Hey guys I have just recently bought a 68 camaro 350 engine. I dunno the exact cam/motor specs which brings up a few questions I have to ask you guys (which I will ask a lil later on)...Also I want this thread to help out others that want to put and older SBC motor in there TPI car. Because of the confusing questions that come up while doin this swap. So I hope to finally put a rest to all of those questions like can I run a roller set up in my 86 and older block. Now this is my first time doing something of this magnitude so I'm gunna need all of your guys help!

So heres whats up;

I blew up my 83,XXX mile 305 on thursday of last week so into the garage it went to get its new power plant. Started rippin everthing out to get ready to pull the motor. I havent run into any snags or anything yet, just snapped a very unimportant bolt. (bolt that holds the A/C bracket support down by the exhaust manifold) heres the progess on the motor so far



PROBLEMS WITH SDPC VORTEC TPI INTAKE TO MAKE NOTE OF

Problem #1 Durin the test fitment of the SDPC intake the oil pressure unit on the back of the block hit the intake. Solution: Just ground away some material to make it fit.

Problem #2 Theres a coulpe of coolant holes that for some reason are drilled and tapped into the intake. Solution: grabbed a couple plugs and stuffed them in there. One hole is located right up front where the 2 coolant sensors are located right by the fuel rail hold down mount. Then the other was back by the distributer. Easy fix just put plugs in and away I went.

Problem #3 When installin the runners, the drivers side runners got caught up by the fuel rail, and the intake bolts holdin the intake to the heads. Solution: Losen up the fuel rail bolts and slip the runners in.

Problem #4 EGR stuff. I blocked off my EGR with TPiS block off plates (which are VERY nice billet peices for $12 each) but the block off plate for the valve didnt fit very well. Solution: Gorund away a little bit of material to let the plate fit in just right. The plate fit but it didnt allow the bolt holes to line up very well. Nothin a lil grindin cant take car of. I think if u got the EGR kit from SDPC you would be ok.

Problem #5 More EGR stuff. On this intake they include the EGR feed for the corvettes. So u have to buy the block off plate for that as well. Solution: $12 from TPiS for the block off plate. But like said earlier SDPC sells the EGR kit so u'll be ok.

other than those problems this intake is slick and eveything is perfectly drilled and tapped to O.E.M. specs.

 

So on tuesday I found a guy close to me that want to sell this camaro motor for $200. Claims it ran very very good when removed. Well I'm takin a stab in the dark and hopin he's right but heres the motor when it came home!

 

I cleaned up the pistons alittle bit with some carb spray. They were not built up with carbon all that bad. I was actuually suprised. Heres my first question. I think that he said that the motor had ross pistions in here, But I dunno if they are or not, they look to be aluminum, but heres the part number(L3022F) if someone would look these up to tell me if these are indeed ross pistons, also if this helps 40 is stamped in the flat part between the valve cuttings.

heres the pic of the piston

 

I did alot yesterday. I sent the 350 heads off to Murgic Automotive to have my heads rebuilt. Nothing outragous but just so I know the heads are good before I bolt them on...I also got the motor painted with some chevy orange spray bomb. Boy she looks good after all that. I also bought a new water pump for $25. My old one had a mounting spot busted on the passeger side of it. It was still good but I just wanted a new one again so I know its going to be ok. Here she is with the new paint, HWat a difference!! I'm getting excited now!!

 

So what are some of your guys comments so far? I'm kinda at a stand still without the heads...If you guys want part numbers let me know i'll go out and get em.

 

Not to rain on your parade or anything, but you do realize that the dip stick is located on the wrong side on your new to you engine. You will have clearance issues. You may want to pull the oil pan and check "EVERYTHING" inside. You may be able to modify the pan by welding a new dip stick tube and adding a support since it will no longer be in the block. Just my .02

 

well I was planning on switching my oil pan from my 305 over to the 350. Cause its brand new GM, only about 2 months old. Dont worry about rainin on my parade man I need to know where things are goin to be wrong, or not going to work. Thank you for the heads up!

 

What are the specs for the cam the guy had in there? May not be ideal for your TPI setup... It's easy/cheap (under $100) to swap in another non-roller cam now while the engine is out, if you wait and find out later it's killing your performance it gets a little harder... If you can't find out from the guy what the specs are I'd play it safe and swap it out, Summit and others sell a line of cams for under $100, one of their mild ones should do nicely and remove all doubt about the cam... The K1103 cam/lifter kit they offer for $79, with 214/224 dur @.050 and .442/.465 life seems like a good choice for a mild 350 TPI to me, decent upgrade from the stock 350 TPI cam without going overboard, ask around for more opinions though...

