hey i bought a driveshaft out of a 99 camaro with the 3.42 gear option it seams shorter than my stock one.. i measured its lenght at 41 inches from end to end without the yoke included does that seem right? i have the yoke too i just didn't measure it. they say it is only supposed to fit in 98-02 ls1 with that specific gear ratio rear ends and i have found on here that noone has had a problem. so i bought it and now i am just checking to see if i can use it..

 

Gear ratio doesn't matter. All driveshafts from 1982-2002 with the 700R-4/4L60/4L60-E/5-speed manual are supposed to be the same length.

 

I run a driveshaft out of a 2000 LS1 car in my '89 700R4 RS. No problems whatsoever. It cured the high speed vibrations too!

 

The more I read stories like this, the more I lust after an LS1 driveshaft

 

Found mine on E-bay for $150. It was out of a 99' WS6, it cured some of the vibration I was having at higher speed/RPM.

 

MMM... maybe I should try one sometime. I have a nasty vibe at 130 mph+ with my steel driveshaft. Never happens at any speed lower than that no matter what the rpm.

Isn't the LS1 driveshafts suppose to be even lighter than the 1LEs?

 

Not sure about the weight between the LS1 and 1LE dirveshafts, but the LS1 does have a vibration damper at the front yoke whereas the 1LE does not. LS1 also appears to have bigger yokes than the 1LE shaft. With that in mind, I would think the LS1 might be a little heavier.

 

I found the answer if the website can be trusted.

16 lbs - Stock steel LT1 driveshaft
12.2 lbs - 3rd gen aluminum 1LE driveshaft
12 lbs - LPE aluminum driveshaft
11.5 lbs - Stock aluminum LS1 driveshaft
10 lbs - RK Sport aluminum 1pc driveshaft


http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/fbody/weights.htm

kind of neat with weight break ups on everything

 

So a LS1 driveshaft would be a nice upgrade since it has more vibration dampering stuff and is still lighter.

 

I stand corrected...

 

4 lbs-Carbon fiber driveshaft (ACPT)

 

Yes, the CF is light and its going to lighten your wallet by about $750. I bought a 1LE Aluminum dr shaft for $110 and it works great on a STREET car.

 

Its already in my car.

 

Well good for you, and your 2.8....

 

See, the problem here is you have no clue as to way I run a 60*V6 motor- all you want to do is sound like the bigshot because "you have a bigger motor" (Mods Why do I get all the asswipes attracted to me?- the you put me on probation for defending myself- here we go agin, I probably get banned for this)

I run a light driveshaft because-

1) I reduces my rotation mass. I don't put out big HP and never will, but when I am done it will put down 250HP. Motor build is half way done Everything is custom and lightweight for cornering. Perfect for street fun- I have a 540hp race Vette.

2) It reduces unsprung weight for handling- did you think about that one? I have every advantage there is to make this the BEST handle full weight (meaning full interior) street 3rdgen there is.

3) I didn't come off as a wise *** and post the dollar amount, tech wise I added to the already list of different driveshaft weights

So whats your B.F. problem? I do have a 2.8 that will smoke you on a road track- feel like the bigshot now? Get back to the subject of driveshafts.

 

If the LS1 driveshaft weighs less than the 1LE, then why? The LS1 shaft has a dampner when the 1LE doesn't, the yolks are bigger than the 1LE, the LS1 has a bigger diameter than the 1LE. All these things would point to the 1LE being lighter, so what actually does make the LS1 .2 lighter than the 1LE?

 

2.8 when was the last time you had any real seat time in race conditions on a track? Have you ever successfully autocrossed your 2.8 or mega hp vette?
I use to AutoX at irvine meadows in the early 90's ran Street Modified after I got kicked for beating the local hero in his ESP
Mustang with my camaro

 

AGood2.8
If you note, I said STREET car for the Aluminum Dr Shaft and the price was for a comparsion. How I see why you on Probation, too uptight & defensive.:lala: :lala:

 

So a LS1 aluminum driveshaft will just slide right in. No mods. Right.

 

Just remove your stock steel one ( four fasteners at the end yoke)and install your choice of a Aluminum dr shaft (they all fit). Don't worry if you lose a little fluid from the tranny end (normal).

 

25THRSS brings up a good point. That's why I stated if the website could be trusted. Someone weigh your 1LE shaft and the LS1 shaft and tell us the results.

I thought about a CF shaft but I'm the kind of person where if something can happen even if it's a 1/10000 chance it will. I figured I would probably drop the u-joint and splinter out the CF shaft and waste all my money.

 

could be the process of making the metal and the yokes. Im sure technology has changed since 88 with advancements in improving strenth of aluminum so now maybe they dont need to be as thick, and they can improve on the strength of the metal?? Just and idea, not saying im right. someone would have to weight a LS1 shaft.. If i can find an LS1 DS, Ill weigh them compared to my friends DS out of an third gen.

 

Oh I'll add while I was searching on google. I found a tech recall on some of the driveshafts. I think it was the 93 to 96 years. There would be some vibration issues with the aluminum driveshaft and the factory would replace them with a 3rd gen steel or 1LE 3rd gen driveshaft.

Just thought you guys might want to know incase you're looking at driveshafts on ebay. I wouldn't want to spend 150 bucks just to get a crappy aluminum driveshaft that has more vibe than my stock steel one.

 

I also heard that the foam stuff inside the DS starts to disinagrate and will make a pinging noise at high speeds like there is rocks or something trapped in there, but its very small i hear.

 

Just because it's bigger diameter doesn't mean it's heavier. Remember that the inside of the DS is hollow. A thinner wall but bigger diameter will make it as strong/stronger but it will weigh less.