, sprayed that cheap rust converter stuff (I think by Marhyde on it, purplish-blue can, black cap) over it... and it came back with a vengence. You've all seen the pictures...

 

Rust pretty much STOPS
when ya cut it our
or use sand blasting/media blasting to remove it from surface, then prep for better days....
You guys back east & such....
It's the environment (constant wet/moisture/humidity) that attackes the "cleaned" surfaces, ya missed, then rust goes back to work.
Best way is to cut the stuff out & replace with healthy metal....
My 1967 RS/SS 350 4-speed Camaro Convertible from a wrecking yard back in Philly then moved out west in 1983?
I have about 1% rust on the body.
WORST PLACE IS
behind the windshield on the metal dash.
Yep, I remove the windshield, metal wheel it down & get back side (somehow..) and reprep.
I need remove the windshield for resealing anyway.
I only hope I don't destroy the windshield upon removal... I find out one day....

 

Try EVAPO RUST from what i hear it works preaty good soak the metal in it and it disolves away

 

After like of wire brushing I am using prep and paint from CC.
It also is great for spraying on fresh welds.

http://www.columbiacoatings.com/1152...5erfrg5467.htm

evpro rust also works great but only as a soak. They do make a wrap for it but its kind of wasteful as it cost so much. Great stuff [water based]. I have a 5 gallon bucket of it [$95]. But I would not spray it on parts as it is re-useable forever.

After soaking parts in evpro I spray them down with CC prep and paint as they will re-rust in mins.

por 15 is just one of many, magnetpaints.com sells chassis saver for a bit lessl. [say it on TNN Trucks] They sent me a sample piece on some sheet metal and I bent that sucker every way, creased it too and that stuff will not come off.

Matt

 

EVAPO RUST


QUESTIONS & ANSWERS



Q) How does it work?

It works through selective chelation.

This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution.
Most chelating agents bind many different metals.
The active ingredient in the rust remover bonds to iron exclusively.
It can remove iron from iron oxide, but is too weak to remove iron from steel because the iron is held much more strongly.


Q) Do parts have to be completely clean before sending them?

No. the rust remover has detergents which penetrate oils and dirt. However, surface contaminants do slow the process.
The soils must be penetrated before it can come in contact with the rust underneath.
Heavy greases, oil and dirt should be removed prior to shipping to avoid extra cleaning charges.


Q) Will it remove bluing and other oxide finishes?

Yes it will remove oxide finishing such as Bluing, Parkerizing, and Browning.
Anodizing is not an oxide finish and will not be removed.
Powder coating and paint will not be removed as long as the paints do not contain oxides.


Q) Can you clean other metals such as brass, copper and aluminum?

It is a rust remover, not a "cleaner".
However, it will not harm brass, copper, aluminum, plastic, rubber, vinyl,
wood, fiberglass, glass, cork, seals, or paint still adhered to the surface.
We do not recommend use with cadmium coated steel.


Q) I found some black film on some parts after having the rust removed?

The black is carbon from the steel.
Generally high carbon steel is used in making items that are flexible (e.g. springs, saw blades, etc.).
High carbon steel and tool alloy steel items, when de-rusted, will have a darker appearance.
Much of the carbon can be removed simply by wiping with a cloth when rinsing with water.


Q) Is there any surface not compatible with the rust remover?

The rust remover is not recommended for use with Cadmium.

 

i didnt know that

 

my dad did my car all with fenders rivets and tar for all the holes. yu should see what he did to my brothers accord he used the same method for making the intire outer wheel well on both sides. andi thought my dad was just an old grease monkey

 

my dad did my car all with fenders rivets and tar for all the holes. yu should see what he did to my brothers accord he used the same method for making the intire outer wheel well on both sides. andi thought my dad was just an old grease monkey and for rust grind it then mix oil and cheep grease in a conrtainer and just slop it on then drive on a dirt road and mae alot of dust too

 

holly double posts batman

I've seen the rivet method before w/eastwoods "no welding" qtr panel repair kits. Also found out that there was a reason for the drain hole in the bottom of the spare tire area just gotta rig it so it wont splash right onto the amp.

 

what is the "rivet method"?

 

yo get the replacement panel. test fit it to area it's going in. Cut out area & leave about a 2" overlap for the new piece to sit on. Get tome vice grips w/an atachment to make a depression on the overlap so basically ti recesses so that the new piece sits on it flush. add some adheisive o help the two parts stick together, drill thru both parts and apply rivet to ole, thus joining them. Add some filler over exposed rivet head & seam, fininsh prepping & paint.

 

Project 85--I got that same spot to fix on my '84. I didn't know there was a hole there until I took out the spare. Only thing keeping it together is the ground effects piece underneath. I'm gonna pop-rivet a piece of steel in there and coat w/ POR15. I know its only temporary- a few years at best but I can't rip the whole thing apart now.

 

There's a really nasty industrial chemical that's phosphorous based I believe. I can't remember what it's called, or if you can by it retail, but is does a sweet job. You just get rid of the major loose rust flakes, then apply this stuff to the remaining rust. It reacts with the rust to form a protectant seal (like anodizing with aluminum almost) preventing further rust. I believe it's paintable.

 

yeah, you can buy that stuff, I think. My dad bought some for his 55 chevy. it had some rust problems in the trunk, but all he had to do was take off the big chunks and pour that stuff on and it was all gone in like 30 minutes. Man it did a sweet job.

 

what I do after workin in a body shop is cut out to where the rust ain't so bad the jelly it(what's left) clean it with persay carb or brake cleaner (whatever ya got) THEN wire wheel or grind it till it's CLEAN no pits or anything (even if the metel is down to a 1/16th thick, then take your new metal thin the mounts off so they're flush seal it with either a sealer or (joe's backyard body shopin j/b weld) compound then finaly either weld or rivit it in place. trust me where my pass. lock and handle were is now a spigetti sauce can and my driver's handle replacement is chambells soup.

 

Wow, that looks like it is pretty rusty. Anyways, my Camaro had the same thing going on with the wheelwell, and you could see the spare tire through what was supposed to be a wheelwell. I put some of the fiberglass on it it and shazaam, painted it with flat black Krylon, and it looks perfectly normal. And the fiberglass kit is only like $15 at Autozone. Good times.

 

and what I said is the same amount of cash if not less, BUT a harder spot so it won't crack over time.