You're using your old 305 heads on the 350 I take it, or did I just miss that you removed the heads the 350 came with?

 

Looks like fun I dont think you will be able to swap your 305 pan over though cause the older blocks were 2 piese main seal and you 305 is 1.

Also if your using the 305 heads it might choke the 350 down some. If you have some extra cash maybe you should look into getting some 350 heads.

 

Those are some key issues that were pointed out... The blocks are different as far as the pan and dipstick go and who knows what cam is in there....

But in order for us to really help you we need to know more info - like what your long term plans are for the engine/car, what does the rest of the drivetrain consist of, and what kind of budget you are on. The advice will be drastically different depending on those factors - from me at least .

 

Ok guys to answer some questions...but first the update. Today I pulled the upper plenum off and found what looks to be shreads of aluminum, possibly from a pistion busting apart... so I kinda know why the motor failed lol.

Ok Just checked the dipstick location and it is on the drivers side. So knowin I cannot swap pans kinda irritates me cause its brand new. But I think I might do the mod that ur saying, my dad can weld up that no problem..But I would actually prefer to keep it on the drivers side. So are there headers out there that make headers for the stick to clear on the drivers side?

I have no clue what the cam specs are. The guy said its not O.E.M. but its a little bit bigger than the stock one. Now I wanted to swap out the cam anyway for a ZZ4, but I know I cant cause its not a roller block. SO I think that the cam u said might be ideal but I want something more along the lines of the LT1 but just a little bit bigger. I'm goin to wait for the cam till I get my heads back, get my headers figured out and what will work best with my ported intake and plenum. Are there kits to install roller cams into non roller blocks?

The heads were removed from the 350 block before I bought it but still came with the motor. So no I'm not usin the heads from the 305. The heads are 78cc which I think is way to much. but I plan on getting TPiS's head gasket that raises compression up a .5 point. They say its like milling the head .010

The long term plans for this motor is to have a decently powerful motor that will respond well to daily driving in the summer months (never to see winter). Also I plan on the Stealth ram this winter or early summer. I will not be racin the car at all but do want the power when I need it.

The drivetrain is a 700R4 with stock drive shaft (might upgrade to an aluminum one though) and stock rear end w/ 2.73's. I know changes will needed to be made back here but I want to know what the motor is goin to do first so I can make adjustments accordingly.

The budget is really what it takes to do it right. I will buy new if I have to but I really am just rebuilding /using stock parts with some possible bolt on goodies. (MSD 6AL, Headers, K&N's)


I hope all of this info helped out and please dont not hesitate to point out something that isnt going to work right/ well with this combitnation.

 

I'm might be ditching the stock heads for vortec heads. I have a buddy who is a machinist, who will take my lower plenum and drill the holes to match the angle of bolts for the heads and also add the 2 bolt holes on each side that the vortec is lacking. He has done this for a couple of his race cars, which have had no problems running stock intakes...I didnt get a chance to do anything to the car today so maybe tomorrow.

 

Ok.... A stock TPI lower won't work with the Vortec heads unless you weld extra material onto the base as the ports are too tall - as well as the stuff you mentioned about the bolt hole locations.

You really should identify a dollar amount that you don't want to go over or just say the heck with it and spend spend spend if you want to do it right and have everything work together. A head upgrade is a very good idea but it will cost you to match them to the Stealth Ram properly and then the cam will need to match the head/intake package.... And so will the exhaust, and so on.

Yes they make retrofit lifters for running roller cams in non-roller blocks but they are quite expensive. You will need the retro lifters, a reinforced timing cover, cam button, and the proper timing set for using a thrust bearing setup to run the roller cam. Again, this is an area where if you are going to spend the money it will pay dividends - but not as much if you are just going to be building a mild 350. You can make decent power with a flat tappet and save a lot of money for other things if money is tight.

The dipstick thing may be a problem with the headers.... If the headers will work with it on the driver's side then let it buck.... No big deal really. Otherwise I know I have seen older blocks like yours with a hunk of metal bolted or welded onto the block on the passenger side down by the oil pan rail to facilitate drilling the hole through to run a passenger side dipstick. Then they just plug the driver's side hole. Probably not something you can do at home or anything though.

Gears will be a must from the sounds of the long term project.

 

OK I guess for what its worth, I will just stick with the stock heads then. I dont like the idea of 78cc heads but does it really matter? I will however replace the cam. Are the ports on the stealth ram bigger than the ports on regular heads? Are there heads out there for the stealth ram or ones that work better with the stealth ram?

I guess the overall budget is keep it under $1500

So far I have invested $550 includin the price of the enigine.

 

Not sure on the Stealth Ram port size but I would guess that they come with a lot of room to port them out... Maybe others with the StR can provide some info here. But you generally will match the intake port size to what the head port is cast/ported to - not the other way around. What I mean by matching things is that it all starts with the heads. If the heads don't flow it really doesn't matter how well the intake and exhaust system flows. So if the heads can flow well you will want to use the cam and intake to compliment the head flow to get the best results from a given engine.... Well, in general anyways .

Sounds like your budget is pretty tight so sticking with the stock heads might be all you can swing. At least set them up with the proper springs for the cam you choose but I wouldn't waste a lot of money on them. You should probably start saving now to get a new set of heads to compliment the Stealth Ram when you can afford it. So a mild cam around 220* duration @ .050" and in the high .400s for lift will be about all the stock heads can handle.

There are other down sides to running big chamber heads like the larger quench area but the main thing you are going to run into is the low compression ratio with those four valve relief pistons. Even with a small head gasket you will be lucky to get 9.5:1 out of it.

I think some people have had very good results from using those small chamber 305 heads after having them cut for larger valves and doing some porting.... You might want to do a search on that here....

So I think you will have to make some compromises with this setup and start putting money away now for another build up that will really make some power. For now just try to buy/upgrade things that will work with another engine setup later on - like roller rockers, headers, intake, etc. And try to keep the end goal in mind.

 

Yea I'm deffinatly goin to do another build up, but that wont be for a bit...I am thinking of the end goal which is why I want to get the little important things done now like cam/headers/ignition etc. but the big investments will be the second build up which will consist of HSR/Heads/Injectors/custom prom/tranny hop up/new gears. The motor WILL NOT BE DROPPED IN W/O HEADERS. I'm goin to start searching for some 3/4 prim. headers, Gotta find one that includes the y-pipe. But thats all for now

 

Ok I'm goin vortec hands down...I just traded an extra TPI setup I had layin around waitin to be ported for the heads. They are the 906 castings which I think are the better of the 2 castings. I will buy the vortec intake from scoggin dickey, even though it is spendy I will be happy that I did it! So I guess that I canno run a stealth ram anymore huh? Oh well I think I will be happy where I'm at.

Question...I have stock 19# injectors, does bumping up PSI bump up the #'s that the injectors put out? Cause I am just goin to use the stock injectors with a home made AFPR!...Insight please

 

3022F sounds like a TRW p/n.
Your oil pan has to have the correct gasket. There are 3 different ones. A 1pc which you probably don't have. And a pre-76' or 76' up. I think 76 IIRC. The front seal is a different thickness. A thin will look to fit in a thick 76 up pan but will leak. I don't remember the deminsion of the pan, you'll have to verify them. But more than likely, it's a pre 76' If you have dip stick clearance issues, see if a "Lokar" stick kit will work. Streetrodders use'em for looks, but they are flexible so the exact mounting direction can be varied.
I just read that the 906 casting was used on HD trucks too. They might have an exh seat insert. Not a big deal, just that the insert should be blended for a performane app. You might want to put a LT4 spring kit on to start with. Save headaches down the road. You can also use proform 1.5/1.6 guided roller rockers if desired. $160 or so. http://www.TommyJohnsonjr.com

 

I kind of doubt that you will be able to make it drive nice and perform well at WOT with just fuel pressure changes. But to answer the question, increasing the fuel rail pressure makes the injectors flow more than what they are rated at and vice versa. But cranking the pressure way up is not good for the fuel pump.

If you are doing a cam and the better intake stuff, along with headers/exhaust, you really should look at doing a little PROM work. At least go with the ARAP. PM me if you want to set something up on that - I'm in Shoreview.

 

Who's TRW?? and matt u have a PM

 

They make pistons among other things. Been making them for 20+ years.
A good generic high performance piston.

 

oh ok...Well hopefully they are a good piston. Well the heads are getting painted tomorrow. Thats all I have for now

 

The "F" at the end of the part # leads me to believe that they are forged.

 

Oh, And i am running an old block with my TPI setup, and have never had any of the problems you are worried about. I am running a hyd flat tappet cam also.

 

Powerlover...could you post some info on your motor combo? Like cam spec/heads etc.

 

See my Sig.

My chip was burned by a guy here locally to work with my cam.

I am in the process of rebuilding mine now. Will probably have it running again tomorrow.

If you have any other questions just ask.

 

Ok well heres the master plan...


TPiS cam .494 I/E 112 sep.
New cam bearings
Valve sprngs to handle the lift
Crane High intensity lifters
SDPC Vortec TPI intake
SLP 1 3/4" headers Y-Pipe
MSD 6AL Ignition
MAT relocation kit
Cold start injector bypass
ACCEL 24 Lb injectors
AFPR
K&Ns
Custom burnt prom

Thats all for now...what do you guys think?

 

sounds good, but if you're interested in saving a few bucks its common to find a good set of SVO injectors on ebay that would work just as good if not better than the accel. And i think i remember seeing a couple threads about people having trouble getting prom's burned with accel injectors, might wanna do a search.

 

Yea...I heard that to but I think that they are rated 2 lbs higher than they actually are rated...ex= 24lbs =26lbs. plus I got the injectors for 100 bux I couldnt pass it up.

 

I have accell's, they work great. I would not bother with the MAT relocation kit, you really don't need it(waste!!) Other than that, it sound's like you are on the rite track, Good luck.

 

91wt---What pound injectors are u running? Did u have a PROM burnt to work with them?? The MAT relocation kit is 35 bux so its not to spendy, and every little bit helps...Unless u have some good info to sway my decsion, I'm open cause I really dont want to waste money I just want things to work well together.

 

Looks good... skip the MAT relocation kit though - on MAF systems the MAT will not effect performance as it is only there to function as part of the EGR diagnostic system check.

What will be the duration on that cam? What rocker ratio are you going to run?

The cold start injector bypass is another thing you can skip. You can just disconnect it and it will operate as if it isn't there. It is not controlled by the ECM and the ECM will not know the difference if it is there or not (DTC wise). Unless of course you want it out of there for looks or it is leaking....

Should work quite well with a slightly tweaked ARAP-based PROM .

 

TPiS Torque Secrets Flat Tappet Hydraulic Cam #700-135
cam specs= duration- 280/280
duration @ .050- 224/224
lift- .495/.495
lobe sep- 112

OK Well I will skip the relocation kit then! I hope to have the cam/lifters/springs ordered next week!

I also researched the pistons and they are in fact TRW and they are a stock replacement forged piston.

 

My injector's are 24lb, and I did not get a chip burned for them yet because I am redoing the motor in a couple of week's(dont want to pay twice for the tuning). The injectors run alright with the stock prom, not good, not great, just alright! It run's alittle rough at idle, and it is running really rich. You can really smell the unburned fuel when you get on the gas!!

 

How many cc's are the valve reliefs on those pistons? If they're only like 5 cc's your going to have to much static compression with the 62 cc vortec's.

 

Good point gmgod.

I bet those are more like a good -8cc or so though.... If they are like the TRW flattops I used in my 355 (look about the same from here) they would be rated at 9.7:1 with a 64cc chamber and standard .039" head gasket assuming a stock deck height (somewhere around .020" I say). That works out to about -8cc.

That being said, if the block is decked and with the Vortec's 62cc chamber you would be at 10.2:1.... Not too bad, but maybe a little high for an iron head (IMO) but you can run a slightly thicker head gasket to help with that. A .041 head gasket would get you very close to 10:1 which would be manageable considering the head design. We can always back a little timing off in the PROM if it knocks too.

What is your deck height? Do you want it to run on 87 octane or is a straight diet of 92 or higher OK with you?

 

I already bought and installed the TPiS thin head gasket is .029. I will run nothing less than 92-93 octane. Thats all I have ever run in my car so that is not a problem. I know that high compression just does not work with 87 oc. 'm talkin with all the techs at work and they all say that I will have high compresssion but 92 oc. will be just fine. And some of the mechs said that I would be lossin compression cause of the 4 valve releifs. As for the cc's I have no idea. They are not much bu the part number for the pistons are L3022F.

 

Got the injectors today! plus an AFPR and some K&N's. Plus an extra dual snorkel setup..woo hoo all these parts are used BTW. I ohm tested all injectors and they are all are 14.3-14.6 ohms so they should be good!

I have found that my budget is goin to be more like $2500+. with all that I want to do/need it will fly by $1500 so $2500 should get the job done...

What sensors are interchangeable? I think they all are, but please inform me of the ones that need to be used to work on a decent 350...I think that this motor is goin to scream!! Its no longer the mild 350 build up, its turning pretty beefy now...

Do you guys think 300 HP is a good guess that this will make. I want a torque motor now that I have been thinking some things over...Cause stock TPI is great for torque, plus vortec heads also have a **** load of torque potential. The cam should yeild great HP/TQ I want 400 LBs of torque. do u think I will be able to see this with this combo?

what are ur guesses?

 

Hey everyone. Well, I have gotten alot done on the motor. I went out to TPiS on friday and bought the cam/lifters/springs/seals. I installed the cam the same day as well as the lifters. I have a buddy who is an engine builder who will install my springs for me. I'm sure I could do it but I would rather have him do it. Then today I pulled the 305 out of the camaro. I also took the heads off the 305 and found that a corner of the piston broke apart but the cyclinder walls are still good. so I will be seeing the parts off this motor if anyone would like them. As of right now in order to drop the350 in he car I need a flywheel. I'm looking for a light weight flywheel, Any suggestions? I dont want to spend outragous bux but am willing to pay.


Matt do u think that burning the PROM will be a big deal with all of these modifications?

 

Hey man, dont use the 305 heads on the 350, your gonna choke it to death. also for the dip stick, spend the money for a lokar one, they are bendable so you can bend it to fit whatever set up you like.

 

I think you skipped a couple of posts...I never once thought about reusing those 305 heads. there was some debate on my part on weather to use the heads that came with the 350 I bought or vortec 350 heads. Well I decided to run Vortec heads and I am now waiting on the SDPC vortec intake.

As for a update---

I have done a ton and found out some problems to. I pulled the 305 out of the car w/ the tranny. It came out pretty smoothly. While pulling the motor I forgot to unbolt some ground wires on the back of the passenge head. No big deal...I didnt break anything but I did find that a tan or orange wire was cut. What does that wire belong to and would it cause the motor to run like crap? That was the first problem I found The seond came when I was installin the valve springs. Yes I did them myself..lol but it seriously was so easy. I bought this tool from snap-on that is waaayy better than that wine cork removin tool used to remove springs. So I recommend if u ever want to remove ur valve springs buy this tool from snap on...only 20 bux to...anyway I put the air hose into the spark plug hole to fill the cyclinder wth air to keep the valves from fallng into the cyclinder. Well on the #2 cyclinder air was just blowin by the exhaust valve. IS THERE AYWAY TO CORRECT THIS W/O REMOVING THE HEAD?? But other than that the spings went in real smoothly. Oh I had to remove those dampers inside the springs to allow them to fit. I have the SDPC Vortec on its way so that should be here by the end of the week. Then all I have to do is get the right flexplate and I can get it back together and get her runnin hopefully soon.

MATT!! I'm wondering if your still up for burning my prom in the near future? If you need I can list all modifactions/parts here to help you out.

Also I found that I cannot use the CSI so I need a drivers side runner if anyone has one they want to donate? I need one ASAP!

SHES GETTIN CLOSER!!

 

Sorry guys I havent been updatin this post lately. I got the motor in and it has been ***** to the walls gettin the motor built up as far as I can get it. As of right now the motor is pretty much built up to turn key ready. I'm waiting on the headers to arrive. I decided not to go with SLP's 1 3/4" headers I couldnt justify spendin about $650 for the headers to turn around and dent them so they would fit. So I oredered the hooker 2055's. I dont like the Idea of the A.I.R. tubes but it came with a y-pipe and flows the best out of all other shortie headers out right now. I'll just chop off the A.I.R. tubes a weld them shut. So those should be hear sometime within the next week.

I should let everyone know who is thinkin of doin the Vortec swap to read these problems that I encountered.

Problem #1 Durin the test fitment of the SDPC intake the oil pressure unit on the back of the block hit the intake. Solution: Just ground away some material to make it fit.

Problem #2 Theres a coulpe of coolant holes that for some reason are drilled and tapped into the intake. Solution: grabbed a couple plugs and stuffed them in there. One hole is located right up front where the 2 coolant sensors are located right by the fuel rail hold down mount. Then the other was back by the distributer. Easy fix just put plugs in and away I went.

Problem #3 When installin the runners, the drivers side runners got caught up by the fuel rail, and the intake bolts holdin the intake to the heads. Solution: Losen up the fuel rail bolts and slip the runners in.

Problem #4 EGR stuff. I blocked off my EGR with TPiS block off plates (which are VERY nice billet peices for $12 each) but the block off plate for the valve didnt fit very well. Solution: Gorund away a little bit of material to let the plate fit in just right. The plate fit but it didnt allow the bolt holes to line up very well. Nothin a lil grindin cant take car of. I think if u got the EGR kit from SDPC you would be ok.

Problem #5 More EGR stuff. On this intake they include the EGR feed for the corvettes. So u have to buy the block off plate for that as well. Solution: $12 from TPiS for the block off plate. But like said earlier SDPC sells the EGR kit so u'll be ok.

other than those problems this intake is slick and eveything is perfectly drilled and tapped to O.E.M. specs.

Not to many other problems that I have run into lately, I just have been bustin *** getting this thing built so that hopefully it can be fired up while it is still somewhat warm out.

Come on guys chime in and tell me what u think and if u have any questions I'll be happy to help!!

I should have some pics by Wednesday

 

Oh and the CSI problem it looked like it would all work. Everything is routed the same as the stock peice so I just went ahead an installed the CSI

 

Nice to see you are makind some progress!

I can help you out with a PROM when you are ready. You will want to buy a flash PROM for the memcal though as they are much easier to use than the standard EPROMs.... Well that and I don't have a UV-light anyways and can't erase the old style chips . I can take your existing memcal and modify it with one of those chips or I still have one of the memcals I used with my car when it was MAF that has an EEPROM on it and would be ready to go for your setup and then you could keep your stock one for a backup (always a good idea to have a backup just in case).

Shoot me an Email and we can figure something out for a price on the memcal if you want it. Tuning is free but also comes with no gaurantees and only when/if I have time (have to disclaimerize it, not trying to be mean).

My guess is a slightly tweaked ARAP .bin will work well with your setup. And enabling highway mode will help out your mileage.

 

Thanks for the reply matt Yea I will get in contact with u ASAP. I understand the whole time and guarantee thing. I'm plannin on just test firing the motor on my stock chip, is this a good Idea? I guess as for a time this motor will be ready is prolly 2 weeks max. As of right now I'm waiting on the headers to get here then its free sailing from there. Just a couple brackets here and there and VROOM WROOM. what times work for you through out the week? I usually work till 7 pm M-F and have the weekends off. heres some pics that I snapped today

 

Shoot me an Email. I don't want to waste their server space on personal stuff .

 

still waiting on the headers

 

Just wondering... his sig says 1986 Iroc, that's the 2 piece rear main seal, not the one. That started in 1987, so why couldn't he have used his new oil pan (besides the dip stick)?

 

Good question!! But there is the real big problem of the dipstick location on the pan. Wouldn't have worked anyway but other than that I think that u are right! Oh and thanks for reminding me I have to order a dipstick! I'm just goin to go lokar. Yea and I'm still waiting on the headers...Has anyone ever have to wait almost 3 weeks for their headers to come from thunder racing?

Jason

 

OK I got my headers on wednesday this last week. I removed all the smog pipes from them and welded them shut. I also sprayed them with some high temp paint. Then it was smooth sailing after that getting everything back together and turn key ready. The headers are a really nice slip in fit but are impossible to do spark plugs on. Oh well but Friday night I had everything ready to go and tried spinnin it over and she didnt even attempt to come alive. All it did was spin over and back fire, never once fired when it was suppose to. So I have checked and rechecked and check again the timing and its right. I've tried moving the distrib. back a tooth and forward a tooth. still nothing. I even switch plug wires 180* to see what it would do and still did nothing. I'm so irritated right now cause I have basiclly tried everything.

It has spark on all 8 cyclinders, its getting fuel cause there was a puddle under each header. It seems to be timed right but it never wants to try and fire so timing has to be off but everything lines up right. I'm at a complete loss on this motor right now so help would be greatly appericated

Jason